Bouncey Planes

[Gimp]

If you think it might be a joystick problem, sheeze, try using keyboard rudders.( I have my rudders programmed onto the ANT knob on my TQS) Picture if you will that you finally get advantage on the nme and you need to move that gunsight just a touch to the left for the perfect 6 shoot, touch the rudders one (1) uno click and boing boing boing, the gunsight is jumping around like me after eating Ma Renfro's(SP) salsa.

Even getting off the ground can be a pain. Just one touch to the rudder key is not enough, two clicks, WAY too much, so I correct and now Im draggin a wing, slamming into barracks, fuel dumps, innocent onlookers, perhaps pushing baby strollers. The guilt I feel when I log off sometimes gives me insomnia.

At least for my mental health, the rudder bounce needs to be looked at.

Gimp

[jedi]

Well, unless HT is using a completely "new" flight modeling system, the nose bounce IS a product of the flight model.  The way the old explanation went, IIRC, if the airplanes are made to be "stable," (i.e. more resistant to spin and snap roll) then they become "bouncy."  When they put in the more macho spin modeling in WB 2.0, the nose bounce was decreased significantly.

So, it may be that the problem will solve itself as the flight model is tuned to the next degree of difficulty.  Or it could be that this model is completely different from HT's earlier model and I'm completely out to lunch  

Either way, the only thing WE can do is tweak the joystick settings.  At one time I had the OLD WB (pre 2.0) nose bounce pretty well minimized (and I know I had it as bad as anyone before that).  The stuff to try:

--Clean your joystick pots
--Try another joystick port
--Try both digital and analog ports and sticks
--Use a third party calibrator, such as TM's ProPanel (www.thrustmaster.com).  It works on generic sticks and CH as well as TM gear.
--Trial and error adjusting of dampener and stick throw curves.
--Try "polling with interrupts" in Windows controller setup.
--Try "polling withOUT interrupts" in Windows controller setup.

The biggest thing to check, tho, is that your controllers work "normally" in Windows.  That's the baseline you MUST start from.  If you get ANY spiking, you're just asking for nose bounce.  Spiking in the Windows calibration is PROBABLY a joystick problem (i.e. worn or dirty pots).  Fix that first.  Then try calibrating with a good third-party utility.  Then reduce your stick response in the sim so that small stick movement produces small aircraft movement.  Then increase dampening so that it "feels" right to you.  Then gradually tweak the actual curves so you can get full control response at some point.  It goes without saying that you should be using the same airplane for all this testing.  You may find that you need completely different curves for the Spit IX and Corsair, for example.

None of the planes I've flown are quite as bouncy as the old WB or the new AH.  But you should be able to tweak a decent joystick/port combo to minimize the worst of the bounce.

Don't expect to get it right quickly tho.  It takes a combination of tweaking and practicing with it to "defeat" nose bounce.  Try flying with two fingers, and using the keyboard to fire guns instead of the stick trigger.

I know, I know, "stopgap measures" at best, but if they decide to leave the flight model unchanged in this area, it's about all you can do.

--jedi

[Lance]

For anyone that is having bouncing problems using a joystick with a turn-handle rudder system, I managed to lessen it quite a bit by tinkering with the joystick setup in game.  At least with my MS precision pro in the default setup I had significant rudder movement in the tiny distance I could turn the handle in the middle (rudder-neutral) position before the spring resistance kicked in.  This would cause my plane's nose to yo-yo all over the place whenever putting the slightest pressure on the joystick.  

What I did to correct this is to up the yaw damping to about 80%.  This keeps the rudders from moving unless I am actively turning the handle.  I don't think this is a complete solution, but it has helped considerably.

Lance

[MRIDGELL]

didnt read all the replys, so many but i read the first couple and thought id add my 2 cents. planes out of trim are infact very " bouncy " the soulution in real life and i use it here ,is : trim nose down and hold the planes nose up with your stick. if the planes is trimed nose up and is flying level it is very hard to control. and when im doing my preflight check one of the main things i check is the stall horn. i wouldn't ride in plane that didnt give me plenty of loud and unmistakable warning that i was about to depart from controled flight ( military term for stall ). and belive me "snap naps"  are much more a concern in real tactical military planes, then in this, or any sim ive seen. we are all blessed with near super human abilitys as far a G tolerance in sims. in real life you cant be sure of what your tolerance is going to be that day. some days 4 or 5 gs for a few seconds beats you to death and some times you can pull 7. Gs do beat you up. they wear you out,break blood vessels in your eyes,give you vericose veins in your wrists and ankles,  and stains in your shorts. the more tired you get the lower your tolerance.and waking up from a "snap nap" is akin to waking up in the drivers seat of your car going down the hiway. stall horns and blackouts are on diferant ends of the perfomance envelope. as your speed and alt approach the maximum the envelope can and does get very tight. i like the supended from rubber bands analogy - had a flight instructor tell me that flying a phantom at altitude was going to be like sitting on a bicycle that wasnt moving.