HaHa,
No flame here. I have real life flying experience including some time in a Aeronca Champ that was a really enjoyable stick and rudder tail dragger. I do not have any experience in high performance war birds. I personaly feel the flight model is really good in here, I prefer it to WarBirds. The planes do have a bit of a hung on a rubber band feel to me too, but I think it may take some tweaking on Pyro's part to reduce that, something they are going to be working on next.
As far as every little movement causing black out or stall I don't have that problem, I get black outs when pulling high G maneuvers in combat, generaly fly on the edge of a total black out, and also I end up flying on the edge of a stall with the stall horn blaring away at me the whole time.
It takes time but learning to fly smoothly is a major item here. We don't have the tacticle and "felt" gravity to give us clues to what we are doing so we need to learn to use visual and audio clues instead. The stall horn gives us an audible clue as to the ability of the wings to provide lift. BTW, there are high speed stalls too so don't depend on strictly speed to tell you if you are going to stall or not. The black outs give us the G loading clues, where (when they get it modeled) the limits of the plane and pilot reach their limits.
Reducing stall horn sensitivities, or as you stated, making them more maneuverable, in my humble opinion is not the solution. Though some of these planes may need tweaking in that regard, we also don't want an arcade type of plane set that only requires pointing the nose at a con to shoot at him. What makes this work as a ACM combat sim is the various strengths and weaknesses of the different types. For low level, in the dirt turn and burn type dogfights pick the right plane, the Spitfire or the LA5. For boom and zoom, slash and run type combat pick a P-51, F4U or FW190. Dont expect to take a B&Z plane into the realm of a T&B plane with good results.
Black outs start in the 4 to 5 G range and this has been discussed over and over on this bulletin board but I feel it to be a realistic start. The fact that you cannot feel the actual gravity involved makes it more difficult to know when the onset of the high G forces start to come in to play so we use the visual que's like the tunnel vision and G meter to indicate these to us. Since I don't spend my time looking at gauges while in combat I rely on the tunnel vision to give me the feedback I am looking for. Something to keep in mind too is if you are flying the Spitfire it is so maneuverable it can load up it's pilot and airframe with a lot of G's in a hurry!
On the matter of your joystick settings in the joystick setup: I use the graph at the bottom left to indicate how I want to set up my sliders. You will notice that when all the sliders are at the top, for each axis, you get a straight line from lower left to upper right. Belly this out. Start with about 25% up from the bottom on the first slider and make it look like a curve, somewhat flat on the bottom, going to the last slider. I use this on roll and pitch more so than on yaw. I start my yaw sliders from about 50% up from the bottom. Your graph needs to look like a loose fishing line on a pole more or less. Set this up and then make sure you fly it that way for about a day's worth of flying. After you have flown it that long and have gotten used to it, then adjust one thing at a time and fly for a while (several hours) before making another adjustment. You can use the damping adjustment to reduce the actual movement of the control surface relative to the input of the joystick. Set this to about 25% up from the bottom on all axis except yaw, set that one to about 10% up from the bottom. The reason I want my yaw axis more sensitive is to help me with ground handling and take off.
Hope this helps.
MarkAT
