Author Topic: Broke off a sparkplug!!!!! (Read 2073 times)

jab116 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2006, 01:25:27 PM »

More than likely somebody crossthreaded the plug and torqued it in supertight. Espescially if it broke off so low. Take the head off, you might have to get a heli-coil insert put in to fix the damaged threads.

Atoon · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2006, 01:48:10 PM »

Wow, yer not supposed to use a denso plug on a 22r? Isn't Denso japanese? Isn't the 22r Japanese????

Kimber1 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 13, 2006, 02:22:31 PM »

The problem is the the plug is steel and the head is aluminum, putting those two metals togather with out some kind of insulater will result in the two being corroded togather. To keep this from happening again just put a litttle anti-seize in the treads of the plug before you install them.

KgB · « **Reply #18 on:** April 14, 2006, 09:07:41 AM »

Firstly of all every job on aluminum block/heads should be performed on cooled engine.
Secondly.....yeah you screwed bro.Not much you can do without special tools,removing head is the best solution.
---------------
ASE,BMW Certified.Master tec.

Morpheus · « **Reply #19 on:** April 14, 2006, 11:08:32 AM »

he's not screwend LOL. I dont know why you think its that big of a deal. We've had friends break rods and sling **** all over the inside of the case. Pulled the pan from under the car, pulled out the busted rod and piston, cleaned all the meltal out and poped in a new one and the car ran fine for another 40k.

Yeah, you have to pull plugs when the heads are cold on alum heads. Like I said, an easy out, with some heavy grease on it to keep some of the metal from going inside, then blow out the cylinder and put a new plug in. You will be good to go. Its that simple. We've drilled new EGR passages on heads that were already on the car. They go RIGHT through one side of the head to the other. Just put some grease on the drill bit to keep any watermelon from going into the cylinder.

mora · « **Reply #20 on:** April 14, 2006, 12:11:05 PM »

Yep, if you turn the engine until the exhaust valve is fully open and blow through the spark plug hole you'll most likely be fine. Just don't confuse intake and exhaust valves.

Casca · « **Reply #21 on:** April 14, 2006, 12:33:42 PM »

I wouldn't pull the head off for this fix. If it was a Staggerwing Beech I might do it different..or not.

mora · « **Reply #22 on:** April 14, 2006, 04:51:24 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Casca
If it was a Staggerwing Beech I might do it different..or not.

KgB · « **Reply #23 on:** April 15, 2006, 09:13:44 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Morpheus
he's not screwend LOL. I dont know why you think its that big of a deal. We've had friends break rods and sling **** all over the inside of the case. Pulled the pan from under the car, pulled out the busted rod and piston, cleaned all the meltal out and poped in a new one and the car ran fine for another 40k.

Yeah, you have to pull plugs when the heads are cold on alum heads. Like I said, an easy out, with some heavy grease on it to keep some of the metal from going inside, then blow out the cylinder and put a new plug in. You will be good to go. Its that simple. We've drilled new EGR passages on heads that were already on the car. They go RIGHT through one side of the head to the other. Just put some grease on the drill bit to keep any watermelon from going into the cylinder.

Morh,we are not talking about crankcase or rods,or EGR.Everyone knows that oil pan removed from under the egine not the top,lol
NOW,if spark plug broke off using the proper tool leaving thread portion in the head,then that cheap ars tool most likely will break as well.
He is not gonna use "snap on" or something good like that anyway,my advise is to remove the head in order to do clean nice job.If he'll do it your way,he will vandalize the thread end will and up buying new head with following removal the old one anyway

FiLtH · « **Reply #24 on:** April 15, 2006, 10:10:48 AM »

Take a potato and ...wait..thats lightbulbs.

Widewing · « **Reply #25 on:** April 15, 2006, 11:07:53 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Kimber1
The problem is the the plug is steel and the head is aluminum, putting those two metals togather with out some kind of insulater will result in the two being corroded togather. To keep this from happening again just put a litttle anti-seize in the treads of the plug before you install them.

I'd go further than that and strongly recommend using anti-seize compound on all spark plugs installed in any engine. Also, torque the plugs to factory specs using a torque wrench. After your next drive, allow the engine to cool to normal ambient temperature and recheck plug torque. Inasmuch as modern plugs have a very long life, doing this every few years is not a big hassle.

My regards,

Widewing

Morpheus · « **Reply #26 on:** April 15, 2006, 03:01:35 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by KgB
Morh,we are not talking about crankcase or rods,or EGR.Everyone knows that oil pan removed from under the egine not the top,lol
NOW,if spark plug broke off using the proper tool leaving thread portion in the head,then that cheap ars tool most likely will break as well.
He is not gonna use "snap on" or something good like that anyway,my advise is to remove the head in order to do clean nice job.If he'll do it your way,he will vandalize the thread end will and up buying new head with following removal the old one anyway

wow aren't you the shmart one. I was using those examples to put this minor mishap he's had with his sparkplug into perspective.

For as much as you "think" you know, you dont know much do you. Where's the EGR passage again? mmmm think about it. Go do your homework sonny.

An ez-out is ot some "cheap ars" tool btw. For the size of the ez-out you'd need to pull a spark plug out, you'd never break it. Your advise to remove the head is just like any advise a dealer would offer if you were to take the car there. They'd rape you with the cost of pulling a head off. Draining the anti freeze, oil, make you pay for a new head gasket, intake gasket, manifold gasket, new oil, new anti freeze, labor, you name it. When all that could be prevented by going to a store and spending a few bucks on 1 bit.

I'm sure you took all that into consideration though right? I mean I didnt work on cars for a living or anything at one point. Or did I?

KgB · « **Reply #27 on:** April 15, 2006, 06:10:20 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Morpheus
wow aren't you the shmart one. I was using those examples to put this minor mishap he's had with his sparkplug into perspective.

For as much as you "think" you know, you dont know much do you. Where's the EGR passage again? mmmm think about it. Go do your homework sonny.

An ez-out is ot some "cheap ars" tool btw. For the size of the ez-out you'd need to pull a spark plug out, you'd never break it. Your advise to remove the head is just like any advise a dealer would offer if you were to take the car there. They'd rape you with the cost of pulling a head off. Draining the anti freeze, oil, make you pay for a new head gasket, intake gasket, manifold gasket, new oil, new anti freeze, labor, you name it. When all that could be prevented by going to a store and spending a few bucks on 1 bit.

I'm sure you took all that into consideration though right? I mean I didnt work on cars for a living or anything at one point. Or did I?

Sonny?Do your home work?
Watch your mouth kid,I'm older then you.
I do this for a living,i deal with this crap every day.If you were an "oil change boy" it doesn't make you a technician.
EGR is controlled bypass of exhaust back into intake,it does go thru the head but it doesn't connect directly with comb.chamber.by drilling or re tapping the stud/thread you not screwing with with the chamber,it's either before or after valves.
But you right about one thing,it doesn't hurt to try but it always good to know when to stop hacking.I should have mentioned that before,for that i apologize.

WhiteHawk · « **Reply #28 on:** April 15, 2006, 07:06:18 PM »

If you broke it off so just the threads remain, then hit it with some good penetrating oil and take a break. Then get the biggest size ez out you can fit in there, (make sure you get it at least 1/3rd of the way deep up the ez out bit), and work with it. Be patient, grasshopper, if you break off the ez out you re screwed. Keep repeating the process. If you are getting nowhere, try heating up the ez out bit with a butane torch righ before you dig in. This may help break the mating between the plug and the engine block. Good luck, and no cussing.

Morpheus · « **Reply #29 on:** April 15, 2006, 09:52:31 PM »

Quote

EGR is controlled bypass of exhaust back into intake,it does go thru the head but it doesn't connect directly with comb.chamber

SO let say that drillings fall on top of the valve. Where do they go when the valve opens up?

LOL service center doing brakes didnt teach you much did it.