Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: oakranger on December 17, 2009, 02:20:54 PM
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Has any of you guys ever used this oil product? Great stuff. A while back i would drive to my work location, 260 miles, on Sunday and come home on Friday for over a 1 1/2 years. What i did was mixed 50% oil and 50% lucas oil in the 1988, 160,000 miles, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. that engine ran perfectly. now i have a 2000 jeep Cherokee and notice my transmission slipping. i add the Lucas Transmission Fix and my transmission no longer slips and runs smooth.
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Right now I'm using Mobil1 high mileage 10-40 in my Neon...I have noticed a sticky lifter soooo...I'm thinking I might give Lucas oil a shot on the next oil change. If the transmission additive works good I'll do that too.
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Lucas Oil does what it says. I use it in all my vehicles. I've never had any mechanical problems in any vehicles i own. It's not just for old cars or hi mileage either. Extend the life of your newer vehicle and give it some Lucas every other oil change.
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Has any of you guys ever used this oil product? Great stuff. A while back i would drive to my work location, 260 miles, on Sunday and come home on Friday for over a 1 1/2 years. What i did was mixed 50% oil and 50% lucas oil in the 1988, 160,000 miles, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. that engine ran perfectly. now i have a 2000 jeep Cherokee and notice my transmission slipping. i add the Lucas Transmission Fix and my transmission no longer slips and runs smooth.
i used a cap full of brake fluid in my c-6 in my old f-250. worked for 3 years. :D
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I use it in my Ford F150 FX4, and my engine and tranny in my wakeboard boat, its good stuff.
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I can guarantee that if Penzoil was better with whatever Lucas Oil is, Penzoil would put it in their motor oil. Call me a slave to the manufacturer, but I only use Motorcraft parts in my F-250, and exactly what they call out for the assorted fluids...
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I can guarantee that if Penzoil was better with whatever Lucas Oil is, Penzoil would put it in their motor oil. Call me a slave to the manufacturer, but I only use Motorcraft parts in my F-250, and exactly what they call out for the assorted fluids...
to the best of my knowledge, ford doesn't make those parts.
same goes for pretty much any parts that one could buy for any car.
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Lucas makes great products. I used to carry a jug of their gear oil with me when I drove cross country. It never failed I'd be assigned to hook onto a trailer that had a bad wheel seal or dry hub.
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to the best of my knowledge, ford doesn't make those parts.
same goes for pretty much any parts that one could buy for any car.
Correct. They are Ford's Auto Parts Division only. IIRC, the FTC didn't look kindly on FoMoCo buying Autolite and pulled the old "Anti-Trust" on em in the 50's. :)
Motorcraft does NOT make their own parts. They are made by other companies, for the Motorcraft name.
As for Filters (Air and Oil), I'll only use Wix (for my Jeep and our Mercury's).
EDIT: Stoney, Wix have always had better Oil Pressure results regardless of my AMC304 or 3.0L, 2.3L Ford engines. Might be something you consider for the future. I've tried them all and I found both Fram and Motorcraft to be sub-par.
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Correct. They are Ford's Auto Parts Division only. IIRC, the FTC didn't look kindly on FoMoCo buying Autolite and pulled the old "Anti-Trust" on em in the 50's. :)
Motorcraft does NOT make their own parts. They are made by other companies, for the Motorcraft name.
As for Filters (Air and Oil), I'll only use Wix (for my Jeep and our Mercury's).
EDIT: Stoney, Wix have always had better Oil Pressure results regardless of my AMC304 or 3.0L, 2.3L Ford engines. Might be something you consider for the future. I've tried them all and I found both Fram and Motorcraft to be sub-par.
i've done best with valvoline in my 289's and 5.0L's.
the shop race car, we used pennzoil in.
ya////as for OE parts. i laugh to myself when the guy with the toyota comes in and asks me if i use original toyota parts on his car.
i tell him that i use BETTER, then explain to him how all of the OE's farm those things out.
there are often differences though. honda uses bosch to make their o2 sensors. yet, if i buy a bosch o2 sensor for that honda, from napa, i'm pretty much guaranteed to get a CEL. order it from honda, they look identical, right down to the vanes in the nipple....but no CEL.
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Right now I'm using Mobil1 high mileage 10-40 in my Neon...I have noticed a sticky lifter soooo...I'm thinking I might give Lucas oil a shot on the next oil change. If the transmission additive works good I'll do that too.
It will work. you will notice it right away. i kept noticing my tran slipping on me. Checked my flu level, it was full, and have that red color, so there was no burning. So i added the lucas trans flu and wow, great results. I used a little less RPMs too.
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I've done best with valvoline in my 289's and 5.0L's.
I ran Rotella T (which I consider the best compression engine oil on the market) in my '89 F-250, it leaked like a sieve around the rings and seals. I switched to Dello and it stopped on the first change.
Havoline used to make a great oil. But, I've run Valvoline in my gas engines since the late '80's and have no complaints. I use the high mileage synth blend in my '02 Dodge. IMHO, Pennzoil and Quaker State are for chumps.
If I was going to run under race conditions, I'd use Lucas or Mystic.
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Is that something like Militec? I use that one an old tractor engine. Before there was something named FX-1.
Super lube, both of them. On a diesel, on may have to re-adjust the oil feeding, since the rpm will go a little up.
Never heard of Lucas oil, so I'm all ears.
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i use lucas and shell rotella t in my 2005 cummins isx 600 turned up to 925. i change the oil every 20,000 miles or 30 days. oil analysis shows no abnormal wear after 875,000 miles. if it works pulling 40 tons it should work great in your car.
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EDIT: Stoney, Wix have always had better Oil Pressure results regardless of my AMC304 or 3.0L, 2.3L Ford engines. Might be something you consider for the future. I've tried them all and I found both Fram and Motorcraft to be sub-par.
No, I know other manufacturers make the parts that have Motorcraft stamped on 'em. My point was just that whatever the manufacturer calls for is what I will use and that the motor oil business is so competitive that if any of the manufacturers could gain an advantage through using whatever is in Lucas Oil products, they would. Since Ford doesn't call for Lucas Oil products, I wouldn't use them. Kind of like "4 electrode" spark plugs--wouldn't use them either.
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I just rebuilt a 4.6 L out of a 98 Ford F150 and Lucas was my break in oil . That's some good stuff !! BUT , Zmax is better !
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Zmax? Is that another product you used for oil.
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Gas and oil .
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No, I know other manufacturers make the parts that have Motorcraft stamped on 'em. My point was just that whatever the manufacturer calls for is what I will use and that the motor oil business is so competitive that if any of the manufacturers could gain an advantage through using whatever is in Lucas Oil products, they would. Since Ford doesn't call for Lucas Oil products, I wouldn't use them. Kind of like "4 electrode" spark plugs--wouldn't use them either.
The oil companies are using or at least attempting to use the same technology as Lucas and the other niche market manufacturers...that's why Penzzoil and the others are producing the blends we are seeing on the shelves now. You should try the old coffee filter test on your oil of choice...under a microscope from a cheap kids chemistry set the differences in oil products are mind blowing.
You really should try the quad plugs out at the very minimum...after years of having to change standard single and double electrode plugs once every 9 months, I've been using the Bosch platinum ir fusion plugs for almost 40k miles and I haven't had to change them yet...less fouling, better gas mileage, very little core and electrode wear and consistent power.
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The oil companies are using or at least attempting to use the same technology as Lucas and the other niche market manufacturers...that's why Penzzoil and the others are producing the blends we are seeing on the shelves now. You should try the old coffee filter test on your oil of choice...under a microscope from a cheap kids chemistry set the differences in oil products are mind blowing.
You really should try the quad plugs out at the very minimum...after years of having to change standard single and double electrode plugs once every 9 months, I've been using the Bosch platinum ir fusion plugs for almost 40k miles and I haven't had to change them yet...less fouling, better gas mileage, very little core and electrode wear and consistent power.
bosh is the one plat. plug i hate.
they have the center electrode flush with the ceramic. this causes a misfire as soon as this electrode starts to wear.
i've had many fords and chevys that've had this problem.
as for changing plugs every 9 months? my mustang got driven HARD. gamblers races on tuesdays. friday night street races. then off to the closed airport, and race on the runway till the police chased us. then off to front street...same thing...till the police chased us.
sat. night bracket races. then more street racing. and this car was driven every single day of the year. i used champion golds in it. never had any problems. i actually picked up a tenth by putting them in.
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I got some iridium plugs for my firebird... They worked great, never fouled, and ought to last 100k miles at least. Of course the engine was essentially stock, but a lot of guys who messed with their firebirds used the same plug (in a hotter or colder heat range though) and said they worked just fine for years.
If you're replacing plugs every 9 months, almost no matter what kind of plug you're using, either your motor is running poorly or you have a special application that is going to eat plugs so suck it up :)
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Yeah Cap, the original dual electrode platninums don't perform very well once that core starts to wear...that's why I switched to the quad electrode platinum/iridium models. Pre gapped, no muss, no fuss.
I put a lot of miles on my cars...combo highway/city...through traffic jams and all...for the last 4 years it's been minimum 500 to 600 miles a week running the crap gas sold in Wisconsin...with standard plugs I would set the gap, put them in, check them every 3 months and re-gap as needed...average 9 months of use...no other plugs have been as good as the Bosch quad platinum/ir's...not even the Bosch double platinums...and I still check them every 3 months. And when I buy a car, first thing I do is toss out the dealer plugs, plug wires, filters and fluids.
Eagl...how else would a Dodge 2.0 engine run but poorly? Especially with crappy gasoline...the only engine worse was that Pontiac quad 4.
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Royal purple is where it's at.
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I've never used an "additive" in any engine.
I've used Amsoil in the past and would use it again. Royal Purple would be 2nd.
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i use lucas and shell rotella t in my 2005 cummins isx 600 turned up to 925. i change the oil every 20,000 miles or 30 days. oil analysis shows no abnormal wear after 875,000 miles. if it works pulling 40 tons it should work great in your car.
Same here, i used it in my last truck, in engine transmission, differential,Volvo 770, Detroit D60 engine, i sold it in 2007,with 1.3 milion miles ,was never rebuilt. The truck i have now,Volvo 780, 2008 with D13 Volvo engine i can't use it, it's still in warranty and Volvo can void the warranty if something goes wrong, but it has 3 x oil filters, goes over 30k miles on the same oil. But i'm using synthetic oil from November to March ,it's not getting thick at low temperature like other natural oils, i don't have problems starting it @ low temp. up here in Canada. See you on ch.19!
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You really should try the quad plugs out at the very minimum...after years of having to change standard single and double electrode plugs once every 9 months, I've been using the Bosch platinum ir fusion plugs for almost 40k miles and I haven't had to change them yet.
Every 9 months? That's insane!
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Yeah Cap, the original dual electrode platninums don't perform very well once that core starts to wear...that's why I switched to the quad electrode platinum/iridium models. Pre gapped, no muss, no fuss.
I put a lot of miles on my cars...combo highway/city...through traffic jams and all...for the last 4 years it's been minimum 500 to 600 miles a week running the crap gas sold in Wisconsin...with standard plugs I would set the gap, put them in, check them every 3 months and re-gap as needed...average 9 months of use...no other plugs have been as good as the Bosch quad platinum/ir's...not even the Bosch double platinums...and I still check them every 3 months. And when I buy a car, first thing I do is toss out the dealer plugs, plug wires, filters and fluids.
Eagl...how else would a Dodge 2.0 engine run but poorly? Especially with crappy gasoline...the only engine worse was that Pontiac quad 4.
dodge 2.0 isn't really a bad engine. that's one of the ones in neons i think.....they're not particularily powerful, but i've never seen any reliability problems with them......with the exception of the cam sensor seal, and one or two i've seen leak oil from the rear corner of the head gasket.
regardless of the engine, if you were replacing them every 9 months.....somehting is wrong. i didn't change mine that often.....and you read how much i raced mine.......
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dodge 2.0 isn't really a bad engine. that's one of the ones in neons i think.....they're not particularily powerful, but i've never seen any reliability problems with them......with the exception of the cam sensor seal, and one or two i've seen leak oil from the rear corner of the head gasket.
regardless of the engine, if you were replacing them every 9 months.....somehting is wrong. i didn't change mine that often.....and you read how much i raced mine.......
No kidding, larger forces at work there. Almost wondering if the Pistons were getting proper combustion.
Gyrene? Were the plugs fouled with oil, carbon, etc?
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No kidding, larger forces at work there. Almost wondering if the Pistons were getting proper combustion.
Gyrene? Were the plugs fouled with oil, carbon, etc?
9 months would be kinda quick for carbon.....but oil...i had a chevy that fouled #7 every 4 or 5 months...with oil. took it out, cleaned it, and put it back in.......
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No kidding, larger forces at work there. Almost wondering if the Pistons were getting proper combustion.
Gyrene? Were the plugs fouled with oil, carbon, etc?
1 was carbon fouled the rest were just round tipped core and brown crusty...like clockwork...almost like they were too hot.
Not anymore though... :D 142k and going... :old: :angel:
I am talking about over the counter single contact copper and platinum plugs...Champion, AC/Delco, Autolite, Denso, Bosch. Checked the plug wires, boots, etc...for leaks. The quad platinum/ir haven't had any issue at all.
The Dodge 2.0 SOHC isn't as robust as the DOHC model...but you can tweak it some to make it perform better, the only thing I haven't done is reprogram the puter and swap out the air filter...yet.
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http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
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1 was carbon fouled the rest were just round tipped core and brown crusty...like clockwork...almost like they were too hot.
Not anymore though... :D 142k and going... :old: :angel:
I am talking about over the counter single contact copper and platinum plugs...Champion, AC/Delco, Autolite, Denso, Bosch. Checked the plug wires, boots, etc...for leaks. The quad platinum/ir haven't had any issue at all.
The Dodge 2.0 SOHC isn't as robust as the DOHC model...but you can tweak it some to make it perform better, the only thing I haven't done is reprogram the puter and swap out the air filter...yet.
brown crusty, i think is a little bit of oil getting on it. it's been awhile, but a good burning plug should look like a white/greyish color with no accumulations.
if it were antifreeze, the plug would be clean. almost new looking.
OIL, in small amounts will leave that crusty look.
now.....some systems, and i think dodges is one of them, can and will fire each cylinder for different lengths of time, and different voltages. so if the system sees a cylinder not firing correctly, it could fire that(or all) cylinder/s hotter, which in turn could/would lead to premature plug wear.
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CAP, I was thinking maybe the valve seats were shot, when he originally posted.
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Ok, here is one for you guys.
A while back I put a quart of "engine flush" in my engine thinking it would clean out the inside of my engine.
I have a 2002 Altima 2.5 with 125k miles. It was flawless before that.
Now I think it took too much out of my engine around the rings and what not. It now burns about a quart a week. I know it is not leaking as there has never been a drop on my driveway.
I have tried misc. "ring seal" and other stuff at local auto parts stores. Any suggestions?
I am sold on synthetic motor oils, but at $7-8 bucks a quart I'm not forking that out when it is going to burn it as fast as it does.
Tapakeg
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I like playing with the Lucas display on the counter at the parts store while I'm waiting for the guy to get my stuff. It's a great time waster.
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CAP, I was thinking maybe the valve seats were shot, when he originally posted.
THE Only thing keeping me from thinking that, is the accumulation.
had they just been burnt, then i'd think that.
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Ok, here is one for you guys.
A while back I put a quart of "engine flush" in my engine thinking it would clean out the inside of my engine.
I have a 2002 Altima 2.5 with 125k miles. It was flawless before that.
Now I think it took too much out of my engine around the rings and what not. It now burns about a quart a week. I know it is not leaking as there has never been a drop on my driveway.
I have tried misc. "ring seal" and other stuff at local auto parts stores. Any suggestions?
I am sold on synthetic motor oils, but at $7-8 bucks a quart I'm not forking that out when it is going to burn it as fast as it does.
Tapakeg
i've never liked engine flushes. it always stirs up crap.
chances are good, that it "cleaned" your engine too well. it may have caused a momentary "dryness" in the cylinder bores, or it could've actually caused the rings to seize in their grooves.
one thing to try, if you suspect the rings stuck, is to pour a small amount(VERY small) of tranny fluid in each cylinder...through the spark plug hole. let this set for a day or two, then start her up. she's gonna smoke like the dickens for a few minutes, but often if you have stuck rings, this will unstick them.
i've had guys that've run that flush crap through their engines, and later seized the engine, as it actually clogged the oil pump pick-up screen.
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Ok, here is one for you guys.
A while back I put a quart of "engine flush" in my engine thinking it would clean out the inside of my engine.
I have a 2002 Altima 2.5 with 125k miles. It was flawless before that.
Now I think it took too much out of my engine around the rings and what not. It now burns about a quart a week. I know it is not leaking as there has never been a drop on my driveway.
I have tried misc. "ring seal" and other stuff at local auto parts stores. Any suggestions?
I am sold on synthetic motor oils, but at $7-8 bucks a quart I'm not forking that out when it is going to burn it as fast as it does.
Tapakeg
Did that with a Ford 360 once...after over 100k miles went to flush it using that 5 minute engine flush instead of my usual method of a pint of diesel fuel...ended up having to drop the oil pan and clean the oil pump pickup screen...I got lucky because I had an oil pressure gauge instead of an idiot light. 2 days worth of work under the old oak tree.
Cap1 has a good idea to address the rings issue...just make sure you don't put more than a couple of tablespoons in each cylinder...it could foul your plugs.
Thanks for the tip on the ignition firing Cap1...didn't know that...explains a lot. I do have a sticky lifter now...could be collapsed...recent development. If it was my old big block 428 Ford I would fix it myself but...little 4 banger has way too much environmental electronic crap on it.
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i've never liked engine flushes. it always stirs up crap.
chances are good, that it "cleaned" your engine too well. it may have caused a momentary "dryness" in the cylinder bores, or it could've actually caused the rings to seize in their grooves.
one thing to try, if you suspect the rings stuck, is to pour a small amount(VERY small) of tranny fluid in each cylinder...through the spark plug hole. let this set for a day or two, then start her up. she's gonna smoke like the dickens for a few minutes, but often if you have stuck rings, this will unstick them.
i've had guys that've run that flush crap through their engines, and later seized the engine, as it actually clogged the oil pump pick-up screen.
yep, I bought a second hand engine from a bike wreckers that was apperently reconditioned, it had been flushed with something ( I remember the wrecker telling me this.), all these little bits of what appeared to be loctite 515 blue form a gasket had broken loose and had made a perfect seal over the oil pump pick up grate. This was discovered too late. As for lucas oil, my cousin who owns a crane truck bussiness swears by it and it goes into all his equipment.
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Sorry,
Define "stuck rings"
I did this flush about 20k miles ago. The only bad effect is the added use of oil.
Like I have said, I have used a different "sealer" with each oil change. Motor honey, ring seal, etc. It seems to be working to slow the leak.
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Sorry,
Define "stuck rings"
I did this flush about 20k miles ago. The only bad effect is the added use of oil.
Like I have said, I have used a different "sealer" with each oil change. Motor honey, ring seal, etc. It seems to be working to slow the leak.
The compression rings are glued or sticking to their lands (grooves) in the piston. As such they cannot accommodate for the expansion and contraction of the cylinder.
It isn't a good thing.
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I dated a girl that had a '94 2.0 Dodge Neon. The dealer overfilled the oil (filled without draining) and screwed up just about every sensor on the engine before I drained it. It never ran right again. I tried Berryman's and Lucas to clean off the sensors, neither worked.
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Sorry,
Define "stuck rings"
I did this flush about 20k miles ago. The only bad effect is the added use of oil.
Like I have said, I have used a different "sealer" with each oil change. Motor honey, ring seal, etc. It seems to be working to slow the leak.
stuck rings:
for what ever reason, the compression rings(there's 2 of them) and/or the oil ring may be partially stuck in the ring grooves.
the piston is smaller than the cylinder bore. it(in theory) never touches the cylinder bore. the piston rings are all that do touch it.
as the plug fires, creating pressure in the quench area, this forces the piston down. it also forces all 3 ings out against the cylinder wall. or rather, it's supposed to force them out. by doing this, it seals compression out of the crank case(for the most part), and keeps oil from getting into the combustion chamber.
if during the cleaning, something got caught in one of the grooves, they may have gotten stuck in their grooves. so, if they're stuck, the oil ring won't clean all of the oil off of the cylinder wall, and it'll end up in the combustion chamber, getting burnt.
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I like playing with the Lucas display on the counter at the parts store while I'm waiting for the guy to get my stuff. It's a great time waster.
HAHAHAHA Same here HAHAHAHAHA