Author Topic: CDRW needed  (Read 1198 times)

Offline DAVENRINO

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« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2003, 01:35:35 PM »
I have a Plex 16 & Plex 40.  Never any problems with either and they play any CD I stick in them.  I have read in some forums that Liteon may have caught up or even passed Plextor.

Quote
Defiance Liteon  

Some plextors though rated as best in the industry will only allow "backedup" cdr's etc to be played in their own burners
goto places like cdrinfo.com and read for yourself is a wise thing in these matters  



DJ229
DAVE aka DJ229-AIR MAFIA
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Offline Defiance

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« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2003, 01:49:30 PM »
Hiya's,
Rgr what ya saying Dav

Some Plex's seemed to only allow playing "backup" discs in the burner it was actually burned in ;)

Now since Liteon kinda gave their consumers what they wanted eg....Burn anything (full dao etc) which allowed playing of "backedup" (dare i say it Copied !!!) (Rem it's legal to backup most sw as long as you own/have rights of sw (most countries i know of anyways))

since say Liteon and all their "rebadged" companies for eg LG/Lacie etc etc have been selling and giving most ppl what they wanted (dao etc etc) it seems that Plex's have given in and gone the same/similar route and now it seems they are in "the same boat" and allows "backups" to play in any cd etc etc

1 thing seems weird though, on many a test with Plex's that would only play SD1/2/2.5 etc to play in their burner that did the dead some older cd-roms allowed plex's said burnt "backups" to play lol (seems whatever some plexies had in em to only allow playing in burned cd defianately wasn't in older cd-roms)

I know at this moment in time Liteon gives the bang for buck (rem you can get a rebadged Liteon for less i guess but.....You may not find updated firmwares for rebadged as you would for a Liteon)

For me Liteon equal Plex's in technology and more to the point undercuts in the pricing to Plex's which in todays ripoff world i thinks a great thing

Get the lady whatever but rem for identical/almost ident tech liteons up there with plex's

Offline AKDejaVu

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« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2003, 02:15:39 PM »
I like the Liteon writers.  I've never had an issue with one and they are usually bundled with the Nero burning software (one of my favorites).

AKDejaVu
« Last Edit: January 01, 2003, 02:35:29 PM by AKDejaVu »

Offline DAVENRINO

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« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2003, 02:24:24 PM »
Defiance,
Now i see what you were saying.;) For some strange legal reason, Plextors sold in Europe were sold with a utility called Plextools that allowed "first session" ..aheemmm "backups".  Plextools was not included with drives sold in the USA nor was it available for download on any official sites.  If one looks hard enough, one can find anything one needs. HeHe!;)

I am pretty good at looking , but i haven't checked to see if Plextools is officially available in USA, yet.  My "backups" made in my Plex 40 do work in my Plex 16.

I do agree that from what I have read Liteon does just as good a job if not better at a cheaper price.

Dave
« Last Edit: January 01, 2003, 02:28:07 PM by DAVENRINO »
DAVE aka DJ229-AIR MAFIA
CH USB HOTAS/ONKYO 705 7.2 SURROUND SOUND/ 60" SONY A3000 SXRD  TV

Offline ebgb

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« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2003, 03:20:16 PM »
I've had a TDK 24/10/40 and have made only 1 coaster with it,
the very first one.   Works with every media I've used - even the
cheap stuff with no problems.

g

Offline beet1e

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« Reply #20 on: January 15, 2003, 12:35:34 AM »
I couldn't get the Liteon or Plextor, so I've gone with the TDK Cyclone, as Revvin recommended it.

As for the rest of the build, no problems at all. Once I'd got the heatsink on the processor, I knew the hard part was over. ;) I installed W2000 Pro, and then had to install various software/drivers, including the VIA drivers. I had to get the Athlon 1800 (1.53MHz) as the 1700 seems to have been discontinued. That's OK, but the spec does not have to be leading edge. But it would still run Aces High...

The processor runs at a steady 44°C - much cooler than my Athlon 1.2GHz :eek:

Here it is, lying on the floor just before I replaced the side cover and stood it upright.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2003, 12:37:47 AM by beet1e »

Offline AKDejaVu

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« Reply #21 on: January 15, 2003, 12:43:42 AM »
Hehehehe... laying on carpet.  That's classic.

AKDejaVu

Offline beet1e

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« Reply #22 on: January 15, 2003, 12:50:06 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by AKDejaVu
Hehehehe... laying on carpet.  That's classic.

AKDejaVu
   :confused:

Offline straffo

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« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2003, 03:24:29 AM »
Static electricty can frie your PC  ...

And a carpet is full of it


copied from : http://www.webopedia.com/DidYouKnow/Computer_Science/2002/static.asp


Static Electricity and Computers

Whenever the casing of a computer is opened and its internal workings are exposed (to change a hard drive or add memory chips, for example), there is a danger of damaging the computer with the buildup of static electricity that is held by the human body. The internal workings of a computer, and especially the hard drive, are extremely susceptible to static electricity, which can cause considerable damage to the hard drive if it is zapped with even a small amount. Microchip damage can occur if it is exposed to static electricity as low as 500 volts, and humans are not able to perceive static electricity until it has reached about 1,500 volts. (Walking across a rug can produce a static electricity voltage of up to 12,000 volts, but static voltage is not life threatening.) So it is possible to damage a hard drive with static electricity that is not even felt by the person because it is at such a low voltage.

Static electricity is caused by a process called triboelectrification. Everything around us, and including us, is made of atoms, and every atom has in its center (nucleus) positively charged protons and neutrons, which have no electrical charge. Surrounding the atom are negatively charged electrons. The protons and neutrons in an atom do not change, but the electrons can move from one atom to another. When two objects touch, they exchange electrons, which causes one object to become electrically positive and the other to become electrically negative. When an object touches another object with either an opposite or neutral charge, electrons flow. Static electricity is created when electrons move back and forth between atoms.

To avoid zapping your components with static electricity, take precautions to ground the static electricity before touching any of the internal components of the computer. Wearing an ESD wrist strap will prevent any static electricity from damaging your computer. Another way to ground the static electricity is to touch the internal metal frame of the computer's case while the computer is plugged into an electrical socket. The static electricity will be discharged and grounded as the electrical circuit is grounded via the AC outlet. And to be on the safe side, always handle the electronic circuitry on the motherboard, video card, modem, sound card, hard drive and other internal components by any insulated, non- circuitry areas if they have them to insure that you do not send a bolt of static electricity coursing through it.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2003, 03:30:24 AM by straffo »

Offline beet1e

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« Reply #24 on: January 15, 2003, 05:19:05 AM »
Oh, that! I was puzzling over this - thought he was getting at the dust problem. My own PC gets full of dust, even on a desk a metre high.

I've lived in France and I've lived in the US, and in both countries noticed how electrical apparatus was often unearthed (two pin plug). Here, all appliances are earthed (three pin plugs on everything). And so...
Quote
Another way to ground the static electricity is to touch the internal metal frame of the computer's case while the computer is plugged into an electrical socket. The static electricity will be discharged and grounded as the electrical circuit is grounded via the AC outlet.
...from straffo's text would apply. I did the assembly on my dining table, which I had covered with a padding of newspaper. Only when I came to run it did I put it on the floor - table needed for monitor and keyboard. Sorry - no hard floors around here! Besides - England being damp as it is...

By the way, AKDejaVu - and I cannot resist saying this - :D  When refuelling a light aircraft, one should always connect the anti-static line to the aircraft to guard against a build up of static, which would otherwise become a fire hazard at the moment the gas nozzle came into contact with the area around the filler aperture. Years ago, I flew a Cessna 152 from Eugene (Mahlon Sweet) up to Bend near the Three Sisters Wilderness area. I noticed that pilots were doing their own refuelling. I guess it's just the motorists they don't trust with gas nozzles in Oregon!  ROFL - :)
« Last Edit: January 15, 2003, 05:22:36 AM by beet1e »

Offline straffo

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« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2003, 05:48:28 AM »
Concerning the 3 pin plug it depend of the age of the building  my house build in 1991 as 3 pin plug everywhere.
In the older it was mandatory only in room with water (bathroom ,"cuisine") and in very very old building you are just lucky to have electricity ;)
I once lived in a house build in 1647 and the electricy war wired in a very strange way (some part of the electricty were from the begining of the 20th century !) I called it the "siberian" wiring :D

for the refuelling when searching on the web I found the following page : http://www.kbmoll.com/invest/iv_static.htm
I never heard of such a phenomenon in france ???

Offline AKDejaVu

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« Reply #26 on: January 15, 2003, 07:01:05 AM »
Static discharge works on a difference in potential.  You're outlet's ground is not matching the charge of your carpet.  The premise behind grounding an aircraft is to take the potential of the the aircraft and match it to the ground you are standing on (they are just poles in the ground).  A 3-way plug does not do this.

Basically, you can still build up a static charge and discharge it through your PC to ground.  Depending on the path it takes... that could be bad... especially since the contact would most likely occur through plugging in a card.

The only real way to avoid this is if the PC were plugged in and you had a grounding strap around your wrist that went to the same ground.

Basically, grounding through the power chord does nothing if your carpet is not grounded.

Pssst... you also connect the plane's fuel truck to the same ground as the plane (rubber tires).

AKDejaVu

Offline beet1e

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« Reply #27 on: January 15, 2003, 09:21:50 AM »
Well I've been building/tinkering with PCs for more than 10 years, and I've never had a problem.
Quote
Pssst... you also connect the plane's fuel truck to the same ground as the plane (rubber tires).
That assumes the fuel is delivered by truck. In the case of pulling up to a pump, the static line from the pump is fine. What was that "Pssst"? The sound of those rubber tyres being deflated?

Offline tomato

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« Reply #28 on: January 15, 2003, 09:23:14 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by beet1e
As for the rest of the build, no problems at all.  

LOL!!  You mean you had no problems after the PC wouldn't boot up, and you discovered that you had the floppy cable in the wrong way round.  It was only when the floppy drive wouldn't work that this was discovered.  Lucky I had my mobile on at the time. :D

Offline SOB

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« Reply #29 on: January 15, 2003, 10:49:54 AM »
I've always been curious about just how serious a threat static is.  When I first started tinkering with computers I was always sure to take precautions against the big bad "S", but the more comfortable I got the less I cared.  At this point I've probably had my hands in damn near a thousand computers all without static protection and have never had a problem.  Most of these were worked on in my last job in either our IS office or one of several mortgage offices...all with carpeted floors, and most with nasty static potential in the winter months.

What have you guys experienced?


SOB
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