Any Shade Tree Mechanics Out There?

[cattb]

you can take some starter fluid and spray it by your vacuum lines, spray just a little and see if your rpms go up.( need air cleaner on and such) vacuum leak if the rpms go up. All good suggestions. I have a68 ford f100 out back I did same thing with. I rebuilt a 351 W and put it in it. Running gear is great rest of truck is rust. Think I got about 10 miles to the gallon the truck is low geared.
Sitting so long moisture in the gas tank.

[Randy1]

. . .  if i jab it it will stall.

There you go,  accelerator pump problem.  Check the linkage first.  Look inside the barrels and see if you get a squirt of fuel.

[Hajo]

I have a '67 F100 pickup with a 351W V8.  The pickup has been sitting unused, in the open for nearly 10 years.  The interior is a wreck and needs a complete re working.  The paint job is also pretty much gone, but the body, frame, and engine are all in decent condition.  So far I have replaced the carburetor, breather, fuel pump and filter, shocks (front and rear), front wheel bearings, and the engine oil and filter.  Now to my problem.

I have little to no experience adjusting carburetors.  I have swapped them out and rebuilt them before, but they have always ran smooth afterwards.  This engine runs great at idle, but will not accelerate once in gear.  It is a 3 speed automatic BTW.  It also wont shift gears on its own but we will get to that later.  The only way I know how to describe it is that it seems like it isnt getting fuel.  On flat ground, it will move fine at idle speed, but once i accelerate it sputters and will die unless i take my foot off the gas.  Any advice?

air to fuel mixture set on the carb?  To much of one and not enough of the other engine won't run properly. Sounds like when you step on the gas the engine starts to die.  Could be to much fuel when accelerating and not enough air.

I'm not familiar with that carb but there should be two screws one for air and one for fuel.  Check there.  When you spike the accelerator it should be immediate response to higher revs then lower revs.  To much carburetor?  Check.

Idle should be smooth in neutral.  You can work the throttle linkage while adjusting mixture by hand.  Should tell you something if that is the problem area.

Again a lot to check.  Remember also that a vehicle that sat that long ruins the gaskets.  They dry out.  You said you placed a new carb gasket that sits between the intake and the carb.  Check for leaks there.  Check vacuum lines also.

Rubber dries out in a hurry.  Sat for 10 years they are probably dry rotted.  As shuffler and Frenchy said be sure to check the vacuum lines.  eliminate the possibilities one by one.  Be patient and don't throw the tools.  May take awhile.

[SIK1]

Branch, if you have a vacuum gauge hook it up to a non ported source at the base of the carb. You can tell a lot of what is going on by the actions of the gauge. There is a pretty good illustration here: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/

Also check that the mechanical/vacuum advance in the distributor is working properly.

 
Sik

[branch37]

I did some tweaking with it yesterday evening and I think I've pretty much started getting it worked out. The fuel/air adjustment screws were screwed almost all the way out. That's how it came from the factory. I screwed them all the way in until it wouldnt run at all and started backing them out until it ran. I'm no longer stalling when i try to accelerate, but it is idling slow and stalls when stopped at stop signs and such. Further adjustments today. I also checked for gasket leaks and found none. Nobody could get the right gasket that goes between the carb and the manifold so i made one and it is working. I didn't find any vacuum leaks, but I have only checked the few lines on top of the engine.

That's where I'm at right now. Transmission still isnt cooperating. The main issue is low transmission fluid, but nobody has any records of what kind of fluid it takes. Thats what im working on today.

[morfiend]

It should use FoMoc transmission fluid!

  Low fluid will cause it to not shift,I would drop trans pan and change filter and check for metal,an old speaker magnet works great to pick up any metal that might be in the pan,if you find lots you may need a complete transmission service.


 

[branch37]

Is FoMoc the same as type F?


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[morfiend]

Is FoMoc the same as type F?


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  Yes I believe so,it's likely a C4 trans,though it could be an FMX....hope not.... I would use a fluid rated for Ford trans,dont use dextron!

  Grab a filter kit while you're at it,check pan for filings as I said,a small amount is usual,if the magnet is covered in fillings,well you may need to have it serviced,unless you're willing to tear it apart yourself..... not for the faint of heart!


  If you do tear into it,cleanliness is top priority!!!  The valve body has many channels and passages,the slightest bit of dirt can cause untold problems.


  Have fun.......



   

[Maverick]

Did you replace the inline fuel filter. Might just be unable to flow much fuel.

[branch37]

Doesn't have one. The only filter is the canister type on the fuel pump.


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[Hungry]

Does that carb have a float bowl level adjustment?

[branch37]

I believe it does. I'm going to fiddle with it some more this evening.


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[WEZEL]

  though it could be an FMX....hope not.... I would use a fluid rated for Ford trans,dont use dextron!

FMX now there is something I have not heard in years....rebuilt a bunch of them back in the day.

[WEZEL]

I believe it does. I'm going to fiddle with it some more this evening.


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can you post a pic of the carb?

[branch37]

Update.

Transmission fluid and filter changed. Now it shifts gears like it should only it shifts at a higher RPM than I would like.

I never did get it running right.  I adjusted the screws on the carb for over an hour with only slight improvement before giving up and deciding to test the shifting on the highway. I pulled onto the highway and put my foot down. It took off but only went up to about 4000 RPM. I let off the gas slightly to see if it would shift and it did, but wouldn't go any faster. On a whim I closed the choke. It took off like a scalded rat. I hit 75 mph in about 1/8 mile. I opened the choke and lost a ton of power. That says to me a vacuum leak. Anybody know how many vacuum lines are on this flavor motor?  There is a connection on the lower back of the carb near the mechanical choke that looks like a vacuum connection but there's no line. I'll post a picture later. And I'll get a picture of the carb tomorrow.


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