Question for the Athlon overclocking folks...

[MrSiD]

For Slot-A you can use the GoldFinger device which lets you change the multiplier. No soldering required.

[Lephturn]

Wobble, you are wrong.

The Athlon Thunderbirds are SOCKET A CPU's, not SLOTs.

So, you can do the L1 bridge multiplier trick on a Thunderbird or Duron.

It's only the original Athlons that you can get in a SLOT A configuration.  Not that you'd want to.  

I think there was some confusion there.  Lets go through the chips.

1.  Athlon.  The original, and a Slot form factor chip.
2.  Thunderbird.  The new design Athlon with a Socket form factor.
3.  The Duron.  A "value" version of the Thunderbird, competitor to the Celeron.  Also a Socket form factor.

Only the original slot A Athlons require the gold finger devices to change multipliers.  Both the new Athlons and Durons can be unlocked with the L1 bridge pencil trick.

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Sean "Lephturn" Conrad - Aces High Chief Trainer

A proud member of the mighty Flying Pigs
http://www.flyingpigs.com

Check out Lephturn's Aerodrome for AH articles and training info!

[Boroda]

Lephturn, some Durons have multiplier "unlocked" on the factory. I bought a Duron-600 with unlocked multiplier, AFAIR manufactured on week 25, 2000, runs 100% stable at 900MHz, Soltek SL-75KV+ mainboard.

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With respect,
    Pavel Pavlov,
    Commissar 25th IAP WB VVS

[Ddriag]

I've got a Duron 600@800 running at the moment in my Abit KT7. I've heard that the pencil trick can eventually fail as the graphite corrodes, or falls off etc. I used heated rear windscreen repair paint to do my l1 bridges, which I bought from a car bits & pieces shop (Halfords for any Brits). I used a sooper giant magnifier and an insulin syringe which I borrowed from my cat to perform the operation. I stayed off alcohol for a week before to steady my hand  

Ddriag.

PS. I also noticed that when I de-clocked my pooter back to 600Mhz recently, it made sod all difference to FR in AH which averages between 38-65.

[MrSiD]

Yeh, the graphite corrodes much like the pencil written papers get destroyed in a few months.. NOT! Thats just another urban legend. Of course if you want to spend $15 for a conductive paint, go ahead.

And if your system didn't work faster when going from 600 to 800 it's simply because your graphics card or something else in the system was acting as the bottleneck. Your other peripherals were maxed out already with a 600Mhz system in a game use.

[Ddriag]

Thanks for your helpful and considerate reply.

[RoadfRash]

You want to be EXTREMELY careful soldering anything to a CPU, first off make sure if you absolutely must tinker that your soldering iron/gun has a grounded tip, older irons/guns may have a voltage on the tip and good by CPU, secondly make sure you have a static wrist strap on. Keep your cpu away from anything that is able to produce static...rugs, tape, anyone around you etc.

[Defiance]

Hiya's
      Bit late to reply as such but what the heck  

I made my copper block h2o system for a T-Bird 750 and got it rock solid at 1050 (waterblock just replaces hsf) this is on an asus a7v rev 1.02 with volt mod (added resistor) then i saw a piece on "On the Core Cooling" so i made a cooler that sits over the core like a tube with in/out pipes and bottom that touches the base of the cpu which is sealed with rubber gasket i made out of some innertube
Now i have TB 750@1.1gig and thats without any FSB   (memory is cwap hence no fsb)
Getting into cryo stuff next all being well

ps the resistor stuff on top around tb core are sealed in case some wondered

If your into clocking and ever need any help email me at   anthony.sutton@btconnect.com  and i would try to help

Have Fun

Defiance

[MrSiD]

 http://www.plycon.com/trace.htm