Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: texasmom on June 02, 2008, 09:00:27 AM
-
You can't just pull out a wrench & fix them. They've got newfangled contraptions on them that are dealer-only just to get to them... TxDad has always fixed our vehicles (because he's handy like that ;)). I'm glad he wasn't here this morning to see one of them towed away for a simple repair. I got a feeling these newfangled cars of ours will be disposed of soon & go back to at least one older vehicle that he can tinker with... especially now that our boys are interested in tinkering.
-
Don't feel bad Mom, They an still be tinkered with, it just takes newfangled tools to tinker with that's all ;)
-
You can't just pull out a wrench & fix them. They've got newfangled contraptions on them that are dealer-only just to get to them... TxDad has always fixed our vehicles (because he's handy like that ;)). I'm glad he wasn't here this morning to see one of them towed away for a simple repair. I got a feeling these newfangled cars of ours will be disposed of soon & go back to at least one older vehicle that he can tinker with... especially now that our boys are interested in tinkering.
how new is it? most reputable private sector shops can help you with your car too. the computer systems aren't quite as complicated as the dealers would like you to think. granted, some such as bmw, audi, and higher end american cars have multiple computers networked together, but still not too hard to diagnose. remember, it's just an internal combustion engine under all that crap. all it needs is fuel, air spark, and compression.
good luck!
<<S>>
-
Most cards today with the OBDII computers will tell you what is wrong with them.
For example, if I get a check engine light on my PT Cruiser, I just turn the key on/off 3 times and it spits uot a trouble code where the odometer is.
The hard part is getting to what needs to be fixed under all the crap.
As for the "specialty" tools, Ford has been notorious for needing "Motorcraft tool # X" for years, even for simple repairs/routine maintenance.
-
I have a car in which I gutted all the new fangled stuff just so I could tinker with it like an old fashioned hot rod. Txmom, I understand where you are coming from. The new cars can be worked on but are put together(perhaps deliberately) in ways to discourage your averge home wrench turner. As an example: My mom's STS had a waterpump go bad. In order to replace it, you had to take the intake off..... silly.
-
I have a car in which I gutted all the new fangled stuff just so I could tinker with it like an old fashioned hot rod. Txmom, I understand where you are coming from. The new cars can be worked on but are put together(perhaps deliberately) in ways to discourage your averge home wrench turner. As an example: My mom's STS had a waterpump go bad. In order to replace it, you had to take the intake off..... silly.
know what's funny?
i took an old car, and did the opposite. i took a 1978 fairmont futura, and ripped out the 6 cyl. auto, installed a 5.0L, with the full EEC IV control system. it now runs 12's in the 1/4, cruises 70-80mph at about 24-2600rpm, and averages 22-24mpg. best part, is that although it'll never be showcar quality, it DOES look as if ford built it like that. :D
<<S>>
-
Need a new radiator on a PT cruiser (damn deer :furious)? Start taking off the bumper (then the oil cooler, tranny cooler, intercooler for turbo, then condenser) ..........
You are absolutely right, Steve.
I had no less than THREE different "silencer" mechanisms in the air intake line to "quiet down" the sound of the air intake. I want to hear the intake howl. And whats with the fairy-sounding blow off valve?
The manufacturers are definitely trying to make things less "user accessible" I don't mind as much anymore as the steel plate holding my arm together kinda precludes me from doing much wrenching these days.
And don't get me started on the "throw away" parts either. Almost had to buy a new pair of lower control arms, just to get new bushings. This was until I found an aftermarket set of urathane lower control-arm bushings and pressed them in. myself.
Most new autos = rubbish to work on.
-
Most cards today with the OBDII computers will tell you what is wrong with them.
you poor diluted fool(quote from the original batman :D)
the OBD2 system will not for the most part tell you or us in the field what exactly is wrong with your car. it steers you in the right direction. for instance, a P0401 for "insufficient EGR flow", is a very common code. would you like to tell me what's wrong with the vehicle with no further information than that please? assume oooooo.......lets see.....99 ford F250 4.6L(or 5.4L) with automatic.
<<S>>
-
My part time job in college was working at Batteries Plus. Some of the engineers for cars should be put in front of firing squads. Early 00's Sebrings, Intrepeids (I think), and some other Chrysler sedan models required you to remove the front left tire to get to the battery to replace it.
Mid-Late 90's Chevy Lumina's or Grand Prixs have the battery undernearth the washer tank.
Not a fan of Audi's/BMW/Mercedes. They like to put their batteries right up against the firewall in the center of the front end. It makes for an aching back reaching over and lifting their large batteries out.
But if a dealer/car company isn't making a lot off selling their new car to you, they're making it in maintenance.
-
My part time job in college was working at Batteries Plus. Some of the engineers for cars should be put in front of firing squads. Early 00's Sebrings, Intrepeids (I think), and some other Chrysler sedan models required you to remove the front left tire to get to the battery to replace it.
Mid-Late 90's Chevy Lumina's or Grand Prixs have the battery undernearth the washer tank.
Not a fan of Audi's/BMW/Mercedes. They like to put their batteries right up against the firewall in the center of the front end. It makes for an aching back reaching over and lifting their large batteries out.
But if a dealer/car company isn't making a lot off selling their new car to you, they're making it in maintenance.
some vw's in the pass. compartment under the rear seat. olds aurura under the rear seat too.
-
know what's funny?
i took an old car, and did the opposite. i took a 1978 fairmont futura, and ripped out the 6 cyl. auto, installed a 5.0L, with the full EEC IV control system. it now runs 12's in the 1/4, cruises 70-80mph at about 24-2600rpm, and averages 22-24mpg. best part, is that although it'll never be showcar quality, it DOES look as if ford built it like that. :D
<<S>>
Cool. With all the stuff I changed, my formerly high 13 second computer run car is now in the mid 10's and a joy to tinker on. :aok
diluted? heheheh deluded.
-
Need a new radiator on a PT cruiser (damn deer :furious)? Start taking off the bumper (then the oil cooler, tranny cooler, intercooler for turbo, then condenser) ..........
brutal
-
you poor diluted fool(quote from the original batman :D)
the OBD2 system will not for the most part tell you or us in the field what exactly is wrong with your car. it steers you in the right direction. for instance, a P0401 for "insufficient EGR flow", is a very common code. would you like to tell me what's wrong with the vehicle with no further information than that please? assume oooooo.......lets see.....99 ford F250 4.6L(or 5.4L) with automatic.
<<S>>
You are correct. It gets you in the ballpark, though. With some computer savvy, one can lookup what the codes mean. If you can't correctly diagnose the problem once you know what system the problem is in, then one should probably shut the hood and let someone who knows what they are doing take over. The car will tell you where to start looking for the problem. If one can't diagnose down to the faulty component, walk away, because you probably shouldn't be messing with it anyhow. It will only make the "real" wrench benders' life that much harder.
As for those of you "in the field" (I was until I had to be reassembled like humpty-dumpty), does your flat-rate time increase as the repairs get more complicated as the engineers make your life more miserable? Possibly, if you work for a dealer (and it's not a warranty repair) Probably not, if you work at a mom & pop garage or all-purpose repair shop. If you are paid hourly, but are not given any refreshers on the new tech. as it comes out, shame on your employer for wasting money.
The new computer stuff is only good for the new crap they add to the cars.
What happened to fuel/compression/spark and days of cars that you could climb under the hood to fix, sit on one fender and have a picnic lunch and radio sitting on the other one?
-
Cool. With all the stuff I changed, my formerly high 13 second computer run car is now in the mid 10's and a joy to tinker on. :aok
diluted? heheheh deluded.
Don't you miss actually changing something physical to make a difference? :cry
Like a cam, or set of gears in the rear. "Honey, my Dana rear and new Isky cam finally arrived!!!!!!!!" as opposed to "Oh look, an email came with a firmware upgrade for my car"
Also, don't you miss the gut-wrenching torque of say.... a 69' GTO with 400 cubic inches of raw power burning off the tread on your new Firestone redlines, or a good old fashioned Hemi Cuda breathing fire and sucking the gas down at gallons per mile. Can you remember what the exhaust smell of 102 (or higher) pump gas (not VP racing fuel, but everyday gas) was like. Like the finest perfume........
(For those of you who don;t know what I am talking about, you are too young to know what a real hot-rod is)
-
Don't you miss actually changing something physical to make a difference? :cry
Like a cam, or set of gears in the rear. "Honey, my Dana rear and new Isky cam finally arrived!!!!!!!!" as opposed to "Oh look, an email came with a firmware upgrade for my car"
Also, don't you miss the gut-wrenching torque of say.... a 69' GTO with 400 cubic inches of raw power burning off the tread on your new Firestone redlines, or a good old fashioned Hemi Cuda breathing fire and sucking the gas down at gallons per mile. Can you remember what the exhaust smell of 102 (or higher) pump gas (not VP racing fuel, but everyday gas) was like. Like the finest perfume........
(For those of you who don;t know what I am talking about, you are too young to know what a real hot-rod is)
I sure did miss those things. Until I built this:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/AZC4guy/IMG_0863.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/AZC4guy/IMG_0173.jpg)
This is my tinker toy. Built the motor from the block up, redid the tranny, put in a dana 44 and 373's, upgraded the brakes, etc. You can see the nitrous bottle in the back, just over the steering wheel. I may have made a dinosaur, but it smokes and it's fun to work on. :aok
-
but it smokes and it's fun to work on. :aok
Nuff said :aok
Carry on.
-
Cool. With all the stuff I changed, my formerly high 13 second computer run car is now in the mid 10's and a joy to tinker on. :aok
diluted? heheheh deluded.
whoops!!! :rofl
i worked the McGuire airshow this weekend. i've only had 12 or so hours sleep since thursday.
that's my best excuse! :rofl
<<S>>
-
You are correct. It gets you in the ballpark, though. With some computer savvy, one can lookup what the codes mean. If you can't correctly diagnose the problem once you know what system the problem is in, then one should probably shut the hood and let someone who knows what they are doing take over. The car will tell you where to start looking for the problem. If one can't diagnose down to the faulty component, walk away, because you probably shouldn't be messing with it anyhow. It will only make the "real" wrench benders' life that much harder.
As for those of you "in the field" (I was until I had to be reassembled like humpty-dumpty), does your flat-rate time increase as the repairs get more complicated as the engineers make your life more miserable? Possibly, if you work for a dealer (and it's not a warranty repair) Probably not, if you work at a mom & pop garage or all-purpose repair shop. If you are paid hourly, but are not given any refreshers on the new tech. as it comes out, shame on your employer for wasting money.
ya, i know what ya mean about the siompler days. unfortunatly, it's the cost of having our cake and eating it too. you probably remember the 4 cylinders of the past. 0 to 60 in the time it took to eat a good dinner. :rofl
now there's 4 cyls. that can hammer some hot rods of yesteryear. trade off is this BS. for me though this is the fun part. you can train a drunk chimp to hang brakes all day. it takes skill, and talent to diagnose, as i now believe you know. that's where i have my fun.
pay wise, when i worked for someone, i was hourly. my employers alwayse sent me to classes as needed, and sometimes before needed. i own my own shop now, so i don't get paid anymore! :rofl :rofl
seriously, i hate flat rate from both sides. i will never pay that way unless i'm punishing pooor performance. i never did work that way, as 90% of the time, if you do the job right, you don't make out. flat rate is an incentive for shoddy work.
<<S>>
The new computer stuff is only good for the new crap they add to the cars.
What happened to fuel/compression/spark and days of cars that you could climb under the hood to fix, sit on one fender and have a picnic lunch and radio sitting on the other one?
-
The codes are nice. Pull in to Autozone, have them check it with their handheld scanner (usually free), it tells you exactly what's wrong. My poor, dead 4Runner had a check engine light come on. Punched the code, told me misfire on #6 cylinder, so I spent 20 minutes replacing the plugs & coil packs. Problem solved. It took longer to get the air box unhooked from the throttle body than to actually diagnose the problem.
-
Most cards today with the OBDII computers will tell you what is wrong with them...The hard part is getting to what needs to be fixed under all the crap.
Exactly! TxDad didn't need the computer to tell him what was wrong, but there was just no way to get into the engine & change the part out. That's got to be by design for the benefit of those other than the owner.
-
Exactly! TxDad didn't need the computer to tell him what was wrong, but there was just no way to get into the engine & change the part out. That's got to be by design for the benefit of those other than the owner.
It's usually some engineer sitting at a computer running Pro-E or Solidworks, etc.
Sittin there scratching his head and wondering where he can shoehorn the next component in at.
I will speak for all mechanics, pro and home-style....
We can show the engineers where to shove it sometimes :rofl
-
Most cards today with the OBDII computers will tell you what is wrong with them.
For example, if I get a check engine light on my PT Cruiser, I just turn the key on/off 3 times and it spits uot a trouble code where the odometer is.
The hard part is getting to what needs to be fixed under all the crap.
As for the "specialty" tools, Ford has been notorious for needing "Motorcraft tool # X" for years, even for simple repairs/routine maintenance.
Would that work for a 97 Jeep wrangler?
-
The codes are nice.
They are nice, for the ignorant masses, no question. I can listen to my car and tell you what's wrong. *shrug*
-
They are nice, for the ignorant masses, no question. I can listen to my car and tell you what's wrong. *shrug*
But ya just cant tell how far it is from a bay door, right??? *Ducks and Runs* (Bad joke, i know...)
-
I sure did miss those things. Until I built this:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/AZC4guy/IMG_0863.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/AZC4guy/IMG_0173.jpg)
This is my tinker toy. Built the motor from the block up, redid the tranny, put in a dana 44 and 373's, upgraded the brakes, etc. You can see the nitrous bottle in the back, just over the steering wheel. I may have made a dinosaur, but it smokes and it's fun to work on. :aok
Needs silver or chrome rims and a carwash :P
-
But ya just cant tell how far it is from a bay door, right??? *Ducks and Runs* (Bad joke, i know...)
:lol :aok
-
Most cards today with the OBDII computers will tell you what is wrong with them.
For example, if I get a check engine light on my PT Cruiser, I just turn the key on/off 3 times and it spits uot a trouble code where the odometer is.
I was getting my 1962 Duoglide inspected the other day (annual required in VA) --It has a foot clutch, so noone at dealership has a clue as to how to ride it, so they just drag it behind the big door, and make sure brake light comes on with foot brake, then they complain about the 'blue dot' on the tail light--(was factory then, I always point out), . As I pass time on the picnic table waiting for them to pass the thing, I notice 3-4 fellows taking their new Evo's in for oil changes, etc (PAYING someone to change your BIKE oil? pu$$***) Anyhow, this one yuppie in particular complains how his seems to hesitate on accel , etc, and it has an annoying rattle (cant fix a RATTLE on a BIKE? pu$$***) The mechanic says he will have to put his dyna-whatever-it-is on the comPUTER to see whats wrong with it, and to come back in a few hours....Put a BIKE on a COMPUTER? Even HARLEY makes a bike so complicated ya need a COMPUTER to fix it? <insert 'good ol days' here> I keep 2 sets box wrenches--in case nut/bolt need attention at same time (ENGlish), a BIG wrench, in case rear wheel needs adjust, 2 plugs, 1 pair pliers, and a master link. Nothing else is required to service an older vehicle....now ya need @#$$@##$@ a Dell in your saddle bag...sigh(http://chat.anncoulter.com/phpBB2/images/smiles/081.gif)
-
Needs silver or chrome rims and a carwash :P
heheh I think it was clean in those pics.... everyone has chrome rims, I like the black ones... although I'm considering black chrome or even straight chrome for my next set. Those rims are 17's and for whatever reason, there aren't many 315 35 17 tires out there anymore. I'll have to switch to 18's I fear.
-
you poor diluted fool(quote from the original batman :D)
the OBD2 system will not for the most part tell you or us in the field what exactly is wrong with your car. it steers you in the right direction. for instance, a P0401 for "insufficient EGR flow", is a very common code. would you like to tell me what's wrong with the vehicle with no further information than that please? assume oooooo.......lets see.....99 ford F250 4.6L(or 5.4L) with automatic.
<<S>>
UMM.....sounds like a problem with the muffler bearing. :noid
NOT
-
But ya just cant tell how far it is from a bay door, right??? *Ducks and Runs* (Bad joke, i know...)
OOOOOOOOOO MANNNNN........NOW YA DUN WENT AND DONE IT@!!!!!!
-
UMM.....sounds like a problem with the muffler bearing. :noid
NOT
:rofl :rofl :rofl
-
The codes are nice. Pull in to Autozone, have them check it with their handheld scanner (usually free), it tells you exactly what's wrong. My poor, dead 4Runner had a check engine light come on. Punched the code, told me misfire on #6 cylinder, so I spent 20 minutes replacing the plugs & coil packs. Problem solved. It took longer to get the air box unhooked from the throttle body than to actually diagnose the problem.
PULL INTO AUTOZONE, HUH?
i had a ford explorer the other week. the guy went to autozone, and they pulled a code P0121. that's for lean condition if i recall, bank one. they told him it needed the upstream o2 sensor. he came to me, and requested that o2 sensor. i offered to diagnose it for him. he refused. he told me the autozone story. i offered again, knowing just how smart they are there. he refused. so i made sure he knew that if i put it in, and the CEL came back on, and had the same code, it would not be warrantied unless the o2 i put in was bad. it came on 3 days later. this time he let me diagnose it. it had a vacuum leak.
moral here? although i know you all(especially those of you that don't understand cars) don't like to pay for diagnosis, and i know there's still lots of dishonest mechanics out there, and i know money is tight right now, but if you don't already have a reputaable shop, find one, and trust them. if you like to tinker yourself, then by all means, please do. i love being able to charge extra for that. :rofl seriously though, i don't really care how/where you get the work done. i AM however, proud of what i do, and take great pride in my work, as i'm sure a lot of you tech/mechanics do. i also get annoyed just like you all do, when i cut up my arm trying to change that last plug on the rear bank of that 3.3L towne and country. but this is what it costs to have our cake and eat it too. we want pretty cars, that go really fast, and get good gas mileage. the govt., wants to clean up the air. so we now have engines that are really only 20%-30% effecient, but they have management systems on them, that help them run cleaner and better. we've really only masked the problem for the last 30 years of emmission controls. steve built an awsome engine by going backwards, and doing it old style.(BTW, i love the scoops on your vette dude!) a 10 second street cars is awsome. but a 12 second street car that gets over 22 mpg, and will start on the first try in 0 degree weather, and drive perfectly civily is a tad better. chevy i think had the camaros running 12's out of the factory, just before they discontinued them.
anyway, i'm tired......
<<S>>
-
Speaking of getting to that last plug in the rear......
My favorite (NOT) was our old Grand Am GT ('95 or so? cant remember) I'm sure it's not the only GM to use this technique, but to get to the rear plugs, one would remove the "dog bone" engine mount in the front, put a 1/2" breaker bar on the engine side of same mount, and actually pull back until the engine tilted towards you enough to reach them :eek:
Favorite car to work on has to be early 90's Saturns. Everything went together like Lego's. Even changing body panels was a snap, literally.
-
Would that work for a 97 Jeep wrangler?
There is a similer way to get the Dash read out to throw a code on a TJ (97 was the first TJ).
Here is what I found over at http://www.rubiconownersforum.com
Getting the codes All Chrysler vehicles with fuel injection have had some form of "error checking." In many older vehicles, a person could easily turn the key back and forth a few times to get a two-digit code. With the PT Cruiser, a longer code seems to be used. In addition, as with all vehicles sold in the United States, the system is OBDCIII compatible, so that a standard diagnostic device can be plugged into a standard jack to get computer codes.
When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased.
Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works.
The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems.
NOTE
To get the codes, put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number, then show the error codes starting with P.
Here's the old method which may work if the first one doesn't: move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. This could be frustrating since they sometimes seemed to pause in the wrong place...
You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools.
The codes and what they meanNot all codes are relevant to the every veh.
Codes may start with a "P" in your odometer.
-
They are nice, for the ignorant masses, no question. I can listen to my car and tell you what's wrong. *shrug*
I can do that for PCs, but not engines. Not my cup of tea. I don't even like to work on my own cars, nor will probably even own one without a warranty again... but I used to sound like you when I did tech support. Arrogant and salamanderly. :lol
and Cap, I actually have mechanics I can trust implicitly... it's the service writers that are out to hose you. :noid
-
Speaking of getting to that last plug in the rear......
My favorite (NOT) was our old Grand Am GT ('95 or so? cant remember) I'm sure it's not the only GM to use this technique, but to get to the rear plugs, one would remove the "dog bone" engine mount in the front, put a 1/2" breaker bar on the engine side of same mount, and actually pull back until the engine tilted towards you enough to reach them :eek:
Favorite car to work on has to be early 90's Saturns. Everything went together like Lego's. Even changing body panels was a snap, literally.
it wasn't the only one. mopst of that body of gm's wth the 3800, 3100 series engines you need to do that.
-
I can do that for PCs, but not engines. Not my cup of tea. I don't even like to work on my own cars, nor will probably even own one without a warranty again... but I used to sound like you when I did tech support. Arrogant and hootly. :lol
and Cap, I actually have mechanics I can trust implicitly... it's the service writers that are out to hose you. :noid
ya, you're right. especially if they're on comission.
-
I worked at a local garage once, where the service writer was a complete idiot. (surprise, surprise)
His standing rule was that EVERY vehicle that rolled into to bay WILL be written up for SOMETHING.
Yes, most cars could use a wiper blade, oil change, etc, but he was a complete nazi about it to the point where he would try to report the newer/younger guys for insubordination if the put in a clean ticket.
This, from the same guy who wanted me to pass his buddy's car for PA State inspection even though it was "questionable" I had cut the rotors(another standing rule regardless of condition) when I changed the brakes. The final size was under specs by about .010. I told him "Sorry, can't do it. You are the Service Writer, but it's MY license." I told him to "slide it through this one time". As he was originally from one of our Jersey stores, he didn't have an inspection license for the Commonwealth of PA.
I told him "Sorry about your luck, but I am not going to do it" He then tried to get me in hot water with management for "insubordination" until the truth came out.
They transferred him to some crap-hole store in SW Philly after that one. :rofl
-
Yesterday I burned myself on both arms installing camber adjusting shims in a Ford RTV ute :mad:
I absolutely hate it when I have to make adjustments to vehicles while they are still hot. :furious
-
Most of the dodads & thingamabobs y'all were talking about went over my head... but I got the jist of it. On the way to go pick up the vehicle from it's teeny (costly) repair.
Frankly, I don't care one way or another if it gets done in our own garage or the dealers garage. I don't do it either way. But it means a great bit to TxDad, so I'm all for whatever he wants. We'll have to keep the vehicle, since it serves a useful purpose that another vehicle couldn't serve. Bummer.
*edit*
SD, hope your arms heal well. Ouch!
-
There is a similer way to get the Dash read out to throw a code on a TJ (97 was the first TJ).
Here is what I found over at http://www.rubiconownersforum.com
Excellent! Thanks GT!
I too am in the same boat where my CEL has come on, but I have no money to do anything about it. Perhaps in 2 more weeks, but not now.
-
Excellent! Thanks GT!
I too am in the same boat where my CEL has come on, but I have no money to do anything about it. Perhaps in 2 more weeks, but not now.
The forum I linked has some really savy guys, if you figure out the codes, they could tell you what to do about them.
I have been driving my truck around with a CEL light, but its just for the smog toejam, and It runs fine.
I will fix it just before I have to smog it.
The jeep has been trouble free and turns 3 years old in a month.
-
Yesterday I burned myself on both arms installing camber adjusting shims in a Ford RTV ute :mad:
I absolutely hate it when I have to make adjustments to vehicles while they are still hot. :furious
they make hot sleeves for that. :D
-
There is a similer way to get the Dash read out to throw a code on a TJ (97 was the first TJ).
Here is what I found over at http://www.rubiconownersforum.com
Problem. I did the first thing, and it started to scroll through the numbers 000 to 111 to 222... But after it got to 999 it went straight to my mileage.
Was I doing something wrong?
-
This does bring up a point. My father used to tinker with an old mini he had back when he was a teen in England. I think he managed to tinker with it so much he got it up to about 300hp and he did all himself. Now my mother has just bought a new Mini Cooper S. He took a look at the engine and he stated he couldn't even get his hand in their without moving the whole block pretty much. (Not to mention those damn run flats costing great deals of money.)
-
My 2005 Chrysler 300C you can't even check the transmission oil there is no dip stick, it has to go to the dealer to be checked.
-
Most new autos are like that. Most decent mechanics can check it for you.