Probs with joystick...

[Paintbrush]

I use a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro.
My right roll (ailoron) has become sloooowww. The left is normal.

This is my second Logitech Extreme 3D Pro. The first one started doing the same thing. That's why I took it back and got the one I have now, but now this one started doing the same thing.

I know about calibrating and it hasn't helped.

Anyone else had this problem?
Any suggestions?

Thanks for any help.

[Happy1]

Greetings

Insofar, as of Nov, 2003, I've had 3 Logitech Wingman 3D Pro, & I've had nothing but problems w/ these Joysticks, on my 1st WingmanDigital 3d I've experienced power loss, hvy spiking &
awful nose bouncing.

On my Wingman 3d pros I've hvy nose bouncing & spiking.  The warranties on Logitech are great however the items in question leave a lot 2b desired.

I've had the AH community help me by providing their stick.cfg
files, which worked for a little while then back to the old problems.

I've a friend who bot the CH Products Fighter stick, USB, & what
a difference, u point at ur target & it stays ON target w/NO boun-
cing arnd.  If u want 2 enjoy AH get a good stick from CH Products
or Thrustmaster, it costs more but really cuts down on frustration
making the game more enjoyable  

AH is a fun game providing u've a good stick w/gd configuration,
otherwise u end up greatly disappointed.

Cheers,

Happy1  

[airbumba]

Ditto. Nothin but problems. Can't wait to get a new stick. It does make it kinda interesting in a bad way, tryin to hit something with the stick bouncin all around. It's a sure way to keep your hit % around 1% , heheh.

[Paintbrush]

Thanks for all the info.  I got a Saitek Cyborg evo. I like it a lot better and haven't had any problems with it except that when I turn on "auto pilot" it releases by itself after about one second. It didn't do that when I first got it but it suddenly started recently. So now I have no "auto pilot".

Anyone know of a fix for this?  

It's a ***** when you've been flying for 10 minutes and suddenly you have to go to the bathroom, then realize your auto pilot isn't working.  

[fuzeman]

I believe if autoP wont stay on it has to be getting inputs that knock it off. Try a recalibration and if that doesn't work bump up your deadband slightly. You should be able to monitor inputs from Setup > Joystick and watch the blue boxes for spiking or drifting. That may enable you to see which deadband to raise.

[Paintbrush]

Thanks fuze, I'll give it a shot.

[LYNX]

I've had exactly the same problems.  Decreased right had turn.  Have XP home if that is any different to u.  I also run in DX8.1b.  I have deleted the stick twice got the clear calibration DL from Logitech and gone into manager and deleted stuff from there.
I am on my second replacement stick with exactly the problems.

When I try to load the stick it say DDL run as application needs to shut down.  (what ever that is... maybe somone can tell me)  So only half the stick info is in.  Now I run it on the XP game controler and it's alot better but not what u expect.  I have to calibrate in AH every time I entre the arena.

So the long and short of it is..... BUYERS BEWARE!

[fuzeman]

The slow reaction to one side of movement while the other is ok has me scratching my noggin. It sounds like the pots are not linear or loose their linearity, which is impossible { I think }.
This is a BIG guess but what might be happening is the 'center' of that axis of movement has shifted. Try adjusting the centering tabs on the stick or use the centering utility to make sure the stick is centered in its range of outputs.
Again, guessing on this. Keep us in the loop on how things work out.

[RTR]

Logitech sticks, although having a great button layout, are crap.

Speaking from experience here. I have had 4 of them. They all became pretty much useless within 6 months.

The nose bouncing and axis spiking, once it starts, will not get better. The quality of this stick is severely lacking.

My best advice to you is to get rid of it. You can pick up a Saitek Cyborg EVO for the same price and it is a much better stick.

No nose bounce, good rudder control, stays calibrated (in my experience) and a comfortable fit.

Long and short of it Paintbrush is that your stick is worn out and you will be unable to keep it calibrated (if you can actually still calibrate it succesfully at all).

Sorry for the bad news, but at least it's only a $30.00 hit.

Cheers,

RTR

[LYNX]

Think I have cracked the stick.  It's worked solid for me for 2 days now.  Still doing a little fine tune though.  Anyways, after e-mailing skuzzy he sent back a standard type e-mail basically saying go off line / setup / joystick / joystick (not calibrate) and set all "Inputs" and "buttons" and apply.  It actually worked..... for a bit. However, it gave me an insight to setting the actual stick itself.  So, get out the profiler click help click tutorial.  You need to make a notepad.exe and put it in aces settings / sticks folder.  Next u make a profile for aces.  Long and at first a little complicated.  You need to tell the profile to start every time you open aces.  Then you open aces off line go to settings / joystick and set all "Inputs and button inputs" and apply.

What will happen is it'll work ok until u need to calibrates  then you loose about 60 % of your right turn axis...usual trouble.  But following the profile editor instructions I told it not to use the "X" axis.  Set profile off line again in inputs and calibrated.  Ta da works fine except in game controller it still shows 60 % lose of right turn axis but works fine in the game.  I have put that axis back in without any ill effect.

The " don't move stick so quick" was mostly caused by my "Y" axis so I set it to 65% with 15 % dead band.  "X" axis I set to 60% with 10 % dead band.  Worked but was to stiff.  Never got the "don't move" message.  I have slowly lowered those settings 35 % at 0 % dead band and 35 % with 6 % dead band on "Y" axis.  The axis causes the problems if it's set to flighty.

HINTS.. make sure when changing the profile u click "select a game" / aces and then click "start game" / aces.  It won't actually start the game it just brings up that Notepad.exe.  When done close the Notepad.exe and LEAVE the profiler in the task bar.  Start aces off line and set all Inputs again.  I profiled my "hat" switch but in game it works a little slower.  

If you choose this path... Good luck and be prepared to expend about 6 hrs of your time doing it.  It isn't rocket science but the help instructions are a little err Geeky.

[LYNX]

Belay the above.....sticks a load of crap  lol.

[LYNX]

Ok  I had it working with the logitech profiler set up in Aces but it went tits up again.  I had a system32 failure which really screwed with ALL game controlers.  So this is what I did......

After reloading XP home I uninstalled the 3D pro.  I then went to  C:\local\pragrame files\HTC folder\sticks and deleted the Logitech PROFILE I had created.  Yes, it was still there after the Uninstall.  I then went to Device manger and deleted Human Interface and Yes, Logitech was still the interface even after the original Uninstall.

I checked game controller to make sure nothing was loaded.  So, here i was with a CLEAN SHEET to work from.  I reloaded Logitech Extrem 3D PRO with the downloaded upgrade from their site.  Simple and quick to do.  I checked the controler in the load and after with game controler.   All was well and calibrated.  Then, and here's the punch line, I started AH off line went settings\ Joystick\ Joystick controller (NOT CALIBRATE). I set roll pitch throttle rudder and hat AXIS.  You HAVE to do each one individual.

Example...  on the LEFT side of the joystick Inputter (for want of a better or correct name) CLICK Roll CLICK Extreme 3D PRO in the centre section and then on the RIGHT Cick ROLL. Then Click SET INPUT (bottom right) then Click APPLY.

Do the above for each AXIS.  take to the air in the plane you have most experience with and wiggle the stick up and down left and right.  If you get the "Don't move stick so quick" You need to adjust dead band and dampening for each axis.  Now set Dead Band harder by about 1/3 and then set Dampening way high.. so about 1/3 the way up the slider.  Take to the air and wiggle away.  Adjust each Axis Dampener untill the plane feels right.  You may need to readjust Dead Band if it's to hard.

So, now online I found the calibration was just ever so slightly off. .  But being the head \ wall type of guy I calibrated:( .
You guessed it  RIGHT SIDE AXIS went TiTs:mad: .  I thought the guys at LOGITECH must be doing this-----> . SO, here's what I did.. I went backk into Joystick Inputer (straight away still on line) and reset Roll AXIS Inputs and calibrated again.  IT WORKED. .

Checking game controller it shows about 60% of right turn axis missing AGAIN but in ACES it's fine.  I have had to calibrate a couple of time over the last few days.  Same thing happens ... right turn axis goes TiTs but I then reinput axis and calibrate and it's ok.

Am not a computer geek so can't say why Extrem 3D Pro seems to have 2 roll Axis or that the AH calibrater hates the 3D PRO.  All i know is posted above.  I have a ****e stick and have gotten it to work.  All be it conviluted.   If you have this stick follow the above.  If your thinking of buying a stick.... well errm... "is this stick for you" ?

[zmeg]

I just bought 1 of those things, loved the 12 button layout but no matter how I adjusted the sliders I just couldn't make it flyable. Finally took it back and went back to my old worn out Saitek cyborg.

[AKWarp]

I've made the mistake of purchasing some of the wingman series of sticks for my son...I too found them to be crap.

I know they aren't cheap, but if you are serious about this game, in my opinion, you can not beat the new CH USB sticks/throttle/rudder pedals.  These things are awesome.  100% stable, no spiking of any kind.  

The only "quirk" to them is CH's "Control manager" software that you use to program the devices.  I've managed, after some trial and error to perfect its use with AH.  If you so choose, you don't need this software, but then you have to map all your buttons via the in-game mapping options. Anyone needs any help with the Control Manager, just ask.

[scott123]

Hi

   My first stick was a Logitech,I was always trying to calibrate it,and centre it,but it was crap.In the end I bought a new stick,a saitek cyborg...I have had no problems with this stick an it always remains calibrated.

   I would not buy another logitech,though they may be ok.

                          Good luck:aok