Author Topic: i shouldn't do this  (Read 2126 times)

Offline kamori

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #90 on: April 25, 2011, 06:33:13 PM »
 :huh
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 06:36:49 PM by kamori »

Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #91 on: April 25, 2011, 06:51:25 PM »
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Offline kamori

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #92 on: April 25, 2011, 06:58:46 PM »
\

bbs farted did it?

Yeah Big Time .......   :(

Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #93 on: April 25, 2011, 07:07:04 PM »
Yeah Big Time .......   :(

shoulda lit a match.  :devil :bolt:
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Offline icepac

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #94 on: April 25, 2011, 09:10:35 PM »
this week, i am working on a 1987 jaguar xj6, tires, and front brake hoses,
2001 chevy 3500 box van rear axle seal, rear brakes, front brake rotors, transmission filter
1996 honda civic timing belt, and water pump
1995 olds cutlass cierra muffler
1994 honda civiv intermediate pipe
1996 pontiac bonneville oil change, and tire rotation

 whoops.....that's tomorrow.

One-upmanship?

Setting up the data acquisition system entails.

Removal of the dashboard and console.

Removal of body panels to fit linear ride height sensors to the suspension.

Fabrication of mounts of said sensors and car show quality mounting of data acquisition unit.

Running wires that integrate it into the ford gauge driver unit.

Running wires for the sensors, gps antenna, and smarty camera.  (all wires soldered and shrinkwrapped.)

Setting up software for signal types of sensors used and range.

Removing the springs from the coilovers and jacking the car to "learn the unit" the full suspension travel.

Putting the car on alignment pads and using heavy weights to "learn the unit" the "as installed" spring rates.

After it's back together, then the car has to be run up at various speeds up to 200mph and data reduced so we can determine what the lift and/or downforce will be at 270mph or more.

Align car based on findings to avoid a dangerous instability at high speeds by duplicating ride heights found at speed on the alignment rack using weight/jacking and adjusting alignment , stance, and ride height to produce stable ride at speed.

And that's what "setting up the data acquisition system means.


Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #95 on: April 25, 2011, 09:15:54 PM »
ok....so here's my question.

 why buy a car, and then modify it so it has over 1,000 "streetable" horsepower, when you can go to your local dealer, and buy one of these?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxBla4-lIuI
 it's not 1,000 horsepower, but it is a car that could easily be a daily driver, with no need of anything special('cept for lots of money to obtain it)......but then it costs as much to make a "streetable" car as mentioned above.

 the difference here, is that "streetable" simply means you can drive it on the street. but can you use it as a daily driver? doubtful. i've seen people make such claims before, and every one of them eventually admits that they're not daily drivers.
 the best part is that the super snake is supposed to be over 800hp for 2012. compared to what? 625 from the 6.2 in the camaro?  :devil
the only drawback is that there will be no warranty on the 800hp+ version.

 there is however, the gt350. i think there's an option on that one that's only got 624hp. more in line with the little guys.  :aok
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Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #96 on: April 25, 2011, 09:20:58 PM »
One-upmanship?

Setting up the data acquisition system entails.

Removal of the dashboard and console.

Removal of body panels to fit linear ride height sensors to the suspension.

Fabrication of mounts of said sensors and car show quality mounting of data acquisition unit.

Running wires that integrate it into the ford gauge driver unit.

Running wires for the sensors, gps antenna, and smarty camera.  (all wires soldered and shrinkwrapped.)

Setting up software for signal types of sensors used and range.

Removing the springs from the coilovers and jacking the car to "learn the unit" the full suspension travel.

Putting the car on alignment pads and using heavy weights to "learn the unit" the "as installed" spring rates.

After it's back together, then the car has to be run up at various speeds up to 200mph and data reduced so we can determine what the lift and/or downforce will be at 270mph or more.

Align car based on findings to avoid a dangerous instability at high speeds by duplicating ride heights found at speed on the alignment rack using weight/jacking and adjusting alignment , stance, and ride height to produce stable ride at speed.

And that's what "setting up the data acquisition system means.


not so much 1-upmanship, as what i get to do for a living.

 while sometimes, i'd rather be working on nothing but high performance cars, when it comes right down to it, i can fix virtually anything that's street legal, and can fit into my bays......and i love that feeling.
 this is from nearly 30 years of doing exactly that....fixing whatever the day brings me. even the high performance stuff. i don't think i'd trade what i do now, for anything to be honest.

and although it's not what you work on....that 800hp camaro i've posted pictures of? wanna guess who built everything 'cept the engine and tranny on that car?  :devil
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Offline flight17

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #97 on: April 25, 2011, 10:12:04 PM »
I loved the Mustang until the "fixed" the rear end on it. The only thing i like on it now is the front end and the turn signals on the back... those are just cool....

but now im in love the Camaro... want to get a yellow one and Transform(er) it out...
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Offline CAP1

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Offline Shuffler

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #99 on: April 26, 2011, 09:23:13 AM »
I loved the Mustang until the "fixed" the rear end on it. The only thing i like on it now is the front end and the turn signals on the back... those are just cool....

but now im in love the Camaro... want to get a yellow one and Transform(er) it out...

I agree. The mustang looked good when the "new" 60's body style came out. Reminded me a bit of my '67. Since then they have destroyed the back end.
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Offline Babalonian

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #100 on: April 26, 2011, 02:07:30 PM »
you mean 12 month younger?> :D

 yea......always do the water pump if your taking the timing belt off. this one is a new customer, and they just want it....they don't want it checked or anything.....they just moved here from the west coast.

Details, details, and relativety, younger to us mortals, etc., etc...

Not a whole lot that needs to be done to a Honda to keep it happy and healthy.  Water pump being one, the radiator another, and oil changes at least once a year by even the most neglectful.  About everything else you can patch up enough to make it to a shop or home with the shirt off your back, your belt, and a proper amount of piss or water.  Their water pumps are relatively cheap too I think... still... maybe...  :furious .  Still relatively cheap to maintain a Honda, but it's not getting any cheaper out there to maintain any car these days.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #101 on: April 26, 2011, 02:46:31 PM »
Details, details, and relativety, younger to us mortals, etc., etc...

Not a whole lot that needs to be done to a Honda to keep it happy and healthy.  Water pump being one, the radiator another, and oil changes at least once a year by even the most neglectful.  About everything else you can patch up enough to make it to a shop or home with the shirt off your back, your belt, and a proper amount of piss or water.  Their water pumps are relatively cheap too I think... still... maybe...  :furious .  Still relatively cheap to maintain a Honda, but it's not getting any cheaper out there to maintain any car these days.

gotta watch with the newer ones with variable valve timing though.........i've had a couple with clogged screens on the VVT solenoid. on the hondas, i can simply remove it, clean it, and put it back, and all is good.
 on the gm's(try to not act too shocked), it's harder than that......you can't just clean them. you have to replace that solenoid. i think the last one i did, was nearly $400.
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Offline icepac

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #102 on: April 26, 2011, 03:32:15 PM »
That model honda is notorious for pushing out front engine seals.

I've seen a few come in for used car inspection just pouring oil and I find the seals are not so much leaking but rather left the bore where they sit.

Offline CAP1

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #103 on: April 26, 2011, 03:35:57 PM »
That model honda is notorious for pushing out front engine seals.

I've seen a few come in for used car inspection just pouring oil and I find the seals are not so much leaking but rather left the bore where they sit.

if they've left the bore, there has to be a reason. generally a pcv problem.

 the ford 5.0 liter engines used to be notorious for pushing the oil pan gasket out...but it wasn't a ford problem for the most part, but rather a maintenance problem....as in lack of knowledge on the mechanics part.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 03:38:55 PM by CAP1 »
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Offline Babalonian

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Re: i shouldn't do this
« Reply #104 on: April 26, 2011, 04:32:09 PM »
I honestly figured that front seal problem in civics during that time was because half of them were being used by young men or teenagers and half of them were buying and installing their own supercharger and exhaust kits, I figured they knew as much about powerplants as they did their audio systems (which as a youth I did for a neighbor's buisness for some spare $$) so it was most likely consumer-generated issues (lack of maintenance, installing their supercharger backwards, etc.) and not a manufacturer's defect.  When I bought my current Honda ('97 civic 4-door) I made sure the previous owner didn't f!@# around with it or mod it too outrageously.

Only major problem my '97 Honda has had that was a bit odd in my book was the head gasket seals started leaking water, but due to corosion starting to set in within the head gasket itself and not the seals.  The corosion was just starting and my mechanic talked me into letting someone he knew resurface the headgasket for cheaper than a new or used one, and because he had a good feeling it would do the trick because the corosion was so minimal, and it did, hasn't been a problem with it for over 4 years.

Current bi!@ on the "to be fixed when I have the $$$" list is my passenger rack and pin (also my engine mounts need a replacing, but talk about a "luxury" expence/priority in my book  ;) ), it's just a tad loose, and maaaaan have they gotten a tad more expencive than I last remember, but in the end it's all probabley my fault originaly from somewhere along the line and 100k miles I've put on it...  :P


The only developing annoyance I'm having currently is the drivers-side wheel well.  I think I may of found the only blatantly retarded thing to come off the Honda drafting boards.  (now if I can describe it properly...)  Where the front corner panel meets the hood ontop and joins the body is about dead-center the tire as it sits in place.  Reach up into said wheele well and feel the top of the well, there's an... "outdented" crease that normaly has a heavy plastic/rubber linning over it to act as a layer of protection (from the tire I'm assuming, but could be a GP one for corrosion, etc.).  Without this layer of rubber protection, this outdented crease of where two sheet of metal combine is positioned and angled perfectly to keep chewing the same 1/16"-1/8" radial bit my tire tread every time my little honda civic hits a dip or bump.  So now I can't figure out if my problem is A) that protective layer is gone, exposing the metal to the tire's tread when you hit a dip or bump, so I need to replace or recoat it, B) shocks or something in the suspension is too old and needs to be replaced, or C) I won't lie, my tires are the cheapest I could find and made in some corner of Korea most of us have likely never heard of, so maybe I need better tires.  (Then there's D) my driving, but anywho...)
-Babalon
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