11.81@121mph

[Shuffler]

I did not know that. Kind of funny the ford folks chirping about the camaro made in canada.

[Golfer]

I did not know that. Kind of funny the ford folks chirping about the camaro made in canada.

Just the manuals. V6, GT, BOSS 302.

GT500s retained the 6060 on account of the power they make. The MT-82 isn't made for that much oomph.  That or the old man still had a say on his namesake.

[icepac]

The gtr is faster right now.

How much time does the mustang need to be learned.

I would probably start learning how to rebuild that chinese transmission.

"I would probably start learning how to rebuild that chinese transmission." was aimed at your chinese transmission and what you should start learning.

[CAP1]

sadly chinese in the middle of anything is not good.

 yea i know. there were a couple problems with them, one of which wasn't even the tranny, but rather what i think was a batch of bad quality bolts mounting the pressure plate to the flywheel. ford handled all of the tranny related problems back in the middle of last year.

 considering that golfer's running his car hard, i think if the 012's were blessed with this problem, his would be showing it by now.

[CAP1]

I did not know that. Kind of funny the ford folks chirping about the camaro made in canada.

 yea, but that entire car is built there. and it's from austrailia. 

[CAP1]

"I would probably start learning how to rebuild that chinese transmission." was aimed at your chinese transmission and what you should start learning.

 ooohhhh......so you just threw that out there, completely, and totally off topic. gotcha.

 read up on them. the problem was handled in 011.

[CAP1]

 it should also be noted, that this shelby's trapped at 129mph. that's a pretty dam good speed for a mid 11 second run. get that thing into good air, and we're probably looking in the low 11's.......REALLY good air, possibly even a 10.99.

[icepac]

No need to read up on them.    I've already had one apart after it kept popping out of 1st gear.

The trans. is nearly identical to the supra transmissions I used to work on except that for the differences in shift hardware.

We ordered new shift fork for 1st gear but realized it would only be a temporary fix so we found someone making brass tips for the forks much like we used to replace plastic shims with brass in all of our jatco and aisin transmissions for nissan and toyota.

Tranny is a good design but it was compromised by ford by trying to "smooth it up" and get rid of the balky shifting behavior.

It handles 1000hp in it's toyota form.

[CAP1]

WELL, HERE'S my take on the transmission thing. first off, look up the info on it. actually, here.....

The Office of Defects Investigations (ODI) analyzed complaint data provided by Ford as well as complaints submitted to ODI from consumers. In total, there were 364 unique reports indicating various shift quality issues while driving. Ford identified several factors that may contribute to shift quality concerns in the subject vehicles, including cold transmission, clutch stay-out at high engine speeds, gear clash or grinding, and gradual loosening of clutch plate bolts in some early production vehicles. The largest percentage of complaints indicated higher than expected shift efforts in cold ambient temperatures. These complaints were related to transmission fluid viscosity and the higher shift efforts resolved themselves with the drivetrain warming. Ford published technical service bulletin TSB 11-3-18 to inform technicians that a lower viscosity fluid was available for use to address the cold shift issues.

 from here.....http://www.mustangevolution.com/mustang-news/nhtsa-kills-ford-mustang-mt82-transmission-investigation/

 now, that all up there, when i bought my 83 5 liter new, i was warned not to go with the bwt5. was told it'd break at the slightest hint of power. yet, that tranny survived repeated 6k rpm launches every single weekend. i broke the 7.5 rear, and replaced it with a 9". still never had problems with the tranny. in fact that transmission is still in my basement, as when i took the car off the road, i put a 289 with an old top loader 4 speed in it for drag usage.

 i was given the same warnings when i bought my 89gt back in 92. that one has withstood repeated 6k rpm launches every weekend that iwas driving that car, plus the street racing it used to see.

 so from personal experience.......i think i'll take my chances, as chances of me experiencing these problems are slim and none....and slim's on his way outta town.

[Gustav]

I tried to keep out of this topic due to being a fairly new board member but, I have to agree with CAP. Also I find it interesting the GT-R was mentioned while bashing the MT-82 in the mustangs. It looks like the GT-R had some issues too with its transmission.

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/2010-nissan-gt-r-gets-its-launch-control-reprogrammed
(I also don't get how a transmission costs $20,000, you can almost buy half of a GT500 for that much money. )

[CAP1]

I tried to keep out of this topic due to being a fairly new board member but, I have to agree with CAP. Also I find it interesting the GT-R was mentioned while bashing the MT-82 in the mustangs. It looks like the GT-R had some issues too with its transmission.

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/2010-nissan-gt-r-gets-its-launch-control-reprogrammed
(I also don't get how a transmission costs $20,000, you can almost buy half of a GT500 for that much money. )

 new or not new, ya gotta start somewhere.

 welcome aboard.

[Golfer]

Regarding the MT-82. Mine is fine

Just swapped the trans and diff oil and frankly didn't notice the change that some mustang forum members declare as a kind of revelation. Mine was an 8/11 build with the latest revision of parts and seems to be behaving. Got a couple hundred passes on it now

[CAP1]

Regarding the MT-82. Mine is fine

Just swapped the trans and diff oil and frankly didn't notice the change that some mustang forum members declare as a kind of revelation. Mine was an 8/11 build with the latest revision of parts and seems to be behaving. Got a couple hundred passes on it now

 wanna hear something funny? i literally just came up to the office to post here, asking if yours seemed fine.

 also....where'd you get your driveshaft? is it frpp? if my helper shows up next week, the shelby mufflers, and boss302 airdam/splitter go on....next will be the driveshaft.

[Golfer]

American Muscle.  The first one I bought was Shaftmasters.  3.5" one piece aluminum and it seemed great.  During the winter, Shaftmasters bought them back because 2 broke on a dyno after being unloaded at somewhere around north of 140mph IIRC.  I figured they'll give a full refund and none of the Axle Exchange 4" shafts had broken (These are sold by American Muscle as their house brand but are manufactured by Axle Exchange)

It cost a little more than Shaftmasters, I already had a loop and I knew I wanted the shaft installed so I just took the money I got back and put it right back into another shaft.  I think it's worth noting Shaftmasters provided great service and has since revised their shaft to prevent that failure from occurring.  The timeline wasn't right for me and I needed the new one (when I bolted on drag radials earlier this year) to run as safely as possible.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again, FWIW.

I bought my wheels and drag radials from them too.  With a forum member discount you can't buy them off the truck for what they charge, shipped to your door and since you're not in PA, no sales tax.  MT ET Street Radials for $203/each.  Nitto NT05R (Pays contingency for drive wheels only, MT requires all 4.  Bastages.) were 185 each.

The wheels were ~100 during a sale event.  I bought based on looks/weight and just happened to get a good deal. You know, if you ever got out to the track you could see them in person.









And a video.  Maybe this will finally stir up some interest in getting your car on a track where it belongs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQsxsCj1wYY

[Golfer]

Don't mind the tongue depressors.  I was test fitting for how much shim I'd need to provide clearance for the loop.  It didn't need shimmed with the 3.5" shaft, the 4" shaft needed it.  I picked up some longer bolts, washers and used the same lock nuts.

I also put the bolts in from the top just because.  That wasn't how the instructions had it (this picture was IAW the instructions) but it not only made it easier, I can lose a nut (  ) and my bolt won't fall out.