Modeller question

[frank3]

I have a question about plastic modells,

I've got a really old modell which I made when I was about 7, so you can understand that all the painting has failed misourably.
The paint and glue all covered the plexiglass windows.

When I had an exchange to Denmark we made glasses by sanding them, next thing we did was covering the sanded glasses with some liquid stuff which made it transparent again.

my question now is, does this stuff work for the plastic windows too? if it is, what kind of stuff is it?

Also I don't want to over-paint the stickers which are on it, is there any way to remove them so I can use them again?

Tnx in anticipation

[AKWeav]

Some times the canopy connection to the sprue extends into the glass area, requiring trimming and smoothing. This leave the glass area some what fogged. To repair this there are two methods I use:
1. Polishing, but this tends to leave the clear plastic very brittle and easily cracked.
2. Touching up area with gloss clear lacquer. This seems to work the best for me.

My self, I would leave that model exactly as is. This is a momento from your youth, cherish it. Most 7 year olds don't build highly detailed clean models.

If you want to try to build it again, it could have been reissued, or an unbuilt unit might be obtained from sources like e-bay.

[-ammo-]

you can coat the clear pastic peices with Future Floor Wax (its acrylic) and will give the plastic a very clean look.

[frank3]

Originally posted by AKWeav
Some times the canopy connection to the sprue extends into the glass area, requiring trimming and smoothing. This leave the glass area some what fogged. To repair this there are two methods I use:
1. Polishing, but this tends to leave the clear plastic very brittle and easily cracked.
2. Touching up area with gloss clear lacquer. This seems to work the best for me.

My self, I would leave that model exactly as is. This is a momento from your youth, cherish it. Most 7 year olds don't build highly detailed clean models.

If you want to try to build it again, it could have been reissued, or an unbuilt unit might be obtained from sources like e-bay.

I was intend to leave it as it is, but it just sits there at the bottom of my showcase and I want it to earn a place at eyesight so that's why I wanted to repaint it.
and I'm only 15 so is isnt that old

that gloss clear lacquer, what is it and where can I get it? and how to polish the windows? (I ask to much, but Im from holland and don't know all the english terms...)

tnx for the info! I really hope to get it right, when so, I'll post some pics of it.

[frank3]

Originally posted by -ammo-
you can coat the clear pastic peices with Future Floor Wax (its acrylic) and will give the plastic a very clean look.

that really works for window pieces with old paint/glue on it? would be very nice!

[AKWeav]

Not much you can about glue on clear plastic. The glue actually melts the styrene (that's how it bonds it). My tip was for if you were going to remove the glue and try to hide the flaws somewhat.

The Future floor wax works, but it tends to shrink much more when dry and won't hide the scrapes on clear as well.

You should be able to find some Testor's "Gloss Coat Laquer" at any Hobby store that has plastic models. Don't thin it any. Get some on the tip of your brush, and just make contact with the area to be repaired. Try not to actually touch the part with the brush, but let the clear flow from the brush to the part.

Again, I would leave it as is, and move it next to your most recent model. A nice guage as to how far you have come with your skills.

If you arn't already, use a white glue (water base) like Elmers, or Microscale to attach clear parts. It dries clear, and the excess can be wiped away with a damp cloth. Some people use the clear lacquer to attach clear parts. That method doesn't seem to bond the parts quite as strongly, but it does work.

Enjoy, and good luck!

[BenDover]

First time i made a model, I couldn't swear for awhile, if you catch my drift.

[AKWeav]

I still do that when I blow one I've put alot of effort into. Happens less frequent now thank goodness.

My main problem are all those Jesus parts they put in the detail kits now. You know the really small ones that as you're manouvering them into position with the tweezers, ping! they go flipping off into oblivion, and you're like "Jesus, where the **** did that thing go?"   Then you might find it three months later after you've spent a week scratch building five replacements (losing the first four in the same manner).

[MrCoffee]

You can sometimes repairclear plastic then coat it with a clear coat. It depends on the depthness of the gouges (fissures) in the clear plastic because they reflect the light so sand it with ever finer grades of sandpaper/water (use testors fine grade pack red, grey, black, tan, etc...) then toothpaste/rag then ultimately "Bare Metal" plastic polish and a rag/towel. After its polished, it should look good, clear and shiny again. Depending on the quality of the plastic, you may or may not find that a clear coat (see above) will increase the overall shine. Depends on plastic.

Sandpapers and water to remove fissures and level surface, toothpase to blend prep it (see no fissures, area shud look grey),  then polish with Bare Metal plastic polish a rag and your thumb.

Usual problem is the clear plastic part gets cracks or breaks from the abuse.

EDIT: Actually this is harder then it sounds. The trick is judging the sufrace when you are at the toothpaste phase. If the surface is a perfect dull grey with NO scratches. You can polish it.

[gofaster]

You can remove paint and decals by soaking the model in Castrol Super Clean.  It'll loosen the paint without damaging the plastic.  It comes in a jug about the size of a jug of radiator coolant.  

Pour some straight out of the jug into a cheap plastic container. I use plastic containers a restaurant gave me to bring home some leftover pasta, but the Glad containers you can get cheap will work too.  Let the model soak in the Super Clean overnight.  Scrub off the loose paint with an old toothbrush or whatever is handy (so long as its not so coarse as to scratch the paint).  If you can't immerse the whole model at the same time, just turn it over and let the rest of the model soak in the same solution overnight (you can reuse the Super Clean).  I use  a container with resealable lids so I can use the Super Clean over and over.

For the canopy, you can scrape the glue and paint off with a good hobby knife or razor blade, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the plastic.  Testor's makes a package of sandpaper in a variety of grits that is much better than what you'll get at a home supply store.  Plus the Testor's sandpaper has a plastic backing rather than paper, so you'll be able to use it longer than the sandpaper with a paper backing.

Once you've gotten the clear plastic about as polished as its going to get, you can use Future floor polish to level the surface You can use special clear glue for Clear Plastic (I believe its also made by Testors) to fill in the gaps and what-not.

Alternatively, you can visit eBay and pick up a quality model at a cheap price and get a fresh start.  My average for a quality 1/72 Hasagawa fighter airplane kit is $2.00 for the kit and $5.00 for shipping (my local hobby shop averages $10 to $12 for the same kit).  Stick with the better brands like Hasegawa, Tamiya, and Revell/Monogram and you should do ok. Some sellers will let you combine shipping on multiple auctions, so your shipping charge per kit will go down.  Start with the "Going, going, gone" category first since those prices will be a little more "settled".

Good luck and remember, the key to modelling is to have fun doing it!

[frank3]

Thank you all very much for the tips!

But I think I'll stay with the wise one: I'll leave it as it is, currently I'm working on a F4U and Spit Mk.V both 1:72
I'll post the pics when ready

[AKWeav]

WTG grasshopper!:D

I'll look for them in the Screenshots section.

[frank3]

well, they're far from ready but I'll give ya a sign when they are