Looking for Cap ,Ford Rager problems

[Shuffler]

When the caliper was replaced, the entire master cylinder drained.

The master cylinder needs bleeding.

He said he put about 300 miles on it after the caliper change and all was fine.


Flench always a good idea to change the calipers together.

[VonMessa]

Yup.

When the booster goes it can cause the pedal to go almost to the floor also. In which case folks will pump to get every bit out of the brakes.


... oh and you're most welcome Flench!

Unless you do not have a proportioning valve, like in my '64 Valiant.

Blew one of the hard lines (had a rusty bubble in it)  Pedal went to floor and stayed there 
Pumping just helped to evacuate the remaining fluid 

[Flench]

Well CRAP ! Got the new caliper on now and I have no brakes . All the way to the floor and well not pup up at all . So now both front calipers are new . Got a friend coming over to help me re-bleed it and see what happens , errrrr .. GO from there I guess .

[Flench]

Look's like your going to be right Shuffler . Got the HISS now . Brake booster time . Time to pull out the book . Never replaced a booster before that I can remember .

[Golfer]

Before you throw more parts at it, start from scratch and re bleed the system. It worked fine before you put that first caliper on and didn't after. While things happen I'm not sold on that being a coincidence from on my comfortable air conditioned living room.

My point is I'm not there and haven't seen it personally but that's where I'm inclined to look before dropping more money in parts.

[Shuffler]

Before you throw more parts at it, start from scratch and re bleed the system. It worked fine before you put that first caliper on and didn't after. While things happen I'm not sold on that being a coincidence from on my comfortable air conditioned living room.

My point is I'm not there and haven't seen it personally but that's where I'm inclined to look before dropping more money in parts.

Not being there is a good point always. Golfer the brakes worked for some time after he put the caliper on.


I asked about the hiss earlier because I wanted to make sure that the booster was not the problem. You will usually hear a hiss and the engine surge a bit when the diaphram breaks. The brake pedal will go way down also.

If there is no hiss or engine surge then it points to the master cylinder.

One has to check all points to make an intelligent decision...... and save money. Just throwing parts at a problem usually turns into an expensive affair.

[Golfer]

Yeah but "around 300 miles" can be half a days drive too.  He didn't mention how long in calendar time things took to seek spongy. Depending on the type of driving or a number of different factors the problem may (and only may) have not manifested immediately.  Air getting in from somewhere else. Loose bleeder screw. Leak in a line.

I'm not an expert but I think that's somewhat sensible. Checking that the pads are showing equal wear and giving the whole thing a once over won't hurt.

I'm sure we've all paid that tax by putting something on we didn't need at one time or another. A seized tension pulley on my AC system for my old truck caused the belt to break. I assumed it was the compressor so that's what I bought and installed only to find after the fact a $30 pulley was the fix rather than the $300 compressor. Oops.

BTDT, just trying to help

[Shuffler]

Yeah but "around 300 miles" can be half a days drive too.  He didn't mention how long in calendar time things took to seek spongy. Depending on the type of driving or a number of different factors the problem may (and only may) have not manifested immediately.  Air getting in from somewhere else. Loose bleeder screw. Leak in a line.

I'm not an expert but I think that's somewhat sensible. Checking that the pads are showing equal wear and giving the whole thing a once over won't hurt.

I'm sure we've all paid that tax by putting something on we didn't need at one time or another. A seized tension pulley on my AC system for my old truck caused the belt to break. I assumed it was the compressor so that's what I bought and installed only to find after the fact a $30 pulley was the fix rather than the $300 compressor. Oops.

BTDT, just trying to help

Exactly!

[Flench]

OK , Had a leak in the right front line . Fixed it but did not fix the problem . The motor runs fine no change when the pedal is pushed . Pedal goes to the floor now . Will not pump at all . I bleed all the lines and no air came out just fluid and it had pressure coming out . It has that hiss when you push the pedal down then stops . So what does that sound like now ?
Thanks for helping guys !
Oh , the wear on the front pads look even with just little wear but I just put them on a few month back myself . Piece of cake on a old ford .
EDIT: I'm just going back with all new stuff . Screw it .

[cattb]

Don't forget to get a new vacuum line. Rubber hose is cheap....Also if you replace the booster and mastercylinder watch the length of the rods for your adjustments. Its been a long time since I have done a booster. The last I did was on a 68 ford 4x4.

[homersipes]

hmmmmm just a thought..................ABS??????   when I bought my blazer put all new lines and brakes all the way around, when it came to bleeding fronts bled out, but the rear wheel cylinders just a dribble of fluid but it did bleed out, same deal no pedal.  So I disconnected the rear lines at abs module and conected that to the proportioning valve bypassing the abs.  whalla brakes bled right and had a good pedal, that was around 5 years ago.  and no abs light on either my bosses van was the same way everything bled rears just dribbled not a good stream, so he junked it 800 for the module, was 750 for the module in mine.  just a thought hope this isnt it

[Flench]

OK cattb , thanks for the tip .
Not sure about the ABS homer .
The truck 94 ranger 4X4. Got all new lines ran .

The Master cylinder , seems fine .

Now for the Booster

My shop

[cattb]

The auto parts store sells cans of battery cable protector to....I can see little of the junk that looks to be growing on your cables. ( looks that way from the picture, I could be wrong) I bought a can 15 years ago, don't have the name off hand and I am still using it. Only takes a little bout once a year. 

[SIK1]

It looks like the master cylinder has been leaking for awhile and it has probably taken the booster out as well.

[Flench]

The auto parts store sells cans of battery cable protector to....I can see little of the junk that looks to be growing on your cables. ( looks that way from the picture, I could be wrong) I bought a can 15 years ago, don't have the name off hand and I am still using it. Only takes a little bout once a year. 

I will ask about it . Never heard of it . I sprayed it with PB blaster and will put a new one on in the morning .
@ SIK1 , yeah I think you are right .