Well this utterly sucks (Nitro car problems)

[F22RaptorDude]

Well it came today, put in some batteries went over the manual, tightened all the screws and testing the radio. Went outside, filled up the gas tank, turned on the transmitter then the car, primed it and tried to start it, nothing happened the first 3 tries (5 seconds of pulling each time so as to not burn out the glow plug), changed some screws around. (First mistake) then tried again and got it to start for about 6 seconds then it died after I removed the glow starter. I toiled with it a bit more and flooded the engine so I had to drain it. I tested the glow plug and it worked so I put it back in and tried again, started for a few seconds but when I removed the glow plug after it being started up for a few seconds it died. So by now I was really frustrated  and put the car in the garage and waited for my dad to get home where we tried it again. As it turns out I overlooked some information in not only the manual but on the glow starter itself, I charged it for 30 mins when I got it, the side said 2-4 hours before use, and I overlooked spinning the master needle to the left 3 times (fail again) I got to anxious and inpatient and now i'm paying the price and even worse I was sure I looked at everything, I went over the manual 3 times. I figure the reason it won't start is because the glow plug isn't hot enough? so I'm charging it for a few hours then trying again. I drained the fuel tank back into my bottle, and from the exhaust I poured it onto my driveway (Is fuel coming out of the exhaust bad?) and i'm letting it sit for a while before I try again to break it in. and I know MAJOR



Anyway can I get any help or tips? I Think I might have messed with the idle screw to much and now I don't know where to put it at...

[PFactorDave]

Fuel coming out of the exhaust is bad, over primed most likely.  Don't confuse that with the oily stuff that comes out the exhaust when it is running, that is normal.

If you over primed, the excess fuel can cause the glow plug to not be hot enough.  

Did you fiddle with the idle screw on the carb? ((EDIT:see that you did.  Doh!)   If so...  Don't do that any more.  Read the manual and find the default idle screw setting and put it back.  Fiddling with the idle screw shouldn't prevent it from starting so much as make it die or refuse to run at idle speed.

Be sure to closely follow the starting and break instructions for needle valve settings.  You want to run a tank or two or three through it very very rich before running it lean and driving it.  

When starting, open the throttle about halfway to start.  If it doesn't start, close the throttle a little bit and try again, etc.  There should be instructions for throttle settings in the manual that came with the engine.   I like to prime by squirting just a few drops of fuel into the carb.

Keep in mind that I fly the airplanes, I expect that the process is the same (more or less) for the cars.  Also, hand starting a brand new nitro engine can be frustrating.  I always use a starter now days, much easier.

What brand is the engine?  Some are pickier then others.

[F22RaptorDude]

28CPX I don't know what that means but the car is made by Exceed http://www.nitrorcx.com/exrc1scnigas1.html I primed it until the fuel reached the carb then stood at an angle on the wheels put the starter in and pulled it. But almost immediately after I pulled it out the engine died. I'm going to try again in 30 mins to start it cause it would have charged for 3 hours. As for the idle screw the picture isn't clear on the position is should be in because its in black and white. I didn't move it far, and i'm going on a hunch I moved it close to where it was when it came.

One of the instructions was to turn the master screw 3 times counter clock wise, so I set it to default and did that, checking the air is hard because behind the foam is a tube that curves and I can't get it off because there's a zip tie on it ad the fuel line goes around it so I don't want to mess anything else up.

What do you mean by open the throttle half way?


As a side note I was very impressed with the car, parts were aluminum like advertised and everything was on nothing missing at all, and the parts were thick and look durable. I'm very impressed with the look. If I can't get it started tonight i'll take it to my hobby shop tomorrow and have them look at it, they don't stock any exceed parts but Its just the engine I need help with I don't need any parts.



Edit: And the liquid that came out of the tail pipe was orange like my fuel and quite a bit came out.

[kamori]

Change to a NEW glow plug 1st. That is the best and easiest place to start. After that take your Low speed(idle screw) and turn it in until you bottom it out GENTLY Now back it out 1 1/2 turns. Next do the same with your High-speed needle and back it out 2 - 2 1/2 turns. That will be a starting place.

Remember the more out the needle is the richer air fuel mixture will be.

Now try to start it, if it doesn't start in 3 - 5 pulls then STOP and remove your glow plug. Look at it and see if its wet or dry. if its wet go 1/4 turn in on your idle screw. If its Dry go out 1/4 turn Don't move your High-speed needle.

Repeat until it starts.

Next pull your glow starter dont let it idle too long. Slowly accelerate and see what it does if it dies immediately and you close to only 1 turn out on the low speed needle then your too lean go 1/4 turn out. If it stumbles then its running rich and go in 1/8 turn. Now start adjusting your Highspeed needle. The same applies. Accelerate and go to full speed NOW while running turn in your Needle(highspeed) until it starts to stumble Now back it out until you have MAX RPM. Once you have that go out another 1/8 to 1/4 turns. You don't want to run too lean it will destroy your motor.

NOW LETS TALK TRANSITION.

1st start it and rev it up to burn off any excess fuel left fro starting. Once thats done let it idle for 10 seconds...Now Go full throttle if its smooth with out a stumble then your done. If it stumbles turn idle screw in 1/16th. . Listen to the motor and trust what you hear...in time you can tell the difference between a rich sounding motor or a lean one...

Kam

[PFactorDave]

What do you mean by open the throttle half way?

Just like it sounds, on your radio control advance the throttle about halfway.  This will open the carb up a little allowing more air into the engine.

I wouldn't worry too much about the idle screw at this point if you think it is close to where it started.

If the engine starts, runs but dies when you take the glow plug battery off, then the engine is probably running too rich.  Is the engine idling when you unhook the glow plug?  If so, you might try turning the needle valve a halfturn or less clockwise to lean it a little.  Be careful doing this though, you don't want to run it too lean during break in.  Make small changes, test, then small changes.

[F22RaptorDude]

I was able to get it started thanks to you guys!!! Thank you so much! I ran it through 4 tanks at idle (for some odd reason it kept revving up randomly so I had to keep turning the idle needle counter clock wise to keep the wheels from spinning which they would randomly do through the tank, just rev up and spin for a few seconds than go back to idle?), filled the tank up before it ran dry and on the 5th tank took it around my back yard but it stopped the first few feet so I Adjusted the needles clockwise and took me 20 minutes to start again cause I kept flooding the chamber but I eventually got it running around my back yard at 1/4 throttle. Had to cut it short though because neighbors weren't happy about the noise at 10:30 at night, but Its done now so all I have to do is tune it right to bring out its full potential. and also show the fat kid down the street that his crappy walmart cars aren't as fast as he thinks  

[F22RaptorDude]

Update: Had some more problems so I went to my hobby store got some tips and a  temp gauge for the engine (It was the only reason I got the master needle right)and toiled with the needles for a few hours and at 9 when it was dark it finally sounded like it does in all the video's on you tube and I can gun it without it stalling and randomly rev it without it stalling either. AND LET ME TELL YOU THIS THING WILL BOOK IT!!!! I'm shooting video tomorrow and will hopeful have a music video up or something tomorrow evening or monday afternoon. This thing is a blast I'm so glad it worked out for me!

[MrRiplEy[H]]

Hmm Nitro car could be a Dodge or any car with NOS. Might want to use the magic letters R/C?

[F22RaptorDude]

Hmm Nitro car could be a Dodge or any car with NOS. Might want to use the magic letters R/C?

Sorry my bad I keep forgetting to put that 


In other news i'll have a demo video up on my channel in a bit today and will work on a form of music video within the next few days.

[icepac]

Nitro refers to the fuel.

The only dodges running nitro are top fuel, funny cars, or some other non-streetable car.

N20 is nitrous oxide.

NOS is a company who makes nitrous oxide injection kits.

[A8EJay]

Never really understood why they call rc fuel "nitro".  The fuel is between 10-30% nitromethane (for cars/trucks) 8-18% oil (usually klotz synthetic with maybe a mix of castor), and the rest is methanol.  Probably because it sounds cool....?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/   You could always do some reading there.  Alot of good info and helpful people.  Just don't mind the haters over there.  Theres alot of people on that forum whos opinion is that the only good rcs are the ones they own...

Edit again    There is even an Exceed nitro vehicle section in those forums.

[Killer91]

Never really understood why they call rc fuel "nitro".  The fuel is between 10-30% nitromethane (for cars/trucks) 8-18% oil (usually klotz synthetic with maybe a mix of castor), and the rest is methanol.  Probably because it sounds cool....?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/   You could always do some reading there.  Alot of good info and helpful people.  Just don't mind the haters over there.  Theres alot of people on that forum whos opinion is that the only good rcs are the ones they own...

Edit again    There is even an Exceed nitro vehicle section in those forums.

Maybe so they can charge more for it? lol

Nitro fuel is around $30 a gallon. Even worse for me is I have to either drive 60+ miles to get it or have it shipped to me. Small towns suck 

[F22RaptorDude]

Maybe so they can charge more for it? lol

Nitro fuel is around $30 a gallon. Even worse for me is I have to either drive 60+ miles to get it or have it shipped to me. Small towns suck 

Its a 45 min drive, and my fuel is running out fast because i'm having so many problems with the engine. It keeps drying up the fuel lines and I loose fuel priming and such. And I don't know if the engine sounds good or not

[68ZooM]

what do you mean by drying up, you mean fuel from the Tank in the line to the Carb? if so make sure you have a real good seal on that fliptop gas tank.

you can check it by disconnecting both tank lines ( carb and at the muffler) plug the Carb line and gently blow in the other line and see if pressure builds or it leaks off, the engine requires pressure from the Muffler into the Tank for proper fuel flow.

 I'm not a fan of the fliptop tanks because there know to have issues so check that gasket for damage or a foreign object, also check your fuel pickup. It's also good to use little zip ties to secure lines better to the connections. just keep trying man thats how we all got started.

[MoJoRiZn]

Hmm Nitro car could be a Dodge or any car with NOS. Might want to use the magic letters R/C?

Nitro refers to the fuel.

The only dodges running nitro are top fuel, funny cars, or some other non-streetable car.

N20 is nitrous oxide.

NOS is a company who makes nitrous oxide injection kits.

really?

2011 Dodge Nitro
http://www.dodge.com/en/2011/nitro/index.html


Mojo