Old Dog Learning New Tricks?

[AKWeav]

Any of you people out there that build model airplanes know that if you use flat paints, ya gotta gloss clear the crap outa the thing prior to applying decals or the decal film will frost when you lay on the dull coat. This is especially true regarding text or numerical decals with alot of clear decal film.

Having finished the Tamiya Fw 190 A4 with the above process (didn't come out too bad at that), I deceided screw this. The next one I'm doing with gloss paints, decal it, one light coat of clear gloss (to seal them), then the dull coat.

Well was out shopping with the wife and decieded to stop at the hobby store to pick up some gloss colors for the Bf 110 I'm currently dinking with. Course the wife didn't want to come in the store with me, so I hurried my purchase, and hustled back out to the car.

Now comes the good part: Time to lay on a coat of paint on a few parts prior to assembly. Grab the new jar of paint, shake it up real good, and pour some into a airbrush jar. Grab some thinner and pour some into the paint,... WTF is going on with this paint?! It's getting grainy and gloppy! Grab the new paint jar and look at the label....freaking water base paint. Way to go Weav. My past experiences (years ago) with the stuff have not been good. Runny, takes forever to dry, yatta yatta.

What the hell, might as well give it a shot. Clean the mess out of the airbrush jar, pour in some more of the stuff, and this time, a few drops of water to thin it with, and go to town on the engine nacells. Hmmm, it's laying down pretty good, nice gloss, not runny. Probably have to wait a week for it to dry though. WRONG! That stuff dries in about five minutes! A hair dryer speeds the drying process even more! Nice coverage, yet still lets the india inked panel lines/rivet holes show through lightly (just the desired effect!).

Cleaning the airbrush was a snap, dunk it in a bucket of water and pull the trigger, and a wet Q-tip for the dried stuff inside the nozzel.

I think I'm sold on the stuff.

[NUKE]

Originally posted by AKWeav
Any of you people out there that build model airplanes know that if you use flat paints, ya gotta gloss clear the crap outa the thing prior to applying decals or the decal film will frost when you lay on the dull coat. This is especially true regarding text or numerical decals with alot of clear decal film.

Having finished the Tamiya Fw 190 A4 with the above process (didn't come out too bad at that), I deceided screw this. The next one I'm doing with gloss paints, decal it, one light coat of clear gloss (to seal them), then the dull coat.

Well was out shopping with the wife and decieded to stop at the hobby store to pick up some gloss colors for the Bf 110 I'm currently dinking with. Course the wife didn't want to come in the store with me, so I hurried my purchase, and hustled back out to the car.

Now comes the good part: Time to lay on a coat of paint on a few parts prior to assembly. Grab the new jar of paint, shake it up real good, and pour some into a airbrush jar. Grab some thinner and pour some into the paint,... WTF is going on with this paint?! It's getting grainy and gloppy! Grab the new paint jar and look at the label....freaking water base paint. Way to go Weav. My past experiences (years ago) with the stuff have not been good. Runny, takes forever to dry, yatta yatta.

What the hell, might as well give it a shot. Clean the mess out of the airbrush jar, pour in some more of the stuff, and this time, a few drops of water to thin it with, and go to town on the engine nacells. Hmmm, it's laying down pretty good, nice gloss, not runny. Probably have to wait a week for it to dry though. WRONG! That stuff dries in about five minutes! A hair dryer speeds the drying process even more! Nice coverage, yet still lets the india inked panel lines/rivet holes show through lightly (just the desired effect!).

Cleaning the airbrush was a snap, dunk it in a bucket of water and pull the trigger, and a wet Q-tip for the dried stuff inside the nozzel.

I think I'm sold on the stuff.

I use mostly water based paint ( Acrylics) and the only problem is that they can sometimes dry too fast and clog your airbrush.

If you use acrylics, make sure you buy the correct thinner solution for that brand of paint. Even though they are water based and you could thin them with water, rubbing alcohol or even windex, the actual thinner is a blend of alcohol, water, detergents and and chemicals that make that specific paint adhere and mix.

Another cool thing about acrylics is that enamel thinner won't effect it, so you can use enamel based paints on top of the finish for doing weathering and washes.

I use mostly Tamiya paint now, with some model masters stuff.

I use Johnsons floor wax as my main gloss-coat. It's cheap and nothing is better.

[Pongo]

The Gunze brand of enamlel paints shoot pretty glossy right out of the bottle.
But modern acrilics are very nice to work with.

[MrCoffee]

For acrilic solvents, I always prefer to use "denatured alcohol".  Its different from regular "wood" alcohol (medical). Its cheaper to buy than the brand solvent such as Tamaya or Gunze acrilic solvent. You get alot more and works with most acrilics (same solvent). Acrilics are great, smell good too. They just arent very good for dry brushing sort of stuff like on tanks etc... I think the alcolhol atomizes more like thinner when you spray thin lines or use different pressures for effects. Dries faster too.

[AKWeav]

Thanks for the tips all. Gonna keep playing with the stuff.

[Scootter]

Try a bit of reducer for acrylics, you can get it at an art shop or someplace like RagShop. This slows the drying time a bit and prevents cloging in the airbrush. I use both oil and water base depending on what I'm doing and like both. I spray Future thined a bit with alcohol at high (30psi) pressure for a smaller drop size.

Join IPMS

http://www.ipmsusa.org/

Forums are great

[NUKE]

AKWeav, what happened to your model pics? I was trying to view them in other threads but the links don't work for me.

[Gadfly]

I like the acrylics, and the enamels.  I layer them, usually starting with gloss acrylics, then layering them in order.  Makes for great weathering.  Make sure that you clean the raw plastic very well and don't touch it with your dirty fingers before painting, though.

[AKIron]

Don't tease us like this Weav, where's the pictures?

[NUKE]

Seriously I wanted to see his pics after searching model pics on the BBS. I saw the great reviews for his work.

The pics links didnt work though, so I couldnt see them

I am working on ( actually about to begin) my 5th model since I was a youngster, a 1/24th FW190a for DiabloTx and was looking for some inspiration.

[AKIron]

And I seriously want to see the new work he's describing. He is an arteeest.

Show us the pictures!

[DiabloTX]

Originally posted by NUKE
Seriously I wanted to see his pics after searching model pics on the BBS. I saw the great reviews for his work.

The pics links didnt work though, so I couldnt see them

I am working on ( actually about to begin) my 5th model since I was a youngster, a 1/24th FW190a for DiabloTx and was looking for some inspiration.

Here's a few for ya Nuke.

[NUKE]

Wow! awesome FW! Where can I see more?

DiabloTX, dont worry though,  your's is gonna be awesome too

[AKIron]

Very nice Diablo, that your work?

[GRUNHERZ]

Dont use Q-tips to clean your airbrush as the little fibers will seperate and eventually clog the tip.