Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Technical Support => Topic started by: Banshee7 on October 04, 2008, 08:08:28 PM
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Ok guys,
I have the regular X52. I've had it for about 7 months. I've had this problem since i bought it. So, I went out and bought a $30 External powered USB hub...no help at all. I'm still losing calibration a lot (often in the middle of fights :mad:). Does anyone have a solution to my problem or anything that would be of help. Thanks in advance!
Banshee7
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First are you using Siatek Software? If so check for updates. 2nd. Rename the JSM file & recalibrate in Windows & Aces High. This may solve your problem. :noid :salute
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If the USB port is overloaded and being reset by the hardware, it could cause this issue as well.
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You're not alone Banshee. Mine went the same path and it seems to be the way with a lot of Saitek sticks. As for suggestions, are your drivers up to date? Here's a link to the Saitek forum site
http://www.saitekforum.com/
Best of luck.
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Ok bare with me with the solution..
Used to play Nascar sims. Our wheels HAD TO BE CALIBRATED WITHIN THE SOFTWARE 1ST THE CALIBRATED IN GAME. There was a huge difference in lap times with uncalibrated wheels or whells only calibrated in game.
When I started aces high, I used the same theory. When I didn't, I had a problem locking on target and getting accurate shot at times. So, When I start aces high, I get in the air. I then minimize the game and load my saitek profiler. Next I calibrate it on my screen and leave proiler on. I then re-enter game and do an in game calibration. I go through every range of motion including rudder and throttle. My X52 is crisp and perfect all the time when I do this.
Others I know had the same problem. They use this technique/theory and it works for them also.
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His problem doesn't occur when he enters AH, it occurs while he's flying. To me it sounds that he starts flying without any issues from his stick, then while in-flight the stick calibration wigs out. This shouldn't be happening, considering I've flown in both AH and FS2004 for almost a year now without ever having to calibrate the stick. (I don't use the SST Programming software.)
Drdeath, did your friends encounter the same problem and your method resolved the issue?
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Denholm I never said it was a problem when he entered game. Read Read Read. I helped about 6 guys with this exact problem and yes they had the same problem.
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Does windows plays a sound when you plug USB hardware in your PC ?
If no, activate the sound, and see if windows plays it prior to loosing calibration ingame. The point is to see if the USB ports are being reseted somehow as Skuzzy says.
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I have had the same problem it was driving me nuts... I just use windows drivers.. works great and I have not had a problem since.. Granted there are some functions I cant use like the wheels.. but I never used them anyhow.. I have tried powered usb hub, new drivers and a patch still didn't work.. Try it worst thing that can happen is it works.. :D
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I've had same problem with stick calibrations on my x52. I noticed though the stick's lights would on occassion go buggy for a split second before the sticks calibration went out. While I think it's just simpley a lose connection between the throttle and the main stick, it's simpley rectified by unplugging the main stick from the throttle and plugging her back in.
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I'm bringing this back up again, but it realy dosn't give me the answer that I am looking for. Yes, I got an X52 two days ago and it looses calibration al by itself. I guess its a common ocurance to them, but I realy don't know how to fix it. The thing I noticed is that when you pull back to the right back, twords yourself, it loses calibration. That's the only place were it loses calibration.
Any way to fix it, I guess it has to do with an overloaded USB port, but is there any way to fix that?
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We were kicking around in another thread that seemed to help some people, turn off both the LED's and MFD lights on the theory that it reduces the voltage needed. Let us know.
PS I use the std windows drivers and no SST software 3 years plus never have had this problem. Never had the lights on and this spans 2 mother boards with different USB ports so just a thought.
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Ok bare with me with the solution..
Used to play Nascar sims. Our wheels HAD TO BE CALIBRATED WITHIN THE SOFTWARE 1ST THE CALIBRATED IN GAME. There was a huge difference in lap times with uncalibrated wheels or whells only calibrated in game.
When I started aces high, I used the same theory. When I didn't, I had a problem locking on target and getting accurate shot at times. So, When I start aces high, I get in the air. I then minimize the game and load my saitek profiler. Next I calibrate it on my screen and leave proiler on. I then re-enter game and do an in game calibration. I go through every range of motion including rudder and throttle. My X52 is crisp and perfect all the time when I do this.
Others I know had the same problem. They use this technique/theory and it works for them also.
Again.... Try calibrating in windows mode(profiler) then calibrate in game. A few others had same problem and this fixed it. I do not know the reason it worked but it did.
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I've had the same problem: during a fight, stick wigs out badly and I can barely keep airborne. Tried a powered usb (and turned off blue lights) but problem came back. Last time I flew, it went crazy again mid-flight and I noticed the cable between the stick and throttle was loose (like SEseph). Plugged it back in and problem solved. I think. :pray
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I flew about 4 hours today, and so far, no problems. Going on shortly for another 6 hours, see what happens.
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I wish I could the instructions that I had from the Saitek website. It told of how to uninstall the drivers, what files to search for and delete and what registry entrys to delete.
Everytime you unplug and replug and you get the windows message "Found new Hardware" it creates another registry entry.
Part of the original Saitek fix was to cleanup but also to cleanout the confusion in the registry. I think I still have a Saitek website user name and password. I'll see if I can find the text.
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Hungry,I tried what you are speaking of,and it did not work for me..but it may work for you..
Just unplug the JS from the throttle,not the whole thing..wait maybe 30 seconds,then plug it back in...
falcon23
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Well I just spent about an hour and a half searching the Saitek boards and cant find the instructions. I found everything from Logitech mouse driver conflicts to dont install the SST that installs the magic mouse on the stick.
!!!! So as I was writing the above I thought of one other place that I might have it, on my external backup drive. This was plucked from the Saitek site awhile ago.
PLEASE BACKUP YOUR REGISTRY FIRST!!
Your problem is your registry.
In some cases, the calibration for the controller may be off. This may be an issue with a corrupted initial calibration of the controller. The following instructions involve changes to the Windows Registry. The registry is a very sensitive part of Windows and removing or editing the wrong value can cause a multitude of problems. See about making a backup of the registry before proceeding. In case you screw up! Do the following at your own risk! But this worked for me and within ten minutes my x52 was working. click Start, and Run. Type in "regedit".
-You must unplug your stick first
- click on the plus sign next to " HKEY_LOCAL_machine"
- click on the plus sign next to "System"
- click on the plus sign next to "Current ControlSet"
- click on the plus sign next to "Control"
- click on the plus sign next to "MediaProperties"
- click on the plus sign next to "Privateproperties"
- click on the plus sign next to "DirectInput"
- Look for keys starting with VID_06A3 and delete them.
- Close the registry editor by clicking on Registry at the top then click exit.
- Reboot your machine.
-Recalibrate the controller by twisting the joystick, then rotate it around several times.
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I cant seem to find how to make a copy of the original
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Well I just spent about an hour and a half searching the Saitek boards and cant find the instructions. I found everything from Logitech mouse driver conflicts to dont install the SST that installs the magic mouse on the stick.
!!!! So as I was writing the above I thought of one other place that I might have it, on my external backup drive. This was plucked from the Saitek site awhile ago.
PLEASE BACKUP YOUR REGISTRY FIRST!!
Your problem is your registry.
In some cases, the calibration for the controller may be off. This may be an issue with a corrupted initial calibration of the controller. The following instructions involve changes to the Windows Registry. The registry is a very sensitive part of Windows and removing or editing the wrong value can cause a multitude of problems. See about making a backup of the registry before proceeding. In case you screw up! Do the following at your own risk! But this worked for me and within ten minutes my x52 was working. click Start, and Run. Type in "regedit".
-You must unplug your stick first
- click on the plus sign next to " HKEY_LOCAL_machine"
- click on the plus sign next to "System"
- click on the plus sign next to "Current ControlSet"
- click on the plus sign next to "Control"
- click on the plus sign next to "MediaProperties"
- click on the plus sign next to "Privateproperties"
- click on the plus sign next to "DirectInput"
- Look for keys starting with VID_06A3 and delete them.
- Close the registry editor by clicking on Registry at the top then click exit.
- Reboot your machine.
-Recalibrate the controller by twisting the joystick, then rotate it around several times.
Hungry i friggin love you! This fixed my Z rotation (twist) which hasn't worked since i got the stick. IDK about the calibration part, but this has definitely made my day!
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Excellent Bub!!
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but...now i have to re-learn using twisty
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How is it you use the profiler to actually calibrate the joystick?
Mine just has all the buttons etc and they light up when I click on them. But there's no "Calibrate" option or anything.
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You dont its supposed to self calibrate thats what those registry entrys were above
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still losing calibration :( Im gonna turn LEDS and MFD off
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I went through similar incremental increase of problems Y-axis calibration after first month till 5 months of ownership,and found myself unplugging this cable or that one to get it back to dead bang during AH play after it went out of calibration. Brought it back after store warranty to Circuit City who kindly took it back after store warranty. New stick is error free after 3 months. Saitek I recall has a 2 year on X52 non pro HOTAS, maybe 3 years on X52Pro. It might do you you good in the long run to get another stick, or notify Satiek for future return.
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See Rule #4
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ive got an x52 pro it used to do it all the time
the conections at the back are laughable for a $200 stick it should be securable
but it was a slight lapse in connection between the throttle and stick not enough for windows to reconise it because the throttle is still connected to the computer so according to windows everything was fine
the reason why calibration went out is the same as joystick pretty much ever made
when the stick is reconnected
the state that it is in is at the time of reconnection is considered neutral
or example you get you evade an enemy attack and jerk the stick fast to get the desired result but during this the cable into the stick momentarily loses connection to the throttle/computer
so at the time of stick reconnection its rolled hard left and full right rudder so that position is considered neutral even though it is not
it happens to any joystick that is not 100% centered at the time of activation ie reconnection /loading of operation system
my nintendo 64 analog thingy did it if you turned it on not centered
my playstation did it if you turned it on not centered
my old attack 3 did it
but the x52 are prone to do it ingame due to the soft connection into the stick
a bit of hot glue and gaffer tape problem solved
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See Rule #4
Going through that isn't what I would call flawless. The point here is that you shouldn't have to do this every time that you enter the game, I don't haven't had to in the three years that Ive had my X52. The only problems Ive ever had were when I was trying to use the SST software and the magic mouse on the throttle. Once I completely removed the SST and the registry entries above Ive never had to recalibrate it again.
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All of my X52 problems were solved by giving it enough consistant power. Buy a powered USB hub to get the most out of the joystick.
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All of my X52 problems were solved by giving it enough consistant power. Buy a powered USB hub to get the most out of the joystick.
have one...not helping
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Banshee I went down the same road. Apparently USB power hubs vary in output. You want a constant 5.0 v input. Belkin seems to be the hub of choice. I used a GE hub and it made things worse.
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Going through that isn't what I would call flawless. The point here is that you shouldn't have to do this every time that you enter the game, I don't haven't had to in the three years that Ive had my X52. The only problems Ive ever had were when I was trying to use the SST software and the magic mouse on the throttle. Once I completely removed the SST and the registry entries above Ive never had to recalibrate it again.
Not the answer to my question. Like I asked, anybody try it?
My stick works fine with in game calibration. I still chose to do both.
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have one...not helping
Like Max said... I was going to ask about your hub too. By powered hub we mean a hub that has a transformer pack that plugs into the wall for 110v as well as plugs into the computer. Some hubs just plug into the computer and use the power from the computer power supply which really doesn't do anything but give you more USB ports to plug into. I too have a Belkin powered hub, but mine is for my CH set. All three (stick, throttle, and pedals) are plugged into it as well as the cable for my camera. A steady 5 volts is what you need today to run these hi-tech sticks and such.
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The originator of this thread(Banshee) already bought a external powerd USB hub and still has the problem.. I am curious if Banshee or anyone actually tried windows calibration just to see if they had any results.
Like I mentioned earlier, in Nascar sims, our controllers worked "OK" with no windows calibration. We did some experimentaion with the logitech profiler. Aces High really has no "Measuring Stick" to see if a "Pre-Windows" calibration actually makes and difference if any. There is no "Reason To The Rhyme" here.
With Nascar Sims we noticed a few things:
- Controller would not lose calibration
- Lap times decreased dramatically
We actually had a measuring stick with lap times. On some tracks it was as much as .5 seconds. We also noticed a few more things. We held the yellow line much smoother which probably related to quicker lap times. Also, on Super Speedways such as Daytona and Talledega, bump drafting behind another car was at least 15% smoother which again, helped lap times.
I run a Saitek X52 and when I started playing sometimes I could not get an accurate calibration(plane shakey and having a hard time aiming) in game so I decided to calibrate with my Saitek Profiler and calibrate in game. Boom perfection. I was running an old Athalon 3000 at the time with 300W PSU so maybey it was USB hub?? I do not know but the theory worked. I still do it with my new computer and swear by it.
I recommended this to about 10 guys and they used the technique or theory and it worked perfect for them. So in end, before recommending a USB HUB try the windows calibration and in game. It looks like others have this problem by reading the responses. Banshee bought a USB hub and still has the problem. As far as registration entries, this is the first I have heard of it. I am running original drivers that came with X52. It seems this would be the easiest thing to try before goin to spend more money.
I calibrate in game alone and my computer/game works fine. It is not like most of us have to calibrate in windows, I just have been doing it for years with all my various controllers.
Please give it a try.
Death
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yes i have an externally powered hub. And no...i can't calibrate in windows. There is not an option ANYwhere that I can find for calibrating my X52 in windows....I was very confused as to why not; there was always an option to calibrate in windows with my older sticks
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Bansheroo, there is a profiler that comes with Saitek software. You may not have installed it. Keep a look here I will find it as I am at work. Should not take more than a few minutes. Knucklehead, I told you over a year ago to do this. I bet it will remedy your problem.
Death
BRB
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Bansheroo, there is a profiler that comes with Saitek software. You may not have installed it. Keep a look here I will find it as I am at work. Should not take more than a few minutes. Knucklehead, I told you over a year ago to do this. I bet it will remedy your problem.
Death
BRB
i havent even had the stick but for 9 months :P
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Close to a year lol... here is link:
http://www.saitek.com/uk/down/drivers.php
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banshee,...programs/saitek/control panel. this is were you turn off led's and calibrate in windows.
I told you about the hub,reread what "Max" said!!! and check hub specs.
Looks like I need a better hub aswell,still having issues booting with it plugged in..... :uhoh
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I wonder if a pci USB port card would help this issue???
Falcon23
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I wonder if a pci USB port card would help this issue???
Falcon23
I wouldn't think so. Your adding more ports, but not any more power. If the lack of power is the issue, then it will still be there.
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It's quite funny.I suggested using Saitek software(control panel) and Banshee has yet to try it. It works. You guys keep insisting it is USB hub. The control panel "Theory" is easy and quick. When troubleshooting computer issues, it is wise to try easiest and painless ideas 1st. By no means am I suggesting this is the solution. Just give it a run.
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It's quite funny.I suggested using Saitek software(control panel) and Banshee has yet to try it. It works. You guys keep insisting it is USB hub. The control panel "Theory" is easy and quick. When troubleshooting computer issues, it is wise to try easiest and painless ideas 1st. By no means am I suggesting this is the solution. Just give it a run.
I was discussing hubs because most of the time that is the problem. I asked for more clarification on Banshees hub because I wanted to make sure it is a powered hub, because the do make non-powered hubs to.... which are cheaper and more likely are bought for that reason. Falcon asked about a hub card for a PCI slot, so I answered him as to what I thought would be a problem with that.
As to why Banshee won't try your suggestion, I don't know. I do know I won't try anything you suggested with out doing a lot more research. Too many times you have given incorrect information out for me to believe anything you write.
Finally, what you suggest is NOT a solution to the problem, but a work around. You can get around the problem by doing a laundry list of things each time you log on. Finding a solution means to fix it once and your done. Many people here use the X52 without a problem, what Banshee has to do is figure out what is different between his system and these others that work well.
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what Banshee has to do is figure out what is different between his system and these others that work well.
Well...my system is a completely stock "out of the box" 7 year old Dell :D
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Well...my system is a completely stock "out of the box" 7 year old Dell :D
which powered hub are you using?
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CyberPower...not sure if its anything else other than that
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which powered hub are you using?
you use CH i have a question for you. i just got my CH set up for Xmas. however my throttle looses calibration everytime i log on. i have to recalibrate everytime. any ideas on what might be wrong or something i might have done wrong?
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The best fix for all these problems with Saitex gear is to simply throw that crap in the trash and buy all new CH gear. It's what I did and I haven't regretted it for a second. :)
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CyberPower...not sure if its anything else other than that
I did a quick search and of the three I found one one of the has a plug to plug it into the wall for power. The other two have jacks that you can get a power cable for, or use a set of batteries. Is your hub plugged into the wall?
you use CH i have a question for you. i just got my CH set up for Xmas. however my throttle looses calibration everytime i log on. i have to recalibrate everytime. any ideas on what might be wrong or something i might have done wrong?
Kilz does it loose calibration in windows too? I know when I first set mine up with a Hub (you must use a powered hub for the CH gear to plug in to) I had to basically go through the "install" process a couple of times.... you know the "windows has found a new USB device" crap. After that I havn't calibrated my stuff in months.
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I also have cyberpower..Causes my x52 to bluescreen...
Falcon23
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I did a quick search and of the three I found one one of the has a plug to plug it into the wall for power. The other two have jacks that you can get a power cable for, or use a set of batteries. Is your hub plugged into the wall?
Kilz does it loose calibration in windows too? I know when I first set mine up with a Hub (you must use a powered hub for the CH gear to plug in to) I had to basically go through the "install" process a couple of times.... you know the "windows has found a new USB device" crap. After that I havn't calibrated my stuff in months.
just like today i logged in and had no throttle then i got it to work but would not go full throttle. do i need to just uninstall it and reinstall it?
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X52 hotas with ch pro peds - all into powered hubs - using AH programming inside the game - no problems here
first thing I do in AH is calibrate - all the axis including the rotors which are setup for trims
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just like today i logged in and had no throttle then i got it to work but would not go full throttle. do i need to just uninstall it and reinstall it?
First thing I would do is ALT TAB out of the game when I find it not working and check the game controllers to see if first windows sees it, and how it works there.
I think a reinstall may help. Unplug the throttle, reboot the computer, then plug the throttle back in. Let windows do it think again.
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I did a quick search and of the three I found one one of the has a plug to plug it into the wall for power. The other two have jacks that you can get a power cable for, or use a set of batteries. Is your hub plugged into the wall?
Yes I have the one that plugs into the wall
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First thing I would do is ALT TAB out of the game when I find it not working and check the game controllers to see if first windows sees it, and how it works there.
I think a reinstall may help. Unplug the throttle, reboot the computer, then plug the throttle back in. Let windows do it think again.
found the problem
1st i needed to take feet off of pedal brakes that i set up on pedals DUH
2nd i had the throttle set with invert clicked, so throttle full up was actually throttle down DUH again thanks for the help