Now to each his\her own..........................
.....
But if you really want to stop all of that from going on w\ your USB HOTAS the only method that I find 100% effective on this is to install a good USB\PCI-E add-in card that uses 12v auxillary power from your PSU then attach your USB HOTAS controllers to this card in their own separate USB slot. So you will need at a minimum a 3-external port USB\PCI-E add-in card w\ either a 4-pin Molex or 15-pin SATA 12v power connector on it and 3-USB 2.0 extension cables (unless your set up will allow your USB HOTAS cables to reach the back of your computer w\o extensions). Most USB\PCI-E add-in cards do not have\use any sort of power saving control, the onboard USB controller has its own driver and is dedicated to controlling your HOTAS and Windows will not set the USB ports\add-in card up for any power control either as the drivers don't call for any of this so your USB HOTAS controllers will get full power all the time w\ unfettered access to the system across the PCI-E bus (depending on which PCI-E slot you install the add-in card into it will either be routed thru the chipset's PCI-E bus or direct to the CPU PCI-E bus (speed-wise it won't matter as both are treated the same).
The only caveat is this will cost you the use of 1 PCI-E slot on your mobo and 1 of your PSU's Molex or SATA 12v connectors.............
I just did this on my box and now after using my CH USB HOTAS w\ this setup I'm kicking myself in the butt for NOT doing this sooner.
Been there, done that now.........this method is hands down THE best way to hook up a USB HOTAS controller setup to a computer to get optimum reliability\performance from them......solves all the issues.
Now I'm using this w\ Win 7 HP SP1 but unless I'm not in the know this method should fix this issue w\ Win 10..............
Just putting this out there if interested.
