Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: Reaper90 on April 08, 2011, 12:06:21 PM
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The subject of this thread has nothing what-so-ever to do with sexual preference, so don't even go there!
I wanna see pictures of garages! We have thread after thread of "show us your car" - what about something for those who love the house the hot rod lives in?
in 2002 we moved, and I was forced (hopefully temporarily) to downsize from my 1200 sq foot shop to a roughly 400 sq foot 2-car garage. Well, if the baby has to sleep there, it has to be nice looking in addition to being fully functional.
My "dog house"
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208112_1015091423641_1415742882_30034338_1432_n.jpg)
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199276_1015091463642_1415742882_30034339_1776_n.jpg)
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208188_1015091503643_1415742882_30034340_2096_n.jpg)
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/200196_1015091583645_1415742882_30034342_2784_n.jpg)
Alright, post 'em up guys! I know some of you "car guys" have garages you wanna show off!
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Izzat carpeting I see there?
Got no garage. The house is actually in my avatar. It's the thing behind the big white tow vehicle.
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1200 square feet is the same size as the house Thundr and I grew up in.... And whats a garage?
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Izzat carpeting I see there?
Actually it's interlocking plastic garage floor tile.... I spill way too much stuff for carpet, LOL!
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(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Upgraded%20Breery/Brewery_%20v2/100_1806.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Upgraded%20Breery/Brewery_%20v2/100_1800.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Bearhawk%20Building%20pics/100_1306.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Bearhawk%20Building%20pics/100_1311.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Bearhawk%20Building%20pics/100_1336.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Bearhawk%20Building%20pics/100_1342.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Bearhawk%20Building%20pics/100_1345.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Smithy/100_1376.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Smithy/100_1377.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Smithy/100_1379.jpg)
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whats the spars for?
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I see your smithy and raise you my Haas St 30-SS
24 station turret with live tooling straight and 90 degree.
31"swing
16" OD cutting
30HP spindle
High pressure coolant
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1117/st30.jpg) (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/st30.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46aHPR4MQjk
I'll post some pictures of some parts I make then sometime. Programming a CNC is a lot to learn but it's nice to watch it run after its all proofed out.
Load some bar, press cycle start, and count your money :D
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whats the spars for?
Actually the long piece of MDF is the master form block, and the aluminum parts are nose ribs...
Bearhawk
Scratch build :devil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrows_Bearhawk (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrows_Bearhawk)
Why? Got some spare time you don't know what to do with? :D
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I see your smithy and raise you my Haas St 30-SS
24 station turret with live tooling straight and 90 degree.
31"swing
16" OD cutting
30HP spindle
High pressure coolant
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1117/st30.jpg) (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/st30.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46aHPR4MQjk
I'll post some pictures of some parts I make then sometime.
Can you lower it into your basement with your Jeep? :D
I may retro the Smithy for CNC in the future. I've programmed and run all types of CNC machine tools (lathes, mills, wire and sinker EDM's), but when I did my apprenticeship, it was old school :aok I remember spending the first month of my tool & die apprenticeship filing a 1" block to within .005" of parallelness, and perpendicularity by hand :O
I really DO wish I had gotten a DRO for it, though. The dials are accurate enouge (holds within .0005" (after I stoned and adjusted the gibs), but it would be nice to remember where you left off. It's not like work where you are on one project til it's finished. There are distractions at home and more than once, I've had to pick-up my zero again because I forgot where I was :rofl
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Actually the long piece of MDF is the master form block, and the aluminum parts are nose ribs...
Bearhawk
Scratch build :devil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrows_Bearhawk (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrows_Bearhawk)
Why? Got some spare time you don't know what to do with? :D
lol if i lived closer you bet :aok fabricating is something I've always loved doing, just using your hands to build something is very rewarding well at least it is to me
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I envy you guys with access to the big mills. My little guy (home built) is a 4 axis CNC (5HP servos), and only has a workspace of 9" x 18" x 12". I am limited to the material as well. I can work with 6061 aluminum, but that is about as hard as it can get.
I use it mostly to make delrin bushings and spacers for vintage cars.
I do have a 48" x 48" vacuum table though. :)
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(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Upgraded%20Breery/Brewery_%20v2/100_1806.jpg)
is that a meth lab?
:bolt:
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Programming a CNC is a lot to learn but it's nice to watch it run after its all proofed out.
Agreed its alot to learn lol. And the learning curve can be expensive. I worked at a machine shop out of HS while going to college. I use to set mine up to run well off the face of the part, as a dry run. I learned this is the best method, as crashing my Okuma turret into the spindle did not make for a happy employer. Amazing how important decimal placement is :lol
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I see your smithy and raise you my Haas St 30-SS
24 station turret with live tooling straight and 90 degree.
31"swing
16" OD cutting
30HP spindle
High pressure coolant
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/1117/st30.jpg) (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/st30.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46aHPR4MQjk
I'll post some pictures of some parts I make then sometime. Programming a CNC is a lot to learn but it's nice to watch it run after its all proofed out.
Load some bar, press cycle start, and count your money :D
friend of mine has 4 of those bad boys, one day he needed help running some parts for a military contract he has ( bomb pins) he showed me how to run it and set it up, how to mic parts every so often to make sure they were all in spec, i ran over 5000 pieces helping him out and man it really got my interest in machining, i would love to have that as a career, question why were you dry cutting as opposed to using cooling fluid
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LMAO I've almost made that mistake bailey 18,000 pages of code and this can be the one that crashes your 250k machine
G00 X8.
G00 Z8
See that Z without a decimal after it? That told the machine to move .0008 away from the chuck and index the turret instead of 8"
CRAAAASH :cry
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Gotta love G-code. :)
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is that a meth lab?
:bolt:
Um, no...
I brew beer :D
It makes my brother happy as you can see...
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Bulk%20Grain%20Buy%201/100_1732.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/NewBeerLabel2.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Dayton%20Beer/New%20Dayton/100_1177.jpg)
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friend of mine has 4 of those bad boys, one day he needed help running some parts for a military contract he has ( bomb pins) he showed me how to run it and set it up, how to mic parts every so often to make sure they were all in spec, i ran over 5000 pieces helping him out and man it really got my interest in machining, i would love to have that as a career, question why were you dry cutting as opposed to using cooling fluid
Yea once a part is programed theres not much to do other than push start and walk away.
I can teach someone to touch off the face of a part and change offsets in a few minutes and then they can get going.
I've been machining for 4 years and running the CNC for 1...I run a waterjet too.
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:cheers: :aok
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Agreed its alot to learn lol. And the learning curve can be expensive. I worked at a machine shop out of HS while going to college. I use to set mine up to run well off the face of the part, as a dry run. I learned this is the best method, as crashing my Okuma turret into the spindle did not make for a happy employer. Amazing how important decimal placement is :lol
Which one? :D
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Which one? :D
Peak Precision in Lansdale, We did defense contractor and aerospace work, (Lockheed, Northrup etc.... Honeywell parts, medical stuff and even a made roller coaster parts for Philadelphia Tobogan (Lansdale). We were right next to a shop that did large machining ( I mean friggin huge parts ) for the oil industry (if i remember correctly) , They had mills with tables that were the size of the footprint of my house......really cool stuff.
The company i worked for has since moved to Hatfield.
http://www.peakprecisioncnc.com/
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WHats more complicated cnc code or coding a game?
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Um, no...
I brew beer :D
It makes my brother happy as you can see...
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Bulk%20Grain%20Buy%201/100_1732.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/NewBeerLabel2.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Dayton%20Beer/New%20Dayton/100_1177.jpg)
PHILLIES!#@!@!@@!@!@!@!#!@@!@!!
:D
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LMAO I've almost made that mistake bailey 18,000 pages of code and this can be the one that crashes your 250k machine
G00 X8.
G00 Z8
See that Z without a decimal after it? That told the machine to move .0008 away from the chuck and index the turret instead of 8"
CRAAAASH :cry
You must have been there :lol, thats about exactly what i did. Never in my life have i heard such an ungodly noise. Sounded like a freight train ran into a brick wall. Im sure the guy next to me pooped himself a little bit :lol. I Rammed the turret into the spindle and a sand casting used for pneumatic pumps. Needless to say, i spent the rest of that day and another deburring stuff while the Okuma tech (that my boss paid to fly in) fixed the machine. He kept looking over at me and shaking his head every time he removed a part( or what was left of a part) of the machine. I think he felt like choking me for my boss :D
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Peak Precision in Lansdale, We did defense contractor and aerospace work, (Lockheed, Northrup etc.... Honeywell parts, medical stuff and even a made roller coaster parts for Philadelphia Tobogan (Lansdale). We were right next to a shop that did large machining ( I mean friggin huge parts ) for the oil industry (if i remember correctly) , They had mills with tables that were the size of the footprint of my house......really cool stuff.
The company i worked for has since moved to Hatfield.
http://www.peakprecisioncnc.com/
I know exactly where they are :D
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You must have been there :lol, thats about exactly what i did. Never in my life have i heard such an ungodly noise. Sounded like a freight train ran into a brick wall. Im sure the guy next to me pooped himself a little bit :lol. I Rammed the turret into the spindle and a sand casting used for pneumatic pumps. Needless to say, i spent the rest of that day and another deburring stuff while the Okuma tech (that my boss paid to fly in) fixed the machine. He kept looking over at me and shaking his head every time he removed a part( or what was left of a part) of the machine. I think he felt like choking me for my boss :D
It only takes a second to crash..remember the reset button won't stop a turret index only the E stop will.
And we have 5% 25% 50% 100% rapid traverse so I always run on 5% when proofing
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WHats more complicated cnc code or coding a game?
They both have thier challenges. For me it is easier to read C code than G code. They are both highly structured. At any given time either one can be hard or easy to read. It all depends on what is being accomplished.
A good game, with a lot of depth, will easily exceed a million lines of code. In G-code, that would be a pretty complex part.
I rigged in a panic switch on my mill to shut it completely down if I see something bad about to happen. I do have a zero stop, which will shut down the servos if the head tries to move to a negative index. I just have to remember to set it when I index the head. That switch has saved me alot of bits and chucks.
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They both have thier challenges. For me it is easier to read C code than G code. They are both highly structured. At any given time either one can be hard or easy to read. It all depends on what is being accomplished.
A good game, with a lot of depth, will easily exceed a million lines of code. In G-code, that would be a pretty complex part.
I rigged in a panic switch on my mill to shut it completely down if I see something bad about to happen. I do have a zero stop, which will shut down the servos if the head tries to move to a negative index. I just have to remember to set it when I index the head. That switch has saved me alot of bits and chucks.
You would think there would be a parameter you could set to not let it go past the chuck jaw point in the -Z
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You would think there would be a parameter you could set to not let it go past the chuck jaw point in the -Z
That is what I thought when I was putting my mill together. I am so happy with the zero stop, I am going to incorporate it into the other two axises.
The other nice thing about the stop switch is it stops the computer as well so I see the line of code that caused the problem. I used to have to search through it, unless I was watching it when it happened.
I can pretty much walk away when i am proofing now. No more damaged bits (or worse) and if it stops, I know exactly what caused it. WOOHOO!
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Um, no...
I brew beer :D
It makes my brother happy as you can see...
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Bulk%20Grain%20Buy%201/100_1732.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/NewBeerLabel2.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff107/tymekeepyr/Beer/Dayton%20Beer/New%20Dayton/100_1177.jpg)
A ta-152 on the label ehh? is that cuz it gives you the runs?
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That is what I thought when I was putting my mill together. I am so happy with the zero stop, I am going to incorporate it into the other two axises.
The other nice thing about the stop switch is it stops the computer as well so I see the line of code that caused the problem. I used to have to search through it, unless I was watching it when it happened.
I can pretty much walk away when i am proofing now. No more damaged bits (or worse) and if it stops, I know exactly what caused it. WOOHOO!
Hmm is this zero stop something you rigged or factory?
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(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/cooked2008/shops.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/cooked2008/boat.jpg)
Work in progress.
Rash
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Izzat carpeting I see there?
Got no garage. The house is actually in my avatar. It's the thing behind the big white tow vehicle.
No overkill on that tow vehicle. Finally someone who can actually pull a hill with their camper.
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(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/cooked2008/shops.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj41/cooked2008/boat.jpg)
Work in progress.
Rash
I hope one day to have a mancave 1/2 as glorious as this.
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Hmm is this zero stop something you rigged or factory?
I added it. My mill is a full blown homegrown rig. I started with a little Taig mill, then used it to make the parts for the current mill. I learned a lot from that experience. Next mill will be able to cut much harder materials, and the one after that will be able to do more and so on.
At the moment I am using Mach3 for the software to drive the mill.
My goal is to be able to cut any machinable steel on a 24" x 18" x 18" table. At that point I will be able to cut custom wheels from blanks, among other automotive parts.
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I added it. My mill is a full blown homegrown rig. I started with a little Taig mill, then used it to make the parts for the current mill. I learned a lot from that experience. Next mill will be able to cut much harder materials, and the one after that will be able to do more and so on.
At the moment I am using Mach3 for the software to drive the mill.
My goal is to be able to cut any machinable steel on a 24" x 18" x 18" table. At that point I will be able to cut custom wheels from blanks, among other automotive parts.
What issues are you running in to?
Are you stalling when you try to machine harder materials?
That seems to be the main issue with my Smithy. It is the top Midas model but not a heavy duty machine by any stretch. It is also belt driven (and requires gear changes to change feed rates) I should have bit the bullet and bought a Granite series machine which is all gear driven, and quick-change feed rates.
I've been working with a lot of O-1 tool steel lately and it cuts with no problem as long as I have a good, rigid setup and don't try to make ridiculous hog cuts like one could on a Bridgeport. I've also machined some A-2 and D-2 as well. It seems that the worst problem I run into is the the belts slip.
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The problem with building your own mill, is when you start with something as tiny as a Taig (200 ounce servos, 1/4 inch chuck, belt drive), the hardest you can cut is 6061 aluminum (and that is making chips no bigger than 1/32 of an inch...can you say sloooooowww). This is what the head of my current mill is made and I am still belt driven.
I can cut some steels (not tool steel), but it is slow (just like cutting 6061 on the Taig) and I am in that process so I can make the next mill head and it will be able to merrily cut anything I want, in a timely fashion, as I will switch to full gear drive, 1/2" chuck, and better material for gusseting of the frame.
The hardest material I will need to cut is stainless steel and I should be able to cut it like butter with the next mill revamp.
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The problem with building your own mill, is when you start with something as tiny as a Taig (200 ounce servos, 1/4 inch chuck, belt drive), the hardest you can cut is 6061 aluminum (and that is making chips no bigger than 1/32 of an inch...can you say sloooooowww). This is what the head of my current mill is made and I am still belt driven.
I can cut some steels (not tool steel), but it is slow (just like cutting 6061 on the Taig) and I am in that process so I can make the next mill head and it will be able to merrily cut anything I want, in a timely fashion, as I will switch to full gear drive, 1/2" chuck, and better material for gusseting of the frame.
The hardest material I will need to cut is stainless steel and I should be able to cut it like butter with the next mill revamp.
:aok
I don't really cut a lot of tool steel either, but I have been making some dies to make a/c parts for my Bearhawk so I (hopefully) can reduce the build time.
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I noticed you hammering out that one part. Silly question, but do you anneal those panels before hammering them out?
I do not know if I will get around to pressing out parts in steel. I need to re-learn how to use my English wheel first. I used to be a whiz at it, but then had to store it for the last 25 years due to lack of space to use it.
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I've also machined some A-2 and D-2 as well.
Try cutting them in a mill hardened to 56-58 Rc, that is a true joy. :)
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I mostly turn 316 stainless and sometimes steel...stainless you run roughly half the speed of steel or aluminum.... .004 feed at 450 SF/pm for a 23 finish.
I like steel parts though cause you can run a .006 feed and 1200 SF/pm and get the same finish.
I can also take .5" off the O.D. in one pass! Should hear the chips hammering the door as they come off
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAn0eqRpLF0&feature=related
neat chesspiece^ I couldnt find any haas videos with live tooling but this okuma has a good one.
Live tooling makes life easy..I drill tap contour all without movin to a mill
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I look forward to getting those feed rates on any kind of steel.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAn0eqRpLF0
Beautiful..
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I look forward to getting those feed rates on any kind of steel.
Yea we have a 1970 south bend belt drive....i feel your pain
I go from the CNC over to it for something simple...dial up .020 and stall the belt... :lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87y2IXNsStM
Insert drill^ If you've never seen one of these run you will be amazed...we drill 1.25 hole 8" deep in 45 seconds with one of these.
I cringe when I hit start on these bad boys
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I noticed you hammering out that one part. Silly question, but do you anneal those panels before hammering them out?
I do not know if I will get around to pressing out parts in steel. I need to re-learn how to use my English wheel first. I used to be a whiz at it, but then had to store it for the last 25 years due to lack of space to use it.
No, it's .025" 2024-T3. It is what the plans call for. Most of the wing ribs, stiffeners and wing skins are the the same. The spars will be .032". The only concession is that I don't have a radius smaller than .125" or any scratches to prevent cracking. I then have the option of alodine or epoxy paint. Although I may gain weight with the paint, this plane has a beastly 1200 lb. useful load. I haven't tossed out the idea of putting floats on it one day, so I think the epoxy will offer better corrosion resistance
I have a 4' x 25' roll that I started with. I haven't gone through a lot of it yet, as other projects keep coming up :(
We are going on vacation in May though and, when we come back, I'm attacking it with a vengeance.
http://www.mykitlog.com/vonmessa (http://www.mykitlog.com/vonmessa)
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Annealing it before hammering it out should reduce stress ridges in the bends. Although, that is pretty thin stuff to anneal.
When I make a windshield frame, I anneal it, then bend it while it is clamped. Then heat treat it. It ends up being a lot less work and the strength of the frame is very good.
Careful with epoxy. It can hide corrosion. For steel, consider an acid wash, neutralizer, followed by dry heat drying, then immediately primer the surface. For aluminum, anodize it, then primer it. I have seen a number of epoxy paint jobs fall off in sheets, after a few years, with the metal underneath corroding away.
Yea we have a 1970 south bend belt drive....i feel your pain
I go from the CNC over to it for something simple...dial up .020 and stall the belt... :lol<snip>
Tell me about it. I finally built a belt guard, as I got tired of the damn things being thrown at me like giant rubber bands being shot off.
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Annealing it before hammering it out should reduce stress ridges in the bends. Although, that is pretty thin stuff to anneal.
When I make a windshield frame, I anneal it, then bend it while it is clamped. Then heat treat it. It ends up being a lot less work and the strength of the frame is very good.
Careful with epoxy. It can hide corrosion. For steel, consider an acid wash, neutralizer, followed by dry heat drying, then immediately primer the surface. For aluminum, anodize it, then primer it. I have seen a number of epoxy paint jobs fall off in sheets, after a few years, with the metal underneath corroding away.
Tell me about it. I finally built a belt guard, as I got tired of the damn things being thrown at me like giant rubber bands being shot off.
It's pretty soft stuff. It works like butter. Clamp it in the vice and get busy with the rawhide mallet. I usually only have to make 2 passes: One to set the bend and one on the way back to bend the rest of the flange. After that, it's fluting pliers (made from vice grips, 3/16" rod and the tip dipped in the DIY plastic handle goop) to take up the slack and a square til i get my 90 deg.
I just need to find a cleaner and easier way to cut the blanks out. Using the router with a laminate bit is fast and accurate, but it makes one hell of a mess :devil
I was wondering about the epoxy paint. I have heard the same thing a few times about it falling off in sheets. I was wondering if this would be an issue for the internal structure as they would be painted one piece at at time. I haven't gotten that far to worry about it yet and a friend of mine that is a helicopter wrench has offered to have me come to the shop and alodine all my parts some weekend.
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Honestly, for an internal structure, I would acid wash (that converts any oxide to inert material), then apply a good zinc chromate to it. Should last forever in a sealed environment.
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Honestly, for an internal structure, I would acid wash (that converts any oxide to inert material), then apply a good zinc chromate to it. Should last forever in a sealed environment.
My Grandfather said the same thing...
It appears that the EPA is not too keen on it anymore :cry
There appears to be "safe" alternatives, though :aok
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Really? zinc chromate is out? Bummer.
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Really? zinc chromate is out? Bummer.
It can be purchased, but it appears to not be as cheap as it used to be...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ptizincchromateprimer.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ptizincchromateprimer.php)
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It can be purchased, but it appears to not be as cheap as it used to be...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ptizincchromateprimer.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ptizincchromateprimer.php)
Ok, had me worried there for a bit. Yes, it never has been cheap, as compared to other coatings, but for rust prevention it is difficult to beat. I would certainly trust it more than epoxy.
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Nice man caves!
here is my garage where I spend alot of my free time. With those 4 ft tall speakers mounted on either side of the interior, I can pretty much shake the windows :)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL767/2726312/23510941/396059741.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL767/2726312/21767624/396217259.jpg)
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL767/2726312/21767624/396217258.jpg)
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Ok, had me worried there for a bit. Yes, it never has been cheap, as compared to other coatings, but for rust prevention it is difficult to beat. I would certainly trust it more than epoxy.
Same thing my Grandfather says.
I wince at some of his suggestions, though (he will be 90 this year)
The concept of painting the porch for him and his contemporaries back in the day was to take all the semi-used cans of lead paint from the garage, mix the leftovers in a big bucket til it became a battleship gray and slather it all over the porch.
No wonder he can't understand why the "exterior porch paint" we used from the big box store 2 years is chipping already :D
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Rip what happend to the trout pic on the front of the RV?
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messa.
"I just need to find a cleaner and easier way to cut the blanks out. Using the router with a laminate bit is fast and accurate, but it makes one hell of a mess devil"
We have a waterjet and its super fast on thin stuff and can cut any material...you should look into if anyone has one near you.
Also if your cutting sheet metal alot of people use metal sheers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD485/ref=asc_df_B0000DD4851499304?smid=A2LM8ZC59IT9RX&tag=pgmp-819-95-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0000DD485
Cheap pair^
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messa.
"I just need to find a cleaner and easier way to cut the blanks out. Using the router with a laminate bit is fast and accurate, but it makes one hell of a mess devil"
We have a waterjet and its super fast on thin stuff and can cut any material...you should look into if anyone has one near you.
Also if your cutting sheet metal alot of people use metal sheers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD485/ref=asc_df_B0000DD4851499304?smid=A2LM8ZC59IT9RX&tag=pgmp-819-95-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0000DD485
Cheap pair^
I've got aviation snips, a foot shear, box/pan brake, air shears and an air nibbler :D
The problem is that I need all the blanks to be the same size or my plane will fly crooked and dump me out :)
If I still worked at the die shop, I would stack them all in one pile and burn them out on the Wire EDM :)
There are plenty of shops around here that can do it, but it kinda defeats the whole exercise of scratch-building one's own airplane :rock
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I've got aviation snips, a foot shear, box/pan brake, air shears and an air nibbler :D
The problem is that I need all the blanks to be the same size or my plane will fly crooked and dump me out :)
If I still worked at the die shop, I would stack them all in one pile and burn them out on the Wire EDM :)
There are plenty of shops around here that can do it, but it kinda defeats the whole exercise of scratch-building one's own airplane :rock
lol...i can see its more about the build then getting done :neener:
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Rip what happend to the trout pic on the front of the RV?
It's still holding up! That is an older photo before I put it on.
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL767/2726312/21767624/379777602.jpg)
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lol...i can see its more about the build then getting done :neener:
There is no rush to get finished. In fact, if I even set a goal date, it is the first step to failure.
2500 hours is about the average amount of time for what I'm building.
More than likely stretched out over the next 8 - 10 years...
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Here is my "Man cave".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJL8z6Yhsl4
CHEERS! goaly.