Author Topic: Hey Car guys!!!! HELP (Read 448 times)

midnight Target · « **on:** August 17, 2003, 12:40:45 PM »

Changing out an O2 sensor and the old one is welded in tight. I've tried everything! Suggestions????

(its in the manifold.)

Sikboy · « **Reply #1 on:** August 17, 2003, 12:57:26 PM »

Yeah, trade in that lefty electro-car and get a man's car powderpuff.

-Sik

midnight Target · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2003, 12:59:10 PM »

Well I bought a chevy truck, but my wife won't let me drive it.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2003, 01:12:18 PM »

let some wd-40 soak in for a while (dont get it all over, use the straw and get it only on the threads). then use a torch to heat the manifold up near the sensor(try not to heat the sensor).

try to break the sensor free while the manifold is hot and before the heat transfers to the sensor. the heat will expand the manifold a bit, and if you can get it to break before the sensor heats and expands also you might have a chance.

btw- don't forget to move flamables (wiring) out of the way before you break out the torch

john9001 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2003, 01:55:41 PM »

what apathy said , but i would let it soak over night, you might try "rust buster" or auto trans fluid, go slow , work it out.

the new one should come with anti-seize on the threads.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2003, 03:58:42 PM »

Quote

the new one should come with anti-seize on the threads.

and if not buy some. IMO every exaust part should use anti-seize. I'd have had to remove alot fewer broken studs from engine blocks if the guy before me had used it.

Roscoroo · « **Reply #6 on:** August 17, 2003, 05:00:32 PM »

i see you've had your share of Fords too .... (there stupid self locking thread design) Id like to get my hands on the engineer that thought that one up.(and submit him to as much torcher as the time ive spent fixing his f up)200 hrs easily...

culero · « **Reply #7 on:** August 17, 2003, 06:43:20 PM »

Heat and penetrating oils are good advice. If you can find a rice oil-based penetrant like MX-237 Master Oil its best, because its pretty much non-flammable and will continue to penetrate after the heat is applied.

What hasn't been mentioned yet is that in addition to moderately "shocking" the fastener by applying blows to the wrench (I use the palm of my hand, which is heavily callused, a mallet also works), you want to do so in BOTH directions of rotation.

Going in the direction that should tighten the fastener, but only in small bits, helps to break loose the locked threads. Even after you begin to see rotation, continue to work back and forth through a few degrees of rotation until you notice the threads really freeing up.

Be careful to increase the force used in small increments until results are achieved. Cast iron manifolds are relatively brittle in small cross-sections, such as threads. Too much force too suddenly can cause them to crumble.

Trust me on this

culero (gray-haired ASE certified Master techie)

capt. apathy · « **Reply #8 on:** August 17, 2003, 09:23:37 PM »

Quote

and submit him to as much torcher as the time ive spent fixing his f up)200 hrs easily...

absolutely, and the same process should be aplied also- fire, hot oil, impact, drilling, wrenching & twisting

pugg666 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 18, 2003, 04:25:06 AM »

nix the wd-40 and listen to culero.

wd-40 is corosive, use something like tri-flow, let it soak in for a while (30 minutes minimum) then use a little bit of gentle force (back and forth once it starts moving)...should do the trick

Tri-flow is teflon based lube that penetrates very well in my opinion, given time.

Just be sure to keep all flames away from it as it's highly flamable

Raubvogel · « **Reply #10 on:** August 18, 2003, 05:31:57 AM »

You guys forgot to add:

Drink beer and curse generously.

Ripsnort · « **Reply #11 on:** August 18, 2003, 07:38:29 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by midnight Target
Well I bought a chevy truck, but my wife won't let me drive it.

OWNED!