Author Topic: OT: Heatsinks for processors  (Read 611 times)

Offline flakbait

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2001, 04:07:00 PM »
While we're on the subject of heat here's a few tips for anyone.

1) If your vid card is overheating (mine does every day) then pop some of the filler strips for the PCI ISA slots. If you want to remove them and not just losen the screw, get a small piece of screen to stick over the openings. This will keep out dust, cat hair, and most anything. When it gets clogged just replace the screen. Sometimes that'll give you a little extra air flow to cool things down.

2) Bay coolers work wonders! It's just a fan on a PCI or ISA card that blows air around. Just watch out for your card slot design inside the case. Just stick the thing right under your vid card or in another slot; it'll cool things right down.

3) Worst case scenario; take the side-panel of the case off and point a fan at it. I'm not to this point yet, but I'm getting there fast. If you're good with a saw you can slice an opening in the top or side panel and stick a small fan in there. I've seen it done once with excellent results, but don't do this unless you know what you're doing and are desperate!

Oddly enough, original Pentiums (raises hand) and some PII's don't heat up that much. My heat sink stays fairly cold all the time. It's not secured to the chip with heat transfer goo, just a metal clip. I've put a finger on the processor after I shut down the system and it was ice cold. Try the same thing with my vid card and you'd burn your finger. Probably gonna buy a bay cooler this weekend since that thing is getting way too hot.

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Sandman_SBM

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2001, 06:49:00 PM »
Heat sink compound is a must... you'll get 10-20 degrees cooler just by using it.



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Offline Jigster

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2001, 06:57:00 PM »
Double fan cases work pretty well, I have a P 1GHZ, and the second fan (slightly larger in diameter then the transformer/power supply fan) that ducts the air from the frontal vents, over the GF2 Ultra, and through the double sinks on the CPU. It has a quick snapping assembly to remove the ducting over the chip, and pop clips for the heat sinks.

Overall, the chip never gets over 101 degrees. I'd overclock but I have no reason to right now  

Offline jihad

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2001, 07:27:00 PM »
 

Blurb from website:  http://www.step-thermodynamics.com/CoolingSystems.htm

This Cooling System is custom designed for the most Hard Core users.  We have run our ThunderBird CPU's up to 1400MHz+ at 1.90V+ with positively no heat issues under even the most stressful applications.  Quite bluntly, our KODIAK 7000 Cooling System matched to our ThrottleBody™ Accelerator Card yields results unmatched by anyone.   Period.  As they say, no one else comes close!  Works with all Socket 370 and Socket A motherboards, and includes a free tube of our unbeatable STEP ThermaSeal CPU Compound!

These guys have awesome deals if your looking to upgrade or build a new system.

 
Quote
1) If your vid card is overheating (mine does every day)

What video card are you running? I have a TNT2 V770 Pro that came sans cooling fan, I bought a fan for a Pentium CPU and it screwed right onto the stock Viper heatsink.

 I flashed the cards BIOs with the V770 Ultra BIOs <thnx Kbman>  and have a Ultra for less $$$ that never overheats!  

There is a lot of good cooling info here -   http://www.overclockers.com/home.asp  also.

PakRat

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2001, 10:20:00 PM »
Moose - there is a possibility of damage. With the heatsink off, that puppy can get really hot. Since it sounds like it is back up and running, the die obviously didn't crack - a real possibility when run sans heatsink. But depending on what clock speed you were running, core voltages, etc, it could get really hot.

As chips get hot, the atoms that make up the chip features can start to diffuse at much higher rates than normal. Basically the features start to blur out. With the small feature size and high heat, they can blur out pretty fast and bad.

Since it still runs, what you might see is more of a tendency to lock up as the chip warms up. Your motherboard probably came with a utility to monitor CPU temperature - if you see lockups, I'd install that and see if it happens at a certain temperature threshold. Actually, it's good to install anyway since depending on your motherboard, you can check voltages and temps anyway.

You might consider taking the CPU and heatsink back where you got them or try returning them if mail order to get an exchange. I can't say on the PIII, but on my Athlon T-Bird, there are little round supports around the edge of the chip to stabilize the heat sink. If your CPU was missing them, it might be a good case for a "defective" part that cause the sink to slip off.

One other thing - I think the PIII has the same flip-chip style design that the T-Bird has. If so, then that square in the center is the actual silicon of the CPU and is very fragile. The instructions that came with my T-Bird point out just how fragile it is and how you have to be really careful when putting on a heat sink or you can break the CPU in two.

Best luck man. That really sucks. With the high heat though, I'd do whatever you can to get it replaced. It could be a really marginal chip now. Other solution is if it gets flaky is just to run it at a lower clock but then you sacrifice performance.

EDIT: Just read Lephturn's post - looks like you might have gotten lucky with the shutdown feature.

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[This message has been edited by PakRat (edited 03-16-2001).]

Offline Wardog

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2001, 11:16:00 PM »
The white stuff is Thermal glue.

Tip 1: Dont use it. Its actually not dissapating heat as fast as a bare connection to the Heat sink.

The blue foam thingy is a Thermal pad.

Tip 2: Remover this from heat sink with a razor. Also does not dissapte heat as fast as a bare heat sink.

Ice is talking about the Globewin fan, thats what im useing. It a big bastage  


Dog out........

PakRat

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2001, 12:01:00 AM »
Um Wardog - everything I've ever seen says that using thermal paste or phase-change thermal material is way better than nothing at all.

Unless both surfaces are perfectly flat and smooth you will get better heat transfer using the above heat transfer materials. And I mean perfectly. It's why they are made and why they've been around for years - they work.

You want to use no more than necessary to fill any voids and surface imperfections but you do want to use it. Not using it is asking for hot chips and premature failure.

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Offline flakbait

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2001, 01:45:00 AM »
I'm using a Creative Banshee with a little plastic waffle-style heatsink. Even 5 minutes after I shutdown it's still warm, which is why I'm buying a bay cooler. There's two slots open under the vid card and I'm planning on sticking the bay cooler right under the sucker. It just gets too hot. I'm a little lost as to what the size of my power supply is. There's no sticker visible and pulling it would involve me stripping half the system.


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Flakbait [Delta6]
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Richthofen's blood and celebrate his death."
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Offline SKurj

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2001, 10:24:00 AM »
For overclockers, or anyone concerned about heat...
Look for coolers by:

Globalwin
Alpha
Orb

SKurj

PakRat

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #24 on: March 17, 2001, 01:03:00 PM »
Before buying an Orb cooler, see the reviews at Sharkey Extreme or Tom's Hardware. The Orbs look really neat but apparently have problems with interferences with nearby components and just don't do a good job of cooling - one of the lowest rated.

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Offline Wardog

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #25 on: March 17, 2001, 11:05:00 PM »
Pakrat..

Wrong, anything between the Heatsink and CPU and i mean anything does not dissapate heat as fast as can be done with bare Metal on CPU.

Tip 3: this i didnt mention as it is for the hard core O/C guys..

Wet sand the CPU (sand paper must be on a flat level block.) with fine grit. Your taking the top layer of silicon off the center of the processor. As you come to the bare metal of the CPU stop every second stroke to make sure you arent going into the metal. Then fit the Bare Heatsink and sand till a perfect fit.

Do not use thermal Glue, Do not use a Themal Pad.

Like i said, not for the faint of heart. But this is the best and fastest way to get rid of heat. How do i know? been over clocking my CPUs for 9 years now.There is also a ton of info on cooling if ya spend a little time looking for it.

And if ya dont think a 1 degree variance wont make a difference, think again. Heat is the worst enemy of any system components.


Dog out..........

Offline bloom25

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2001, 01:19:00 AM »
If you want to see the heatsink that I want for my CPU, go to www.tomshardware.com  and find their recent heatsink article.  They review one called the "Silverado" made by a company called Noise Control.  It has a silver slug (yes, silver as in the metal silver   ) on the bottom.  Unfortunately I've tried, but never managed, to find where I could buy it.  I haven't even managed to find the manufacturer's web site.  You guys need to see this one, it's pretty neat.

(BTW:  If you are wondering why they use silver, that's because silver is the best electrical and thermal conducting metal.  That's a trivia question that most people don't know about, silver is actually a better conductor than gold.  Gold is used because it is much easier to work with and does not tarnish.)

More random thoughts:

1. Intel CPUs have a thermal diode, AMD has yet to include this for some reason.  (They are including one on the new Athlons coming out in April.  They are going under the codename Palomino. )

2. I wish I would have been the one to think of selling a fan hooked to a $.60 1A To-220 package Adjustable Voltage Regulator chip and marketed it as an "accelerator card."  LOL   Take that silly thing off and let the fan run at full speed.  It doesn't hurt the CPU to run cooler.    I use those chips daily to build little projects, so I'm not dumb enough to think that they improve the performance of a fan.  Now if they changed the design and placed a small switching power supply and boost LC circuit on there to actually *raise* the voltage, that would be a good idea.  (Hmm, now that's got me thinking.  I sense some overheating fans in my near future.   I think I've got some Mosfets in a drawer and I know I've got a spare 555 timer lying around.  Now if I can find a few caps and an inductor or two I'm all set.   )



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Offline Lephturn

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #27 on: March 18, 2001, 10:30:00 AM »
Read this:
 http://www.hardocp.com/reviews/cooling/roundup0301/

Wardog, you are correct that die directly on HSF is the best interface, but unless you are going to lap (sand down until smooth and perfectly flat) both the CPU slug top and the heatsink, it may not be the best course of action.  A bit of good paste like Arctic Silver will fill the gaps between imperfectly matched surfaces and give you a better mating.  The mistake most folks make is to use too much thermal compound, which ends up being too thick and not allowing as much metal-metal contact.  A very thin layer of good heat compound will only fill the "gaps", and should give you a better mating in most regular situations.

For most users, I would recommend a thin layer of good thermal paste.  I've seen some HSF surfaces that were pretty far off of being flat that would give you a really bad mating if you didn't have a little paste in there.  Some are better than others, but I still say use a tiny bit of good paste unless you are willing to lap your CPU slug and HSF unit to get a nearly perfect mating.

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Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome for AH articles and training info!

[This message has been edited by Lephturn (edited 03-18-2001).]

PakRat

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2001, 10:45:00 AM »
Wardog...

Wrong. Wet sanding the CPU only decreases the flatness and the surface area between the CPU and the heat sink. The "top layer of silicon" as you call it *is* the CPU. The whole thing is made of silicon and the various layers that make a silicon wafer into an integrated circuit. The circuit layers are on the bottom and the techniques used now is called flip-chip bonding.

There is no bare metal layer - if you reach the circuitry, your chip is already way past dead. You would need to understand how these chips are made to understand. I'll turn your comment back to you - there is a ton of info on cooling if you spend time looking for it.

The wafers used to make CPUs are precision polished to degrees of flatness that no home user would ever hope to match. These are single crystals of silicon polished to be as flat as possible as the features being photoetched and ion implanted are literally a few layers of atoms thick. Wet sand that baby and you will put a nice dome on the top of your CPU which will induce stress when clamped and limit the area over which heat can transfer.

As a primer, heat flow is proportional to temperature difference, area, and thermal conductivity. When you sand the surface you are putting millions of gouges in the surface limiting the contact area to whatever high ridges are between the gouges and since you aren't using any thermal compound, to the air trapped in the gouges. Bad heat transfer. If you wet sand your chip then you more than anyone else ought to be using thermal grease or phase change material.

The only thing sanding down the die does is limit the distance in silicon the heat has to travel at the expense of CPU die strength. Already there are specifications on how heavy a heatsink can be to limit the chance of cracking the CPU die during shipping shocks. Get it too thin and you bring that threshold down to the area where just clamping on a heatsink could fracture the die.

Wet sanding the die is about the worst advice I've ever seen on a board.

Have you actually sanded your own chip down? And if so, as such a serious overclocker you should have before and after numbers. What are they? Would you be so kind as to point me to those web pages that encourage people to literally roughen the surface of the chip and then not use any heat sink compound? Inquiring minds want to know.

I have read lots of overclocking and cooling information over the years - being an overclocker since before IBM put code in their BIOS on their PCs to test for overclocked CPUs (where you booted at one speed and then switched to high speed after the boot was finished).

And I agree completely that heat is an enemy of system components. It causes those tiny features to diffuse. If you want to get technical, do you by any chance know the rate equation?

I find it odd that AMD, Intel, and anyone else using flip-chip bonding don't encourage sanding down the die and using no thermal compounds between die and heat sink. In fact, they go quite the opposite and preach not even touching the die due to the oils on fingers having a lower thermal transfer coefficient than the phase change material. I also find it odd that there are many companies whose entire product line is nothing but thermal compounds designed specifically to go between chip or chip package and heat sinks.

I should probably say that I do electronics and instrumentation for a living and have to keep up with the different technologies out there. I have never, ever, seen anything like this before. Quack science at its worst.

PakRat out......

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Offline Wardog

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OT: Heatsinks for processors
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2001, 12:36:00 PM »
Pakrat

Wet sanding is the worst adise to give anyone who has not been O/C there CPUs..

Thats why it wasnt included in my 1st post on this thread. I said it wasnt for the faint of heart. Ive tryed it and it does work. This is not for someone who is incompetent. Only those who have been doing it for year and have the experiance to know what there doing.

Thermal glue is just that A glue. From personal experiance monitering CPU heat there is a temp difference and for hi O/Cing of the CPU this is the only way to go.A few degree variance means life or death to the CPU.

You must know this since you seem to have done it yourself.


Dog out......