Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: fuzeman on September 09, 2022, 06:03:03 PM
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Working on my van and my gift of a impact wrench makes the most impact when I drop it on the ground after not budging a nut. Wont even take a lug nut off at 90 ft/lbs. :bhead
What kind do you have / had that didn't cost an arm and a leg and had working impact / torque and were satisfied with? And my sockets are 1/2” drive.
Last one was pnewmaa, air powered but a new battery one would be more user friendly, I suppose.
Thanks for your opinions, if relevant :aok
Edited- I’m a marOOn, Impact wrench :rofl
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torque wrenches are used for tightening, I thought.
'
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Torque wrenches should never be used to remove nuts. They are only for tightening. I think you should try an impact driver?
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Tighten the bolt until it snaps in half then go back half a turn.
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Pointing out my oopsies said the marOOn.
Impact wrench.
Take two.
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Ive used a 3/4" impact before and that didnt budge nuts. Ended up using a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pipe to do it
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I see more and more mechanics use battery powered impact drivers for such things
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torque wrenches are used for tightening, I thought.
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Correct.
Coogan
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Flame wrench.
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:rofl
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Ive used a 3/4" impact before and that didnt budge nuts. Ended up using a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pipe to do it
Yep and that’s what I’ve been doing. Last battle the Pipe Wrench beat the Leaf Spring Bolts 2-0.
I guess the impact sockets wont go to waste.
Early responses refer to torque wrench and not impact wrench as I mixed em up to begin the thread but caught it early enough to modify most of it.
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I have a Dewalt 1/2" 20v max that spins off the lug nuts on my truck no problem ( installed @ 125 ftlb with a torque wrench)
Sent from my SM-A015U using Tapatalk
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Just to be clear, the Dewalt impact was also able to remove the shackle bolts, eye bolts, and U-bolts on a '91 F350. I had to hammer some of them pretty hard, but the truck is thirty years old.
I bought the Dewalt specifically to do the job. I have a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact, but the little compressor I currently have can hardly keep up with it. The Dewalt with a 5 amp/hour battery was able to remove all the suspension bolts on both driver and passenger sides as well as all sixteen of the lugs nuts on a single charge. The one I have wasn't exactly cheap at somewhere around $240, plus the cost of the battery. I got the version with the hog ring anvil as they are stronger than the detent pin type.
You should always use impact sockets when using an impact tool. The more powerful impact drivers can destroy a standard socket faster than you can say whoops.
:cheers:
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Flame wrench.
How about THIS? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph5Dqp3UqxA.)
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Just to be clear, the Dewalt impact was also able to remove the shackle bolts, eye bolts, and U-bolts on a '91 F350. I had to hammer some of them pretty hard, but the truck is thirty years old.
I bought the Dewalt specifically to do the job. I have a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact, but the little compressor I currently have can hardly keep up with it. The Dewalt with a 5 amp/hour battery was able to remove all the suspension bolts on both driver and passenger sides as well as all sixteen of the lugs nuts on a single charge. The one I have wasn't exactly cheap at somewhere around $240, plus the cost of the battery. I got the version with the hog ring anvil as they are stronger than the detent pin type.
You should always use impact sockets when using an impact tool. The more powerful impact drivers can destroy a standard socket faster than you can say whoops.
:cheers:
I can vouch for that. Cracked a cheap no name socket on a breaker bar while taking a lug nut off a tire on a utility trailer
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Thanks SIK1, that’s what I was looking for. Mine 28 and in a rust belt. Kind of pricy for one to ‘have on hand’ opposed to ‘needed a few times a week’ situation.
GasTeddy not at that stage!! yet. :D
I bent a short 1/2” Craftsman breaker bar on a lug nut long ago. I now just have the shop tighten them and I do torque them with my torque wrench. Using current references; looked like it had pyronnes disease but got healed and straightened out on my u-bolts.
( Sorry, just cant resist…. ‘ Dat’s nota my bolt, dat’s a u-bolt’. )
Some know what kind of van I have but I’ll spare the laughter that usually follows this time and not say. :aok
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A couple questions that came to mind was not only what rating (ft lbs) you need but also how often you use it. If you use it daily then go with a decent name brand. If it is once in a blue moon kinda thing, go with something from harbor freight.
There is a you tube channel called donut media and they do automotive related stuff. A lot of comedy to be sure but they also do comparisons. IIRC they did an impact wrench comparison a little while back. Maybe watching that one will help make the choice.
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I just use a Ridgid brand battery powered impact driver. Only things I've encountered that it wouldn't loosen up was the kingpin bolts on one of my go karts. I discovered how useful it was when I was working on the sprocket/wheel hubs on said go kart. Saved me literally hours of slaving with a socket and a box wrench, and I've never looked back since.
For lug nuts though? Definitely go air powered, if you even find an electric that does the job, you're going to be EATING through batteries.
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Several comparison tests on YT....
https://youtu.be/hd7PFxvptBk
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Several comparison tests on YT....
https://youtu.be/hd7PFxvptBk
According to reviews of my Campbell Hausfeld it’s supposed to be a good ‘have on hand’ impact wrench.
Unfortunately my impact wrench doesn’t watch YT videos. :rolleyes:
Not convenient but I’d even consider a corded electric one.
Thanks for the cogitations and opinions. <S>
Keep em coming… a few more bolts to do.
I’m not even sure the one I have will run new nuts on a new bolt as the confidence is just under whale dung. For the back it might be worth a try and then hit it with, get it right this time fuze, the torque wrench.
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Milwaukee is the go-to for battery operated for those making a living at bangin wrenches. I have 3/8 ratchet, impact drill, 3/8 impact, 1/2 impact. Use them 99% of the time
Air tools IR, mac, snap-on, cornwell. Do not buy air tools from harbor freight, they are garbage. Harbor freight has some decent stuff but air tools aint it.
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I bought a replacement motor for a tiller from harbor freight and it works pretty good
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I bought a replacement motor for a tiller from harbor freight and it works pretty good
Only reason Harbor Freight's motors are good are because they're clones of Hondas and they aren't built by them. Rato Corp. builds them last I checked. :rofl
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I've been using a Dewalt DCF899 20 volt 1/2 electric impact for about the last year or more and still haven't found a bolt it won't break loose (or break lol)
1200 Ft lbs of torque removing
700 Ft lbs of torque tightening
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I've had a corded 1/2" Craftsman for years and a big bag of impact sockets. It works great for times when that 20v Dewalt won't get it done.
When I have a stuck fastener I usually will do two things to get it loose. One is to hit it with PBBlaster at least a few hours before trying it, preferably overnight. That stuff works great. Worst case scenario I'm getting out my acetylene torch and heating up the nut til it's cherry red and then trying it. Usually the heat will release it if all else fails. Don't set any wires on fire!
Worst of the worst case scenario I'm getting out a grinder or dremel to weaken the nut so I can pop it off with a chisel. Cut a slot across one or two of the flats you can get at. Try not to cut all the way thru into the bolt. Then whack it with a chisel til it pops loose and unscrew it. The nut will be toast but you're on to the next step in your repair. Don't buy another nut, and certainly not a bolt at a hardware store if it's something critical like suspension - - - they're usually a couple of grades up from plastic. I wouldn't trust it.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
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Break it loose with a cheater bar first, then use your impact to speed the removal process up.
Otherwise, Milwaukee and Dewalt will make the most powerful battery powered impact.
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Use some heat,then get out your fav impact wrench. I use an old air powered impact,not sure of the make as it’s 30 or 40 yo and haven’t gotten it out in the last 20 years. Usually I’ll hit a stubborn nut with penetrating oil and if it still won’t loosen a little propane usually does the trick. If that fails then an angle grinder and just cut if off.
Rotors seem to be a big issue on fwd/and cars so I just cut them in half with the grinder.
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Thanks Drano. I’ve looked at a few corded ones and can live with a cord.
Lazerr, I gave the C/H that chance and it didn’t do that. Very rarely it worked and did something, say 1 in 10.
morfiend, I did hit the u-bolts with propane torch, all I had, and it seemed to help.
Was thinking about torching stuff like that and how it effects the metal. I’m dumb with metal mostly but know heating it up and the method it cools changes the metallurgy regarding strength and brittleness, right?
Of course if it’s get it off, I have new components, that’s irrelevant.
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I'm guessing you've tried a few drops of acetone based finger nail polish remove mixed with a few drops of automatic transmission fluid an hour or more before trying to remove the bolts?
Only asking because you didn't mention it and it's amazing stuff.
Also sounds like those bolts were set with some version of lock-tight requiring heat as suggested above if the lub doesn't do the trick.
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Not that specific mixture but fasteners are liberally sprayed before and after trying to clean up the threads with a wire brush or some cleaning device. Couple things to get separated today are sway bar link from it’s mounting plate.
I swear the ‘moveable parts’ of my rear suspension didn't have much movement left in them. All bushings were tight with very little give. I think she’s going to ride a bit nicer.
Not that I’m ever in it and not the driver.
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I'm guessing you've tried a few drops of acetone based finger nail polish remove mixed with a few drops of automatic transmission fluid an hour or more before trying to remove the bolts?
Only asking because you didn't mention it and it's amazing stuff.
Also sounds like those bolts were set with some version of lock-tight requiring heat as suggested above if the lub doesn't do the trick.
Years ago when I liked to tear apart engine the ATF and acetone was a go to. We’d use a hot plate full of ATF to take apart close fit parts and even some dry ice to shrink stuff to make it easier to take apart.
But ya if you heat bolts or nuts you should get replacements as you’ll mess the tempering up.
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Original poster needs 120psi minimum to use air.
The electric ones are good and strong but bulky……..and may create sparks.
If you do use air, a single restriction can make 150psi feel like 15 psi if you are requesting high volume.
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posted in wrong thread. sorry <edit>
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Original poster needs 120psi minimum to use air.
The electric ones are good and strong but bulky……..and may create sparks.
If you do use air, a single restriction can make 150psi feel like 15 psi if you are requesting high volume.
Not according to its manual. 90 lbs pressure max. I tried it there with the same disappointing results. No line restrictions. Picked up a cheaper corded one, it is bulkier for sure.
Going to keep breaker bar and long pipe in reach.
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I have a large 220 volt compressor, but it red lines at 90 or 100 according to the gauge. I finally realized that impact wrench I use wants 120. I'm guessing get different gauges?
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I have a large 220 volt compressor, but it red lines at 90 or 100 according to the gauge. I finally realized that impact wrench I use wants 120. I'm guessing get different gauges?
Safety valve might be set to 100lbs so you might want to check that also.
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Safety valve no issue here as it’s been fuzemaned to keep it running.
I don't let it run and walk away. It’s an old one Dad had his crew make with a Square D valve.
A bit of a perk being head of maintenance at Health Research.
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Safety valve no issue here as it’s been fuzemaned to keep it running.
I don't let it run and walk away. It’s an old one Dad had his crew make with a Square D valve.
A bit of a perk being head of maintenance at Health Research.
Sorry fuse I was talking to BJ as to why his compressor won’t go up to 120lbs. You can change the gauges but then the safety pops before you can reach the desired pressure. Then there’s volume as in how large the tank is,you don’t want the compressor running the whole time.
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Sorry fuse I was talking to BJ as to why his compressor won’t go up to 120lbs. You can change the gauges but then the safety pops before you can reach the desired pressure. Then there’s volume as in how large the tank is,you don’t want the compressor running the whole time.
All very important. Include condition of tank.
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Sorry fuse I was talking to BJ as to why his compressor won’t go up to 120lbs. You can change the gauges but then the safety pops before you can reach the desired pressure. Then there’s volume as in how large the tank is,you don’t want the compressor running the whole time.
No need to be sorry morphiend, :D. , I cogitated it was to him but added my two cents as I had spares.
I picked up 5 pennies that day.!I had lots of common sense ( common cents… ) that day and could spare some.
Good thing no rule about bad ‘humour’. :rofl
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No need to be sorry morphiend, :D. , I cogitated it was to him but added my two cents as I had spares.
I picked up 5 pennies that day.!I had lots of common sense ( common cents… ) that day and could spare some.
Good thing no rule about bad ‘humour’. :rofl
:rofl
We don’t have Pennie’s anymore so I can’t add my 2 cents…
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I’ll bet you two cents you do have common sense though!!
I’ll send you a penny or two to wager. :rolleyes:
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Some of us at the dealership level use 150psi.
When I take my 30 year old mac to a Toyota Land Cruiser with stuck lugs, it quickly either gets the lugs off or snaps the stud within 3 seconds.
Also noticing very few motor/belt/compressor and instead see only the super high rpm roaring pumps and very low flow rates and lower pressure.
I’m getting back to using air at home so I’m shopping motors, tanks, and compressor heads to build a nice air system here that can indefinitely run a d/a sander.
I’m using multiple tanks with the second at the other end of the system.
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Yup.... pressure with volume. That's the ticket.
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I got a corded one at Harbour Freight on sale for $40. It didn't blink at the six 15 mm , trailer hitch mounting plate bolts I removed, well, it removed.
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I've got that Harbor Freight corded one too. There's nothing wrong with it.
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They have a few corded ones so ‘that’ one is general.
This one was on sale for $40 with 7 amps and of course right after that was an 8 amper for another $10. Not sure if $10 an amp would have been worth it. Didn't do the cogitations.
It’s got 61173 on box, 7 amps, says 230 footsies of torque, “up to” :cheesy:
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I keep forgetting the power of the OG corded power tools.
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Plenty Oonagi to loosen lug nuts.