Author Topic: A new god of aircraft model weathering  (Read 1176 times)

Offline Pongo

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2003, 08:08:37 PM »
ammo..dont do that ...made me feel like I was drunk..
aircav. Very nice work.
Im currently hacking apart an old Monogram Typhoon.

Offline aircav

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #16 on: April 09, 2003, 03:17:09 AM »
ammo,

the photo was taken with a Nikon digital camera. I have to say that I'm not a big fan of digital over SLR for normal photography, but for posting to the web it sure saves a lot of effort.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2003, 08:05:25 AM by aircav »

Offline frank3

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #17 on: April 09, 2003, 02:04:46 PM »
aircav, nice work man!

...I definitly need an airbrush.....:(

Offline gofaster

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #18 on: April 09, 2003, 03:23:15 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by DarkHawk
GOFAST

If you have an old inner tube that will hold air. you can use this in place of a compressor just attach the airbrush line to the valve stem of the inner tube.
works good when inflated to 30 pounds and is cheap until you can get a good compressor.

DarkHawk


That's a good idea.  Could use a bike tire and just keep refilling it with my foot pump.  Hmmm.

I have a digital camera that I just bought and am still figuring out how it works.  If I get a chance I'll post up some of my work.

Hey, aircav, how did you do the exhaust stacks on that Tiffy?  I usually paint with silver metallic and brush over it with a black or brown wash, but it looks like you used a different technique.

Offline AGJV44_Rot 1

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #19 on: April 09, 2003, 06:34:32 PM »
very nice

Offline aircav

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #20 on: April 12, 2003, 04:23:06 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by gofaster
I have a digital camera that I just bought and am still figuring out how it works.  If I get a chance I'll post up some of my work.

Hey, aircav, how did you do the exhaust stacks on that Tiffy?  I usually paint with silver metallic and brush over it with a black or brown wash, but it looks like you used a different technique.


Pretty similar technique actually. The base coat was Tamiya Metallic grey, with a brown wash over it. This came out rather bright and coppery, so I laid on some brown and black pastel chalks over it. The black was used on the forward part of each stack, to represent the soot accumulation from the stack in front.  The chalks seemed to dull it down nicely, and they were sealed with a clear flat coat. IIRC I may have done a very light silver dry brush as well. Close up:



Look forward to your piccies. :)

regards,
aircav

edit: Thanks frank3, AGJV44_Rot 1
« Last Edit: April 12, 2003, 04:25:53 PM by aircav »

Offline gofaster

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #21 on: April 13, 2003, 12:34:09 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by aircav
Pretty similar technique actually. The base coat was Tamiya Metallic grey, with a brown wash over it. This came out rather bright and coppery, so I laid on some brown and black pastel chalks over it. The black was used on the forward part of each stack, to represent the soot accumulation from the stack in front.  The chalks seemed to dull it down nicely, and they were sealed with a clear flat coat. IIRC I may have done a very light silver dry brush as well.

Look forward to your piccies. :)


I haven't used chalks yet, but I'm going to try my hand with it on one of the small 1/76 tanks I'm building.

One trick I've found for simulating metal, that seems to work better on smaller scales than larger ones, is to prime the piece in flat white, then give it a coat of black wash.  The black settles into the crevices and also dulls the white highpoints, giving it a good, steel metallic look but without the usual metallic sheen.  I used this trick on a 1/144 scale F-16 jet engine exhaust tailpipe.  I'll post a pic when daylight allows.  Meanwhile, here's a link to my Yahoo Photo album of a tank I finished recently.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/nascargofaster/lst2?.tok=bcB83YRBzxoIMD0W&.dir=/My+Photos&.src=ph

One thing I didn't realize until I started reviewing the pics was that I had some silver overpaint on the cable molded onto the back of the hull (more noticable in the one shot from the back of the tank in the sand).  I'll fix it in the morning.  Take a close look at the shots with the tank on its diorama base and you'll notice that the desert is actually 4 different colors: Dark Tan, Afrika Mustard, Bright Yellow, and SAC Bomber Green, then given a brown wash to bring out the tank tread pattern.  I sprayed the paint out of cans held about 2 feet over the base and just sort of let it fall onto the plastic.  It sort of gave it a good texture, too.

Offline Scootter

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A new god of aircraft model weathering
« Reply #22 on: April 13, 2003, 11:21:50 AM »
To simulate rust I use baking soda lightly dusted on a coating of super glue then when set, paint rust and drybrush a bit of metallic gun metal and then pastels.

Gives a nice rusted cast iron look to exhaust parts of all kinds.

Also I just did a P-47D-11 that I first painted aluminum sprayed several light coats of Future to seal and protect. Then I painted flat Olive Drab and then cleat for decals. After all set for a day or so I began lightly sanding and scratching through the paint to expose the natural aluminum underneath (like what really happens) this I think looks softer and more natural then adding silver on top. When done (don't over do) a coat of flat completes things.

Offline minus

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« Reply #23 on: April 13, 2003, 01:04:40 PM »
do no but i use mostly MATT Humbrols, and covering silver or aluminium  painting over with other colors never give nice result, instead i use  half dry alumiium paint with ver yfine brush , later vaxing all the model