Wow VWE. I haven't been to Iraq since 1988 when I was stationed there with the UN. They were still fighting when I got in theatre (Iran/Iraq 10 year war).
I was stationed at first in Baghdad, then to Qalat Saleh and Amarah. Used to take our days off in Basra (BEAUTIFUL city). Iranian snipers used to shoot at us when ever we drove up to the border at first for our first inspection. Took a few 'correcting' negotiations to resolve future incidents - if you know what I mean. But what I would give to go back when it settles down years from now.
I remember the Kurds, Shi'ites and Sunni's hated one another back then. Took Saddam and a a lot of secret police to keep one another apart. - but I tihnk that Saddam himself was Sunni (minority) and was pretty brutal on the Kurds and Shi'ites. Take away the power void (sheithead Saddam), and presto - Shi'ites hatred comes full swing - and I really can't blame them. Saddam killed thousands of Kurds and Shi'ites. We also got to experience it first hand on what a brutal dictator he was - he used to play games all the time with the Canadian military. Take away our leased UN vehicles, withhold/delay supply shipments, restrict our movement, disallow all photography, change our accomidations, videotape and record our crypto gear before it got off the plane, custom officials would rob us blind at the airport, lost mail, lost supplies, dipliomatic bags searched at the airport...guy was a real gem.
Too bad, Iraq is a BEAUTIFUL country. They might have to break it up into religious states or provinces for it to exist peacefully. The secular violence we're seeing now has been going on for um... around 6-700 years now. Perhaps a lot longer if you base it on the tribal family lines (thousands of years). I used to drive all over Baghdad and down that highway/road of death back in the 80's - visiting neighbourhoods and villages, talking with elders and secular leaders. I have some pretty beautiful picutres of the place - perhaps when I get time I'll post them.
Good luck over the VWE - keep ur head down mate! Don't forget to take pictures of the landscape when you're out and about