Author Topic: Please help confirm a problem (Read 497 times)

Charon · « **on:** January 15, 2003, 05:47:20 PM »

Car won't start again today. Had the same problem last Saturday. Turn the key, 1 click, led clock/radio/etc. goes out until switch released. No more clicks but same power drain when switch is turned. Buddy tried to jump it saturday, no luck. Tired again Sunday, it started and continued to start (several times) for the rest of the day. The battery is strong enough to have bright headlights.

I assume it is the starter, and not the battery or alternator. I think the battery is too strong for a battery or alternator problem, though a short in the battery that comes out under load could be the issue. How about the cables?

Thanks, if anybody has an opinion. Fricken rebuilt Mazda starters are $180

Charon

Thrawn · « **Reply #1 on:** January 15, 2003, 05:54:38 PM »

Yes, that is definately a problem.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:01:05 PM »

cables, starter, selinoid- thats where I'd start looking.

btw- I'm not a machanic just usually too broke to afford one. sort of a unwilling do it yourselfer. my usually method is to narrow it down to a reasonable area. then once I can't eleminate possabilitys by testing I just start replacing all the possable parts. starting with the cheapest one first.

oh ya, in all situations involving electrical. first thing to check is the electrical parts with smoke-stains, or those that look melted.

Charon · « **Reply #3 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:02:18 PM »

Thank you Thawn. I looked in the box, and unfortunately I used my last solution a few weeks back. I do have a full package of jury rigs I can open though

Cap'n, I was just going to go out and get a starter and drop it in since it's pretty easy to replace. But at $180 for a starter I don't want to go swapping parts until I get it to work. I might just have triple A tow it to a Goodyear and be sure they don't take me to the cleaners with anything too out there.

Charon

Charon · « **Reply #4 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:06:12 PM »

Quote

oh ya, in all situations involving electrical. first thing to check is the electrical parts with smoke-stains, or those that look melted.

Reminds me of a stereo I installed in high school once

"What the hell's with all the SMOKE!" Ground meet positive -- positive meet ground.

Charon

SaburoS · « **Reply #5 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:14:37 PM »

How many miles are on it?
Year and model of your Mazda?

Have your battery checked and charged.
Then have your electrical system checked.

Could be connections at the battery and/or starter if the battery is fully charged.
Could be your ignition switch and/or connections there.
If the Battery is low, it could be your charging system.
Unfortunetly it could be one of several things.

Some autoparts stores do the above for free.

CSK Auto

Airscrew · « **Reply #6 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:17:29 PM »

Charon, You didnt say how old your battery is.

I have had this issue before,...have the battery tested, could be a dead cell or two, works fine most of the time, then doesnt start all though usually a jump start will work. then starts fine for awhile then doesnt work again. The battery is shorting itself out.

Check the battery terminals for corosion and make sure they are tight. Clean them with a solution of baking soda and water, Hvy on the baking soda and a toothbrush. Then make sure the connections are tight, If you can move the terminals with your fingers they're loose.

Usually a bad starter will just click, and the engine will turn but not start, not a lose of power

I would check those things before dropping bucks on a starter

Mark Luper · « **Reply #7 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:21:27 PM »

It sounds most like a shorted battery to me. It is definately related to that. Clean the cable ends by making a fairly thick solution of baking powder and water and dipping the battery cable ends in it for a bit.

Rinse with water (very well) while using a wire brush to make sure there is no more white acid build up on the cables. Depending on the cable end type (one that wraps around the battery terminal or one that screws into one like GM uses) you may need to try to dissasemble the terminal.

Other causes for low battery may be checked also but make sure that at least you have a good contact between the battery terminals and the cables hooked to them.

If the above doesn't solve your problem then I would check, or have checked, the charging system. Some possible problems here would be a loose alternator belt or even possibly a bad voltage regulator. Most newer (post 1980's) alternators have the regulator built into the alternator so it would require repairing by a good authorised shop. A rebuilt one bought in a parts store may be the cheapest alternative in some cases.

Hope this helps.

NUKE · « **Reply #8 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:39:58 PM »

Sounds battery related to me ( shorted, dead cell, cables)

Having it tested is cheapest way to begin solving the problem

Charon · « **Reply #9 on:** January 15, 2003, 06:58:42 PM »

Thanks guys. I looked more closely and noticed that the neg can be moved with my fingers. Not too easily, but it will wiggle. Also notice some traces of acid on the case. I'll check the cells, clean and tighten everyting else up then get some of my money back from AAA and see if the guy can jump it and test the battery (I believe they can on site). Again, thanks for the help. A battery would be a lot nicer than anything else.

It's a fairly new battery, but it gets run all the way down from time to time since I telecommute and we often use my wife's car when we go out. Saturday it was a mess. Dead battery, flat tire from a leak. Really should get one of those new Mini Cooper S jobs

But since there are weeks where I don't even drive my car, it's kinda hard to justify the payment.

Charon

Sandman · « **Reply #10 on:** January 15, 2003, 08:51:23 PM »

When all else fails, I resort to harsh language and some sort of percussion technology.

Airscrew · « **Reply #11 on:** January 15, 2003, 11:46:34 PM »

LOL Sandman, I think we've read the same auto repair manual.

A swift kick may not fix it but you'll feel better,...just remember to wear steel toed boots.

Charon, Loose Negative cable is all it takes to not recharge your battery... I had a loose positive cable and didnt know it, car wouldn't start so I jumped it. Ran fine for a week no issues, Next monday it does it again,...while I'm waiting for a co-worker for a jump I check out the terminals, I could twist the positive cable with my fingers. Tightened it up and started the car, no jump, fine ever since.

Age of the battery is a non issue with battery problems. Had a brand new battery, 6 months after I bought it started to have problems starting the car,..got a jump, went to the garage to get it tested, dead cell, garage replaced the battery for free (under warrenty)
Check your battery, most have a 1 year to 2 year warrenty and will replace for free or prorated charge.

Like Oedipus said, "borrow" battery and see if that solves the problem.

Tommy · « **Reply #12 on:** January 16, 2003, 12:19:29 AM »

Simple check if you can get it started again remove a battery cable if car stays running buy new battery. Do not buy one from walmart they are cheapest battery made. Part with some money and get a good brand name that will last. Every walmart battery i ever bought lasted very short time.

Also why is it get drain down so much?

Before some one says you cant do what I said with the car running these do not have generators they have altenators. not excitor coilon end of them.

SaburoS · « **Reply #13 on:** January 16, 2003, 12:26:06 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Tommy
Simple check if you can get it started again remove a battery cable if car stays running buy new battery. Do not buy one from walmart they are cheapest battery made. Part with some money and get a good brand name that will last. Every walmart battery i ever bought lasted very short time.

Also why is it get drain down so much?

Before some one says you cant do what I said with the car running these do not have generators they have altenators. not excitor coilon end of them.

That worked for cars into the 70's.
Try that with some modern computer controlled cars can cause some damage. (diode pack, computer, etc.)
Some alternators need ~12.6 V from the battery to start the charging cycle. Some engines will shut off if you disconnect one of the battery terminals. Some computers actually regulate the voltage.

BTW, who makes the batteries for Walmart? It might be Exide since it seems that they supply about 70% of the retail outlets (Sear's Diehard is now made from Exide.)

swoopy · « **Reply #14 on:** January 16, 2003, 01:52:16 AM »

First of all check the battery(water levels and how much charge etc)

Check HT leads and plugs

It could be that the alternator isnt charging the battery properly, so if u do get it started check how much charge its providing.

Starters sometimes get stuck but it depends on the age, usually rocking car back and forth in gear helps but seen as u have tried bumpstarting it probably aint that.

I would say the alternator from what u have said, it aint charging right.

Let us know how u get on:)