Author Topic: Photography  (Read 1860 times)

Offline ink

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Re: Photography
« Reply #30 on: June 04, 2011, 05:46:35 PM »
Canon Digital Rebel XSI
(All processed in Photoshop)

Milky Way's Edge (Took this one last night) Single 5 Min. 30 Sec exposure  ISO1600
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Cousin Cooper and a diry face
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Da Moon
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M3
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Ring Nebula
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wow dood friggin awesome  :aok

Offline Jack16

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Re: Photography
« Reply #31 on: June 04, 2011, 10:26:46 PM »
Thanks guys :cool:

How did you get that moon shot? :O You must have had a lens as long as your arm!

-Penguin

Yep, my 10" telescope :D

Offline F22RaptorDude

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Re: Photography
« Reply #32 on: June 04, 2011, 10:31:51 PM »
Thanks guys :cool:

Yep, my 10" telescope :D
Would you mind if I used that moon shot as my computer wall paper?
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Offline Jack16

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Re: Photography
« Reply #33 on: June 04, 2011, 10:55:43 PM »
Would you mind if I used that moon shot as my computer wall paper?

Sure, go right ahead :cheers:

Offline F22RaptorDude

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Re: Photography
« Reply #34 on: June 04, 2011, 11:00:53 PM »
Sure, go right ahead :cheers:
Thanks mate  :cheers:
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Offline mensa180

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Re: Photography
« Reply #35 on: June 04, 2011, 11:52:52 PM »
Canon T2i here, I usually just set it on Av and leave it there unless conditions call for something truly unique.  Wish I had the cash for an L lens, but that ain't gonna happen.  Been thinking about building my barndoor so I can get superior night shots.
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Offline ghi

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Re: Photography
« Reply #36 on: June 05, 2011, 08:47:14 AM »
Canon Digital Rebel XSI
(All processed in Photoshop)

Nice pics!

Offline Penguin

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Re: Photography
« Reply #37 on: June 05, 2011, 12:31:44 PM »
I use a Canon D40 with a 35-135mm macro lens, it helps when I'm nice and close, but it gives me a great deal of grief when I'm trying to shoot further.  Do you guys have any ideas on how to deal with it?

-Penguin

Offline Vudu15

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Re: Photography
« Reply #38 on: June 05, 2011, 01:23:49 PM »
Cannon SX20IS which I use when backseat drivin as I usually have one hand to operate it with.
But the haze is the number one killer of my photos, here in Germany.



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Offline saggs

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Re: Photography
« Reply #39 on: June 05, 2011, 01:43:51 PM »
I use a Canon D40 with a 35-135mm macro lens, it helps when I'm nice and close, but it gives me a great deal of grief when I'm trying to shoot further.  Do you guys have any ideas on how to deal with it?

-Penguin

I don't understand your question, what exactly do you meant by "shoot further"?  

Are you saying you get poor image quality using the lens at 135?  

If that's the case my first guess would be that you are running into blur from camera shake.  As a lens magnifies the scene it sees, it also magnifies any camera shake, which causes motion blur of the image.   The old rule of thumb is that your shutter speed should never be lower then the reciprocal of your focal length when shooting handheld.  In your situation this means when your shooting at 135mm, you should have a shutter speed of at least 1/135s to avoid blur from camera shake (I bet your camera can't do 1/135s though, so go the next step higher, probably 1/160s, or 1/200s.).  If you're shooting moving objects, or panning with a moving object, you'll need an even faster shutter speed in order to "freeze" the action.  If you must shoot slower then the focal length, then you should be using a sturdy tripod and remote release.

If your shooting outside in the daytime, getting a fast enough shutter speed should not be a problem.  In that situation I usually shoot in aperture priority, and let the shutter speed float.  If it's a little darker and the SS starts to drop too low, I'll bump up the ISO a step.  I also almost always use a monopod with lenses 200mm and longer, it helps a lot in reducing camera shake.

The other possibility is that you just have a crappy lens.  Good lenses (especially good zooms) are very expensive, and the "kit" lenses that come with beginner SLRs, are usually the bottom of the barrel when it comes to optics, build, and quality control.  It's very possible that you just have a lens that only "works" at the wide end of it's zoom range.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2011, 01:56:28 PM by saggs »

Offline Penguin

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Re: Photography
« Reply #40 on: June 05, 2011, 02:45:08 PM »
By shoot further, I mean getting a nice, long telephoto shot across the auditorium.  It's not that it's blurry, it's that my exposure keeps jumping around- I can't get a proper exposure.

One other thing, how do I use the C1, C2, and C3 settings?  I've tried to, but it just jumps back to what I was using on M.

-Penguin

Offline saggs

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Re: Photography
« Reply #41 on: June 05, 2011, 02:54:21 PM »
By shoot further, I mean getting a nice, long telephoto shot across the auditorium.  It's not that it's blurry, it's that my exposure keeps jumping around- I can't get a proper exposure.

In an auditorium you probably have mostly dark foreground, then super bright stage lights and spotlights illuminating the subject, then a dark background, this difference is tricking your cameras meter.  Here's what you do.

Use the spot meter, meter off of something that matches your subject, like the back of your hand if your shooting people (obviously if you're in the dark this won't work, and you may have to sneak closer to the stage to take a meter reading off the actual subject, it depends a lot on how small your cameras spot meter circle is, the smaller the better ).  Then shoot in manual mode with that setting, ignoring what your meter tells you.  From there you can use your histogram/image review screen to tweak the exposure if needed.

EDIT: just thinking, if it's a play or something where they are using different stage lights for mood, then your kinda screwed using manual since the lighting is constantly changing.  In that situation the best you can do is shoot aperture priority (big aperture), with spot meter, and get as close as you can.



One other thing, how do I use the C1, C2, and C3 settings?  I've tried to, but it just jumps back to what I was using on M.

-Penguin

I'm guessing  "C" is for "custom" as in custom settings.  Sorry I have no idea how to set them up on your camera, (not a Canon guy) except to say read the manual.  On my bodies it is M1, M2 and M3 ( m for "memory") instead, and I set them by turning the dial to them, selecting the settings I want, and selecting "memory set" from the menu.  Honestly I don't use then very often though.  I used to use them to flip settings easily when swapping lenses at a wedding or event.  But now I just carry 2 bodies instead.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2011, 03:23:50 PM by saggs »

Offline SKColt

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Re: Photography
« Reply #42 on: June 05, 2011, 06:56:45 PM »
Here are some photos I shot while in flight aboard B-17G Liberty Belle. I was using an Olympus E-510, definitely not a top of the line rig.








Offline PFactorDave

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Re: Photography
« Reply #43 on: June 05, 2011, 07:11:45 PM »
In an auditorium you probably have mostly dark foreground, then super bright stage lights and spotlights illuminating the subject, then a dark background, this difference is tricking your cameras meter.  Here's what you do.

Use the spot meter, meter off of something that matches your subject, like the back of your hand if your shooting people (obviously if you're in the dark this won't work, and you may have to sneak closer to the stage to take a meter reading off the actual subject, it depends a lot on how small your cameras spot meter circle is, the smaller the better ).  Then shoot in manual mode with that setting, ignoring what your meter tells you.  From there you can use your histogram/image review screen to tweak the exposure if needed.

EDIT: just thinking, if it's a play or something where they are using different stage lights for mood, then your kinda screwed using manual since the lighting is constantly changing.  In that situation the best you can do is shoot aperture priority (big aperture), with spot meter, and get as close as you can.



I'm guessing  "C" is for "custom" as in custom settings.  Sorry I have no idea how to set them up on your camera, (not a Canon guy) except to say read the manual.  On my bodies it is M1, M2 and M3 ( m for "memory") instead, and I set them by turning the dial to them, selecting the settings I want, and selecting "memory set" from the menu.  Honestly I don't use then very often though.  I used to use them to flip settings easily when swapping lenses at a wedding or event.  But now I just carry 2 bodies instead.


What he said, plus...  When spot metering, set the meter point to the face of your subject if possible.  Ideally, you want the most correct exposure for your subjects face.  This is especially useful at a wedding for example where the bride is in white and the groom is wearing black.  Metering off of either persons clothing will often cause the exposure on the faces to be out of whack.

Also, shooting something on a stage, like a play or show or whatever, can be really challenging.  Every stage I have ever worked always has "hot" and "cold" spots.  The stage lights are never even across the entire stage or from front to back.  Sometimes, when dealing with particularly crappy stage lighting, I will set the camera to bracket the exposure by as much as a full stop over and under and take pictures in triples.

As for the custom pre-sets.  I am a Canon guy.  Have been for more then 20 years.  I have yet to use the custom pre-sets.  If you want to, simply consult your manual.  There is a section that explains how to set them up if you want to play with them.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2011, 07:15:05 PM by PFactorDave »

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Offline Penguin

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Re: Photography
« Reply #44 on: June 05, 2011, 08:51:39 PM »
I don't shoot weddings, I haven't had the chance (I'm only a kid).  The lighting completely covers the arena (I shoot robotics competions), but the drivers stations on either side are dark.  Getting the robots is not the problem.  The problem is that I need to immediately switch between a very bright subject (the arena) and a very dark subject (everywhere else is unlit) very quickly, and still freeze the action in both conditions.  I have around five seconds to switch settings, and anything longer than that will cost me some great shots.

How do I spot meter?  I'm a bit confused on that issue.

-Penguin