Author Topic: I need Dr. for my CH Pro Rudders (Read 551 times)

fuzeman · « **on:** February 23, 2003, 10:53:27 AM »

OK, it's happening way to frequently now, of course at the wrong time.
My CH Pro rudders, attached w a CH FX and Pro throttle into a SB gameport, frequently go hard left with no input from me. Auto pilot will keep me airbourne but that makes for an easy target. As I said, it happens at the worst time and one of those times is midfight and it usually ends in my horrible demise.
It seems like an open circuit at times, very similar to the time my throttle was going full with it set to 0, and its over due for surgery. I've got the ohm meter but my main question is...

Is it 'easy' to open those up and put them back together or do they somewhat explode and make it tough to reassemble?
Oh yea, they are old analog ones and out of warranty. In fact I bought them used off an old Air Warrior pilot, I think it was BCR, if my memory is firing correctly.

Thanks to anyone who has experience in this area and for your time,
fuzeman

Bonden · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2003, 07:12:39 PM »

The CH pro pedals are pretty simple to dis/re assemble. Place them upside down on a table, remove all screws and carefully remove the bottom portion. This will remain attached to the top by wires so you need enough room on the table to support it. Look for broken wires, repair same and reassemble. The wires frequently get broken, you will get good at it

There was a thread in here somewhere where there were pictures of a disassembled set - see if you can search that out.

Hope this helps

fuzeman · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2003, 10:32:22 PM »

Roger, thanks for the input Bonden.
I'll try a search. It's definately intermittant now but growing in frequency.
When I opened up the throttle the 'clip' at the end of a wire that slid on the potentiometer was loose. I let 'Enzo the Mad Crimper' have it's way with it and all was well after that.
Anybody whoever worked on Olivetti 'computer' equipment will be familiar with Enzo

I used to work on banking teller terminals and ATMs so the inards wont scare me to much. Was just wondering if they came apart with force when released or you had to disassemble it.
I sugggested to one guy, a few months back in the TA, to open up his CH pedals and he had some 'difficulty', shall we say, getting them back together.

Again, thanks and for the reply,
fuzeman

capt. apathy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2003, 10:39:57 PM »

had the same problem on mine (they are gameport I don't know if that makes any difference from usb).

took them apart and found a couple wires where being pinched together by the linkage. they came apart easy. took about 20 minutes to cut, solder, and re-insulate the 2 wires. maybe 15 minutes 2 put them back together. no problems.

btw- get yourself some of that silicone grease. and lube the linkage while you got them apart. did mine when I fixed the electrical and they are so smooth. better than new

fuzeman · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2003, 11:36:15 PM »

capt. apathy, good point on the silly-cone grease.
Mine are analog/gameport also.
I did do a search for the CH pictures and couldn't find them.
No problem though, I NEVER look at the pictures.. I just read the text.
I'll be doing the surgery soon and with your guys advice, I don't think I'll even need malpractice insurance

fuzeman

capt. apathy · « **Reply #5 on:** February 27, 2003, 01:14:42 AM »

you should get some windex (or something simular) and an old toothbrush. you'd be suprised by the amount of crap that was in mine after 2 years.

some heat-shrink tubing in variouse sizes is real handy too. (small size for individual wires, bigger to hold the bundles together so they don't get pinched again)

Eagler · « **Reply #6 on:** February 27, 2003, 07:13:48 AM »

mine go hard right when trying to play in WinXP

they are perfect in Win98

hate to see you go through all that for nothing ...

X45/CH Pro Ped USB combo here

DAVENRINO · « **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2003, 12:26:02 PM »

Eagler,
NP with CH USB peds and XP Pro SP1 for me.
DJ229

fuzeman · « **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2003, 12:51:39 PM »

I am running Win98se and the trouble 'seems' very similar to the above mentioned loose wire in the throttle so I'm hopeing no major problems besides the loose connection. They are old and used and were bought off an AW flyer so they probably have logged many flight hours. With no job new ones are out of the question.
I'll try and think positive and exude as many posistive waves as I can during the 'operation'.

Again, ty all

~~fuzeman~~

Jackal1 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 28, 2003, 05:24:26 PM »

I`ve had this prob with mine a couple of times. I just opened them up, cleaned the pots with WD-40, tadaaaa good as new. I`ve had mine since Aw Classic.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #10 on:** March 07, 2003, 10:20:26 PM »

so, how did the surgery go?

fuzeman · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2003, 11:23:35 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by capt. apathy
so, how did the surgery go?

{ Note- this e-mail will make the most use of smiley faces expressions. }

Well seeing this was the Dr's first try at the procedure and had no malpractice insurance

it turned into exploratory surgery only

The results found ....
1) Two broken wires

but.. they went up to the toe brakes, which I don't use [yet], so I forgot about them

2) No major problems with the slider wires or mechanism

So I put them back together with just a cleaning to see if that did anything and I'll fix the wires later

I tried them out and it happend again

well slightly

So next time I open it up, I'll fix the wires to the toe brakes and ohm out the entire wire harness and see how it looks.

I'll have to open it up multiple times but rarely do I do things the easy way

fuzeman

capt. apathy · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2003, 08:53:23 PM »

one thing I forgot to mention.

the wires inside the main cable brake inside the insulation from the pedals being kicked around and pulling on the cord. I cut about 5" out of the cable where it came through the housing. then soldered it back together.

if you use some silicone or glue from a hot glue gun on the cable where it goes into the housing to replace the rubber lug that keeps a pull on the cable from pulling off wires inside.