I feel confident that i can do it. From studying the area, all i can see that i have to do to loosing both ends, remove the line, put the new line on and tighting the ends. What about the brake fluid, will i have to worry loosing a lot of it
yes, you will. when you're doing the line itself, keep the lid on the master cylinder. this will minimize loss of fluid.
soak the fittings in wd40, or some sort of rust buster. make sure you use line wrenches on the line fittings....once they're loose, you can use a plain old open end wrench. when you re-tighten, use the line wrench again.
make sure you have a wrench on the nut that the flare nut if threaded into. also soak the poop out of the bleeder screws on the back wheels too......check to make sure you can loosen them, before you do the line, because if not, you won't have any way to bleed them.
once you've got the lines loose, you need to work somewhat quickly, so the master cylinder doesn't completely empty out.
once the new line is in place, and tight, remove the lid from the master, fill it to the top, and open the bleeders on the back wheels. make sure you have something to catch the brake fluid in. it'll take 5 or 10 minutes for them to gravity bleed. keep an eye on the master as they gravity bleed.
once you see decent fluid dripping from the wheel bleeders, close them both, and have an assistant pump the brake pedal........open the p/s bleeder first....pedal in the floor, them holding it, close it, and repeat till you get only fluid out. repeat same process with drivers side.
if at any point the master cylinder goes completely empty, you'll have to bleed the fronts too......you use the same process.
