JG54 Me109G-2

[Skuzzy]

That isn't right. Flat paints should have a spread out glare but you have to make the power map darker to achieve this.

In general I have the specular map a bit lighter than the power or environment maps for matt or satin aircraft paint. On a scale of 0-256 where 0 is black the shades of grey I use are roughly 20-30 for the power and environment and 50-60 for the specular.

That's what I get for asking Waffle.  It did not sound right to me either.  Thank you Greebo.

[Vraciu]

Power maps are inverted. 

My metal is dark and my paint is light on the Power map.

 

Are you telling me the opposite, G?

[Vraciu]

That's what I get for asking Waffle.  It did not sound right to me either.  Thank you Greebo.

I think you are still right. 

Paint is light.  Metal is dark.  On the Power map. 

[Devil 505]

I think you are still right. 

Paint is light.  Metal is dark.  On the Power map.

I use dark for paint and very dark for metal on the P map.

[Vraciu]

I use dark for paint and very dark for metal on the P map.

Same here. Metal is almost black.  Paint is dark dark gray.   Relatively speaking paint is lighter. 

I have noticed that in some ways black and white behave the same.  It's almost as if they meet.

[Skuzzy]

I love confusion.  It just brings out the best of things that make you shake your head and ponder, while all the while wondering who might be having a good laugh at your expense. 

[Larry]

Alright so for the specular map I use lightish darkish and for the power make I make it darkish lightish. Got it!   

[Skuzzy]

I bet you figure it out.

Personally, I am going with Greebo on this one.

[Vraciu]

I bet you figure it out.

Personally, I am going with Greebo on this one.

Not me. 

I think it’s possible both are correct*, but Devil’s methods work for my skins, metal and painted. 

My metal is black, my paint is light(er).

Alright so for the specular map I use lightish darkish and for the power make I make it darkish lightish. Got it!   

Take your Diffuse, convert it to grayscale, then make a negative image.   Darken that as appropriate.   That’s a good start for the Power map.


—
* I believe pure white and pure black behave the same way on certain skin maps.

[Devil 505]

Take your Diffuse, convert it to grayscale, then make a negative image.   Darken that as appropriate.   That’s a good start for the Power map.

Not a very good method.

For example, smoke stains are dark on the diffuse, and need to be also be dark in the spec maps to get a flat finish.

[Vraciu]

Not a very good method.

For example, smoke stains are dark on the diffuse, and need to be also be dark in the spec maps to get a flat finish.

It’s a starting point.   You have to adjust individual layers from there.    It’s a great method, especially when I want something quick and dirty to replace the default. 

Generally I adjust the layers in grayscale on the SPECULAR BEFORE I do the negative image for the Power map.   You don’t do negative image for the Spec map.  You do it for the POWER map.

And they don’t have to be dark either.  If they’re white it has the same effect.   Try it.   

1) Make your Spec map from a grayscale of the diffuse.

2) Adjust each layer relative to the others (before you darken it).

3) Make a negative for the Power and darken it 15% three times for NMF.  Maybe 20% once for paint like OD.

For a quick look you can skip step two.   Adjust the final relative specularity AFTER you finalize your diffuse.

[Devil 505]

You can't make blanket statements on a procedure - especially when trying to teach it. Also, never teach a short-cut before the proper method. That is a reckless way to go about things.



 

[Vraciu]

You can't make blanket statements on a procedure - especially when trying to teach it. Also, never teach a short-cut before the proper method. That is a reckless way to go about things.

It’s not reckless.

And it works. 

Don’t save time if you don’t want to.  I’ve shown this technique to others and they love it.   Do it the hard way if you prefer.

I’ll say it again.  A darkened negative image of your grayscale diffuse is a great starting point for your Power Map.   Darkened gray scales of the diffuse also work great for the Environment and Spec Maps.   

[Greebo]

I've done a little test to illustrate the effect of the power map. The screenshots below show the same skin viewed at the same angle. The only difference is that the upper screenshot shows the skin with a pure white power map and the lower with a pure black one. As you can see the pure white power map gives a much more focused highlight and the lower black one a lot more spread out.

I do agree with everyone that the power map should be fairly close to black for both paint and NMF surfaces in AH but on my skins the paint is a little darker than the NMF. The only thing I make light on that map are glass and highly reflective gear pistons. The specular map is where I have the biggest contrast between paint and NMF.

[Vraciu]

These are Paint Shop Pro numbers, but you should try this, Larry. 

For NMF Skins:

Specular = Diffuse in Grayscale, Adjust Brightness -15%
Environment = Diffuse in Grayscale, Adjust Brightness -15%, -15% (mathematically this is probably -32% once)
Power = Diffuse in Grayscale, Negative Image, Brightness -15%, -15%, -15%  (mathematically this is probably -52% once)

For painted airplanes use -18% for Specular or so, -20% for Environment, and for Power. . .   I forget now but try a few things ten percent at a time. 

Particularly if you use the Skin Viewer this will give you a good idea what things look like while you're drawing.   Obviously you'll have to make final adjustments based on what the game view looks like.

It's worth a shot.  Others have had luck with this method.   Customize it for your software.