Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: MaSonZ on September 01, 2011, 10:07:06 PM
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Driven down the road tonight, Doin the speed limit and all of a sudden I start decelerating while I had my foot on the accelerator. Thought maybe my foot took a break and I didn't realize it, put it to the wood and still no acceleration. Ok, maybe somehow it popped out of gear, hit the clutch put it in neutral and again gave it some gas to see if my rpms would rise, nothing. Ok....odd I say, next thing I know all my dummy lights come on, more odd. Then I lose pose steering. Extremely odd. Pull off to the side of the road to make sure it was still running, went to recrank it (it died), and it would turn over but wouodnt pop off. Ok, call a buddy who knows his stuff about cars who lived right around the corner from where I was, and he tried starting it. Nothing. He pops the hood and has me try it again. Heard some funky noises coming from my timing belt. Good possibility, without a timing belt im not getting the proper (if any) fuel in the right a/f mixture. Hook it to his truck and bring it back to his place where it rests right now and will rest until I get someone who can put it on a trailer and bring to my house. Assuming my timing belt is still in one piece and my timing is good what else could could cause this? Checked all my fluids and they're good, and it still cranks strong so I doubt its my alternator. Thoughts?
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Check to see if you hear your fuel pump priming when you turn the key on, or better yet get under it and put your hand on it. My Silverado fuel pump doesn't make any noise at all. Or pull a spark plug out and see if its firing, cause it could also be your coil pack. What kind of truck?
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Check to see if you hear your fuel pump priming when you turn the key on, or better yet get under it and put your hand on it. My Silverado fuel pump doesn't make any noise at all. Or pull a spark plug out and see if its firing, cause it could also be your coil pack. What kind of truck?
50k on new spark wires and plugs, not ruling that out, but I doubt its my plugs. When it gets to my house ill find my fuel pump (if it isn't in the fuel tank), and have a look at that. Its a '00 Mazda protege. Pretty much a ford escort or something with mazda goodies.
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Ah ok for some reason I thought I read truck somewhere. Um I'm not sure exactly where the tank is in your car but I'd say the pump is in the tank. It's more than likely under your back seat. It's not going to be your plugs or wires because it would have started missing on 1 cylinder not just die. But it will still tell you whether or not your coil is firing. Or better yet pull the coil wire off the distributor and use a screw driver and set it close to a ground and see if it arcs. Or hold it and get a buddy to turn it over :lol.
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Unfortunately, that does sound like a timing belt failure. Hopefully your valve train didn't get damaged. It's the 1.8 liter right?
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Sounds like the timing belt and that can get costly.....
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What kind of car and what mileage on current timing belt?
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A question here. Did you hear any crunching or banging sounds when the car lost power? That is what would happen if the timing belt / chain failed. It would be the valve train being destroyed by the pistons in those cylinders where the valves stopped in the down position.
If it just died with no "bad" noises it is in one of three areas, electrical short, fuel or ignition. That means no spark or no gas getting to the combustion chambers.
Since it did turn over the battery didn't short out breaking the ignition circuit.
Losing the fuel pump would shut you down just as fast as if you turned off the key, assuming you have fuel injection. It would also do the same if the filter got fully clogged or if you got a bit of water in the last fill up. get a pressure gage, put it in the fuel line and check for fuel pressure when you turn the key on and when cranking. No fuel pressure, you have narrowed it down to one system.
Ignition is just removing the spark. You can check it by pulling a plug, hooking the wire back up to it and turning the motor over. If the plug sparks the ignition is good. They almost never lose timing anymore like the old points style distributor.
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A question here. Did you hear any crunching or banging sounds when the car lost power? That is what would happen if the timing belt / chain failed. It would be the valve train being destroyed by the pistons in those cylinders where the valves stopped in the down position.
This is only the case on "interferance fit" engines, where the open valves extend beyond the uppermost travel of the piston. Propper timing keeps these components from contacting. Keep in mind, not all engines are "interferance fit". If the eingine of the OP is not interferance fit, it would just sputter and die if the timing belt failed.
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take it that you have gas? That the tank contain gas and not water?
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Ya .. like Mav said.
Timing belt failure - expensive .. if crank turns and valves go up an down then timing belt = good.
Fuel shutoff - fairly minor unless its the pump in the tank. Pull off air intake an crank it, if you see fuel spray then fuel = good.
Even the new computer driven fuel injection marvels, if you pull off the ductwork and look into the MAF, there will be fuel spray mist you can see when it tries to start. (at least that's been my exp so far .. last one I actually worked on was a turbo trans am, had no fuel spray from the injectors ..fuel pump failed)
Ignition failure - fairly minor unless it's dealer only item. Pull plug, ground it against frame or metal, crank it an see if there's a spark. If spark, ignition = good.
-Frank aka GE
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It also sounds quite possibly like the serpentine belt going or gone. lights-alt and such not getting enough spin, then power steering getting heavy, pump not turning. then it dies, since the alternator is no longer powering it and the battery is no longer holding enough power to run it on it's own.
Just my .02, given no details on engine, year, make model. Good luck though.
Bob
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Its your timing belt, it wont make any noise when it breakes. Replaced the belt on my moms escort, I was driving it when it broke no noise, and when the timing chain broke on my bronco no noise replaced it and drove away.
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It looks like the '00 Protege came with either a 1.6 or a 1.8 Liter engine, NEITHER OF WHICH IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE!
This is a good thing meaning that you can throw on a timing belt and that should take care of things as further engine damage shouldn't have occurred. There are exceptions to this rule however - such as if you had a camshaft lock up or break, or a waterpump seize or another internal problem that caused the timing belt to break.
When the timing covers are off it's a good idea to check each pulley for play, noise and roughness. It's generally good practice to replace the timing belt itself, its tensioner, any idler pulleys for the timing belt and the water pump while it's all apart.
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Unfortunately, that does sound like a timing belt failure. Hopefully your valve train didn't get damaged. It's the 1.8 liter right?
it is indeeda 1.8 liter.
Sounds like the timing belt and that can get costly.....
why i pray it isnt and hope to ruel that out damn quick :bhead
What kind of car and what mileage on current timing belt?
its a 2000 Mazda Protege. around a year and half ago my original engine somehow got Diesel in my coolant resevoir (little odd if you ask me....) so i had to get another one. whether or not the timing belt was replaced when the engine was put in i havent a clue. the engine right now has around 140k on it. was put in around 100k, so assuming the mechanic changed it (like i kinda sorta hope he did...) the belt only has around 40k on it.
It also sounds quite possibly like the serpentine belt going or gone. lights-alt and such not getting enough spin, then power steering getting heavy, pump not turning. then it dies, since the alternator is no longer powering it and the battery is no longer holding enough power to run it on it's own.
Just my .02, given no details on engine, year, make model. Good luck though.
Bob
this would make sense...ruled that out rather quickly last night though however because i lost my serpentine belt mid winter and the only reason i knew is because my battery light xame on one night, and the next morning drivin to school right down the road from my dads i noticed my heat gauge for the engine was ALMOST to the over heated stage.... my dad looked at it all while i was in school and treated me to a new serpentine belt. ill check it though when i see my car next.
It looks like the '00 Protege came with either a 1.6 or a 1.8 Liter engine, NEITHER OF WHICH IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE!
This is a good thing meaning that you can throw on a timing belt and that should take care of things as further engine damage shouldn't have occurred. There are exceptions to this rule however - such as if you had a camshaft lock up or break, or a waterpump seize or another internal problem that caused the timing belt to break.
When the timing covers are off it's a good idea to check each pulley for play, noise and roughness. It's generally good practice to replace the timing belt itself, its tensioner, any idler pulleys for the timing belt and the water pump while it's all apart.
if this is all the case im not gonna be able to afford it i dont think.... :cry
thing is a money pit... bought it for $4000 cash money, and after reapirs (including my brothers deal on the front end a month ago) ive put almost 8,000 into it. for the 12k ive spent on it i could have had a damn fine running car....
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Driven down the road tonight, Doin the speed limit and all of a sudden I start decelerating while I had my foot on the accelerator. Thought maybe my foot took a break and I didn't realize it, put it to the wood and still no acceleration. Ok, maybe somehow it popped out of gear, hit the clutch put it in neutral and again gave it some gas to see if my rpms would rise, nothing. Ok....odd I say, next thing I know all my dummy lights come on, more odd. Then I lose pose steering. Extremely odd. Pull off to the side of the road to make sure it was still running, went to recrank it (it died), and it would turn over but wouodnt pop off. Ok, call a buddy who knows his stuff about cars who lived right around the corner from where I was, and he tried starting it. Nothing. He pops the hood and has me try it again. Heard some funky noises coming from my timing belt. Good possibility, without a timing belt im not getting the proper (if any) fuel in the right a/f mixture. Hook it to his truck and bring it back to his place where it rests right now and will rest until I get someone who can put it on a trailer and bring to my house. Assuming my timing belt is still in one piece and my timing is good what else could could cause this? Checked all my fluids and they're good, and it still cranks strong so I doubt its my alternator. Thoughts?
what kind of car is it?
could be lots of things. clogged cat(sounds almost like that, if it was still running when you first noticed the problem), ignition problem, fuel problem.........
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50k on new spark wires and plugs, not ruling that out, but I doubt its my plugs. When it gets to my house ill find my fuel pump (if it isn't in the fuel tank), and have a look at that. Its a '00 Mazda protege. Pretty much a ford escort or something with mazda goodies.
aahh.......protege. 1.9 liter? mazda engines are interference engines. means that if the belt did break, you've got bent valves.
the fuel pump is in the tank. i can't remember if these have an inertia switch. it should be in the trunk, on one of the side panels, if it has one. check that too.
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A question here. Did you hear any crunching or banging sounds when the car lost power? That is what would happen if the timing belt / chain failed. It would be the valve train being destroyed by the pistons in those cylinders where the valves stopped in the down position.
If it just died with no "bad" noises it is in one of three areas, electrical short, fuel or ignition. That means no spark or no gas getting to the combustion chambers.
Since it did turn over the battery didn't short out breaking the ignition circuit.
Losing the fuel pump would shut you down just as fast as if you turned off the key, assuming you have fuel injection. It would also do the same if the filter got fully clogged or if you got a bit of water in the last fill up. get a pressure gage, put it in the fuel line and check for fuel pressure when you turn the key on and when cranking. No fuel pressure, you have narrowed it down to one system.
Ignition is just removing the spark. You can check it by pulling a plug, hooking the wire back up to it and turning the motor over. If the plug sparks the ignition is good. They almost never lose timing anymore like the old points style distributor.
actually, when a timing belt breaks, you'll hear that loud silence, since the shutdown is almost instant.
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Driven down the road tonight, Doin the speed limit and all of a sudden I start decelerating while I had my foot on the accelerator. Thought maybe my foot took a break and I didn't realize it, put it to the wood and still no acceleration. Ok, maybe somehow it popped out of gear, hit the clutch put it in neutral and again gave it some gas to see if my rpms would rise, nothing. Ok....odd I say, next thing I know all my dummy lights come on, more odd. Then I lose pose steering. Extremely odd. Pull off to the side of the road to make sure it was still running, went to recrank it (it died), and it would turn over but wouodnt pop off. Ok, call a buddy who knows his stuff about cars who lived right around the corner from where I was, and he tried starting it. Nothing. He pops the hood and has me try it again. Heard some funky noises coming from my timing belt. Good possibility, without a timing belt im not getting the proper (if any) fuel in the right a/f mixture. Hook it to his truck and bring it back to his place where it rests right now and will rest until I get someone who can put it on a trailer and bring to my house. Assuming my timing belt is still in one piece and my timing is good what else could could cause this? Checked all my fluids and they're good, and it still cranks strong so I doubt its my alternator. Thoughts?
I am not an expert but those are the sure signs of a UFO encounter. I would check my watch if I were you. See if it running behind. Also, look for any strange marks on your body that you did not have before. There is a good chance you were abducted by aliens :O
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It looks like the '00 Protege came with either a 1.6 or a 1.8 Liter engine, NEITHER OF WHICH IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE!
This is a good thing meaning that you can throw on a timing belt and that should take care of things as further engine damage shouldn't have occurred. There are exceptions to this rule however - such as if you had a camshaft lock up or break, or a waterpump seize or another internal problem that caused the timing belt to break.
When the timing covers are off it's a good idea to check each pulley for play, noise and roughness. It's generally good practice to replace the timing belt itself, its tensioner, any idler pulleys for the timing belt and the water pump while it's all apart.
ya know? i just ran out and looked it up in my book.....you're right. non-interference. looks like a rather easy belt to do too........if it is broken, probably less than $300.
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MasonZ,
turn key on,listen for fuel pump,this is a common problem to Protege's and escorts for that matter. Lucky for you it's a non-interference motor and if it's a timming belt it's not as bad as if it was say a honda or toyota.
As someone else said check for spark and fuel if you have both then look at timming belt,you could pull the valve cover off and see if the belt is still there,if it is you could bump the engine and see if it turns or just unraveles.... :D to bump the engine just hit the starter for a second,best to have a helper so you can watch whats going on.
hope that helps,the protege's are pretty good cars but they do have some issues.
:salute
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thing is a money pit... bought it for $4000 cash money, and after reapirs (including my brothers deal on the front end a month ago) ive put almost 8,000 into it. for the 12k ive spent on it i could have had a damn fine running car....
I don't know the repair history for this vehicle but you need to understand that the timing belt is made of a rubber compound and as a result needs to be replaced every once in awhile as regular maintenance. Timing belts are usually recommended between 60,000 and 100,000 miles (depending on the vehicle) for this exact reason. Since these often cost several hundred dollars to do many people neglect this and then it breaks.
I wouldn't automatically dismiss the vehicle as a lemon because a part that was supposed to be replaced wasn't and broke as a result.
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I don't know the repair history for this vehicle but you need to understand that the timing belt is made of a rubber compound and as a result needs to be replaced every once in awhile as regular maintenance. Timing belts are usually recommended between 60,000 and 100,000 miles (depending on the vehicle) for this exact reason. Since these often cost several hundred dollars to do many people neglect this and then it breaks.
I wouldn't automatically dismiss the vehicle as a lemon because a part that was supposed to be replaced wasn't and broke as a result.
'specially on audis. ever done one? i got one in the parking lot. the head just came back from the machine shop. it is the first timing belt i've done on one of these wrecks. it is also the last. it is not worth the money that the job pays, for the hassle it is to do.
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MasonZ,
turn key on,listen for fuel pump,this is a common problem to Protege's and escorts for that matter. Lucky for you it's a non-interference motor and if it's a timming belt it's not as bad as if it was say a honda or toyota.
As someone else said check for spark and fuel if you have both then look at timming belt,you could pull the valve cover off and see if the belt is still there,if it is you could bump the engine and see if it turns or just unraveles.... :D to bump the engine just hit the starter for a second,best to have a helper so you can watch whats going on.
hope that helps,the protege's are pretty good cars but they do have some issues.
:salute
Really? It's common for fuel pumps to fail on Escorts and Mazdas? I'm a master tech with almost 20 years of experience and I can count on two hands the number of Escort fuel pumps I've done (all but one or two of which were on 1990 and older models) and I can't even count the number of Mazda pumps I've done because I don't recall ever doing any!
But otherwise your advice is sound. Remove the oil cap and see if you see the cams move while cranking the engine. If you can't see from there then you can remove the valve cover or remove the top section of the timing cover to see if things are rotating. If not then the timing belt is at fault.
As far as fuel you can remove the fuel cap and put your ear up to the fuel filler neck while someone else turns the key to ON (NOT start). You should hear a quiet whine or buzz for about a second or two. If you hear this then there's a really good chance the fuel pump is just fine.
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'specially on audis. ever done one? i got one in the parking lot. the head just came back from the machine shop. it is the first timing belt i've done on one of these wrecks. it is also the last. it is not worth the money that the job pays, for the hassle it is to do.
Yes they are no fun. Luckily I'm blessed with living in an area where VW/Audi vehicles are extremely rare. This is a big Toyota, Honda, and Ford town!
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I still think it was a UFO
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Tigger,
I live in Canada so our fuels are different up here,this I suspect is the reason you dont see pumps going as often. Likewise with honda transmissions,I bet you see more failure down in the southern states than we do up here.
Seems around the 120000 KM mark or so,about 70 thou it's common to have fuel pump failures here,the difference in the gas is my guess for that.
:salute
PS: up here most cars rot away before the engines die!!!
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Tigger,
I live in Canada so our fuels are different up here,this I suspect is the reason you dont see pumps going as often. Likewise with honda transmissions,I bet you see more failure down in the southern states than we do up here.
Seems around the 120000 KM mark or so,about 70 thou it's common to have fuel pump failures here,the difference in the gas is my guess for that.
:salute
PS: up here most cars rot away before the engines die!!!
Ahh I did not know that you were up north! I didn't mean for what I said to sound like it did I just thought you were relaying some misleading information. Don't get me wrong we do get a lot of fuel pump failures here but the vast majority of them are GM and Ford vehicles (I should say Ford designed vehicles) and Mazdas would be at the very bottom of the list as far as that goes.
I've been told that liquid is liquid and the fuel quality is going to have very little to do with fuel pump life - BUT I have a feeling that extreme cold temperatures may have a bit to do with that as well where you're from!
Anyway I apologize if I came off as harsh. I really should start saying these things out loud before I click on POST. <S>
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CAP, you posted and im all of a sudden getting an edumacation on how to do things :lol
in all seriousness, ill see ifi can get a see at my valves moving when i take off the cap, otherwise ill put in my new headstuds after i take the cover off (still have a broken one frrom a few months back. had no time, nor the tools to bore out the bolt holes [got some ARP head studs, all that were availble] and put them in. now is my excuse.... :devil)
my dad seems to think it could be my fuel pump, so ill have a buddy bring me over or my dad have a listen when i turn the key to ON.
irregardless of the issue, im not overly thrilled about it. hard to get to work, school and EMT class with no car :uhoh
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Tigger,
No worries I wasnt upset but thought I'd qualify my statement. The protege is a ford/mazda design..... :D Oh no here we go again. :rofl :rofl :rofl
FWIW,I think condensation is the culprit and maybe the additives used here,you build up alot of water in the tank during the winter. The resulting slury of water, fuel and rust tend to be hard on electric fuel pumps.
:salute
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Yes they are no fun. Luckily I'm blessed with living in an area where VW/Audi vehicles are extremely rare. This is a big Toyota, Honda, and Ford town!
what i am blessed with, is a fellow flight club member, who owns a shop about 3 miles from me. he must ba a sick bastage, as he likes doing these......so i've talked with him, and will be shipping any of these to him.
i mostly seem to get toyotas, hyundais, fords, chevys, and nissans.
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CAP, you posted and im all of a sudden getting an edumacation on how to do things :lol
in all seriousness, ill see ifi can get a see at my valves moving when i take off the cap, otherwise ill put in my new headstuds after i take the cover off (still have a broken one frrom a few months back. had no time, nor the tools to bore out the bolt holes [got some ARP head studs, all that were availble] and put them in. now is my excuse.... :devil)
my dad seems to think it could be my fuel pump, so ill have a buddy bring me over or my dad have a listen when i turn the key to ON.
irregardless of the issue, im not overly thrilled about it. hard to get to work, school and EMT class with no car :uhoh
if you're gonna try it yourself, i'll pm ya diagrams with the timing marks, and what ever else ya need.
if you do need and put a belt on it, it would be a good idea to do the water pump too.
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if you're gonna try it yourself, i'll pm ya diagrams with the timing marks, and what ever else ya need.
if you do need and put a belt on it, it would be a good idea to do the water pump too.
please and thank you sir. :rock :salute :cheers:
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I still think it was a UFO
+1 :rofl :aok
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please and thank you sir. :rock :salute :cheers:
this is what i have here....i have an actual book(can ya believe itr?!) with better detail at the shop. i'll snap a photo, and get ya the specific order, and the alignment marks.
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/1LTCAP/TK1069900712000Xa.png)
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to hijack my own thread... assuming in a perfect world i get my car all patched up and in good running order and trade it in for 2,000 i may be lookin at a new Fiat 500C. anyone have any expierence with them? back in the late 60's early 70's my dad had a Fiat 124 Sport Coupe and he said it was an amazingly fun car to drive, not assuming anyone here has expierence with the 124 Sport Coupe and a new 500C... but im looking for anything people have heard about them. a 60 month payment at 414 a month i could do right now with my job (but im risking paying for fuel each month unless i dig into my penny jar. wouldnt leave me money for cigs either.. perfect reason to quit other then doing it for my own benefit. :D). that all aside, come summer time i could easily afford it. this is all assuming those that have driven or heard things about the 500C approve of it. its a new car on the market, so im a little hesitant to jump into it if i do go this route. we all know how new things on the market are....
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i think there's a couple guys in here that may have fiat experience. i think that is one i've never worked on.
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Just an FYI, you can pick up a fuel pressure tester pretty cheap and it is a GREAT addition to any tool box. It's often just a schrader valve on the fuel rail. All you do is screw it on and watch the gauge. Saves a LOT of putsing around with the fuel pump, especially if it is in tank.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187896396P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1315117419639 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187896396P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1315117419639)
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to hijack my own thread... assuming in a perfect world i get my car all patched up and in good running order and trade it in for 2,000 i may be lookin at a new Fiat 500C. anyone have any expierence with them? back in the late 60's early 70's my dad had a Fiat 124 Sport Coupe and he said it was an amazingly fun car to drive, not assuming anyone here has expierence with the 124 Sport Coupe and a new 500C... but im looking for anything people have heard about them. a 60 month payment at 414 a month i could do right now with my job (but im risking paying for fuel each month unless i dig into my penny jar. wouldnt leave me money for cigs either.. perfect reason to quit other then doing it for my own benefit. :D). that all aside, come summer time i could easily afford it. this is all assuming those that have driven or heard things about the 500C approve of it. its a new car on the market, so im a little hesitant to jump into it if i do go this route. we all know how new things on the market are....
It's not that new, just new to the US of A. The boys on Top Gear UK love that car.
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Just an FYI, you can pick up a fuel pressure tester pretty cheap and it is a GREAT addition to any tool box. It's often just a schrader valve on the fuel rail. All you do is screw it on and watch the gauge. Saves a LOT of putsing around with the fuel pump, especially if it is in tank.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187896396P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1315117419639 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187896396P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1315117419639)
buddy has a fuel pressure tester. probably gonna hook it up tonight when i get out of work if my dad and i cant narrow it down the old fashioned way of look and listen :D.
It's not that new, just new to the US of A. The boys on Top Gear UK love that car.
did not know this, interesting.
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So, my dad and I tried to start it today for chits and giggles. It almost starts, then dies out immediatly. Its as if its getting fuel but then as it starts it doesn't have an adequete fuel supply. Clogged hose fuel line possibly? if the fuel lines aren't clogged, couldn't it be the ignition module isn't giving my spark plugs enough spark to keep it going? I didn't hear my fjel pump, my dad didn't nor did my buddy whose house its ar, but it must be getting fuel, no? the valves are also moving, checked those too.
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So, my dad and I tried to start it today for chits and giggles. It almost starts, then dies out immediatly. Its as if its getting fuel but then as it starts it doesn't have an adequete fuel supply. Clogged hose fuel line possibly? if the fuel lines aren't clogged, couldn't it be the ignition module isn't giving my spark plugs enough spark to keep it going? I didn't hear my fjel pump, my dad didn't nor did my buddy whose house its ar, but it must be getting fuel, no? the valves are also moving, checked those too.
ok, try this. and wear safety glasses.
1) remove fuel filler cap, place funnel in the filler neck, put your ear at the opening, and have someone cycle the key to the run position. you should hear a hum for about 2 seconds. if not, then have they cycle the key off, then try cranking the engine, while you're still listening. you should hear the humming. if you hear it humming, then your pump, and all of its associated electrical/electronics are ok.
A) if you don't hear the fuel pump running, then check all fuses. there should be 2 fuse boxes. one under the hood, and one under the dash, in the drivers side kick panel. also check the fuel pump relay, which should be in the underhood fuse box. if all fuses, and relays are good, then you're probably looking at a fuel pump. you can verify this, by removing the air intake tube from the throttle body, open the throttle, spray some carb. cleaner in the intake, replace the intake tube(for maf sensor), and crank the engine. it should start for a second. if it does, then fuel pump is the answer. also, don't forget to check the fuel filter.
2)if it didn't start for a moment above, then remove a spark plug wire, stick a screw driver in it, hold the metal part, and have someone crank the engine. :devil :rofl don't do it that way....that was the voices in my head. stick a screw driver in the plug wire, and lay it near something metal, then have someone crank the engine. you should see spark jump the gap. it should be capable of at least 1/4 of an inch.
if you've got no spark, it could be a number of things.
crahkshaft position sensor
camshaft position sensor
distributor(it's been awhile, but if i recall, those sensors are located in the distributor)
blown fuse(you didn't skip checking them in the first step, did ya?)
if you've got good spark, good fuel supply, and you're sure it's not an internal mechanical problem, you would be looking at a bad computer(doubtful, as i've no recolection of ever replacing a mazda computer, and ford computers rarely go bad, although there will be one along shortly to tell you i'm wrong here) or that timing belt.
a quick check on the timing belt can be done, by finding the 2 highest bolts(10mm heads) on the timing cover, and pull it back. look at the slack between the cams. if it's excessive, the belt probably jumped.
use a flashlight to shine down inside the cover, and try to see the teeth. if you can't, have someone "bump" the engine a couple of times, as you look at the teeth. i think you may find some missing.
there's other things it could be, but i just got up, and typed this up real quick. hope it helps some?
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So, my dad and I tried to start it today for chits and giggles. It almost starts, then dies out immediatly. Its as if its getting fuel but then as it starts it doesn't have an adequete fuel supply. Clogged hose fuel line possibly? if the fuel lines aren't clogged, couldn't it be the ignition module isn't giving my spark plugs enough spark to keep it going? I didn't hear my fjel pump, my dad didn't nor did my buddy whose house its ar, but it must be getting fuel, no? the valves are also moving, checked those too.
MaSonZ, did you check the fuel pressure as was suggested? this will tell you if the fuel supply is adequate,you could have a bad fuel filter,clogged,this is a relatively cheap repair.
As for the fiat,we've had them here in Canada for a year or two and well they're serviced at Dodge dealers so I'd be somewhat wary. I'm surprized that you've had so many problems with the Mazda,they're good cars,even if they cost abit more to repair.
Look at it this way,how much will the fiat cost per year,include everything,then find out what it costs to maintain the Mazda. Then bank the difference and in a couple years you'll be able to buy whatever you want! I kept my last car on the road for 13 years,the last 5 years only cost fuel and insurance! I just got a new car........ no payments!!!
YMMV!!!
:salute
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II have a buddy who ha a fuel pressure gauge, but I need to find a day when he's free and im free. It is lookin like I have a fuel pressure problem. I don't have a fuel filter on my car as far as I know. I've gone to a couple napa stores and a local small business auto store and none of the, @ould find a fuel filter for it anywhere. Maybe cap can shine some light and tell me whether this is so or not.
As for finding the yearly cost... I've put in an average of 6kthe a year for my car. If I do the fiat route just for payments I would be paying 4932. Gets the fuel economy, but on high test fuel... so I would be paying a little more there. Insurance would be the breaking point. Right now im around 2kschool a year for insurance I believe for my car. Don't have a quote for the fiat if I do it.
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II have a buddy who ha a fuel pressure gauge, but I need to find a day when he's free and im free. It is lookin like I have a fuel pressure problem. I don't have a fuel filter on my car as far as I know. I've gone to a couple napa stores and a local small business auto store and none of the, @ould find a fuel filter for it anywhere. Maybe cap can shine some light and tell me whether this is so or not.
As for finding the yearly cost... I've put in an average of 6kthe a year for my car. If I do the fiat route just for payments I would be paying 4932. Gets the fuel economy, but on high test fuel... so I would be paying a little more there. Insurance would be the breaking point. Right now im around 2kschool a year for insurance I believe for my car. Don't have a quote for the fiat if I do it.
what got you to the point of thinking fuel pressure?
the fuel filter on this car should either be on the firewall, or underneath the car, near the tank. it should still have one though, although some cars do not anymore.
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what got you to the point of thinking fuel pressure?
the fuel filter on this car should either be on the firewall, or underneath the car, near the tank. it should still have one though, although some cars do not anymore.
it just about starts, and then dies when it would normally start. Lack of fuel pressure can not keep an engine running, correct? Everything else checks out so far, haven't checked my plugs yet, but assuming they're good what else could it be?
About the fuel filter, either they're a pita to find, or my car doesn't have one like some other odd job cars.
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it just about starts, and then dies when it would normally start. Lack of fuel pressure can not keep an engine running, correct? Everything else checks out so far, haven't checked my plugs yet, but assuming they're good what else could it be?
About the fuel filter, either they're a pita to find, or my car doesn't have one like some other odd job cars.
a quick test to see if it's a fuel problem, is to spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body, then crank the engine. if fuel pressure is the problem, then it'll start for a second. be careful of backfires though. i did this method with a 2.2 chevy engine, and cooked half of an eyebrow off. :x
a timing belt that's jumped a tooth or 2 can do this too. also, a bad crank position sensor or a bad cam position sensor can. stick with the easy stuff like you are first though. :aok
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a quick test to see if it's a fuel problem, is to spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body, then crank the engine. if fuel pressure is the problem, then it'll start for a second. be careful of backfires though. i did this method with a 2.2 chevy engine, and cooked half of an eyebrow off. :x
a timing belt that's jumped a tooth or 2 can do this too. also, a bad crank position sensor or a bad cam position sensor can. stick with the easy stuff like you are first though. :aok
remember reading about your cookd eyebrow... think ill have my brother shoot some carb cleaner into her, doubt hell get my point of why hes doing it unless it backfires :rofl
i dont wanna mess around with my timing any... but if it comes to it i dont have much of a choice. can you throw up some pics of the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor are for my car? dont mean to make oyu do all the research for me, i would love to buy a Haynes repair book....but no money to do that with. :cry
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remember reading about your cookd eyebrow... think ill have my brother shoot some carb cleaner into her, doubt hell get my point of why hes doing it unless it backfires :rofl
i dont wanna mess around with my timing any... but if it comes to it i dont have much of a choice. can you throw up some pics of the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor are for my car? dont mean to make oyu do all the research for me, i would love to buy a Haynes repair book....but no money to do that with. :cry
the crank position sensor is inside the timing cover(i think on this one), down at the crankshaft. it triggers off of a trigger wheel that's behind the timing belt sprocket.
the cam position sensor, i think is on the exhaust cam..........
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good deal. my list gets bigger as i narrow things down :rofl some day ill figure out whats wrong....