Author Topic: car problems (Read 751 times)

Replicant · « **Reply #15 on:** September 25, 2003, 02:33:02 PM »

Yup, make sure to get a good carb cleaner to clean it out and clean the throttle housing at the same time, make sure you don't get the spray on any paintwork.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #16 on:** September 25, 2003, 03:06:30 PM »

do you have Schucks auto parts in your area? ( chain of stores, I don't know what areas they are in though) they will loan you the electronic diagnostic tool, plug it into the port and it will read the diagnostics. some things won't show up but it's a cheap, easy way to rule out a few problems.

Eagler · « **Reply #17 on:** September 25, 2003, 03:10:11 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Dnil
nope no friends. After more research I am leaning toward an IAC valve. Seems like a lot of folks have this same exact problem. Either raplacing or cleaning this has fixed 99% of the problems. Now just have to figure out how to do it.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t101116.html

google:
2000 explorer IAC valve - Search Web

Eagler · « **Reply #18 on:** September 25, 2003, 03:11:13 PM »

step by step here

Cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve

rpm · « **Reply #19 on:** September 25, 2003, 03:12:38 PM »

Buy a Chilton's or Hayne's manual(about $20). I have one for my 95 Explorer and do most all of the work myself. Tools might be a problem, depending on the job. My Ex sold all of my tools and welder for $600 the day I moved out.

I bought a Metrinch set and it's great! Fits SAE and Metric with same wrench and they are quality tools. Cost about $100 but well worth it.

Back to the car prob...read the error code before you do anything drastic like call a Dealer. It could save you $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

Dnil · « **Reply #20 on:** September 25, 2003, 03:16:04 PM »

just got back from buying a haynes. Now just have to find the bugger. Thanks for the info guys, keep checking back, i may need help.

Dnil · « **Reply #21 on:** September 29, 2003, 01:20:43 PM »

think i fixed it....IAC valve. $80 part, took all of 5minutes to do.

hblair · « **Reply #22 on:** September 29, 2003, 01:34:29 PM »

DNIL, you might check the IAC valve.

hblair · « **Reply #23 on:** September 29, 2003, 01:35:37 PM »

Oh MAN! I was too late.
Oh well. Glad you found it on yer own.

Leslie · « **Reply #24 on:** September 29, 2003, 05:13:36 PM »

Glad you got it fixed. Was gonna say it could be something as simple as water in the gas. Fresh fuel up with new gas could fix it.

Les

midnight Target · « **Reply #25 on:** September 29, 2003, 05:17:59 PM »

since this thread is here.

A while back I posted a problem, couldn't get the freakin O2 sensor off the manifold. Turns out there is a special tool designed for this purpose. Looks like a spark plug socket, but has a slot in it for the sensor wire to go through. Snap it onto a breaker bar and you are golden.

(I ended up replacing the manifold btw, it was cracked on the underside.)

rpm · « **Reply #26 on:** September 29, 2003, 10:01:47 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Dnil
think i fixed it....IAC valve. $80 part, took all of 5minutes to do.

Just for kicks, call the Dealer you were thinking of taking it to and get a quote on replacing the valve. I'm willing to bet it's around $400.

Dnil · « **Reply #27 on:** September 29, 2003, 10:30:16 PM »

oh yes, easily that much. Changing the oil is harder then doing this, its 2 freaking bolts to change.

Plus pepboys wanted to charge 249 for the part. Dealer was around 80. Glad I came here and researched on the net.

rpm · « **Reply #28 on:** September 29, 2003, 10:58:29 PM »

One thing to keep in mind, Pep Boys, O'Reilley's and most chain auto parts stores will match prices. Can come in handy when the place with the cheapest price is out of stock.

Twist · « **Reply #29 on:** September 30, 2003, 04:06:56 AM »

Dang...I'm too late, but I'm glad you found it.

My 2000 F-150 suffered the same problem. I cleaned the IACV and throttle body, no more problems.

There are a lot of good websites out there for the F-150, must be as many for your Exploder. (no that's not a typo

)

A local dealer wanted 80 bucks to look at it and around 400 to repair if replacement of the IACV was necessary. Take your VIN # when you go see the parts guy at the dealer, that will help him select the right part for your vehicle.

The same dealer tried to tell me it was going to cost me 730 bucks for a front rotor! I bought 2 rotors for 112 each from Stillen Motorsports, and unlike the dealer models, these are crossdrilled.

Good post man.