Some of my model work - kinda off topic.

[JHerne]

There's no gift - most people who know me tell me I should be wearing a helmet most of the time, so....

And I've ruined a ton of models in my day.

You learn from trial and error. I had a great teacher, a former USAF Ordnance guy, worked on A-26s in Korea and then went on to arm nukes aboard B-36s. He taught me early on the basics of filling seams, painting, etc. He passed away nearly 15 years ago, sadly.

The key is knowledge, patience, and equipment. Read everything you possibly can about building a model. Have your research done ahead of time, know what colors you're going to use, etc.

Patience - don't expect to finish a model in a weekend. The models you see here are anywhere from 35 hours to 300 hundred hours.
Understand each and every aspect of the construction before you glue. Kinda like measure twice - cut once. The biggest mistake modelers make is wanting to see the model finished - and they rush it as a result. That's when mistakes happen.

Tools. It doesn't take $10000 worth of tools to make a beautiful model. But having the right stuff to do the job helps. No one uses the old toluene tube glue anymore. Everyone uses CA (superglue) and MEK (Methyl Eythl Ketone) based products like Tenax 7-R, Ambroid Pro-Weld, and Tamiya Thin Liquid Cement. These reduce your build time from hours (waiting for stuff to dry) to seconds in some instances.

You also have to develop techniques and get into habits that are otherwise boring. Don't wait to clean the airbrush - do it immediately. Never pull parts from the sprues, cut with nippers or use a razor saw. Test fit everything before you glue it, etc.

Painting is an exercise in patience, but there are tricks. If you use a spray can, shake the hell out of it, then put it into a pot of hot water. Let it sit for a few minutes. This increases the pressure in the can and improves atomization of the paint. Paint a part, a fuselage, wing, or entire plane, then put it away. Schedule your painting that it happens at the end of a building shift. This allows the model to dry overnight while you're off sleeping or playing AH. When you come back to it 24 hours later, the paint is hardened and you can continue on.

If anyone is a modeler, and wants help, please don't hesitate to ask. Unlike learning how to master E in a 109, I have no trade secrets. I'll gladly share what I know.

Jeff

[JHerne]

I'll pass on these links if anyone is interested...

www.largescaleplanes.com
www.hyperscale.com
www.aircraftresourcecenter.co m
http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/
www.britmodeller.com

There are literally thousands of stories on these websites explaining how people do things, from natural-metal finishes to weathering, etc.

And for my own shameless plug...

www.modelerswarehouse.com

I do a line of vinyl masks (instead of decals) and weathering pigments and washes for models.

J

[maddafinga]

Love ARC, check that one out every day, some excellent work on there.  Swanny has a great page also with tons of tips and step by step builds, great for inspiration and learning...

http://www.swannysmodels.com/

You forgot to mention Future in your short little tip section Jeff, that stuff is indispensable! 

I just had a split with the (now ex) girlfriend and am getting a new place, which means I'll be able to rebuild my model work area and start up work again once I get a new airbrush.  I'm super excited and will be sure to post some pics once I get new equipment and some work done. 

[ZetaNine]

I am completely in awe..........and quite jealous.

stunning model work pal.......absolutely stunning.

[JHerne]

Thanks - Madda - I completely forgot about Future...lol...

Future Floor Wax, makes a really nice acrylic clear gloss. Mix it with Tamiya X-21 Flat Base, you got a killer dullcoat.

At present, I'm working on three aircraft and two ships - Hajo's D-Jugs, an Albatross D.Va, a 1/350 IJN Takao, and a scratchbuilt aircraft carrier (another what-if project, a CV on an Iowa Class BB hull).

J

[ZetaNine]

as a favor to me......can you make a future model look like it's seen 4 years of combat?

I used to collect trains...and I think I made most of my cars and engines look "worn".

nothing better than 4" above the tip of a lit candle for realistic smoke/sludge/exhaust stains effect. (repeated quickly so the model does not melt)

[JHerne]

Sure - I can do that...have to think of something worthy of dirtying up, though.

I try not to overdo my weathering or panel lines. For the most part, aircraft were maintained. Notable exceptions were Marine Corps Corsairs in the South Pacific, etc., where environmental effects played a large role.

J

[nrshida]

That's fantastic craftsmanship JHerne. Any experienced modelmaker can see the quality. Your finishes are exceptional.

Must, resist, don't, look, on, eBay, for Hasagawa, Ki-84s!

 

[maddafinga]

Thanks - Madda - I completely forgot about Future...lol...

Future Floor Wax, makes a really nice acrylic clear gloss. Mix it with Tamiya X-21 Flat Base, you got a killer dullcoat.

At present, I'm working on three aircraft and two ships - Hajo's D-Jugs, an Albatross D.Va, a 1/350 IJN Takao, and a scratchbuilt aircraft carrier (another what-if project, a CV on an Iowa Class BB hull).

J

Also if you dip your clear parts in it and then let them air dry, all the scratches (or haze from polishing them out) disappear and it gets much much clearer. 

[Swager]

Incredible work!  I hate you!  No just kidding!

I looked at your wonderful work again.....

...I was right the first time, I do hate you!! 

[JHerne]

You wouldn't be the first guy on the AH forums that hates me...lol.

I'm working on a modeling book at the moment - basically culminating everything I've learned (that works) into a single volume. The first volume will cover aircraft, Vol. II armor, Vol.III ships. There's no photos yet, but, if anyone wants to read the manuscript, I'd be happy to provide a copy in Word format.

I'm also looking at publishing a builder's journal on a quarterly basis, that takes you step-by-step through a specific kit, combined with research materials, walkaround photos, etc. Basically, everything that the average modeler (or the beginner) would need to build a specific kit. I'm finalizing the print-on-demand structure with the printer/distributor, hope to have things ready to roll within a month or two.

Jeff

[maddafinga]

You wouldn't be the first guy on the AH forums that hates me...lol.

I'm working on a modeling book at the moment - basically culminating everything I've learned (that works) into a single volume. The first volume will cover aircraft, Vol. II armor, Vol.III ships. There's no photos yet, but, if anyone wants to read the manuscript, I'd be happy to provide a copy in Word format.

I'm also looking at publishing a builder's journal on a quarterly basis, that takes you step-by-step through a specific kit, combined with research materials, walkaround photos, etc. Basically, everything that the average modeler (or the beginner) would need to build a specific kit. I'm finalizing the print-on-demand structure with the printer/distributor, hope to have things ready to roll within a month or two.

Jeff

Sweet man, put the info up here when the book is done, I'll get it.  I've got to restock all my building stuff,  lost it all in a fire a few years back, and haven't had the chance to restart due to life and such, but I'm getting out on my own now.  I've got a work area all lined up in  my new apartment.  I'd definitely be interested in the builder's journal too.  Sounds great man, keep us updated!

[Charge]

Having built models myself there is a couple of things that bothers me a bit and those are over weathering and over emphasis of paneling. Now in real aircraft the riveting and seams on fuselage and wings were supposed to be as invisible as possible both from airflow point of view and thus visibly as well. That would usually mean that the these panel lines should be softened a lot, almost to disappear, where as the model producers try to make deep grooves to show these. I have seen pictures of beautiful techniques where some of panels on bare metal aircraft are painted with slight tinting of darker or lighter metal and the groove itself has been filled to give the surface a smooth finish but the tinting gives the panel division away nicely. In camouflaged aircraft it is a bit different but e.g in 109 the rear fuselage was very smooth and the riveting was almost invisible where as the front fuselage had panel lines that were very visible.

And the over weathering. Something that is easy to over do when everything seems to add "realism" to the model and suddenly it looks like a dirt and oil pimped batmobil. I see that a lot on modeling forum pictures.

-C+

PS. Nice work JHerne 

[Oddball-CAF]

J,
  Those are absolutely beautiful. Thanks for posting 'em up!

[JHerne]

Thanks again guys.

Charge, you're absolutely right. The problem with the modeling community is very similar to some of the prevailing attitudes here, in that someone posts a photo of an absolutely grimy aircraft (almost always the exception to the norm), then everyone jumps on board and accepts it as the standard, because someone with a little knowledge or a high post count says so.

Case in point was armor. A few years back, a Spanish modeler posted a beautiful T-55 that was simply scratched all to hell. He posted photos of the actual model (Lebanese T-55), and it was scratched all to hell. People asked him how to achieve the results, he told them, then every damn armor model that was posted for 6 months after that was all scratched to hell.

For those of us who spent time around real aircraft (and it don't matter if its military, airliners, or Cessnas), we know what actual rivets and panel lines look like. 95% of all modelers out there have never touched the things they model - yet they're experts.

I try not to over-do my weathering or panel lines. In defense of weathering and panel lines, though, not doing anything to them does leave the model very monotone. You want some degree of artificial contrast, otherwise it looks too perfect, often toy-like.

J