Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: FBCyPi on December 23, 2014, 11:56:21 AM
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It seems like my nose is all over the plave when I shoot the guns n about any aircraft. I've played with the advanced settings. I need help
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First, relax, don't try so hard. Don't move around much when you fire. Lead your target a bit and let them fly through your bullet stream, make a small adjustment fire again. Don't fire your guns and manuver at the same time until you can develop a light touch on the stick.
Go into the training arena and ask someone to be a target for you to practice your gunnery. In the TA you can see the "hit sprites" but no damage is taken so you can fire away and really fine tune your gunnery.
Stick settings are also important. You want to map your stick to help you keep steady and not overcompensate. My settings allow less movement initially and then they allow harder movements as you pull the stick farther.
Lastly, thanks for playing Aces High, it's a great game. Be patient with yourself.
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It seems like my nose is all over the plave when I shoot the guns n about any aircraft. I've played with the advanced settings. I need help
What type of controller are you using to play the game with?, if I may ask.
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Shooting down the offline drones might be a good way to improve steadying your aim.
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+1 Zoney
It took me awhile to tweek my joystick settings (input scaling more on the low end to reduce jittery movements due to a loose stick, and increasing the dead-band on my rudder axis to ensure I wasn't inadvertently inputting rudder commands on sloppy stick control inputs)
It will take some trial and error to fine tune this, but my gunnery skillz have improved because of it.
1 because I was practicing!!!
2. because I was more aware of my erroneous joystick inputs once viewing the live vs modified inputs
3. Short controlled bursts, THEN make adjustments.. Don't try to put the whole stream into a target, make the target enter you burst stream via proper lead technique.
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It seems like my nose is all over the plave when I shoot the guns n about any aircraft. I've played with the advanced settings. I need help
If you are having nose bounce,you will need to look at pitch and yaw axises.
If you are using a twist stick then it's likely the yaw that is causing the nose to move around.Simply pulling the trigger can cause unwanted rudder input,then you will try to correct and it's a loosing game.
There are a couple things you can do to help,you can increase deadpan for the yaw and or pitch axis. You can add dampening to these same axises although the dampening will effect the whole axis so be careful not to add too much dampening.
Or you can enable scaling and try to use the sliders to dial out the initial inputs so when you pull the trigger you dont cause movement on the axis that is causing the nose bounce. If you have rudder pedals then you likely only need look at the pitch axis!
If you are still having issues,come see me after the holidays in the TA,I'm there most week nights between 9pm and 11pm est. I can fly behind you and watch what's happening and further advise you on some adjustment that may be needed.
:salute
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There is some very good advice here already, especially WRT to stick scaling and the smooth lead anticipation. Once you have those things dialed in the next key is practice. Then more practice.
I would get with a trainer, like Morfiend, who can walk you through some of the scaling steps and practice shooting. Likewise, if you see me online (in game: RynoRush), please feel free to ask for assistance. You can even PM me in the MA, as I will often set aside time to go in the TA and work with people on gunnery issues.
Part of the introduction to gunnery course I put together deals with identifying scaling issues specifically, in part through an "aim small, miss small" exercise. It is meant to see how precisely you can hold a given sight picture, which often exposes scaling issues.
A couple tips with regard to "nose bounce" and "wobble":
In addition to stick scaling, elevator trim can have an effect on your nose bounce -- particularly if you have flaps in. Getting your plane trimmed well can help with this some so you can be smoother on the controls. Combat trim does not account for flaps usage, so if you feel like you are "fighting the stick" some, like you have to shove forward stick to keep the nose level, it's your trim fighting you. If you are experiencing this with flaps in, turn your combat trim off especially while shooting. Morfiend is also quite good at helping to dial in trim settings for various aircraft, so you may want to consult with him for a better explanation of how to set that up.
Also as Morf said, rudder can also be an issue. Even if you don't have unwanted rudder input (a small deadband setting usually helps with that), a good scaling of your rudder is also important, because you don't want to "over-kick" and have to adjust rudder back and forth while shooting. If you do, you may notice some "wobble" in the yaw plane, even after centering the rudder. The best technique I have found for using the rudder to aim is to try to use smooth input and hold the rudder input while shooting. If you kick rudder to move the nose and then release it before you shoot, you may see the wobble I am referring to. While this is less impactive on dead-six shooting than vertical nose bounce can be, it does affect your bullet concentration, especially at ranges outside of your set convergence.
Hope this helps and that you are able to follow up with someone in the TA.
<S>
Ryno
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Before taking any player's advice, go look up their accuracy statistics for the last few tours. Everyone has an opinion on how to shoot, but there are very, very few actually-good shots in the game. Look for players maintaining an 9-10% or better hit percentage across several hundred kills (not just someone who ups for three missions and kills a few bombers). You'll want to make sure you're learning from those who are experts at combat shooting, not those who are repeating second-hand information or those who shoot primarily in closed, controlled environments.
Also, unless you have a worn out or otherwise-faulty joystick, do not use scaling, dampening, etc. Just my .02.
Here's my advice from a previous thread.
If you want to get good at shooting, and want to do so quickly, then do this:
- Turn your scaling off on all axes.
- Turn your dampening to zero.
- Turn your deadzone down to zero (unless you have a loose joystick or a joystick that won't truly return to zero).
These simply serve as crutches 99% of the time and teach bad gunnery habits; with the exception of the deadzone, they all inherently promote sloppy control of the joystick. There are some players who have legitimate uses for them, but those cases are rare and far between.
The aim small, miss small idea of trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft does not work either. It works fine in non-combat and training situations, but the second you introduce stress, you'll find it becomes unreliable. In a higher-stress situation (such as the adrenaline rush from wanting to win a dogfight), fine motor control goes out the window. All that is left is coarse motor control. Want to see this in action? Run for 30 seconds and then hold a pen, as if you were trying to write with it, and attempt to keep it perfectly still for 10 seconds - you can't. This is loss of fine motor control and it happens when you undergo stress, regardless of whether it's for positive or negative reasons.
Take that same pen, grip it in your fist (like a hammer), and try to hold it still - you'll find this is much easier. This is coarse (or gross) motor control. You will fall back to your default level of coarse motor control in a stressful situation.
Not surprisingly, this is also what is taught in most real-life advanced weapon-manipulation training courses.
What you want to do is make your stick ultra-sensitive with a direct input ratio (i.e. no scaling). You'll find that it will feel very jumpy and almost unusable at first, but you'll also discover that, after a bit of practice, you can quickly adjust to rough guesstimates and be able to hold them rock-steady. Because of the direct scaling, there's no "learning" curve - it's intuitive. Half-stick, half-deflection; full-stick, full-deflection; and so on. Once you have this down, simply pull lead, then walk your shot in. Leave tracers on for this reason. This is the same method that was taught for using the F-16's cannon back in the 90's.
Some players will advise to unload before shooting - do not do this; it teaches bad habits that, while making it easier to get some shots, puts you in a less advantageous position should you miss your shot and makes it less repeatable. If you're familiar with real-world long range marksmanship, you'll recall that you "load" your bipod for the same reasons. Keeping consistent stick pressure is the gaming equivalent of loading a bipod.
Also, leave your tracers on. Turning them off is for those who have mastered gunnery (and no one that I've seen yet has). With tracers off, the best thing that can happen is you can hit your opponent; however, if you miss, you have no idea how much you're missing by. Ergo, your misses with tracers off become worse and it tends to make you a worse shot, especially at high deflection angles or at long distance. Conversely, with tracers on, good shots will remain good shots; however, when you miss, you can see immediately how much you're missing by and adjust. There's no downside to using tracers. Giving away your position or intention is also BS, as a good opponent will be aware of where you are and what tactics might be available for you to use. Simply leave them on.
TL;DR - Summarized: Take out all of the post-processing of your joystick input - it simply serves to "confuse" your natural reflexes and makes it harder to learn what is somewhat intuitive. Focus on quickly pulling the "rough" amount of lead needed over the center mass of the aircraft, fire, and then walk your shot in. You'll find it immensely easier to learn to shoot. And leave your tracers on.
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Before taking any player's advice, go look up their accuracy statistics for the last few tours. Everyone has an opinion on how to shoot, but there are very, very few actually-good shots in the game. Look for players maintaining an 9-10% or better hit percentage across several hundred kills (not just someone who ups for three missions and kills a few bombers). You'll want to make sure you're learning from those who are experts at combat shooting, not those who are repeating second-hand information or those who shoot primarily in closed, controlled environments.
Also, unless you have a worn out or otherwise-faulty joystick, do not use scaling, dampening, etc. Just my .02.
Here's my advice from a previous thread.
Skyrr,
Did you even read the OP? He's looking for help in eliminating his "nose bounce" my term not his,he calls it nose wandering but it amounts to the same issue. He didnt ask how to shoot or how to improve,he is simply asking if it's possible to address the nose wandering while shooting.
While your advice may help someone with top notch equipment,not everyone has that luxury and often must make do with what they have.
You can call it a crutch,or gamey all you like,fact is some input devices may need the "crutch" regardless of what you may think!
:salute
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My gunnery has not been what it had been in the past, I think its because of my new setup
(http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r561/folanjohnp1/simulator_zps7483da57.jpg)
Anyone have any experience with this?
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My gunnery has not been what it had been in the past, I think its because of my new setup
(http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r561/folanjohnp1/simulator_zps7483da57.jpg)
Anyone have any experience with this?
Whoa.
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Skyrr,
Did you even read the OP? He's looking for help in eliminating his "nose bounce" my term not his,he calls it nose wandering but it amounts to the same issue. He didnt ask how to shoot or how to improve,he is simply asking if it's possible to address the nose wandering while shooting.
While your advice may help someone with top notch equipment,not everyone has that luxury and often must make do with what they have.
You can call it a crutch,or gamey all you like,fact is some input devices may need the "crutch" regardless of what you may think!
:salute
I did read the post. In my experience, nose bounce can be attributed to one of two things:
1. A loose stick that won't return to origin
2. Poor control of the joystick
Unless the OP has a worn out or otherwise wandering joystick (as I've had happen to some of my joysticks), then nose bounce is due to control technique (and it almost always is).
Assuming that it's not a faulty or worn out stick, the correct action is to address the method of control input. Messing with dampening, input curves, etc. is simply putting a bandaid on the underlying issue. Further, by doing so, it allows a player to continue bad habits while having the game settings correct them. This creates a false sense of security in one's control. The suggestions in my post address this.
I quoted the post simply as it was easier than typing up a new reply, as it covered the issue in question (as well as addressing a few other aspects).
Also, I meant no offense to anyone who uses input post-processing (what the AH joystick curves and settings are). The fact is, however, that those who use those settings will never be able to reach the same level of control and control speed as those who use raw input. Additionally, raw input is typically processed at a 1:1 movement ratio, making flying and shooting much more intuitive once the pilot adjusts to it.
Someone using input curves in AH would have to practice over and over and over to gain the correct muscle memory to make, for example, a shot requiring them to apply 62% of their available rudder authority, simply because 62% isn't a a value you can quickly and efficiently calculate on the fly. 62% movement with scaled curves might correspond to 70% movement, 49% movement, 80%, etc. - it could be any value based on the curves. With direct input (no curves), you know immediately that a 62% rudder movement requires moving your rudder input 62%, or roughly 6/10's of its full range of motion. It allows the player to input controls quicker and more accurately the first time, especially newer players, once they adjust to the heightened sensitivity.
Again, this assumes the OP's joystick isn't the issue. If it is, then increasing the deadzone is usually the best way to solve the problem.
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Using "dead zone", exclusively, to solve errant stick inputs is not a good idea. When you have errant inputs, such as those from a noisy or loose stick, use both damping and dead zone. Why? Dead zone is brutal. Damping is soft.
Damping, at its smallest amount will solve low errant inputs without dead zone. Damping just decelerates the input. The amount, in its least amount will not have a noticeable impact on reaction between input and motion.
Dead zone ignores a percentage of input around the last position of the stick. Small inputs are completely lost. Too much dead zone can cause you to overreact to compensate for the lack of motion.
Neither feature stops the stick from reaching full deflection. It just alters how it gets there.
The best way to see if you are having the correct impact is to pay attention to the graphs in the "Advanced" panel. The one on the left is the raw input. The one on the right is the corrected input. Adjust the sliders using small increments, as a little of either goes a long way.
While advice on this can be helpful, one needs to approach these features as something you need to get right for yourself. Every pilot is different. Every stick is different. Do what works best for you.
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It seems like my nose is all over the plave when I shoot the guns n about any aircraft. I've played with the advanced settings. I need help
In addition to the suggestions provided, have you tried trimming slightly nose down?
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While advice on this can be helpful, one needs to approach these features as something you need to get right for yourself. Every pilot is different. Every stick is different. Do what works best for you.
This to me is the most important part, "Do what works best for you"!
It's the reason I offered to meet up with the OP,I know that every player is different and no 2 sticks are exactly the same.This is particularly true with twist types,simply pulling the trigger can cause unwanted rudder inputs.
Over the years I have seen this more often than I can count,sometimes it's just hamfisting on the players part and they need to learn to relax and fly smooth. However often it's the input device and the game is able to correct most issues unless the JS is totally shot.
BTW I use no dampening or deadpan on any axis,I have a slight scaling on my rudder pedals,because I have 2 left feet! I usually suggest that the player tries to use as little amount of scaling as possible and what will work best for them!
I may not be a CFI but I stayed at a holiday inn last night!
:salute
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get comfortable with leading a target offline or in the training arena. In game, trust you training and keep a steady aim. if you don't have a steady hand try flying with you fingers and try to limit your inputs.
GL
:salute
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The aim small, miss small idea of trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft does not work either. It works fine in non-combat and training situations, but the second you introduce stress, you'll find it becomes unreliable. In a higher-stress situation (such as the adrenaline rush from wanting to win a dogfight), fine motor control goes out the window. All that is left is coarse motor control. Want to see this in action? Run for 30 seconds and then hold a pen, as if you were trying to write with it, and attempt to keep it perfectly still for 10 seconds - you can't. This is loss of fine motor control and it happens when you undergo stress, regardless of whether it's for positive or negative reasons.
Since some of these comments appear directed at me and, in particular, the name of one of my introductory gunnery exercises, I will respond to this. (There are additional opinions stated with the quoted comment that are also misleading, but don't apply to the OP, so I will refrain from debating them here.)
With regard to the exercise that I named "aim small, miss small" or "take the gear off the Mossie", at no time am I suggesting that this exercise is meant to teach or promote "trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft" during fighter combat. That assumption would be entirely incorrect.
The purpose of the exercise, which is clearly stated at the beginning, is primarily to measure and hone the ability to "fly smoothly" to the shot. It uses aiming and shooting at a very small target to determine the level of ability to hold a stick steady under the simulated stress/pressure of a test and provides one way to further train that ability through practice. Players who struggle with flying smoothly are quickly identified during the exercise, and they are told that they can improve their stick control either through scaling (if they wish) or through practicing exercises like this one to hone their stick control skill.
In addition to flying smoothly, there are also other aspects of gunnery introduced via this exercise that I believe come in helpful later on, but none of them involve "trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft" during fighter combat.
I hope this clears up this misinterpretation.
<S>
Ryno
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I may not be a CFI but I stayed at a holiday inn last night!
:salute
:rofl
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how does the lead gunsight in game work it usually shows 2 different crosshairs in my p39 and i don't know what to aim for :bhead
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one crosshair is the primary guns the other is the secondary. You have to guess which is which :devil
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CyPi gets flap-happy
Such a thing is why he has a bouncy nose on crossing-shots and even rear-quarter shots.
He has a bit of a flap-addiction which tethers him to mostly American rides or rides with combat flaps and keeps him away from flying 190's. In short he has trouble with the idea of yo-yos and how they work.
Two things:
Calm down and breathe. People can catch themselves holding their breath while over-concentrating or making split-second decisions. I learned this from playing Billiards of all things. Like practicing your stroke in Billiards, you must practice smooth relaxed flying which leads to number 2.
Spend a little time offline or in the TA flying through fighter hangers. Do a few sets working with efficient turns featuring high yo-yos. Work on making the turn as quickly as possible trying to retain the most energy. After that or back and forth do a few sets of tight tactical turns using flaps or coordinated turns. This will require some throttle work. Your goal is to make your turn and fast as possible and to have no nose bounce by the time you fly into the fighter hanger.
Once you get a consistent feel do a few mock fights in-between sets to work what you learned into your combat.
Hint: You don't have to have your flaps out the entire turn, flaps are not a substitute for energy.
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Spend a little time offline or in the TA flying through fighter hangers. Do a few sets working with efficient turns featuring high yo-yos. Work on making the turn as quickly as possible trying to retain the most energy. After that or back and forth do a few sets of tight tactical turns using flaps or coordinated turns. This will require some throttle work. Your goal is to make your turn and fast as possible and to have no nose bounce by the time you fly into the fighter hanger.
I like this one. :aok
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Spend a little time offline or in the TA flying through fighter hangers. Do a few sets working with efficient turns featuring high yo-yos. Work on making the turn as quickly as possible trying to retain the most energy. After that or back and forth do a few sets of tight tactical turns using flaps or coordinated turns. This will require some throttle work. Your goal is to make your turn and fast as possible and to have no nose bounce by the time you fly into the fighter hanger.
Good suggestion, Crabby. In addition to getting used to the stick input to fly smooth and level, flying through hangers with flaps out is also a good way to "dial in" your analog elevator trim wheel (if you are using one) so that when you toggle off combat trim you are not fighting to push the nose down as much.
I have a little routine I do involving precisely what Crabby is talking about, flying through 4 hangers at A1 in the TA, using lag displacement rolls and yo-yos to maneuver from one hanger to the next without really leaving the perimeter of the field. It's fun to fly though the small fighter hanger, then do a quick displacement roll to the left to line up on the hanger on the opposite side of the field. It's a nice little warm-up that also helps let me know if I have my gear calibrated for smooth flight. I do it both with flaps out and flaps retracted and at full throttle and half throttle.
<S>
Ryno
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Different brands of sticks react different from each other. I used to fly with a sytech cyborg evo and the control inputs were very fast and bouncy. I later upgraded to Ch gear and with the same stick scaling the Ch gear was much slower and smoother than the sytech. It made a world of difference. What stick are you using?
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heres another dumb question how come when i fire right on the crosshair of the lead computing gunsight it still misses? :headscratch:
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heres another dumb question how come when i fire right on the crosshair of the lead computing gunsight it still misses? :headscratch:
For that P39, to hit with the 37mm aim at the one farthest in front of the enemy
Also I have been offline and I have noticed that the gunsight has been off before.
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heres another dumb question how come when i fire right on the crosshair of the lead computing gunsight it still misses? :headscratch:
Solution: get a better plane. Like a 152. P39s are garbage.
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Solution: get a better plane. Like a 152. P39s are garbage.
Yes! Something that might be able to escape a boston :old:
"Might"
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Yes! Something that might be able to escape a boston :old:
"Might"
HEY I WAS BLACKED OUT OK :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead
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HEY I WAS BLACKED OUT OK :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead
The twitfire died too trying to save you :old:
Twitfire get no mercy from bebe monster :old:
Twitfires are the gingers of AH, they have no soul :old: That is why Bruv likes them :old:
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The twitfire died too trying to save you :old:
Twitfire get no mercy from bebe monster :old:
Twitfires are the gingers of AH, they have no soul :old: That is why Bruv likes them :old:
I'm just amazed how two spit 16s (or whatever the other noob ride was) failed to kill a Boston for 15 seconds while I desperately tried to escape with my 15 picks. :cry
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The twitfire died too trying to save you :old:
Twitfire get no mercy from bebe monster :old:
Twitfires are the gingers of AH, they have no soul :old: That is why Bruv likes them :old:
Except for the Seafire! :old: :D
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heres another dumb question how come when i fire right on the crosshair of the lead computing gunsight it still misses? :headscratch:
Try this one to scratch your head over. Offline shoot the left wing off a drone. Then turn on the LCG and fall back to about 600. Then shoot and watch your rounds pass through where the left wing once was. In many cases I've moved the pipper inside of the lead distance the LCG indicates and the drone blows up rather than just loose a wing.
When you have two crosses and you are shooting a heavy cannon with MG. The cross leading the farthest away from the drone is the cannon. Except for the 30mm and above, at 400 and closer your crosses should be almost on top of each other.
At that point what matters is the rate of fire difference and round velocity.
Try against the offline drones firing only the cannon then the MG and the number of rounds that land in the same firing interval are very different. This is why so many players complain about they lit someone up nose to tail and got nothing. It's possible inside of 400 you only lit the con up with MG while a cannon missed in front and one missed behind. And all the rest passed through where the con used to be.
Then you enter the realm of "Lead Shooting" versus deflection allowance.
Rule of thumb, lead by enough radii so "And all the rest passed through where the con used to be." is passing through where the con will fly into it. Or, will be......if you are shooting him from 45-90 degrees of your line of travel. That is "Lead Shooting" or what we term a "snap shot" in the game. Deflection allowance is why you leave your tracers on while you use your rudder to try and correct the stream into the con from 5-35 degrees of your line of travel. Like what you mostly practice offline against the drones.
Deflection allowance is always screwed by the speed you are flying at and how much you are pulling your nose in any direction to land rounds. These states increase the G force on the round causing it to have a lower IP point if you are not flying straight and level. That visual illusion of the rounds bending back and down behind the turning con you are trying to hammer. One of the reasons for learning to fly with the ball in the center.........
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The twitfire died too trying to save you :old:
Twitfire get no mercy from bebe monster :old:
Twitfires are the gingers of AH, they have no soul :old: That is why Bruv likes them :old:
:lol
gingers and people without souls need love too.
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Thanks to Ryno, Krab, and yes...Skyyr.....for their input here.
Skyyr is advocating no scaling, simply raw input. Were one to try that, where would the sliders be? Full up or full down? And this is for EVERY axis?
I dunno if I will ever be able to handle that with any degree of fidelity.
One problem I find is when I get slow in the vertical chasing a bad guy who is trying to rope me....my nose just oscillates all to hell and gone, even, it seems, with very little or NO input. It is maddening to miss a P-38 at D200.
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Getting the thread back on track lol...
The whole scaling thing doesn't help the OP's main issue...
CyPi unfortunately uses a 3D pro that seems to be on its last legs, and the flap-happy thing is understandable when a jumpy stick begins to hurt gameplay and the pilot desperately searches for some kind of stability. Sure there is dampening and of course messing with deadband that would only prolong the inevitable. However he does have the luxury of having a separate throttle and will be investing in a new stick very soon. Hopefully he might throw a few bucks at it and get at least a Tier 2 stick like the x52 :x
Back to the instability, I flew for a little while with him and another squaddie in the training arena and the stick issue became obvious. When he did something as simple as a flat turn in a Corsair you can actually see the violent jump in the elevators before of course knocking on a squirrels door. Looking forward to when he gets a new stick! :joystick:
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Skyyr is advocating no scaling, simply raw input. Were one to try that, where would the sliders be? Full up or full down? And this is for EVERY axis?
Full up (or simply uncheck the "scaling" box).
I can say my gunnery in another game improved when I disabled all scaling...but my stalling went up quite a bit too. :cry
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Thanks to Ryno, Krab, and yes...Skyyr.....for their input here.
Skyyr is advocating no scaling, simply raw input. Were one to try that, where would the sliders be? Full up or full down? And this is for EVERY axis?
I dunno if I will ever be able to handle that with any degree of fidelity.
One problem I find is when I get slow in the vertical chasing a bad guy who is trying to rope me....my nose just oscillates all to hell and gone, even, it seems, with very little or NO input. It is maddening to miss a P-38 at D200.
It's not about holding your nose on the guy, it's about quickly aiming where the opponent will be and letting the opponent fly through your gunsight. Doing this will greatly help reduce your overall movement, as you're no longer moving to match your opponent. Once you get it down, you don't even have to use your gunsight anymore, and you can do it simply based on angles.
See example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAO2Np5-UAI
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Which stick o you use Skyyr?
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Which stick o you use Skyyr?
Microsoft Force Feedback 2.
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Never tried the FF but did own one or two MS Precision Pro 2. I recall it being extremely smooth vs some low & hi end Saitek sticks and the CH Fighterstick I've had for a number of years.
I asked because I tried the no scaling suggestion and had a pretty rough time of it. Granted, a week or two is probably needed to re-learn the sensitivity.
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The Microsoft sticks were some of the best sticks ever made in terms of durability and stability. CH used to be that good as well. I have yet to find another brand which did not have some input noise, after a couple of months of use.
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Agreed. Big time.
CH made a fantastic force feedback stick as well, similar to the combat/fighterstick but with a huge base, and great motors and such. AckAck has good info I'm sure, it's been so long since I had mine - Mr Fork had one back in 2000 as well.
IMO nothing beats a good CH stick for precision and learning to be a good shot. The Microsoft stick of old is close to the same as well, but my personal pref is the CH still. I've had all the Saiteks from the x36 onwards, I have a Warthog with custom Euro/Steel pedals on my DCS system, and have owned every HOTAS set out there I think since they started making them. IMO CH is overall the easiest to aim with in a game like AH, with several others being right up there as well, like the Microsoft and such.
One thing I would say that when trying to figure out your shooting technique, is don't zoom for the first little while, as it can really mess up your predictive lead and such at first. Also, don't just focus on learning to get your gunsite in front of the target and let him fly through your stream, practice hitting him with the first shot out of your guns - the 30mm is great for training this offline or in the TA, practice trying to get that first shot to connect. It is another tool in your toolbox, and a great skill to train alongside learning how much to lead and have the target fly through your burst.
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The Microsoft sticks were some of the best sticks ever made in terms of durability and stability. CH used to be that good as well. I have yet to find another brand which did not have some input noise, after a couple of months of use.
My old MS Sidewinder had zero spiking or noise right to the day I sold it on eBay 2 months ago aND it's well over 10 years old.
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My old MS Sidewinder had zero spiking or noise right to the day I sold it on eBay 2 months ago aND it's well over 10 years old.
I just bought another MSFFB2, like new, for $45 shipped. :banana:
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I just bought another MSFFB2, like new, for $45 shipped. :banana:
:aok
I miss having FFB...but I'll stick with the Mamba for now.
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OOOps Sorry can;t cancel this post :O
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I tried what Skyrr suggested. I had problems with the computer freezing my controls and posting don't move your controls so fast. Being a right handed Tennis Pro for 30 years every thing on my right side is stronger than the left. When I'm flying to my destination I must constantly check my rudder. Most of the time my rudder pedal has been pushed in half way on the right leg. I don't know I'm doing it. Its just the strong side thing taking over.
And we were taught just the opposite of using the big muscles vs the small muscles. Like a baseball pitcher or golfer. They all use there fingers (small twitch muscles) vs. Grabbing ball, golf club, tennis racket using the fingers. When Girls throw they get the ball way down in there palm, wrap there fingers around it and squeeze HARD, then pull back and let it fly........right down into the ground in front of them. Pro golfers increase swing speed by holding the grip LIGHTLY in there FINGERS but yet swing over 100 mph. Same with pitchers. Same with Tennis Pros. The Pros in these sports learn to POP there wrist just like we all did growing up and popping towels on each other. Do you remember? You didn't grab the towel hard and strain your large muscles. You would pop or snap the wrist using your fingers lightly. Every time I squeeze the stick hard and try to direct the plane with my arm muscles........the piper wobbles bobbles and floats every where but where I want it. If I relax and use my fingers I do much better. The only problem is not one company has built a stick that will accommodate finger useage. You can try it and almost pull it of but you can reach all the buttons. Oh well maybe we are making progress on how to get better!
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I modified my fighter stick by placing tension bands over the return spring yokes. This effectively locks the stick to center allowing finger or wrist motion small movements. But, how do you translate those small movements into large game movements?
You shorten the ends of the calibration line in your x,y lines of your joystick.jsm file. At which point you don't really need to calibrate anymore. Any problems will then be USB bus resets or your pots are going bad.
From my jsm file years ago when I used to calibrate inside of the game for my Fighterstick and had big sloppy movements:
255 - far left throw or, all the way pulled back.
32767 - center
65535 - far right throw or, all the way pushed forward.
X Axis
255,32767,65535,0.000000,0.000000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,0
AXIS,ROLL,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Y Axis
255,32767,65535,0.000000,0.000000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,0
AXIS,PITCH,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Modified by shortening the ends of the throw by 16,000 to allow a short throw with wrist movement only after adding tension bands to the spring yokes. Yes you can just move your stick in shorter throws in all four directions but, your results wont be very precise.
X Axis
16547,32767,48987,0.016000,0.128000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.64,0.68,0.81,0.91,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00
AXIS,ROLL,0,0
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.62,0.66,0.72,0.83,0.96,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00
NOTUSED,NOTUSED,0,0
Y Axis
16559,32767,48975,0.000000,0.096000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.46,0.46,0.50,0.56,0.67,0.79,0.92,1.00,1.00,1.00
AXIS,PITCH,0,0
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.60,0.61,0.64,0.68,0.78,0.88,1.00,0.99,1.00,1.0
You do have to compensate the ability to perform a full deflection movement with a short wrist motion by using scaling to calibrate the length of your shortened axis movement. Otherwise, your spit16 is always flipped on it's back or stalled out and useless. But, you can get some very precise small correction movements when zoomed for gunnery.