Website

[Killer91]

I finally got it up and running! I've only got about 90 pictures uploaded so far but there will be more everyday. Check it out and let me know if you find anything that needs fixed/typos, that kind of stuff. Enjoy the pictures! 

Also feedback on the pictures is apprectiated as well. I'm still new to photography and any feedback good or bad is welcomed!

http://dktpictures.webs.com/

[Dichotomy]

 

[LLogann]

What brand are you using and what rig(s) do you have?

This shot here.... http://dktpictures.webs.com/IMG_0888.JPG   A longer exposure would have brought out more of the landscape.  Probably too early in your career to talk about bracketing but that is really the way to go with any shot that is going to be both super-dark & super-bright.

[Killer91]

What brand are you using and what rig(s) do you have?

This shot here.... http://dktpictures.webs.com/IMG_0888.JPG   A longer exposure would have brought out more of the landscape.  Probably too early in your career to talk about bracketing but that is really the way to go with any shot that is going to be both super-dark & super-bright.

I have a Canon Rebel XS with a 18-55 mm lens and a 70-300 mm lens. I also have a UV filter for each lens And a tripod to mount it all on.

That particular picture was taken with the 18-55mm lens at 18mm zoom without the UV filter.
F/stop - 4.5
Exposure - 1/50 sec
ISO Speed - 200

Exposure is the only one I understand and can effectivly adjust. I'm still not sure what the F/stop and ISO speed do. I've expimented with them but can't figure out where to set them so I leave them on auto usually. I know about as much about photography as a two weeker knows about AH lol
I'll do some research on bracketing and see what I can learn from that!

[Killer91]

I finally got it up and running! I've only got about 90 pictures uploaded so far but there will be more everyday. Check it out and let me know if you find anything that needs fixed/typos, that kind of stuff. Enjoy the pictures! 

Also feedback on the pictures is apprectiated as well. I'm still new to photography and any feedback good or bad is welcomed!

http://dktpictures.webs.com/

Just put 87 new pictures up from the Alliance Airshow in Ft Worth!

[68Hawk]

Nice shots!

My Grandfather flew in the same squadron as that P-51 with MX 6 numbers.  It's neat seeing those photos.

[Killer91]

Nice shots!

My Grandfather flew in the same squadron as that P-51 with MX 6 numbers.  It's neat seeing those photos.

Thanks!

Wow that amazing! I'm glad i could share them with you 

[jimson]

Cool pictures and nice job on the site!

[LLogann]

I'm not sure the XS can bracket.    

fStop is basically the depth of focus.  A low number, or high aperture, will open the lens up really wide allowing as much light as possible to enter.  But the downside is it makes your focus depth very shallow making most things aside from the subject (or focus point) soft and out of focus.  This photo is an example of such (Yes, I had to crop out the bottom half, sorry)  You'll notice even her tattoo is "soft" and that is only a few inches from her face, the focus point.  


With a high fStop number, or low aperture, you will have the lens open a very small amount not allowing much light in at all.  But you will have a very large depth to your focus, like in the photo below.  Notice not only the subject is focused but also the structure behind her, some 45 feet away from the focus point.  


ISO (or ASA) is a reference back to the film days.  The "speed of the film" or actually, the size of the Silver Nitrate particles on the film.  Quick photo history lesson.....  Silver Nitrate is what makes photography happen and it is sensitive to light.  A 50 ISO speed film has very very small particles, whereas 3200 ISO has really big particles.  The smaller the particle, the more light it needs to expose correctly, thus affecting the exposure time.  The larger the particles, the more light is absorbed in a given period of time and as such needs less time to expose the shot correctly.  The drawback of high ISO speed films is the grain that is created by the LARGE particles.  

The reason behind why we still use the term ISO is because of the way the image sensor works....  When we make it more sensitive to the light, we also add more "noise" to the frame.  So these days, we replace "grain" with "noise."  For practical purposes it's the same exact thing.  

I sent you a PM with my email.  

Exposure is the only one I understand and can effectivly adjust. I'm still not sure what the F/stop and ISO speed do. I've expimented with them but can't figure out where to set them so I leave them on auto usually. I know about as much about photography as a two weeker knows about AH lol
I'll do some research on bracketing and see what I can learn from that!

[Killer91]

I'm not sure the XS can bracket.    

fStop is basically the depth of focus.  A low number, or high aperture, will open the lens up really wide allowing as much light as possible to enter.  But the downside is it makes your focus depth very shallow making most things aside from the subject (or focus point) soft and out of focus.  This photo is an example of such (Yes, I had to crop out the bottom half, sorry)  You'll notice even her tattoo is "soft" and that is only a few inches from her face, the focus point.  
(Image removed from quote.)

With a high fStop number, or low aperture, you will have the lens open a very small amount not allowing much light in at all.  But you will have a very large depth to your focus, like in the photo below.  Notice not only the subject is focused but also the structure behind her, some 45 feet away from the focus point.  
(Image removed from quote.)

ISO (or ASA) is a reference back to the film days.  The "speed of the film" or actually, the size of the Silver Nitrate particles on the film.  Quick photo history lesson.....  Silver Nitrate is what makes photography happen and it is sensitive to light.  A 50 ISO speed film has very very small particles, whereas 3200 ISO has really big particles.  The smaller the particle, the more light it needs to expose correctly, thus affecting the exposure time.  The larger the particles, the more light is absorbed in a given period of time and as such needs less time to expose the shot correctly.  The drawback of high ISO speed films is the grain that is created by the LARGE particles.  

The reason behind why we still use the term ISO is because of the way the image sensor works....  When we make it more sensitive to the light, we also add more "noise" to the frame.  So these days, we replace "grain" with "noise."  For practical purposes it's the same exact thing.  

I sent you a PM with my email.  

Ok well that definately clears thing up a lot.. It's dark now but tomorrow I'm definately going out to try different settings.
I have one more question for the moment. I've seen these lenses call Polarizing Lens and sometimes CPL. How helpful are these and is it worth buying one?

[LLogann]

CPL filters are the same for practical purposes..... "Circular Polarizing Lens" filter.  The other is linear polarizing filter, but that will usually not work with an auto-focus camera. 

For practical purposes we'll refer to CPL's as just polarizing filters.   

A polarizing filter will allow you to shoot through non-metal reflective surfaces such as glass and water with little reflection.  The suns position can ruin a shot if your subject is behind glass, whether a person or something in a museum.  If you don't want the landscape to reflect off the water.  If you are trying to create high contrast photos of the sky.  All good reasons to use a polarizing filter.  However a polarizing filter will drop you a Stop or two. 

"Drop a Stop?"  Basically adding more glass to the end of the lens or using a tele-converter will cause your camera to have to slow down.  If shooting in P, at dusk, at 800 ISO, you might get something like 160 shutter & 4.5 fStop.  If you added a filter to the end (drop a Stop) it will put you at (still in P) 160 shutter & 4.0 fStop.   

Polarizing filters are (for practical purposes) a must for landscape photogs.  So based on what I've seen from you, you'll want to get one. 

Here is a quick read on polarizing filters......
http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/polarizing-filter.html

In general, I rarely go to websites for info, I'll usually call a buddy in my large network of shooters but DPReview is a dam good site for finding knowledge.......  http://www.dpreview.com/



 

[Killer91]

Ok thanks! I'll look into getting one of these then since almost every picture I take is outdoors.

I was at the Red River today and got to try out different settings and here's some of the pictures I took.



Notice the tremendous debris piles from the last time it got big.


An upside down tree.


Armadillo in the grass.


A picture frame for the moon.

[MarineUS]

heyyyyy i use webs.com toooooooo

    


 

[LLogann]

Do you have a tripod Killer91?  If not, try to find a level surface that you can set the camera on and use the timer for a few shots.  Now turn your fStop all the way up to like 22.  Reason for the timer is.... Unless your in the desert or the beach or some other sunny spot with a highly reflective setting, it will be tough to hold the camera through it's shutter time open.  f22 might take as long as a full second of exposure time.  Almost impossible to stay focused without help. 

But it will give you a HUGE depth of focus(depth of field / DOF) and just about the entire scene will appear to be sharp. 

Also when it comes to DOF, the general rule of thumb is 1/3 in front, 2/3's behind the focus point.  It doesn't evenly distribute the "sharpness."

[DMGOD]

nice tip on the f22 thing. Huge difference in pics pretty cool stuff