Author Topic: Setting/nose bounce Cyborg EVO (Read 764 times)

buggs · « **on:** October 14, 2005, 07:59:08 PM »

I use a Saitek Cyborg EVO. No matter what I do the stick stays very sensitve ; too much nose bounce up and down and side to side when using stick rudder. I have tried adjusting settings, dmp and dpn. No luck whatsoever. I use XP. Does any have a fix, suggestions or settings the could send (jlindblad4@comcast.net). I appreciate any help or advice. Thanks

Bugsch

Simaril · « **Reply #1 on:** October 14, 2005, 08:37:49 PM »

consider trying combat trim; in most planes it doesnt harm flight (notable exceptions are the Ki84 and the p38 family) in most circumstances, and it means neutral stick will be nearly neutral flight.

If you havent done it already, go to clipboard/controls/stick settings and make the curve flatter.

http://www.hitechcreations.com/frindex.html and click on joystick selection for details. you can decrease the flight defelction created by a given stick movement with those slliders.

Murdr · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2005, 08:51:59 PM »

AKAK has a download showing his stick settings. He used to work for CH products. AKAK's stickscale settings. It worked ok for my old saitek cyborg.
Though I never was happy with the response using a twist stick for rudder under any settings, and ended up using racing pedals until I could splurge for flight pedals.

Max · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2005, 09:17:59 PM »

I also used Ack-Ack's stick profile with my Evo with decent results. Having owned
3 Evo's I can tell you they're like a box of chocolates...some are great, some suck from the git-go and some develop nose bounce over time.

One thing you can try, besides the stick scale from Ack-Ack is to calibrate the stick everytime you enter AH. If you're still having nose bounce issues you can
A. Buy another one from a box store, along with a replacment warranty guarantee. If the stick develops problems; trade it in for a new one.
B. Swallow the bullit and get yourself a decent CH Fighterstick, throttle and rudder pedals. Making the change-over from a twist stick to peds wasn't easy for me but CH produces hardware that will last you for years to come. They also have replacement parts and a great customer support team.

One last option is to look on E-Bay for a Microsoft Precision Pro Sidewinder. Just be sure it's a USB stick (vs Gameport)

Good luck...holler back if you have any questions.

DmdMax

Colt44 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 20, 2005, 02:43:49 AM »

the only way i got rid of my stick bounce with the evo was to put it on the shelf and go to ebay and find an old cyborg 3d gold..

uh...come to think of it ...my cyborg is worn out....

race ya to ebay...

MajWoody · « **Reply #5 on:** October 21, 2005, 02:13:49 PM »

I had a noze bounce problem while shooting. I read a post on the bbs about how zoom magnifies this problem. I quit zooming when I shoot & viola, problem solved. My shooting still sux but it has improved a great deal.

stantond · « **Reply #6 on:** October 21, 2005, 08:20:49 PM »

I found a combination of reducing deadband to the minimum and increasing dampening reduced nose bounce. As an aside, the minimum deadband value is that which allows automatic trim without kicking out. For example, if deadband is too low automatic speed trim during climb will stop and if you are afk the plane will crash. Minimum deadband has to be determined for each stick.

The dampening slider (dampening) slows the planes response down and affects nose bounce pretty significantly. Yaw oscillation from rudder inputs can be elimated with dampening, deadband can affect yaw oscillation as well. I have not found any 'magic bullet' to help with stick configurations, but if you have nose bounce that means the stick is not configured well.

Some sticks will be more prone to nose bounce but calibration, deadband, and dampening all influence nose bounce. Also, you can observe if the stick is spiking by looking at the blue box in the upper left hand when pitch is selected. Stick spiking could be contributing to the nose bounce. I don't think there is a software configuration fix for stick spiking.

And regarding gunnery, don't use zoom.

Regards,

Malta

SkyWolf · « **Reply #7 on:** October 22, 2005, 08:49:59 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by stantond

And regarding gunnery, don't use zoom.

Regards,

Malta

I'm blind enough that if I don't use zoom I lose targets near the ground.... unless they are the size of a B-24.

Max · « **Reply #8 on:** October 22, 2005, 09:25:57 AM »

Malta I was wondering if you could lend me some help concerning a Saitek Cyborg Gold USB stick that I took out of mothballs recently. I love this stick, has a much smoother and steady response vs the EVO. The problem is that it seems to drift out of calibration constantly. By that I mean, if I bring up the stick settings and look at the dispkay box on the upper right hand side, the 3 color lines drift apart to an upper, middle and lower configuration. Once I calibrate they all re-appear as one solid line. Five minutes later they're apart again.

While this situation doesn't appear to effect the performance of the stick all that much, I'm wondering if there's a way to maintain an optimal rsponse line in the display window. Get what I'm saying?

Thanks ~
DmdMax

heatedpitot · « **Reply #9 on:** October 22, 2005, 05:12:07 PM »

QUOTE]Originally posted by SS10
stantond

I am just south of you in NC. Was wondering if it would be any great inconvience to contact you via fone. I need your help with my Evo jstick. If you don't mind too much would appreciate a reply via my Email addy, then we can go from there.

TUVM in advance,

Ed

fouriiii@adelphia.net [/B][/QUOTE]

stantond · « **Reply #10 on:** October 22, 2005, 06:02:59 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by DMax
Malta I was wondering if you could lend me some help concerning a Saitek Cyborg Gold USB stick that I took out of mothballs recently. I love this stick, has a much smoother and steady response vs the EVO. The problem is that it seems to drift out of calibration constantly. By that I mean, if I bring up the stick settings and look at the dispkay box on the upper right hand side, the 3 color lines drift apart to an upper, middle and lower configuration. Once I calibrate they all re-appear as one solid line. Five minutes later they're apart again.

While this situation doesn't appear to effect the performance of the stick all that much, I'm wondering if there's a way to maintain an optimal rsponse line in the display window. Get what I'm saying?

Thanks ~
DmdMax

Hi Max,

Having three distinct lines after moving the stick around for a few minutes means your stick drifts. While that may not make the stick unusable, it will give you strange responses. I had a CH Fighterstick with the roll axis pot going bad. It would not stay in calibration, WEP would sometimes not operate, and auto trim would sometimes kick out. There are no software fixes for hardware problems in AH (that I know of). Can you fly using auto trim (speed or level, not combat) with that stick for very long?

Deadband is a bit difficult to describe and I may not have been absolutely clear in my description. But from everything I have learned, all sticks have deadband. The only way to find the minimum deadband is to set a mininimum, fly with autopilot and if it kicks out then raise the level of deadband. Also, the amount of deadband can affect nose bounce. However, I don't think raising the deadband will fix a drifting calibration, which is basically a hardware problem. It sounds like your stick is 'worn out'.

Regards,

Malta

stantond · « **Reply #11 on:** October 22, 2005, 06:10:31 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by SS10
QUOTE]Originally posted by SS10
stantond

I am just south of you in NC. Was wondering if it would be any great inconvience to contact you via fone. I need your help with my Evo jstick. If you don't mind too much would appreciate a reply via my Email addy, then we can go from there.

TUVM in advance,

Ed

fouriiii@adelphia.net

Email sent.

Regards,

Malta

OOZ662 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 23, 2005, 01:09:16 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by DMax
Malta I was wondering if you could lend me some help concerning a Saitek Cyborg Gold USB stick that I took out of mothballs recently. I love this stick, has a much smoother and steady response vs the EVO. The problem is that it seems to drift out of calibration constantly. By that I mean, if I bring up the stick settings and look at the dispkay box on the upper right hand side, the 3 color lines drift apart to an upper, middle and lower configuration. Once I calibrate they all re-appear as one solid line. Five minutes later they're apart again.

While this situation doesn't appear to effect the performance of the stick all that much, I'm wondering if there's a way to maintain an optimal rsponse line in the display window. Get what I'm saying?

Thanks ~
DmdMax

I'd second the fact that your pots are going out. "Pots" stands for potentiometers(sp?), and they are what measure the stick movement. Dead pots can cause drifting, spiking, and bouts of just plain not working in a fight.

Quote

Originally posted by stantond
As an aside, the minimum deadband value is that which allows automatic trim without kicking out. For example, if deadband is too low automatic speed trim during climb will stop and if you are afk the plane will crash. Minimum deadband has to be determined for each stick.

That isn't really as deep as it should be. Deadband is the amount of stick movement (from center) that the game ignores. If your joystick has little tiny spikes that take your plane out of Auto Trim but don't really move the plane, adding just a little deadband will make the game ignore them. If you have big spikes (like all my X45s ended up with...) that snap you out of Auto Trim and roll the whole friggin' plane, you need a new joystick

Too much deadband can hinder response times, cause nose bounce, and mess up surgical tank aiming. Too little, however, and your joystick will move the plane when a fly farts on it.

stantond · « **Reply #13 on:** October 23, 2005, 03:59:56 PM »

OOZ662 is right, deadband is not that difficult of a concept. It is the amount of movement where no input is accepted. Increasing deadband increases the amount the stick has to be moved from center for an input to get a response.

The best way to understand dampening and deadband are to experience them. That is easiest to do offline or in the TA. Take your favorite plane up, bring up the clipboard and mouse click to,

Setup->Controls->Joystick->Settings

where you have access to all the roll, pitch, rudder, etc controls while flying! For example, change the pitch deadband, click ok, close the clipboard and see the effect! The dampening can be adjusted in the same way!

When you get the settings the way you like, do a screen save for each axis using the alt-s key sequence. The images will be stored in the AH2 directory "Drive:/Program Files/HTC/Aces High II", using a bmp format.

Adjusting dampening and deadband by trial and error is the only way I know to eliminate nose bounce. YMMV.

Regards,

Malta