Author Topic: P-40 "white #7"  (Read 13995 times)

Offline ink

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P-40 "white #7"
« on: August 23, 2011, 10:54:44 AM »
well I am getting very close to being done with this one...looking for some feedback.....I found a few different "versions" of this particular plane, some sources say the mouth inside was blue...not black, others say black..... :headscratch:

 I still have a bit left to do, but I am not sure about the color :headscratch: the prop spinner he would change the color to confuse the enemy into thinking there were more then one :rofl
as you can see there is zero weathering as of yet, that is the very last thing I do.

any and all comments/criticism is appreciated  :aok







and a action shot for fun :D


Offline IrishOne

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2011, 10:59:28 AM »
 :O    INK you are truly an artist  :aok
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Offline B-17

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2011, 11:54:11 AM »
That's bloody beautiful. :aok Amazed me once again. i catually thought the first one was a real picture... until I saw the background :lol

Online Devil 505

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2011, 11:54:29 AM »
Very nice Ink.
You might want to try making the white graphics less intense. The teeth and tail number really pop and look fake.
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Offline Stoney

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2011, 12:06:35 PM »
A couple of remarks:

1.  When taking the screen shots, adjust the sun or your maneuvers so that the sun is directly behind the camera.  This will light up the plane and expose the detail and true colors without shading interfering.

2.  Agreed on the white numbers, and on the sharks mouth in particular.  Need to make those all a bit more muted.  I also think the saturation of the OD and the gray underneath is too high.

3.  Even though its not lit directly, I can already tell the underside of the plane is too heavily shaded.  Back that off a bit, and add weathering/soot/grease to get the effect you're going for there...

4.  The AVG art looks really nice.

5.  Is the gray underneath the right color?  Looks somewhat blue to me.
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Offline Debrody

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2011, 12:09:21 PM »
 :aok
Hey, dont you wanna skin 109s?   :devil
Just kidding. Very nice skin.
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Offline cactuskooler

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2011, 12:44:11 PM »
It's looking good, but a few things though.

The first thing I noticed was the star on the underside is on the wrong wing. Apart from some unique circumstances, on USAAF planes the underside star is on the right wing, and the topside star is on the left wing.

I think your Olive Drab paint is a bit dark. Here's a photo - this is a stateside trainer and has probably seen a lot of sun, so I'd say it's probably lighter than what you're skinning. Maybe some middle ground between this and yours would be best.

Also notice how the exhaust staining is a light color. Again this is probably an extreme example of exhaust staining, but it's a clear example of how the stain flows and how the color would look in time. Most people skin all exhaust staining black. Most planes will have it black but not all.




Here's some photos of this plane that you've probably seen already. I agree the sharksmouth looks black, but I think the spinner looks to be painted Olive Drab. All the profiles I have show it as OD too.

Also a small detail is you can get rid of the triangular recessed area behind the exhaust stacks. This particular plane is a P-40K, and very few Ks had that - this one's no exception.







The trick to skinning nice looking pure black and white paint is to not use pure black or white. Use a very dark grey for black, and a very light gray for white. In photos above you can see the shadow cast by the props is darker than the black on the sharksmouth. They may have used black paint in real life, but it doesn't look like a black hole and neither should yours. :P

Don't forget to skin a silk scarf on Scott. :D
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Offline Krusty

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2011, 12:49:28 PM »
My main criticism is you have simply added colors to the bare metal shading shadows and details from your previous thread. Painted surfaces don't look the same as your bare metal surfaces would, and all of the shadows work does not apply.

You need to remove all the dark shadows for a painted surface, as there is no curved reflective surface causing them in the first place.

I also find your color choices very dark. While there is plenty of leeway in different shades of olive drab, I find your undersides, your red spinner, the artwork on the side... all "off". They seem too dark and overly saturated, but I'm not sure if that's the real problem (I am just attempting to describe what I am thinking).

Offline ink

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2011, 05:17:56 PM »
thank ya guys :salute

very much appreciate the feedback

My main criticism is you have simply added colors to the bare metal shading shadows and details from your previous thread. Painted surfaces don't look the same as your bare metal surfaces would, and all of the shadows work does not apply.

You need to remove all the dark shadows for a painted surface, as there is no curved reflective surface causing them in the first place.

I also find your color choices very dark. While there is plenty of leeway in different shades of olive drab, I find your undersides, your red spinner, the artwork on the side... all "off". They seem too dark and overly saturated, but I'm not sure if that's the real problem (I am just attempting to describe what I am thinking).

no I did not just add colors over the metal layer...I painted each part of the plane on the "paint" layer, and when I combined the paint layer with the metal layer, (this is where the heavy shadows come from...)I use "multiply" which brings out the layer underneath...which is also where the paint gets much darker, if I use "normal" and then adjust the opacity of the paint layer it seems very faded.....maybe that would work out better for this....  thanx for input

It's looking good, but a few things though.

The first thing I noticed was the star on the underside is on the wrong wing. Apart from some unique circumstances, on USAAF planes the underside star is on the right wing, and the topside star is on the left wing.

I think your Olive Drab paint is a bit dark. Here's a photo - this is a stateside trainer and has probably seen a lot of sun, so I'd say it's probably lighter than what you're skinning. Maybe some middle ground between this and yours would be best.

Also notice how the exhaust staining is a light color. Again this is probably an extreme example of exhaust staining, but it's a clear example of how the stain flows and how the color would look in time. Most people skin all exhaust staining black. Most planes will have it black but not all.

(Image removed from quote.)


Here's some photos of this plane that you've probably seen already. I agree the sharksmouth looks black, but I think the spinner looks to be painted Olive Drab. All the profiles I have show it as OD too.

Also a small detail is you can get rid of the triangular recessed area behind the exhaust stacks. This particular plane is a P-40K, and very few Ks had that - this one's no exception.

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

The trick to skinning nice looking pure black and white paint is to not use pure black or white. Use a very dark grey for black, and a very light gray for white. In photos above you can see the shadow cast by the props is darker than the black on the sharksmouth. They may have used black paint in real life, but it doesn't look like a black hole and neither should yours. :P

Don't forget to skin a silk scarf on Scott. :D

that's funny, I saw a model plane done in this paint scheme, the stars where on the same wing...but in the photo you show you can see the star on the underside of the opposite wing....I even have that photo but missed the star there.

COl Scott would paint his spinner different colors....I just choose red.

thanx for the tips :aok

:aok
Hey, dont you wanna skin 109s?   :devil
Just kidding. Very nice skin.

certainly gonna do some 109's  :rock
 and thank ya :salute

A couple of remarks:

1.  When taking the screen shots, adjust the sun or your maneuvers so that the sun is directly behind the camera.  This will light up the plane and expose the detail and true colors without shading interfering.

2.  Agreed on the white numbers, and on the sharks mouth in particular.  Need to make those all a bit more muted.  I also think the saturation of the OD and the gray underneath is too high.

3.  Even though its not lit directly, I can already tell the underside of the plane is too heavily shaded.  Back that off a bit, and add weathering/soot/grease to get the effect you're going for there...

4.  The AVG art looks really nice.

5.  Is the gray underneath the right color?  Looks somewhat blue to me.

cool beans, good idea on takin screenies..... :salute  thanx for tips

the underside is just the shadows and the Blue paint as of yet no dirt or anything yet, I guess its way to dark....... :o


Very nice Ink.
You might want to try making the white graphics less intense. The teeth and tail number really pop and look fake.

gonna do exactly that thanx :salute


That's bloody beautiful. :aok Amazed me once again. i catually thought the first one was a real picture... until I saw the background :lol

thank you very much   :salute

:O    INK you are truly an artist  :aok

last but far from least...thank ya my Muppet brother :salute

Offline AceHavok

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2011, 05:38:26 PM »
Great P-40 skin INK, looks amazing!  :aok  :salute
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Offline ink

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2011, 05:41:23 PM »
Thank ya Ace :salute

Offline lyric1

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2011, 05:46:05 PM »
Just can't beat living colour.





























« Last Edit: August 23, 2011, 06:00:47 PM by lyric1 »

Offline oboe

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2011, 05:51:04 PM »
I do like the underside, although the rivets still seem overdone to me- its very heavy looking but I think that is going to be ink's style.

Ink when you are making your screenshots, you gotta do something to make it a correct field of view.  The first pic is the only one that looks right, all the others stretch the plane and distort it.   Play around with the zoom key or something to get it to look right.  I actually don't know how I do it but I think it related to using the zoom key.

Agree with others on starkness of white and artwork.   And is it missing a tail code / serial number?  usually US planes had a portion of the serial number stenciled on both sides of tail.

Something I'm working on in painted skins is showing some rivets as light - to show where paint has flaked off rivet head.

Bravo on the skin though!

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2011, 07:08:29 PM »
Ink when you are making your screenshots, you gotta do something to make it a correct field of view.  The first pic is the only one that looks right, all the others stretch the plane and distort it.   Play around with the zoom key or something to get it to look right.  I actually don't know how I do it but I think it related to using the zoom key.
Its very simple actually. Just hit the "Z" key, then adjust the distance from the subject.
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Offline ink

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Re: P-40 "white #7"
« Reply #14 on: August 23, 2011, 08:25:23 PM »
I do like the underside, although the rivets still seem overdone to me- its very heavy looking but I think that is going to be ink's style.

Ink when you are making your screenshots, you gotta do something to make it a correct field of view.  The first pic is the only one that looks right, all the others stretch the plane and distort it.   Play around with the zoom key or something to get it to look right.  I actually don't know how I do it but I think it related to using the zoom key.

Agree with others on starkness of white and artwork.   And is it missing a tail code / serial number?  usually US planes had a portion of the serial number stenciled on both sides of tail.

Something I'm working on in painted skins is showing some rivets as light - to show where paint has flaked off rivet head.

Bravo on the skin though!

Scott did not have any codes or serial numbers on this plane, also it was not cammo.

Ill work on the SS try to get them better, I think its the angles im taking the SS at :headscratch:

I haven't done any weathering yet...making the rivet's peel paint is easy..... once I have the paint and nose art all down, I will go and do the weathering, I will place the "metal" layer under the "Paint" layer and erase the paint revealing the metal underneath...you could select a bunch of rivets and erase them also, thus revealing the under metal layer...

I will work on getting the rivets and panel lines not quite so prominent.

thanx  :salute


Just can't beat living colour.

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damn you got all the nice pics :salute