For the people who work on their vehicles, impact wrenches…

[fuzeman]

Thanks SIK1, that’s what I was looking for. Mine 28 and in a rust belt. Kind of pricy for one to ‘have on hand’ opposed to ‘needed a few times a week’ situation.

GasTeddy not at that stage!! yet. 

I bent a short 1/2” Craftsman breaker bar on a lug nut long ago. I now just have the shop tighten them and I do torque them with my torque wrench.  Using current references; looked like it had pyronnes disease but got healed and straightened out on my u-bolts.
( Sorry, just cant resist….  ‘ Dat’s nota my bolt, dat’s a u-bolt’. )

Some know what kind of van I have but I’ll spare the laughter that usually follows this time and not say.   

[Maverick]

A couple questions that came to mind was not only what rating (ft lbs) you need but also how often you use it. If you use it daily then go with a decent name brand. If it is once in a blue moon kinda thing, go with something from harbor freight.

There is a you tube channel called donut media and they do automotive related stuff. A lot of comedy to be sure but they also do comparisons. IIRC they did an impact wrench comparison a little while back. Maybe watching that one will help make the choice.

[Tig]

I just use a Ridgid brand battery powered impact driver. Only things I've encountered that it wouldn't loosen up was the kingpin bolts on one of my go karts. I discovered how useful it was when I was working on the sprocket/wheel hubs on said go kart. Saved me literally hours of slaving with a socket and a box wrench, and I've never looked back since.
For lug nuts though? Definitely go air powered, if you even find an electric that does the job, you're going to be EATING through batteries.

[Shuffler]

Several comparison tests on YT....

https://youtu.be/hd7PFxvptBk

[fuzeman]

Several comparison tests on YT....

https://youtu.be/hd7PFxvptBk

According to reviews of my Campbell Hausfeld it’s supposed to be a good ‘have on hand’ impact wrench.
Unfortunately my impact wrench doesn’t watch YT videos.   

Not convenient but I’d even consider a corded electric one.
Thanks for the cogitations and opinions.  <S>
Keep em coming… a few more bolts to do.

I’m not even sure the one I have will run new nuts on a new bolt as the confidence is just under whale dung. For the back it might be worth a try and then hit it with, get it right this time fuze, the torque wrench.

[nopoop]

Milwaukee is the go-to for battery operated for those making a living at bangin wrenches. I have 3/8 ratchet, impact drill, 3/8 impact, 1/2 impact. Use them 99% of the time

Air tools IR, mac, snap-on, cornwell. Do not buy air tools from harbor freight, they are garbage. Harbor freight has some decent stuff but air tools aint it.

[Meatwad]

I bought a replacement motor for a tiller from harbor freight and it works pretty good

[Tig]

I bought a replacement motor for a tiller from harbor freight and it works pretty good

Only reason Harbor Freight's motors are good are because they're clones of Hondas and they aren't built by them. Rato Corp. builds them last I checked. 

[TryHard]

I've been using a Dewalt DCF899 20 volt 1/2 electric impact for about the last year or more and still haven't found a bolt it won't break loose (or break lol)

1200 Ft lbs of torque removing
700 Ft lbs of torque tightening

[Drano]

I've had a corded 1/2" Craftsman for years and a big bag of impact sockets. It works great for times when that 20v Dewalt won't get it done.

When I have a stuck fastener I usually will do two things to get it loose. One is to hit it with PBBlaster at least a few hours before trying it, preferably overnight. That stuff works great. Worst case scenario I'm getting out my acetylene torch and heating up the nut til it's cherry red and then trying it. Usually the heat will release it if all else fails. Don't set any wires on fire!

Worst of the worst case scenario I'm getting out a grinder or dremel to weaken the nut so I can pop it off with a chisel. Cut a slot across one or two of the flats you can get at. Try not to cut all the way thru into the bolt. Then whack it with a chisel til it pops loose and unscrew it. The nut will be toast but you're on to the next step in your repair. Don't buy another nut, and certainly not a bolt at a hardware store if it's something critical like suspension - - - they're usually a couple of grades up from plastic. I wouldn't trust it.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[Lazerr]

Break it loose with a cheater bar first, then use your impact to speed the removal process up.

Otherwise, Milwaukee and Dewalt will make the most powerful battery powered impact.

[morfiend]

Use some heat,then get out your fav impact wrench. I use an old air powered impact,not sure of the make as it’s 30 or 40 yo and haven’t gotten it out in the last 20 years. Usually I’ll hit a stubborn nut with penetrating oil and if it still won’t loosen a little propane usually does the trick. If that fails then an angle grinder and just cut if off.

Rotors seem to be a big issue on fwd/and cars so I just cut them in half with the grinder.

[fuzeman]

Thanks Drano. I’ve looked at a few corded ones and can live with a cord.
Lazerr, I gave the C/H that chance and it didn’t  do that. Very rarely it worked and did something, say 1 in 10.
morfiend, I did hit the u-bolts with propane torch, all I had, and it seemed to help.

Was thinking about torching stuff like that and how it effects the metal. I’m dumb with metal mostly but know heating it up and the method it cools changes the metallurgy regarding strength and brittleness, right?
Of course if it’s get it off, I have new components, that’s irrelevant.

[Easyscor]

I'm guessing you've tried a few drops of acetone based finger nail polish remove mixed with a few drops of automatic transmission fluid an hour or more before trying to remove the bolts?
Only asking because you didn't mention it and it's amazing stuff.
Also sounds like those bolts were set with some version of lock-tight requiring heat as suggested above if the lub doesn't do the trick.

[fuzeman]

Not that specific mixture but fasteners are liberally sprayed before and after trying to clean up the threads with a wire brush or some cleaning device. Couple things to get separated today are sway bar link from it’s mounting plate.
I swear the ‘moveable parts’ of my rear suspension didn't have much movement left in them. All bushings were tight with very little give. I think she’s going to ride a bit nicer.
Not that I’m ever in it and not the driver.