Pulling lead

[Dawger]

The ammo counter in the film tells a different story,  You do use the 20MM, the order of the film according to the ammo counter is also different then the order of the films as numbered.  According to the ammo counter the order of the films is film 1, film 4, film 2,  Film 3 will not down load properly.  according to the film you presented, the "quick Kill" were all aided by the 20MM.  Who Knows?  Anyone reviewing the films knows, just zoom in inside the cockpit and look at the ammo counters. 

Sure, enough when I was low G, close in I pressed the cannon button. Seems like that is when I said I used the cannon.

I didn't number the films in any particular order.

I still doubt I hit anything with cannon but it could be that I did. I'm glad you took the time to fact check and discover that I did use the cannon.

Thanks

[Murdr]

Make use of the Lead Computing Gunsight feature, and practice with it a bit to gain an eye for how much you need to adjust your lead in different scenarios.

To enable offline, Clipboard>options>arena setup>environment>arena settings>flightmodeflags


Online it is already enabled in the Training Arena.  To use it, all one needs to do is hit Ctl-tab to enable friendly lock, and tab to select the friendly target.  Enemy lock is enabled by default.


If you have different gun types, it will display a lead crosshair for both types.  The 20mm M2 and .50 cal M2 have similar muzzle velocities and ballistics at close range in the screen shot.


The 30mm Mk 108 on the other hand is slower and requires more lead than the 13mm MG 131s.  Which really shows in the following high aspect screen shot.

[EskimoJoe]

1. Turn your tracers off. They hide the hit sprites and let the enemy know you are shooting at him.

I find that a bad idea if you are having trouble. Spend some time in the TA with tracers on. Ask some people if you could practice your gunnery on them.

It takes awhile to learn how to shoot accurately from different angles and distances. Your best bet is to play around with shooting, seeing where your rounds land, and self-correcting.

**Look at murdr's post above, that is a great way to learn.

[Zazen13]

The rule of thumb for shooting position and lead I use is this:

1) If I have a turn-rate advantage, whether innate or by virtue of relative speed, I prefer a lead pursuit somewhat in excess of that required for the current angle of deflection for a shot. Then when I am ready to fire I just relax it a bit for the actual shot angle. This forces the less maneuverable bandit to do some drastic, E sacrificing maneuver to spoil the shot or he's toast.

2) If I am at a turn-rate disadvantage, whether innate or by virtue of relative speed, I prefer a lag pursuit prior to firing, all other factors being equal. This allows me to conserve energy in anticipation of having to counter a radical maneuver by the bandit to get angles. If I tried to match or exceed his turn-rate to pull lead for an extended period he would bleed me dry if I did not score a killing blow immediately. When I am ready to fire I will get perfectly "in-plane" with him then pull lead for what amounts to a snap shot as I likely will not have the sustained turn-rate to hold that firing position for long on a more maneuverable foe.

[Ghosth]

9 times out of 10 if people are really having trouble hitting, they are trying to shoot too far out.

Trying to figure the lead for a 400 + yard shot is more than twice as hard as doing the same for a 200 yard shot.
For every 100 yards you add to the distance you can figure 5 to 10x the difficulty. So if your having problems, start by pulling where you expect to shoot back in a bit. Remember 440 yards is 1/4 of a mile. Chances are you wouldn't try to hit a running deer with a rifle at those ranges.

Also depending on plane and armament, sometimes its better not to try to track them. But instead take snapshots as they cross your nose. For one, you have a much bigger, usually much closer target. A couple of good snapshot hits will often knock something vital off, leaving you with a much easier to win fight.

[The Fugitive]

9 times out of 10 if people are really having trouble hitting, they are trying to shoot too far out.

Trying to figure the lead for a 400 + yard shot is more than twice as hard as doing the same for a 200 yard shot.
For every 100 yards you add to the distance you can figure 5 to 10x the difficulty. So if your having problems, start by pulling where you expect to shoot back in a bit. Remember 440 yards is 1/4 of a mile. Chances are you wouldn't try to hit a running deer with a rifle at those ranges.

Also depending on plane and armament, sometimes its better not to try to track them. But instead take snapshots as they cross your nose. For one, you have a much bigger, usually much closer target. A couple of good snapshot hits will often knock something vital off, leaving you with a much easier to win fight.

Well Ghost, I was going to ask you if you had any training tips for learning to aim better. I know even after all these years its the one thing that gives me the biggest trouble.

[Traveler]

Sure, enough when I was low G, close in I pressed the cannon button. Seems like that is when I said I used the cannon.

I didn't number the films in any particular order.

I still doubt I hit anything with cannon but it could be that I did. I'm glad you took the time to fact check and discover that I did use the cannon.

Thanks

What you said was:
"I use the 50 cals for most shots and the P38 package usually doesn't need the 20MM to get a quick kill. I doubt I used the cannon for any of the shots in the films but who knows." 

You used the 20MM for each of the kills recorded in the films you presented.   True you only use the cannon when close in and I agree with that tactic, however, your doubt as to wether you used cannon for any of the recorded kills, well, the film you provided tells a different story.

[Dawger]

So would you like for me to post films where I don't use cannon and still get quick kills.
?
 I've got three days off.
The point is 4 .50 cals packed in the nose of the P38 are sufficient to achieve kills.

As a side note I've figured out which end of Robert E. Lee's horse is your namesake.

PS...At least one of the films already posted is cannon-less.

[VonMessa]

I'm not an expert by any stretch, but...

NOT using the traditional trigger (i.e. "meat-hooking" it with your index finger) has helped me a lot.  I use my thumb for cannons.  My hit % has improved since I have been using a different input for the MG and the Cannon.  Just like shooting a weapon in the real world, pulling too hard on the trigger can affect your shot, and you won't even realize it.

what do you do about nose bounce when you're zoomed in that far? i have my dampning, and deadbands up, and i've scaled my inputs back fairly heavily, but it still bounces waaaayyy too much....only zoomed though.

I also have (my elevators) scaled back fairly heavily. 

I've been flying with maximum sensitivity in all axis for quite a long time and I've always flown with the same model stick. The end result is a very light touch on the controls. If you have a tight grip overcontrolling will result (same as in a high-performance airplane in real life). That is the first (and most important) step in reducing nose bounce. If you need more than one finger and a thumb to fly then you probably have too tight a grip.

The zoom is very short. I have it mapped so that it is in zoom when I hold the button and on release it returns to normal view so I am only in that view for actual shooting. The field of view is too small for anything other than the shot and on snapshots I don't zoom. A true snapshot won't be helped by zoom anyway.



The best way to learn to shoot is by shooting. Offline drones, DA furball lake, a buddy willing to let you shoot at him.

Theory is great but there is no substitute for doing.

And I am a recent convert to no tracers (~ 6 months). My gunnery in Warbirds was excellent but I spent 2 years in AH with average gunnery. Turn the tracers off and within a few weeks my gunnery improved 1000%.

Now I'm making shots that are instinctive and extremely accurate. I can't imagine ever turning them back on.

Without being contrary, Dawger, I would have to disagree.  Some of us do not have the same control over fine motor skills as do others.  I also realized that rudder pedals were going to be a must as the twisty stick was only making me reach for the Advil 




Practice Practice Practice !!!

Also, like others have said.  Get CLOSE............

Then get CLOSER   

[Delirium]

I hope you were a lefty for those 'intimate' alone times. 

It sort reminds me when I was a trainer on AW, I asked a student if he had a HOTAS system. I was surprised when the raw newbie said he did and I told him it is generally better to have views with the hand that manipulates the throttle and not the stick. He came back with the one comment I didn't expect...

"OK, but I only have one hand."

He was a great student, a great guy, and had a great attitude about the game and life in general.

[VonMessa]

I play the drums (although not as much as before) so I'm fairly ambidextrous. 

Only having one hand, though?  That would be hard.  Try tying your shoes with one hand.   

I    that guy.

[Yenny]

I only fire when i'm at 200 yards or under. I have my convergence at 400 yards. However, 95% of my shots are under 200. Since a lot of my shots are at super high deflection angles, I usually don't see my target xplode. I usually half blacking out and coming out w/ a kill message. I don't know hwo to explain it. A lot of it is in my set up as I approach my target. Here are a few films that could help you see how I aim. Most of my kills takes about 10-20 rounds fired. On D-9 I usually hit 10 kills and a few assists by 250 cannon rounds fires. so bout 20ish rounds per kill. Usually a good 5 rounds will kill almost any fighter planes.

http://files.filefront.com/Airfield+Capping+2ahf/;11594440;/fileinfo.html

[FiLtH]

  Ive always found shooting from dead 6 is the hardest for me. Especially P38s..they are like shooting a razor's edge. Very thin.

[Getback]

I'm not sure which stick you have but if it has multiple hats you can set one up so that it raises you in the seat. That way you can see where your tracers are going a wee bit better. This however depends on the type of plane. In the F4U's it helps only marginally because of the long nose.

[jacks]

I only fire when i'm at 200 yards or under. I have my convergence at 400 yards. However, 95% of my shots are under 200. Since a lot of my shots are at super high deflection angles, I usually don't see my target xplode. I usually half blacking out and coming out w/ a kill message. I don't know hwo to explain it. A lot of it is in my set up as I approach my target. Here are a few films that could help you see how I aim. Most of my kills takes about 10-20 rounds fired. On D-9 I usually hit 10 kills and a few assists by 250 cannon rounds fires. so bout 20ish rounds per kill. Usually a good 5 rounds will kill almost any fighter planes.

http://files.filefront.com/Airfield+Capping+2ahf/;11594440;/fileinfo.html

Yenny's General Stats for Late War Tour 107
Total Sorties: 55
Total Sortie Time: 05:46:58
Sortie Type         End Sortie Type
Fighter    3         Landed    5
Attack    52         Discos    1
Bomber    0         Bails    12
VehicleBoat    0         Ditches    3
FieldGunner    0         Captured    7

  Deaths    27