Sadly I believe I have posted all the films from my library..
The only other thought is to go through all the 109 films you can find on youtube.
I know that is not exactly the best thing because there are a number of 109 films that have errors and poor advise, but these have been made by people I am sure mean well. So take some advise with a pinch of salt. Latrobe had some valuable fight breakdowns if I recall correctly.
I always had my guns set between 300 and 350. 300-325 for when I expect mostly nme Fighters and 350 for bomber hunting. Except the 30mm, I had at 150 regardless, I couldn't shoot that damn gun with any accuracy at range.. However, I was never a super capable gunner and favoured closer ranges than many other 109 jocks.
Slow is smooth smooth is fast, even heavy handed manoeuvres must be smooth in order to work. My stick was, when new, very smooth. I didn't need to scale it until it got older and more worn. My Elevator scaling looked like this;
100
D D D D D D
D
D
D
D
50 D
0
From memory. It prevented the initial twitch you often get when leaving the stick's deadzone. I never found myself needing to have scaled Ailerons or Rudder. I dread to think what I would have to do if I took to the sky these days.. it's damn older now
I always flew 109s by feel after years flying from experience. Sometime after I was out of the LCA I grabbed a 109F and just went fighting, forgot score, tried everything and anything to win by saddling the nme. The 109F has inadequate guns and helped those saddling skills.
Merging skills in 109s are pretty important, but merging is entirely dependant on the opponents aircraft performance (speed, climb and turn rate) and how he merges. (It always good practice to have a mental image of every opponents aircraft performance charts in the back of ones mind. Yes that is a lot of information, but its a well kept secret that the best fighter guys that know where their aircraft out performs their opponents and will drag the fight into that window) .
But here is 2 broad/vague examples;
In 109E-G6 chandelle left and adjust the chandelles profile by rolling depending on how vertical your enemy's first move is. The chess game in the on the 1st merge can make or break the 2nd merge. ~Let the opponent make the first move and beat him with your better counter, (what that is is entirely dependant on the enemy and situation).
With the G14-K4 chandelle merge right, counter intuitive but gives the enemy pilot the false assumption he has won the 1st merge due to the sluggish right hand turn these 109's make. On the second merge, merge left in the near vertical if your enemy baits himself. It's a figure 8 method that brings into play the ultra left torque those models of 109 have. Once you have tried this a few times, you will start to recognise how important the 2nd merge actually is to winning a fight.
There is probably a better way to explain, but I R dum with regard to language.
