observation from pigpen post/photos

[DAVENRINO]

It's probably the wire running to the pots and not the pot.

Maybe so, but he didn't specify what "toe brake problem".

I have heard of the wire problem but the only problems my CH pedals have given me in 7 years are the pots.

[Rich46yo]

If your having to recalibrate alot it might be that the USB doesn't have enough power. Have you added any new USB items lately? I always suggest getting a powered USB Hub. It is inexpensive and fixes a lot of problems.

Naw, thanks for the help but this is one I'm going to have to write off. Ive tried other USB hubs, connections, everything you can think of. Like any piece of hardware there are little gremlins you have to live with. And once I do calibrate it everything works fine.

Im a tinker'er by nature and Ive tried to just keep hands off things as long as they work. In fairness the X-52 has allowed me to hone my game without having to hone to many computer skills.

[Fugita]

I'll take your X-52 Banshee! My trigger just croaked on mine.  sufferin without a trigger till i can talk the wife into letting me get a new stick....

Want to get one of these

(the F-18E stick w/ dual throttles)

http://www.hirevsims.com/01prod/fltcontrl/fcntrl/misc/misc01.htm

Just bought one at Circuit City. My first. Had the extreme 3D Pro till now. Wife ack let me but it due to the "Going out of business Bargain Bonanza Days"

[Ack-Ack]

It's probably the wire running to the pots and not the pot.

Actually the problem with the Pro Pedals is at the point where the main cable goes into the top end of the pedals.  Usually, if you wiggle the cable where it enters the pedals, it will fix the problem.  It is a design flaw that been inherent to the Pro Pedals since they were initially designed and due to the cost of making a new mold, it was decided back then not to fix the problem.  The problem is the wiring gets pinched from the main cable as it goes into the pedals.


ack-ack

[bongaroo]

The problem I discovered upon opening the thing up was that one of the wires running to the brake pot had been severed.  No problem with the main wire running into the shell.

[rip033]

I bought an x-52 a while back for the heck of it and sat my 3d pro down. The x-52 had to be calibrated everyday. I bought a powered hub thinking that would fix it but it didnt So i bought the whole CH set up (fighterstick, throttle, and pedals) and havent looked back. IMHO Ch is so much better for me anyways. I still have the x-52 boxed up in my computer room. The x-52 looks flashy but thats about it. Its just crazy how some people have great experiences with somethings and others have nightmares with it.

[Vulcan]

The problem I discovered upon opening the thing up was that one of the wires running to the brake pot had been severed.  No problem with the main wire running into the shell.

Same, reconnected the wire and it still didn't work. Not sure if the pot died as well or the wire problem lead to other issues further in the circuit.

[texastc316]

the prob with the x52 losing calibration is the software. this software also limits the buttons for use in game. I run the x52 with no software, just plugged in and played AH. have all buttons and never lose callibration. I have 2 squaddies that had the prob with it too. Once they got rid of ALL the software it worked perfectlty.

[Hawk78th]

I was one of those X52'rs that had to keep calibrating..    Waaaaay too often.... Then I found a thread about Power management of USB hubs and don't ya know I haven't Calibrated my X52 Since... hmmmmmmmm   

Start menu
   Settings--
      Control panel--
         System--
               "Hardware tab"--
                    Device manager--
                       (clik the +) for "USB Controllers"--
                              Right clik "USB Root hub"--
                                  "Properties"--
                                           under Power management tab... UNCHECK the  "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"

Do this for any of the USB Root hub that might be in your system (I have two)

 I'll bet ya won't have any more issues with "recalibrating"

 ......and the Powered USB is still a good idea

 

[bongaroo]

I was one of those X52'rs that had to keep calibrating..    Waaaaay too often.... Then I found a thread about Power management of USB hubs and don't ya know I haven't Calibrated my X52 Since... hmmmmmmmm   

Start menu
   Settings--
      Control panel--
         System--
               "Hardware tab"--
                    Device manager--
                       (clik the +) for "USB Controllers"--
                              Right clik "USB Root hub"--
                                  "Properties"--
                                           under Power management tab... UNCHECK the  "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"

Do this for any of the USB Root hub that might be in your system (I have two)

 I'll bet ya won't have any more issues with "recalibrating"

 ......and the Powered USB is still a good idea

 

Another good tip.  I had also heard about the software creating issues.  I don't have it installed.  Just plug and play.

[Xasthur]

As long as its working right the X-52 is a fine choice, "boy that made a lot of sense right"?

I just went about 4 months without ever having to even calibrate mine. Now, for about a week now, Ive had to recalibrate almost every time I change planes or vehicles. Next I'll have another good 4 month run. Who knows why?

Overall Im happy with mine but I had a lot of problems when I first bought it. Ive heard good things about the new beta release of their SST software but frankly Im afraid to try it since the old version still works for me. I'd probably go CH next time around but Im not totally unhappy with my X-52 Saitek stuff.

Rich, do you run your X52 through a powered USB hub?

I had calibration problems with mine when I plugged it into the computer directly. I bought a $30 USB hub that has it's own wall-plug power source and plug my X52 into that.

I've calibrated my stick once since I bought that and that was almost a year ago. I hadn't used the stick for ages either, so I suspect that's why it needed to be recalibrated.

[HomeBoy]

...
It is a design flaw that been inherent to the Pro Pedals since they were initially designed
...

I tried to point this out at the CH-Hangar one time and used a phrase similar to "design flaw" and got reprimanded pretty good by both Debby and Revvin.  I have been very careful since in discussing this very definite problem over there.  These are good folks but you have to be careful what you say and how you say it.  That's a business with pretty thin profit margins and a volatile market so it's understandable they could be a bit edgy some times.

Personally, I have repaired a number of pedals whose toe brakes have stopped working.  If they had just used a little bigger wire there would not be a problem.  The way I fix them is to replace those wires with larger gauge ones.

[shiv]

Von, thanks,

But, my wife as of today approved my purchase order for a new stick..  .  I think I am going to order one from the website I listed above.. either that or a CH setup (Minus the pedals, my saitek pedals are still good to go).  Question though, anyone use CH stick with X52 throttle? I REALLY like the throttle on the X52... was wondering if it is possible to use a mix?

Sol

Sol -

Yep, it's no problem at all.  I use my old X52 throttle with a CH Fighterstick   Now when I go to Map Controllers, I see my pedals, the X52, and the CH stick and each are set up independently.

shiv

[Ack-Ack]

I tried to point this out at the CH-Hangar one time and used a phrase similar to "design flaw" and got reprimanded pretty good by both Debby and Revvin.  I have been very careful since in discussing this very definite problem over there.  These are good folks but you have to be careful what you say and how you say it.  That's a business with pretty thin profit margins and a volatile market so it's understandable they could be a bit edgy some times.

Personally, I have repaired a number of pedals whose toe brakes have stopped working.  If they had just used a little bigger wire there would not be a problem.  The way I fix them is to replace those wires with larger gauge ones.

Yeah, they were touchy about it too when I worked there but it is what it is.  Honestly, I don't blame them for not correcting it, to redo the mold would have been extremely expensive.  It really blew me away to find out how much the molds cost to make and it's something that is relatively easy to fix in most cases, just wiggle the wire.


ack-ack

[bongaroo]

Yeah, they were touchy about it too when I worked there but it is what it is.  Honestly, I don't blame them for not correcting it, to redo the mold would have been extremely expensive.  It really blew me away to find out how much the molds cost to make and it's something that is relatively easy to fix in most cases, just wiggle the wire.


ack-ack

Unless the wire to the toe brake is completely cut in two.  No amount of wiggling will help that problem.  Not a hard fix as Homeboy stated, just a PITA to reassemble.