Trimming your aircraft

[Puma44]

Thanks Pumpa calibration might be part of my issue

Do you keep CT on or just pop it occasionally like Fugi does?

That Skyyr fellow seems to keep it off after a rest at the start of his dueling

I seem to get a better response if it's popped to reset trim as others have noted then try to manual alittle during the fight with the rotor trim but that is just elevator trim..

Rudder trim starts to get wonky quickly and to try to control both elevator trim on the throttle rotor and rudder trim on a hat on the stick while trying to press another button on the throttle to get the overhead view ....

What about "flying the ball" as it relates to rudder position? Anyone try to keep their ball in the middle? 

 

Eagler

It depends on the situation, cruising to the next location, bombing, or dogfighting.

Cruise CT

Bombing CT

Dogfight CT usually off.  I like to trim the pitch axis a little nose down to help with that pesky nose bounce issue, i.e. a nose heavy stick.  Additionally, I try to keep glancing at the ball to make sure it’s centered up and I’m not flying with a heavy boot inadvertently  helping with guns tracking.   

If things aren’t going well after I’ve trimmed several times in different axis, I’ll activate CT and get everything back to near neutral.  And adjust from there.

[Kermit de frog]

Howdy Kermit

Do you trim all three?

Can you trim to fly hands off?

Do you mess with it during combat or just getting to it?

Thanks

Eagler

Elevator/aileron trim on 4 way thumb switch.
Rudder trim on another thumb switch.

I usually feel the aircraft and trim accordingly.  Mostly done during quiet periods of combat.  Autopilot (level/speed/climb) trims automatically, so just slight changes to those stable settings afterwards for combat is enough.  If I want to turn/roll faster, keep nose up longer or something extreme I'll make adjustments during combat.  Rudder trim is least used, unless something is off, like half my wing

[save]

Can anyone manual trim in AH and fly hands off?

I would think you should be able to for a short bit but I can't do it at all..

But I can't do it in IL2 or DCS either so just wondering if it was me

Thanks for your takes on the subject! 

Eagler

IL2 have a wind coefficient on most servers. That could be one reason.

I never used CT in AH, but I programmed on my stick elevator trim, and it was essential specially for the 109's.

[Banshee7]

This is new to me. I literally always fly with CT on. I prefer to KISS…. Keep it simple stupid. 

[Oldman731]

This is new to me. I literally always fly with CT on.

Not that anyone should emulate me, but I leave CT on all the time, with two exceptions.  P-38s and Franks are elevator-quick enough that CT slows them down (it's always trimming for a rapidly changing angle of attack, which holds those two back).  Otherwise, you manual trim people, aren't you always having yaw and roll trim issues?  Particularly in 109s, I would think that the torque throws off your rudder and aileron trim quite a bit.

Hey, maybe some day I'll try it.

- oldman

[The Fugitive]

Thanks Pumpa calibration might be part of my issue

Do you keep CT on or just pop it occasionally like Fugi does?

That Skyyr fellow seems to keep it off after a rest at the start of his dueling

I seem to get a better response if it's popped to reset trim as others have noted then try to manual alittle during the fight with the rotor trim but that is just elevator trim..

Rudder trim starts to get wonky quickly and to try to control both elevator trim on the throttle rotor and rudder trim on a hat on the stick while trying to press another button on the throttle to get the overhead view ....

What about "flying the ball" as it relates to rudder position? Anyone try to keep their ball in the middle? 

 

Eagler

Once Im at best corner speed Ill trim the plane by popping it on and off, but I leave it that way until dead or climbing out after the win. I have enough trouble trying to get angles that there really isnt any tie to play with trim.

[Banshee7]

Not that anyone should emulate me, but I leave CT on all the time, with two exceptions.  P-38s and Franks are elevator-quick enough that CT slows them down (it's always trimming for a rapidly changing angle of attack, which holds those two back).  Otherwise, you manual trim people, aren't you always having yaw and roll trim issues?  Particularly in 109s, I would think that the torque throws off your rudder and aileron trim quite a bit.

Hey, maybe some day I'll try it.

- oldman

I've never had an issue in 38s, but it makes sense from what I've read others saying about it.  I've been flying this long using CT...why change now?  Kudos to those that do it, though.

[Animl-AW]

I use nothing. I forgot almost every trick I knew. And my stick SUCKS.

[Eagler]

Thanks again for everyones input on the subject..

As I have stated before I was using CT and manual trim keeping it on CT most of the time but switching to full deflection elevator manual trim when in the middle of a tight t&b..

That works well on most pilots if they stay level with me and we just go round and round..as long as they aren't in a super turning plane like a zero..

I noticed that better pilots go up more than around and keeping trim out of the extremes help keep the nose up but not to much like I get at max deflection..

Your comments have helped me understand this much better...I hope they educated others as well

 

Eagler

[mERv]

sure, that's what trim is for.  But changes in speed will start to cause changes to flight based on old trim.  Not sure why you'd want to unless you think autopilot is making unnecessary corrections and holding you back a knot or two.

that makes me wonder if toggling CT on/off would help the b24s not bounce around so much coming out of a turn or climb when immediately afterwords you try to calibrate if that makes any sense. The 17's and lancs you can do a 90 degree turn on a dime, snap roll while losing 500' in altitude,  and with a minor throttle adjustment they will stabilize in a matter of second. The 24s and even the 29s will bounce around for 30-45seconds before the stabilize no matter what you do with the throttle.

[Shuffler]

I trimmed my P38J last Christmas and could hardly get it off the ground. I think I put too many lights.....not sure.

[svaalbar]

Only time I ever trim is to avoid compressing in 109s etc

This topic has been interesting because I've asked about trim before for use in combat and usually met with radio silence

[The Fugitive]

Only time I ever trim is to avoid compressing in 109s etc

This topic has been interesting because I've asked about trim before for use in combat and usually met with radio silence

Oh, we didnt think you were still around otherwise we would have kept our mouths shut.     

[Eagler]

This thread has helped me figure out what's wrong with the way I was using manual trim...I think..

I have a TM1600 for throttle that I have elevator trim on the left side rotor and aileron trim on the paddle wing that is on the front..

When I go to manual trim .. trim is thrown off as aileron trim starts to spin to the setting the rotor was last left at..whereas if it's on a hat say, I would think it is neutral until you press that hat direction

The paddle is a temporary change in aileron trim as soon as you stop pressing the paddle it swings back to a center of some sort..

So I think I need to move things around and put trim on hats which should be interesting as then I will trim when I try to pull the map up or send a check 6... 

 

Eagler

[SNO]

My trims are on a hat switch, if you switch off CT or move the hat switch the trimming starts from the position the elevator and ailerons were at the change to manual trim. In manual off the hat switch the trim stays where you adjust to and doesn’t go back to nuetral as it does with the paddle. I tried it on a paddle and didn’t like it.