Can I get by with a new Vid Card or do I need to completely rebuild?

[Bizman]

Funny, I've never had an issue downloading the installation media using the code of an OEM sticker.

One hint, though: During the installing procedure you will be asked for the code. You can't type it wrong, there's some hidden formula that checks for errors. However, after having finished the installation you may find out that the code isn't valid for activating. If so, simply choose the "give another code" option and retype the code. That should do the trick. I've noticed this especially when doing a clean install using a brand dedicated code.

[Toad]

Save, that's another interesting idea. I see that a lot of folks got the 870 to 4GHz with a good cooler. That's another $50 option that might extend the life of the machine without a whole new mobo/cpu/ram purchase. I'd just need the new VidCard maybe.

Bizman, when I went to the Microsoft d/l site and put in my code it came right back with the message saying that it's an OEM code and I need a retail code. They referred me to my OEM for a restore disk.

Thanks for the tip on "give another code".

[Skuzzy]

<snip>
Bizman, when I went to the Microsoft d/l site and put in my code it came right back with the message saying that it's an OEM code and I need a retail code. They referred me to my OEM for a restore disk.

Thanks for the tip on "give another code".

Would not surprise me.  Microsoft has been doing everything they can to get everyone on Windows 10.  Some of the tricks remind me of tactics a used car salesman might use.

[flyndung]

Again, thanks to all. I value your input.

Right now, project #1 is to get Win 7/64bit on my computer. Not necessarily to see how it does with AH (although I will do that) but more to correct the original 32bit mistake.

The Microsoft roadblock:. You can't download the ISO from them unless you have a RETAIL key. I have an OEM key on my Win7 case.

With some help I did manage to get the ISO from Microsoft though. Apparently there are ways around the retail key requirement.  So I d/l'd the ISO last night and will burn it to DVD tonight. Then a bit of backing up and a full install. We will see where that takes it.

As for the Lenovo, I played on it as it is last night. The detail sliders were pretty much full left and it didn't drop in reasonably sized furballs over water with a bit of ship ack. I started gradually moving sliders right as I played. Now they are about 1/3 of the way to the right. It still held 60. More experimenting this weekend.

I'm going to keep moving the sliders right until it starts to bog down. After that I'll probably know if I'm going to try the 1050Ti.

As for my original computer, it looks like to really improve it there would need to be a nearly full upgrade. Mobo/CPU/RAM/VidCard. At this point I'm not willing to invest that much $$$ until I see if the game sucks me in like it used to do.

Last night I got a few kills, augured a few times and got shot out of the sky a few times. All in all a decent gaming experience.

Again, I thank all of you for the leadership and guidance!

you can download a OEM or Retail version of windows 7 64bits  from Torrents since you have the key to use already, if you need it in a pinch. your gonna have to back everything up and reinstall everything as i don't think there is a upgrade pathway from 32 to 64.

[TequilaChaser]

you can download a OEM or Retail version of windows 7 64bits  from Torrents since you have the key to use already, if you need it in a pinch. your gonna have to back everything up and reinstall everything as i don't think there is a upgrade pathway from 32 to 64.

Toad has already downloaded the Windows 7 SP 1 x64.ISO directly from Microsoft's Downloads center

He could if he wants to, install the 64 bit version directly over the 32 bit version, and the new install will save his existing files in a directory/folder named "windows.old" if my memory is correct(been a long time since I've last done it) However, I recommend to backup everything that you want/need including your AH settings, etc

Then do a complete reformat/fresh install

Hope this helps

TC

[flyndung]

Funny, I've never had an issue downloading the installation media using the code of an OEM sticker.

One hint, though: During the installing procedure you will be asked for the code. You can't type it wrong, there's some hidden formula that checks for errors. However, after having finished the installation you may find out that the code isn't valid for activating. If so, simply choose the "give another code" option and retype the code. That should do the trick. I've noticed this especially when doing a clean install using a brand dedicated code.

i've always just called the 1-800 mumber and validate my install

[Bizman]

i've always just called the 1-800 mumber and validate my install

I try to keep anonymous as long as possible 

Plus the online activation takes a lot less effort. Their automated phone system features a female voice with an annoying accent, not to mention the tediousness of typing the codes on a not-so-smart cell phone. The few times neither the online or automatic activating hasn't worked, the girl (yes, she's always sounded at least as young as my daughters) has seemed to have less competence in computing than I have - which I've learned isn't that surprising at all when dealing with help desks of any ilk.

[TequilaChaser]

I try to keep anonymous as long as possible 

  

[flyndung]

Toad has already downloaded the Windows 7 SP 1 x64.ISO directly from Microsoft's Downloads center

He could if he wants to, install the 64 bit version directly over the 32 bit version, and the new install will save his existing files in a directory/folder named "windows.old" if my memory is correct(been a long time since I've last done it) However, I recommend to backup everything that you want/need including your AH settings, etc

Then do a complete reformat/fresh install

Hope this helps

TC

the problem i see is that OEM code will not work with that .iso

[Bizman]

dung, it only is a problem while downloading the ISO. The code will work just fine during the actual installation. Of course with the caveat I mentioned before about having to re-enter the very same code for activating.

[flyndung]

dung, it only is a problem while downloading the ISO. The code will work just fine during the actual installation. Of course with the caveat I mentioned before about having to re-enter the very same code for activating.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-windows_install/can-an-oem-licence-key-be-used-to-activate-a/495b4da1-c1b7-4d93-82a9-8c8601bbaf32

you are correct!

[flyndung]

THE DISCUSSION (HINTING OR OTHERWISE) ON HOW TO ILLEGALLY OBTAIN OR USE SOFTWARE IS CAUSE FOR BANNING FROM THIS SITE AND THE GAME!

[TequilaChaser]

See above post.

« Last Edit: Today at 06:33:09 PM by Skuzzy »


sorry Skuzzy, I should have just not replied at all to that post

TC

[Toad]

Ok, I got the Win 7 / 64 bit installed and only ONE screwup on my part. I kinda rushed the "Where do you want to install windows" screen and did not see the delete for deleting the partitions. So.....it installed on the current partition and gave me the Windows.old Folder on the C drive. The drive is 500GB with 337GB still free so it's not even half full.

Two questions:

1) It shows 16GB RAM installed but only 8GB usable. Is that correct? Or did I miss something here? Is Windows itself using the other 8GB? Do I possibly have a bad stick of 8GB RAM?

2) Given that I screwed up the install, is it worth doing it over and deleting the partitions for a "clean install" this time? Or just defrag it and go about my business?

Thanks! I appreciate all the help everyone has given me.

[save]

Hi again,

Try link below.

https://superuser.com/questions/155615/windows-7-x64-how-can-i-test-my-memory