Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: Cremator on July 24, 2014, 09:18:20 AM
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I just can't get it. Ive put some really good players in some real bad spots, ive ran down superior aircraft to with in 200. I can't hit the broad side of a barn. I usually fly the hellcat so fire power is usually in my favor. Ive done the gunnery course, shot the hell out of buddies in the TA.
Latrobe recommended first person shooter games for sight picture. In real life I'm the best shot in my neck of the woods. I qualified, back in the day, regularly shooting 490's, a few perfect scores. I triple regularly while bird hunting and have made shots that blow folks minds on running coyotes and can stomp a turtle from 30 yards with a single action .22.
Ive tried to figure out nose bounce, done this, done that. Am I missing something? Its bad enough folks quit trying to avoid my rounds and play me down. Help please!!!
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Cremator, for the nose bounce issue, try trimming nose heavy so you are carrying some constant back pressure. It can help eliminate some of the bounce. It's also a real world technique used in the non-electric jets. :salute
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what stick you using?
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In real life I'm the best shot in my neck of the woods. I qualified, back in the day, regularly shooting 490's, a few perfect scores. I triple regularly while bird hunting and have made shots that blow folks minds on running coyotes and can stomp a turtle from 30 yards with a single action .22.
Doesn't really translate. I am a good shot myself, used to brain-shot squirrels for the pot with my .22, can hit a coffee can with a handgun regularly at 100 yards. Does not transfer to game.
Ive tried to figure out nose bounce, done this, done that. Am I missing something? Its bad enough folks quit trying to avoid my rounds and play me down. Help please!!!
There's your problem-many of our problems, including mine, tbh. A major hurdle is that you are working control surfaces meant to be worked with a big control stick and very long throws with a plastic joystick with only inches of movement. This requires adjustment. Another potential problem is combat trim-I have come to the conclusion that it ultimately makes the airplane handle less predictably and am determined to wean myself off of using it in dogfights.
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Good point BNZ has about CT. Try disengaging CT and trimming slightly nose heavy.
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My latest revelation on gunnery has been stick scaling. I had been using the default scaling all along up until a month or two ago, when I noticed about the minimum amount of adjustment I could make while lining up a target was about 6 feet as soon as I'd start pulling. I put in a really shallow curve at the low end on my pitch and yaw scaling and it was like night and day. Instant ability to finely adjust aim. It's an adjustment, and I'm still not quite at the point where the years of muscle memory on how far to pull are retrained, but it made an enormous difference.
Particularly if you're doing most of your gunnery TnBing below 250mph, I'll also recommend trying without combat trim. If your speed is varying widely, it really changes the fine details of your inputs.
Wiley.
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I'm using a Logitech stick. I do fly with combat trim on. Ill try with it off. Puma suggested having my trim setting where I'm keeping back pressure and that sounds like a great plan. Ill fine tune my inputs some more.
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Post a film or two so we can SEE what your doing. Might help with narrowing down on the suggestions
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Gunnery is one of the hardest things to master in this game (if not THE hardest) and something that isn't taught very easily. There are several tips out there though that can help. Trim is one of those tips. I've never used trim though as I always have CT trim on. Something else you can try out is scaling your stick. For my rudder pedals I find they are just a bit too touchy for small inputs but I like the touchiness for larger inputs, so I have scaled my pedals so for small inputs (5%-15% input as 0-5% is where I have my deadzone) to have very little response at first but greater response as I apply more rudder. After about 15% input I have 0 scaling since I like the response of the rudder past this point. After scaling my pedals this way I noticed that my nose was not wiggling left and right as dramatic as before and I was landing shots a bit easier. You can do this for your stick as well. If your gunsight is jumping around too much while trying to line up a shot then maybe you should scale your stick so there isn't as much response when making small adjustments. This should help keep your nose steady when lining up shots.
Seeing how much lead is needed for those shots though is another matter. I could show you videos and screenshots of how much I lead my targets but it will eventually all come down to you just going out there are trying it yourself. You just have to have an eye for it or train your eyes to be able to see it. A long time ago when I was first practicing my gunnery I developed this little rule that seemed to work pretty good for me. This rule only works in turns and is easier to see the tighter the turn gets but this is how I learned my gunnery and maybe it'll be a good place to start.
Planes that are 100 yards (or whatever icons are ranged in) or closer you need very little or no lead on. At around 200 yards you'll need to start leading by about 1 plane length, 400 Yards is around 2 plane lengths, and 600 yards is about 3 plane lengths or slightly more. Anything past 400 yards though you really shouldn't be wasting the ammo on. Planes this far away you're only letting off a very short burst in hopes of scaring them and making them turn so you can get in closer. 600 yards is the limit at which you should be doing this though. Anything past that you are either amazingly good at gunnery or extremely lucky to land a hit.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Latrobe_2006/LEADlength_zps10f5054e.png) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Latrobe_2006/media/LEADlength_zps10f5054e.png.html)
You can also judge (more accurately as well) the distance to the target and how much lead you will need by the size of their plane. In my example here the icon says I'm 200 yards out but of course this is not accurate (I don't know the real scale behind the icon range. Where's Lusche!?) I can judge by the size of his plane that I am roughly 350-400 yards from him, possibly closer to 350. This is getting right into the range that I like to shoot at (300 yards) so I start pulling more lead than I need and I line my gunsight up with his flightpath. This way when I pull the trigger he will fly through the bullet stream.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Latrobe_2006/Leading1_zps8dec1eb8.png) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Latrobe_2006/media/Leading1_zps8dec1eb8.png.html)
Now a second later and I have started pulling the trigger to let him fly through the bullets. The canopy framing gets in the way so I used some editing magic to remove it :D This is how much lead is needed for this case. He is about 250-300 yards away. Based on the scale that I use that's a little more than 1 plane length, so I pulled the trigger slightly before 1 plane length and let him fly into the bullets. I pull slightly more lead than I need because a little wasted ammo for a sure shot is better than trying to save ammo sniping and missing. Also, killing your opponent as quick as possible is what you must do! The more time you leave him alive, the more time he has to kill you! If you keep trying to save ammo by sniping them and missing then either you're going to run out of ammo and have to RTB with no kills, or your opponent will get a shot on you and kill you. All that ammo won't mean anything if you die so don't be afraid to waste a little. You can always go back to base and get more :D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n101/Latrobe_2006/Leading2_zps3f4c999c.png) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Latrobe_2006/media/Leading2_zps3f4c999c.png.html)
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I just can't get it.
Why don't you post half a dozen films. You might be doing something consistently wrong which is easily fixed.
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One of my biggest faults pointed out by Dolby was and still is trying to take a low percentage lead shot instead of using the moment to invest in a better 6 position.
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Nice write up Latrobe. I appreciate it. Ill see if I cant figure out how to post some videos tonight and let yall pick em apart. Randy pointed out something that I know I do and I'm trying to avoid. Thats skidding my plane in order to make a deflecting or glancing shot. I was successful a couple times doing it so I think I picked up the habit, knowing killing energy wasn't smart.
Ill see about getting videos posted tonight when I get to my desk top.
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Nice write up Latrobe. I appreciate it. Ill see if I cant figure out how to post some videos tonight and let yall pick em apart. Randy pointed out something that I know I do and I'm trying to avoid. Thats skidding my plane in order to make a deflecting or glancing shot. I was successful a couple times doing it so I think I picked up the habit, knowing killing energy wasn't smart.
Ill see about getting videos posted tonight when I get to my desk top.
It can be done, but it really skews where your bullets are going relative to the pipper. Are you aware of the effects of pulling G's on your aimpoint? The harder you're pulling in any direction, the further away from the pipper your bullets are actually going. The ideal is unloaded shooting at all times, and I have evolved to set up to be able to do it more and more, but it's an extremely useful trick to have in the bag to know how much off the pipper the bullets will actually be when you're pulling on the stick/skidding.
Wiley.
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(I don't know the real scale behind the icon range. Where's Lusche!?)
D200 =100-299
D400 = 300-499
D600 = 500-699
D800 = 700-899
D1000 = 900-999
1.0K = 1000-1250
1.5K = 1250-1750
2K = 1750-2250
all ranges are given in yards
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If you want to get good at shooting, and want to do so quickly, then do this:
- Turn your scaling off on all axes.
- Turn your dampening to zero.
- Turn your deadzone down to zero (unless you have a loose joystick or a joystick that won't truly return to zero).
These simply serve as crutches 99% of the time and teach bad gunnery habits; with the exception of the deadzone, they all inherently promote sloppy control of the joystick. There are some players who have legitimate uses for them, but those cases are rare and far between.
The aim small, miss small idea of trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft does not work either. It works fine in non-combat and training situations, but the second you introduce stress, you'll find it becomes unreliable. In a higher-stress situation (such as the adrenaline rush from wanting to win a dogfight), fine motor control goes out the window. All that is left is coarse motor control. Want to see this in action? Run for 30 seconds and then hold a pen, as if you were trying to write with it, and attempt to keep it perfectly still for 10 seconds - you can't. This is loss of fine motor control and it happens when you undergo stress, regardless of whether it's for positive or negative reasons.
Take that same pen, grip it in your fist (like a hammer), and try to hold it still - you'll find this is much easier. This is coarse (or gross) motor control. You will fall back to your default level of coarse motor control in a stressful situation.
Not surprisingly, this is also what is taught in most real-life advanced weapon-manipulation training courses.
What you want to do is make your stick ultra-sensitive with a direct input ratio (i.e. no scaling). You'll find that it will feel very jumpy and almost unusable at first, but you'll also discover that, after a bit of practice, you can quickly adjust to rough guesstimates and be able to hold them rock-steady. Because of the direct scaling, there's no "learning" curve - it's intuitive. Half-stick, half-deflection; full-stick, full-deflection; and so on. Once you have this down, simply pull lead, then walk your shot in. Leave tracers on for this reason. This is the same method that was taught for using the F-16's cannon back in the 90's.
Do not do the unloading trick - that teaches bad habits that, while making it easier to get some shots, puts you in a less advantageous position should you miss your shot.
TL;DR - Summarized: Take out all of the post-processing of your joystick input - it simply serves to "confuse" your natural reflexes and makes it harder to learn what is somewhat intuitive. Focus on quickly pulling the "rough" amount of lead needed over the center mass of the aircraft, fire, and then walk your shot in. You'll find it immensely easier to learn to shoot.
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I hope you are joking.
If you want to get really good at shooting do this:
Get closer.
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I hope you are joking.
If you want to get really good at shooting do this:
Get closer.
I'm not.
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My latest revelation on gunnery has been stick scaling.
I have been working on gunnery as well. Many years in the game and I was still spraying and praying.
The Gunnery Course really helped me in a couple of ways that have been mentioned here - sight picture and unloading G's before committing to the shot.
Knowing your stick (each one is potentially unique) and stick scaling in the game software are critical.
I've been spending a great deal of time offline practicing (another takeaway from the GC). This helps build eye and hand memory and over time builds confidence when setting up a shot. If you muff a setup, don't press. Keep up your airspeed and set up the shot again.
Of course this might not work for everybody, but I have a lot more confidence in the game, my sticks, and in me.
:salute
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Good job ratsy, you are definitly moving in the right direction. Wiley is right on the mark, get your stick scaling fine tuned and unload whenever possible. Yes sometimes, you won't be able to unload and that will require different timing to be learned but the stick scaling is extremly important with either one.
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Latrobe just used several thousand words and pictures to explain the following:
1. - His main ring is 100Mil. His guns shoot on average to 1000ft(333yd) in 1\3 of a second. His con is traveling between 45-90 degrees of his line of travel between 250-300mph. Half of the 100Mil ring or it's radius 50Mil = the distance the con travels at 100mph in 1\3 of a second. He is leading by 300-350mph in radii with an additional radii as a buffer. About four 50Mil radii.
2. - His pursuit curve has placed his wings at roughly a 60 degree bank.
3. - Two possible scenario in his pursuit curve are taking place.
a. - He has unloaded and is essentially sitting there for 1\3 of a second hoping his con fly's into his bullets.
b. - He is pulling into his con at a 60 degree bank just nearing 2G giving him a 3 second window of firing along with a moment of aim adjustment. Past 2G your rounds fall behind your turning con.
Latrobe is a natural and has reached the point of robotic repeatability using these principles visa trial and error without knowing the specifics.
Hitech's physics is close enough to the real world that his gunnery is also. Which means the core principle of the 100 mph ring holds true in the game. Latorbe's picture shows the classic 60 degree pursuit curve angle in which you guide your con along the lower edge of your forward windscreens into your bullet stream.
A simple problem with aerial gunnery in the game is most don't see what I've just explained as they are maneuvering. The majority of their gunnery is shooting as a reaction to their sight picture. Rather than flying their plane to give them a sight picture based on the 100 mph ring principle. Basically they are never sure from moment to moment if their gunnery will work no matter how advantageous the sight picture looks.
Morfeind knows how to teach the basics of this. Most don't bother to ask him.
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If you use the 100mph ring principle here you will see a lead of seven 50Mil radii at 200yds with a lot of elevation of the main gun. I suspect this is a 109 with a MK108. If it were a MG151/20, the shoot point would have been just as the con's nose comes out of the windscreen right hand upright.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/latrobe.jpg)
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I don't claim to be any sort of gunnery expert, but watching Vudu15 and Latrobes videos have helped me get out of those gunnery ruts I tend to have every now and again. What I do is pay attention to were the piper is relative to the plane they are shooting. Although I've also been hopelessly addicted to shooter games since I was 3 years old, so I probably didn't have to adjust nearly as much as others did.
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Gentlemen, I think we should keep in mind that people who complain about missing shots are often not so much failing to calculate lead properly but are in fact failing to hold the darn pipper steady enough for their lead calculations to do them any good.
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100mph principle for the K4 shooting a 30mm round at InitV 500m\s.
Notice because the round is slower than 880m\sec, the 100mph radius has to be expanded to about 80Mil to account for the longer time to 1000ft. Still you can always calculate the 100mph principle for any gun knowing the InitV of the round and it's time of travel to 1000ft.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/Mk108SwSp.jpg)
100mph principle shown default for 50 cal\Hisso 20mm in light blue at a 50Mil radius, then the first red line for the MG151/20 at about a 65Mil radius and second for the MK108 30mm at an 80Mil radius.
WW2 fighter pilots had to pass ground school classes where they learned to comp this on the fly being shown flash cards or, get washed out.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/M2Hs404.jpg)
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For someone who is good using both the 30mm and 50cals. I recommend this, use a gunsight that is relevant to the plane you're flying (don't use a sight made for a 109-k4 (30mm) on an F6F or F4F (50 cal). Use one gunsight for a caliber, it's what I do. I use a specific gunsight for each plane I fly depending on what caliber of round that plane uses, one gunsight dedicated to 50 cal, 30mm etc.
To be honest, I never knew any of the information that Latrobe posted, and can't really understand what Bustr posts the whole mil thing throws me off. I memorized the trajectory based on many hours of training offline with the 'circlet of drones'. Getting my precision with 50 cals to the point where I can hit a spot on the bombers 600 yards away with tracers off. And accurately hit a fighter at 500 yards with the 30mm. You need to develop your own system of shooting while using the information given here as a guideline or stepping stool.
If you see me in-game just ask, wouldn't mind assisting you with your aiming in the TA. ~ In-game name is Tinkles I fly Bishops. :cheers:
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For someone who is good using both the 30mm and 50cals. I recommend this, use a gunsight that is relevant to the plane you're flying (don't use a sight made for a 109-k4 (30mm) on an F6F or F4F (50 cal). Use one gunsight for a caliber, it's what I do. I use a specific gunsight for each plane I fly depending on what caliber of round that plane uses, one gunsight dedicated to 50 cal, 30mm etc.
To be honest, I never knew any of the information that Latrobe posted, and can't really understand what Bustr posts the whole mil thing throws me off. I memorized the trajectory based on many hours of training offline with the 'circlet of drones'. Getting my precision with 50 cals to the point where I can hit a spot on the bombers 600 yards away with tracers off. And accurately hit a fighter at 500 yards with the 30mm. You need to develop your own system of shooting while using the information given here as a guideline or stepping stool.
If you see me in-game just ask, wouldn't mind assisting you with your aiming in the TA. ~ In-game name is Tinkles I fly Bishops. :cheers:
I'm the same way, US MK9 for all Browning 50cal and Hizooka armed birds. For germans planes I use the stock Revil gun sight, don't know it off hand. I
haven't really gotten acquitted with other kinds of guns(Russian, Japanese) but I do like learning the different trajectory's and ballistics different gun packages offer.
My way of aiming with 30mm armed planes is simple, once I've pulled what feels like enough lead, I violently jerk the stick back even further and let out a 2 to 3 round burst and more times than not ill get a hit. Probably not the best way, but its only way I've been able to get them to work so far.
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If you want to get good at shooting, and want to do so quickly, then do this:
- Turn your scaling off on all axes.
- Turn your dampening to zero.
- Turn your deadzone down to zero (unless you have a loose joystick or a joystick that won't truly return to zero).
These simply serve as crutches 99% of the time and teach bad gunnery habits; with the exception of the deadzone, they all inherently promote sloppy control of the joystick. There are some players who have legitimate uses for them, but those cases are rare and far between.
The aim small, miss small idea of trying to hit specific areas of an aircraft does not work either. It works fine in non-combat and training situations, but the second you introduce stress, you'll find it becomes unreliable. In a higher-stress situation (such as the adrenaline rush from wanting to win a dogfight), fine motor control goes out the window. All that is left is coarse motor control. Want to see this in action? Run for 30 seconds and then hold a pen, as if you were trying to write with it, and attempt to keep it perfectly still for 10 seconds - you can't. This is loss of fine motor control and it happens when you undergo stress, regardless of whether it's for positive or negative reasons.
Take that same pen, grip it in your fist (like a hammer), and try to hold it still - you'll find this is much easier. This is coarse (or gross) motor control. You will fall back to your default level of coarse motor control in a stressful situation.
Not surprisingly, this is also what is taught in most real-life advanced weapon-manipulation training courses.
What you want to do is make your stick ultra-sensitive with a direct input ratio (i.e. no scaling). You'll find that it will feel very jumpy and almost unusable at first, but you'll also discover that, after a bit of practice, you can quickly adjust to rough guesstimates and be able to hold them rock-steady. Because of the direct scaling, there's no "learning" curve - it's intuitive. Half-stick, half-deflection; full-stick, full-deflection; and so on. Once you have this down, simply pull lead, then walk your shot in. Leave tracers on for this reason. This is the same method that was taught for using the F-16's cannon back in the 90's.
Do not do the unloading trick - that teaches bad habits that, while making it easier to get some shots, puts you in a less advantageous position should you miss your shot.
TL;DR - Summarized: Take out all of the post-processing of your joystick input - it simply serves to "confuse" your natural reflexes and makes it harder to learn what is somewhat intuitive. Focus on quickly pulling the "rough" amount of lead needed over the center mass of the aircraft, fire, and then walk your shot in. You'll find it immensely easier to learn to shoot.
This is an interesting theory and would make sense if the player were under the effect of a true adrenaline dump...but are they? I'm not. A professional golfer relies on fine motor skills when under tremendous stress such as the final 9 holes while trying to win the British Open in a close contest. But I doubt they're suffering from the heart racing shakes of a true adrenaline dump. If they were they couldn't make a 12 foot uphill putt and another player would likely prevail. Stress doesn't necessarily equal an adrenaline dump and degradation of fine motor skills. I guess if the player can honestly say they are under the effects of a true adrenaline dump in most dogfights then relying on gross motor skills would make sense. But to abandon fine motor skills when they are still intact would not. Gross motor skills only produce better results when fine motor skills are not available. So I don't think this is a one size fits all solution. In firearms training it is fairly certain a combatant in a life or death self defense situation will be under the effects of a true adrenaline dump (same could probably be said for an F-16 pilot in actual combat). In video game combat maybe not.
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If you want to mitigate a loss of fine motor control then scaling pitch, as long as you are flying at your trim speed, is the way to do it, since scaling gives finer stick control near the axis center.
If you aren't at your trim speed scaling may cause your muscle memory to be at odds with your intentions.
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Skyyr also neglects to add that he uses a Force Feedback stick...
Take his advice to the regular sticks with a grain of salt.
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For someone who is good using both the 30mm and 50cals. I recommend this, use a gunsight that is relevant to the plane you're flying (don't use a sight made for a 109-k4 (30mm) on an F6F or F4F (50 cal). Use one gunsight for a caliber, it's what I do. I use a specific gunsight for each plane I fly depending on what caliber of round that plane uses, one gunsight dedicated to 50 cal, 30mm etc.
To be honest, I never knew any of the information that Latrobe posted, and can't really understand what Bustr posts the whole mil thing throws me off. I memorized the trajectory based on many hours of training offline with the 'circlet of drones'. Getting my precision with 50 cals to the point where I can hit a spot on the bombers 600 yards away with tracers off. And accurately hit a fighter at 500 yards with the 30mm. You need to develop your own system of shooting while using the information given here as a guideline or stepping stool.
If you see me in-game just ask, wouldn't mind assisting you with your aiming in the TA. ~ In-game name is Tinkles I fly Bishops. :cheers:
And ultimately why the K14 and it's family of gyroscopic precession based gunsights were created. Most pilots never really understood gunnery other than surviving trial and error. And just like yourself could not communicate the process other than "seat of their pants".
I'm describing the process you spent hours offline learning by trial and error when I describe the 100mph principle. Your Mil lead at 500yds is the relationship between the speed of the con and your bullet's speed of getting to 500yds. You are describing the con's speed and range when you pick your amount of lead and elevation in reference to your 100Mil main ring for your shot. Lead also varies depending on your con's angle of travel to your own, along with how much G force you are at in your turn the moment you shoot. More G, more bank, more lead, and diminishing returns. Yes trial and error for every shot.
The collimator gunsight reticle is a measuring aid just like the Mil Dot scope reticle used by snipers. They do it sitting still. We do it in flight with G loads and high speeds.
Revi16D 100Mil main ring.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/Revi16D.jpg)
N9 101Mil main ring.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/N9.jpg)
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And ultimately why the K14 and it's family of gyroscopic precession based gunsights were created. Most pilots never really understood gunnery other than surviving trial and error. And just like yourself could not communicate the process other than "seat of their pants".
I'm describing the process you spent hours offline learning by trial and error when I describe the 100mph principle. Your Mil lead at 500yds is the relationship between the speed of the con and your bullet's speed of getting to 500yds. You are describing the con's speed and range when you pick your amount of lead and elevation in reference to your 100Mil main ring for your shot. Lead also varies depending on your con's angle of travel to your own, along with how much G force you are at in your turn the moment you shoot. More G, more bank, more lead, and diminishing returns. Yes trial and error for every shot.
The collimator gunsight reticle is a measuring aid just like the Mil Dot scope reticle used by snipers. They do it sitting still. We do it in flight with G loads and high speeds.
Revi16D 100Mil main ring.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/Revi16D.jpg)
N9 101Mil main ring.
(http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee508/KDavis6030/N9.jpg)
Well, it isn't that I don't respect the work you do or anything. However, the gunsights that are that detailed I normally don't use. I use the revi gunsight for the k4, just because it 'fits' for ranged 30mm shooting. Even though the sights probably weren't made for it, I can line up a 600-800 yard shot with the 30mm (mainly on bombers) and hit. Sort of a spur of the moment McGyver jury-rigging.. deal. :lol
Plus, my eyesight isn't good, so I can't really tell the details of the sight unless I pull my face towards the screen, which doesn't do my eyes anymore favors nor my back. ... hmm, I sound old. :old:
I recommend trial and error really, while the sights do help, knowing how to 'feel for it' in my book is the best way to do it. But that comes with 'Aerial Combat Experience' from duking it out with other players in unfavorable odds most of the time, and without running. :devil In order to learn how to be a good pilot, you have to let your pride (and score) go and take the beating, but learn from it.
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1. - The MK108 was aimed with the standard Revi 100Mil ring, cross, and 1\6 stadia mark divisions. The MK108 was not used for fighter to fighter air superiority roles. Still, the lead point is about the middle of the right side windscreen panel 100-333yds. And just before the con passed into the left side bar.
2. - Three 50Mil radii and a slight fudge for good measure is leading by the windscreen up rights for 50cal to 20mm in rides with the gunsight centered. Off center the right side follows that rule{+-}, you kentuky windage the left.
3. - Most deflection shooting will use the bottom of the side windscreen panel as your line guide to feed the con to your pipper and bullet stream if you are in a banked turn. I will bank on purpose to get a better dispersion pattern on the con. Pull the trigger as it passes into the upright -400 and closer. At a 45 to 90 degree of your line of travel the radii lead amount stays the same for 100-333yds. Can you visualize adding on to the edge of the 100Mil Revi or N9 ring two addition half rings?? Brings you just to the right hand side upright bar. The visualization is exactly what pilots were taught to do in WW2, and why many couldn't deflection shoot. Enter the K14 gyroscopic precession gunsight.
Using zoom makes the reticle usable as a Mil based guide. I ACM my con and only hit zoom at the shoot moment. The 100mph principle works even in IL2. I set my zoom to make the 100Mil ring about 2 inches on my 24" monitor. And at that zoom with the con 400 or closer, I get hit sprites on him. 100mph principle suddenly works rather than being forced to point and guess through a very tiny ring in the default FoV.
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In firearms training it is fairly certain a combatant in a life or death self defense situation will be under the effects of a true adrenaline dump (same could probably be said for an F-16 pilot in actual combat). In video game combat maybe not.
That's what everyone says... until they get into a tournament and they're in the final bracket. :P Add in any type of unexpected scenarios and you'll find the results become unpredictable.
It's not an "adrenaline rush" that you experience, but rather having to quickly react. Your body reacts quickly by producing adrenaline, even in a game. If you measured your heart rate during a dogfight vs cruising back to base, you'd find it was faster during the dogfight. Same thing with watching a movie with an action scene. It's not a huge issue in gaming, but it's enough that it creates another variable.
That said, you can't both react quickly and have fine motor control in a dynamic environment, not without (literally) tens of thousands of hours of gunnery practice. If you could, if the players here did, then scaling wouldn't be used by the majority of players. Consider that scaling limits control input, so it effectively decreases overall control availability in favor of increasing the range of the most commonly used inputs. Quite literally, scaling is a compensation for poor motor control. It allows the user more margin of error by reducing the distance traveled compared to stick input.
A professional golfer relies on fine motor skills when under tremendous stress such as the final 9 holes while trying to win the British Open in a close contest. But I doubt they're suffering from the heart racing shakes of a true adrenaline dump.
Not quite. Professional golfers rely on muscle memory. There is very little fine motor control going on; it's almost entirely all coarse motor control. Don't misunderstand, coarse motor control isn't easier than fine motor control, it's simply a different kind of motor control.
Read this: http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002364.htm
Swinging a club, regardless of how accurate it is swung, is coarse motor control.
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You can reduce the ends of the calibration bands in the jsm file by up to 10,000 on each end so that your joystick only deflects half of it's throw. So to my peddles, but about 5000 on each end. Then scaling has to be used to slow down the effect. Control then becomes very smooth for very little wrist input. Kind of like using the precision joysticks to remote handle high infections items. I have no nose bounce.
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Are you an awesome shot Bustr? Can we see some films?
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Bustr, the 100mph rule. Is it saying that at 300 or so yards for every 100mph the target is flying you lead by one radi? (as a starting point.) Or is it more complicated?
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You can reduce the ends of the calibration bands in the jsm file by up to 10,000 on each end so that your joystick only deflects half of it's throw. So to my peddles, but about 5000 on each end. Then scaling has to be used to slow down the effect. Control then becomes very smooth for very little wrist input. Kind of like using the precision joysticks to remote handle high infections items. I have no nose bounce.
Bustr, where is this jam file located? I too, want to have no nose bounce.
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Puma it sounds like you can get the same effect by gripping your stick at the bottom instead of the top. The advice seems to be to cut your current precision in half then use scaling to try to get some of it back.
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In the settings folder every control device has a {.jsm} file. No two sticks or devices will react the same, so you have to play with it like I had to. For pitch and yaw control tweeking, I use the Ju87-G2 for smooth control testing on full zoom because of the large heavy guns under the wings. You can see control problems from full zoom through the gunsight. I use the spit16 for aileron testing. My original use for this was that I found full axis deflection sometimes did not translate into a fully deflected surface especially with the P-51D. For me, this has evolved into a fine control adjustment mechanism over the years.
The x, y calibration lines.
X Axis
0,32767,65535
Y Axis
0,32767,65535
These lines define the ends and center of your throw. If you shorten the ends by 5000 to 10,000. You only need to move the joystick half it's throw to get full deflection. I've placed rubber tension bands over the yokes on my fighterstick that hold the springs for the center return on my x, y POTs.
I use relative scaling to slow down the initial input off center so I can have very fine center control. Here are my jsm axis lines.
X Axis
15547,32767,49987,0.017000,0.038000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.58,0.62,0.67,0.75,0.84,0.94,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00
Y Axis
15559,32767,49975,0.016000,0.034000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.42,0.44,0.47,0.52,0.58,0.67,0.78,0.88,1.00,1.00
I've done the same to my throttle so that on occasion when I'm at WEP and my hand causes a tiny back slide I don't turn off WEP. It gives me a pre buffer before first engaging the throttle. I found without it, some throttles, when you pulled all the way back, it was not all the way back and the same for full Mil power. Yes you can recalibrate in the game. I no longer have to calibrated in the game now that these are set.
Z Axis
8000,32767,57535,0.000000,0.000000,0.250000
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Bustr, the 100mph rule. Is it saying that at 300 or so yards for every 100mph the target is flying you lead by one radi? (as a starting point.) Or is it more complicated?
Not really. Since you can never be sure, add a radii and hold the trigger a tad longer until you get the hang of it. That's why for most rides shoot as their nose pops out from the windscreen upright bars. Or with slower guns 780-720m\sec, as they touch the outside edge of the bars. After away it becomes muscle memory. As the con's path of flight to yours is 30 degrees and lower, you begin holding lead with the 100Mil ring or just outside of it. 40-90 degrees is where the 100mph principle with radii holdoff applies the most. Lead shooting anything traveling 400 and faster becomes a crap shoot. Shooting under 30 degrees -400 becomes a better choice.
Initially it's confusing because in our game most gunnery is performed with a dot at the default FoV and no zoom. Everyone over years of shooting learns to point here or there and shoot. "Some" are better than others. The confusing part is letting go of your muscle memory to learn how to rely on the ring.
The biggest problem learning to judge lead offline using a 100mph ring(100Mil), the drones are flying 250mph and slower. So you need to use a 65mph ring(70Mil) to get the same radii multiples to account for the cons speed to prove the principle works. When I use a 70Mil ring with the LCG turned on, all of the ring radii lead mirror right out of the AAF text book -400 and closer. WW2 in the US when you learned fixed gunnery, it was in an AT6 with a 70Mil ring chasing kites towed between 225-250mph. Just like our drone circle.
What I'm doing comes out of the AAF Fixed Gunnery manual 1943.
It's included with other gunnery manuals in my Historic Pack.
http://www16.zippyshare.com/v/48694084/file.html
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Puma it sounds like you can get the same effect by gripping your stick at the bottom instead of the top. The advice seems to be to cut your current precision in half then use scaling to try to get some of it back.
That's not a viable option with a HOTAS setup. I've used numerous scaling options discussed in the forums and have yet to find one that solves the problem.
In the settings folder every control device has a {.jsm} file. No two sticks or devices will react the same, so you have to play with it like I had to. For pitch and yaw control tweeking, I use the Ju87-G2 for smooth control testing on full zoom because of the large heavy guns under the wings. You can see control problems from full zoom through the gunsight. I use the spit16 for aileron testing. My original use for this was that I found full axis deflection sometimes did not translate into a fully deflected surface especially with the P-51D. For me, this has evolved into a fine control adjustment mechanism over the years.
The x, y calibration lines.
X Axis
0,32767,65535
Y Axis
0,32767,65535
These lines define the ends and center of your throw. If you shorten the ends by 5000 to 10,000. You only need to move the joystick half it's throw to get full deflection. I've placed rubber tension bands over the yokes on my fighterstick that hold the springs for the center return on my x, y POTs.
I use relative scaling to slow down the initial input off center so I can have very fine center control. Here are my jsm axis lines.
X Axis
15547,32767,49987,0.017000,0.038000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.58,0.62,0.67,0.75,0.84,0.94,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00
Y Axis
15559,32767,49975,0.016000,0.034000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.42,0.44,0.47,0.52,0.58,0.67,0.78,0.88,1.00,1.00
I've done the same to my throttle so that on occasion when I'm at WEP and my hand causes a tiny back slide I don't turn off WEP. It gives me a pre buffer before first engaging the throttle. I found without it, some throttles, when you pulled all the way back, it was not all the way back and the same for full Mil power. Yes you can recalibrate in the game. I no longer have to calibrated in the game now that these are set.
Z Axis
8000,32767,57535,0.000000,0.000000,0.250000
Thanks. I'll give it a try.
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That's not a viable option with a HOTAS setup. I've used numerous scaling options discussed in the forums and have yet to find one that solves the problem.
No it's not a solution. I went the other way and added an extension to mine. I don't use scaling on the stick. I did notice that my joystick driver added deadband even when it was off in AH. Removing deadband from both made the stick more responsive.
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I just checked fighter hit% for the last full tour (173). As far as I can tell, of people posting on this thread Latrobe has the highest at 13.07, followed by Skyyr at 7.22 and Mir at 6.78.
Highest I found just poking around stats further was TonyJoey at 20.08. I submit he may be THE guy to ask about shooting issues.
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You can reduce the throws within game? Interesting. I have the throws somewhat reduced in all three axes on my stick using software that came with it (reduced in roll a lot) and for some reason it seems to help.
In the settings folder every control device has a {.jsm} file. No two sticks or devices will react the same, so you have to play with it like I had to. For pitch and yaw control tweeking, I use the Ju87-G2 for smooth control testing on full zoom because of the large heavy guns under the wings. You can see control problems from full zoom through the gunsight. I use the spit16 for aileron testing. My original use for this was that I found full axis deflection sometimes did not translate into a fully deflected surface especially with the P-51D. For me, this has evolved into a fine control adjustment mechanism over the years.
The x, y calibration lines.
X Axis
0,32767,65535
Y Axis
0,32767,65535
These lines define the ends and center of your throw. If you shorten the ends by 5000 to 10,000. You only need to move the joystick half it's throw to get full deflection. I've placed rubber tension bands over the yokes on my fighterstick that hold the springs for the center return on my x, y POTs.
I use relative scaling to slow down the initial input off center so I can have very fine center control. Here are my jsm axis lines.
X Axis
15547,32767,49987,0.017000,0.038000,0.250000
AXIS,ROLL,0,1
0.58,0.62,0.67,0.75,0.84,0.94,1.00,1.00,1.00,1.00
Y Axis
15559,32767,49975,0.016000,0.034000,0.250000
AXIS,PITCH,0,1
0.42,0.44,0.47,0.52,0.58,0.67,0.78,0.88,1.00,1.00
I've done the same to my throttle so that on occasion when I'm at WEP and my hand causes a tiny back slide I don't turn off WEP. It gives me a pre buffer before first engaging the throttle. I found without it, some throttles, when you pulled all the way back, it was not all the way back and the same for full Mil power. Yes you can recalibrate in the game. I no longer have to calibrated in the game now that these are set.
Z Axis
8000,32767,57535,0.000000,0.000000,0.250000
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How do you get to the place that let's you turn off scaling and adjust your dampening? :salute
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I just checked fighter hit% for the last full tour (173). As far as I can tell, of people posting on this thread Latrobe has the highest at 13.07, followed by Skyyr at 7.22 and Mir at 6.78.
Highest I found just poking around stats further was TonyJoey at 20.08. I submit he may be THE guy to ask about shooting issues.
When I take shots at 400yds and less, my accuracy is usually between 10-12%. The last 2-3 tours, I've been taking and making shots regularly at 600-800yds. That really jacks with the accuracy stats, though, as I have divergence any time I shoot past 500yds (i.e. there's no way to be 100% accurate, even if the aiming is 100% on at those ranges). This is why I feel accuracy is a poor stat to judge by, but I digress.
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How do you get to the place that let's you turn off scaling and adjust your dampening? :salute
Clipboard/options/controller setup/advanced
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Understood. But 7-8% is still fairly elite, especially if is not being deliberately "gamed", which would entail NOT taking low percentage shots, buff hunting, preferring certain gun packages over others, etc.
Many factors involved in hit%. For instance, if one flies a P-47 with the heavy ammo load, it is perfectly rational to squeeze the trigger nearly any time one has any chance at all of connecting. That is the advantage of carrying so many guns and so much ammo, the penalty being the weight of all that. By contrast, if one is flying the 109K4, logic dictates that one do practically the opposite, get close and squeeze the trigger only when one almost cannot miss. Using the two different gun packages logically has very different results on the hit% score. This is why I think hit% shouldn't really be a scored category, but that is another topic.
When I take shots at 400yds and less, my accuracy is usually between 10-12%. The last 2-3 tours, I've been taking and making shots regularly at 600-800yds. That really jacks with the accuracy stats, though, as I have divergence any time I shoot past 500yds (i.e. there's no way to be 100% accurate, even if the aiming is 100% on at those ranges). This is why I feel accuracy is a poor stat to judge by, but I digress.
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I fly the 190A5 primarily. Both this bird and the Dora get bouncy when I'm in a fight with the Forward tank full. I always change tanks and burn the Forward down to 50%, then shift to the drop tank. In the Butcher Bird this creates a much more stable firing platform. Can't say for other planes, but it works here.
Also, turn your tracers off. Most sticks end up watching their tracers and aim by spraying a fire hose. That isn't aiming, that is guessing after the fact. You end up trying to 'walk' your fire hose into the target. By turning tracers off you have to give a great deal of thought to lead, aim points, etc. At first your aim will drop dramatically, though you will suddenly figure it out and get much, much better.
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Clipboard/options/controller setup/advanced
ty sir :salute
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I fly the 190A5 primarily. Both this bird and the Dora get bouncy when I'm in a fight with the Forward tank full. I always change tanks and burn the Forward down to 50%, then shift to the drop tank. In the Butcher Bird this creates a much more stable firing platform.
This does not particularly make sense, as an aft center of gravity is what one would expect to lead to more pitch sensitivity.
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This does not particularly make sense, as an aft center of gravity is what one would expect to lead to more pitch sensitivity.
As the fuel tanks empty the center of lift will move along with the CG and maintain pitch stability.
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I agree with BnZs, as hit percentage can vary so much depending on the ride and the targets.
The biggest improvement that I made is to have my guns at 200 yds, so that I aim above the target for anything further out. Aiming below the target to hit it is not second nature to me.
It works especially well for nose mounted guns, but I keep convergence in every plane set to 200 yards, so even when I'm trying to pick off a distant plane with wing mounted guns, I'll aim above and to the left or right so that the bullet stream hits.
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I suppose I could go back to flying a poni or take up the D9 and run around picking and HOing and running away from everyone through furballs if that's all you need BnZ. Yes it would increase my hit% dramatically.
I just is not interested in measuring my cartoon game manhood that way like some are fixated on. Neither does that negate Hitech's physics or that he programed his physics for gunnery so that the 100mph principle works in the game as it did in WW2. Internet willing.
Ever wondered how Messiah lands so many kills regularly? He was one of my testers for 8 generations of ACM gunsights while I was developing them. He's used them so long that now, I think he doesn't even use a gunsight from the last time we talked about it. I think semp still uses a Gen1 or Gen3 but, he never takes his scoring off attack for his poni and pretty much only flys that these days.
I'm sorry BnZ that you don't like the messenger. Elitism won't trump the physics no matter how long you hold your fingers in your ears.
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Clipboard/options/controller setup/advanced
tried..it wouldn't let me adjust anything..said no axis selected..nothing highlighted so I couldn't click on it..I'll tryAgain later after I can take a pic so you know what I mean
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you have to click on the axis you want to adjust. Select the controller in the drop down box top right. In the window you'll have the axises x y and z for your stick. click on one and then click the "advance" button. This will swing out another page with the sliders and the blue boxes that show stick input as compared to game input.
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you have to click on the axis you want to adjust. Select the controller in the drop down box top right. In the window you'll have the axises x y and z for your stick. click on one and then click the "advance" button. This will swing out another page with the sliders and the blue boxes that show stick input as compared to game input.
thanks fugitive I'll try that tonight
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I suppose I could go back to flying a poni or take up the D9 and run around picking and HOing and running away from everyone through furballs if that's all you need BnZ. Yes it would increase my hit% dramatically.
Turning fights tend to increase my hit% (planform tracking shots) over the sort of snapshots you get slashing through at high speed, not decrease it. And are you suggesting the gentlemen whose hit% I looked up (including Latrobe and TonyJoey) ONLY pick and HO, and that explains their high hit%?
You seem to be the only one personally offended by this comparison of hit%...My hypothesis is simply that the gentlemen who hit their target the most in this game are likely the ones to ask for advice about hitting targets.
I'm sorry BnZ that you don't like the messenger. Elitism won't trump the physics no matter how long you hold your fingers in your ears.
I agree completely that Hitech has modeled the physics correctly, which makes ballistics a useful study. However, there is simply no time in combat for such calculations. It must be learned by instinct. In giving us the lead computing gunsight in the TA, Hitech has also probably rendered the formal study of ballistics less necessary for this game, since one can simply go into the TA with a friend and see the necessary lead in real time under real flying conditions.
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BnZ you win this ecclesiastical whizzing match. You asked everyone to ignore participants input based on Hit% after looking up their stats I will venture. The 100mph principle does not change regardless. But, this is a personality contest setup by yourself to engender your exclusive views and eliminate others you don't approve of. And yes I fly with Morfiend a lot in the TA.
You are still attempting to shoot the messenger. So if you need to be the big cheese on ACM and support topics in the forum. All Hail the Big Cheeze, may he melt well in the brilliance of his own imagination! Oh lord we is not worthy to bask in his brilliance!
There, feel better now that your are adulated for your obvious what ever it is that's supposed to be obvious......
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I did not "whizz" on you or anyone else. I simply looked up which advice-givers on this thread have the best track record of actually hitting their target for my own edification, and then shared that info. Your fierce reaction implies some sort of personal problem which I am not obligated to deal with.
For the record, I am a mediocre shot always looking for ways to improve that aspect of my game. I can say with confidence that perhaps the majority of my missed shots are *not* caused by an inability to calculate proper lead, but are related to other difficulties.
BnZ you win this ecclesiastical whizzing match. You asked everyone to ignore participants input based on Hit% after looking up their stats I will venture. The 100mph principle does not change regardless. But, this is a personality contest setup by yourself to engender your exclusive views and eliminate others you don't approve of. And yes I fly with Morfiend a lot in the TA.
You are still attempting to shoot the messenger. So if you need to be the big cheese on ACM and support topics in the forum. All Hail the Big Cheeze, may he melt well in the brilliance of his own imagination! Oh lord we is not worthy to bask in his brilliance!
There, feel better now that your are adulated for your obvious what ever it is that's supposed to be obvious......
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you have to click on the axis you want to adjust. Select the controller in the drop down box top right. In the window you'll have the axises x y and z for your stick. click on one and then click the "advance" button. This will swing out another page with the sliders and the blue boxes that show stick input as compared to game input.
(http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w653/scottyd66/20140730_225225_zpsx3ee5xsh.jpg) (http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/scottyd66/media/20140730_225225_zpsx3ee5xsh.jpg.html) found it..just don't know what to do with it lol afraid to screw it up..
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Uncheck "enable scaling" and put the deadband and damping sliders at the bottom. If you don't like the result you can easily put everything back.
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Uncheck "enable scaling" and put the deadband and damping sliders at the bottom. If you don't like the result you can easily put everything back.
thank you sir
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Got it..thanks buds..had to re input my analog axis accidentally deleted..but brought both bars down to bottom and unchecked combat trim..to tired to check how it feels flying :salute
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If auto pilot mode won't stay on add a little deadband until it does. Set your roll axis the same as the pitch axis. You may want to keep your rudder scaled with some deadband but 0 damping.
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If auto pilot mode won't stay on add a little deadband until it does. Set your roll axis the same as the pitch axis. You may want to keep your rudder scaled with some deadband but 0 damping.
thank you sir..You and fugi have been a great help
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Not that I'm BnZ, but I found a lot of inaccurate statements in your reply.
I suppose I could go back to flying a poni or take up the D9 and run around picking and HOing and running away from everyone through furballs if that's all you need BnZ. Yes it would increase my hit% dramatically.
Shooting during high speed passes is, overall, harder than shooting while flying at lower speeds (unless you only hunt bombers). You have much less of a timeframe to correct shots and the closure rates are typically much, much higher, allowing less time to set up a shot and aim accurately.
I just is not interested in measuring my cartoon game manhood that way like some are fixated on. Neither does that negate Hitech's physics or that he programed his physics for gunnery so that the 100mph principle works in the game as it did in WW2. Internet willing.
I don't think BnZ or anyone else challenged the physics of the game. On the contrary, the physics of the game are what make gunnery repeatable and predictable. That being said, you seem to approach it with a level of technicality that is somewhat unnecessary and inefficient.
Pilots in WWII used the training methods you outlined for numerous reasons, the primary being that they had few, if any, effective ways of improving their gunnery against dynamic targets without fighting them firsthand. Therefore, they dissected the mechanics of shooting and memorized them, and trained and trained and trained for the real thing until it happened. And even then, most of them were poor shots.
In this game, you don't have to use the 100mph principle - you can simply learn to guesstimate distance and lead correctly. There's no need for ad naseum discussions of physics when you can simply jump in a plane and practice first hand in the TA. Is there some value in the 100mph rule? Sure, but it's impractical in the majority of shooting scenarios.
"Aerial gunnery is 90 percent instinct and 10 percent aim."
— Captain Frederick C. Libby, RFC.
Ever wondered how Messiah lands so many kills regularly? He was one of my testers for 8 generations of ACM gunsights while I was developing them. He's used them so long that now, I think he doesn't even use a gunsight from the last time we talked about it. I think semp still uses a Gen1 or Gen3 but, he never takes his scoring off attack for his poni and pretty much only flys that these days.
What does Messiah or Semp have to do with anything? I don't think I've seen a backwards argument such as this in a long time. You're taking credit for other players' success (or lack of it) and then implying that it's primarily because of your gunsights. Not only is your statement highly presumptuous, it's logically flawed. Correlation does not imply causation. If your gunsights are so good, why don't you use your own statistics as a testament to their effectiveness?
And further, how is the ability to not to use gunsights relevant? If anything, it only proves that shooting is primarily instinct, not strict science., I don't my use gunsight for probably 20% of my kills (example: click (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VC_xhithN4w&t=62)). Does it have anything to do with the gunsights I use? Nope - it's simply understanding angles and trajectories. See the quote by Cpt. Frederick above.
I'm sorry BnZ that you don't like the messenger. Elitism won't trump the physics no matter how long you hold your fingers in your ears.
Yet again, no one questioned physics. In fact, I'm not even sure why you keep stating that - perhaps you wish that was true? The only thing here that I saw that remotely challenged in your posts was your method of teaching someone to shoot.
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thank you sir..You and fugi have been a great help
You're welcome.
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Edit: Ooops - wrong thread!
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If we are comparing hit % for level of expertise then I'd be curious as to whether Latrobe uses scaling.
But I don't know about the hit % metric as a measure of great shooting. It could just as easily be a measure of great flying instead. One excellent "always top 50 fighter score" pilot with a high hit % gave me several lessons last year. He said he was a terrible shot so he tried to outfly his opponent and only shot within 200 yards or so. He had a great hit % at the time (haven't looked recently). So his tip for better shooting was to only shoot close in, something that doesn't show in the metric.
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If we are comparing hit % for level of expertise then I'd be curious as to whether Latrobe uses scaling.
But I don't know about the hit % metric as a measure of great shooting. It could just as easily be a measure of great flying instead. One excellent "always top 50 fighter score" pilot with a high hit % gave me several lessons last year. He said he was a terrible shot so he tried to outfly his opponent and only shot within 200 yards or so. He had a great hit % at the time (haven't looked recently). So his tip for better shooting was to only shoot close in, something that doesn't show in the metric.
I occasionally do use scaling but only on my rudder pedals. No scaling on my stick. I say 'occasionally' because the game seems to have a bad habit of turning scaling off for some reason. So most the time I'm flying with no scaling on my pedals as well which is fine because I only scale the very small inputs and only a small amount. I might as well not be using scaling at all. :)
I also do as what that guy told you. I set my convergence to 300 yards and I only shoot when I'm in very close. The only reason I pull the trigger past 300 yards is because I want to land a few hits and try to scare them into turning so I can get closer. :D
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I occasionally do use scaling but only on my rudder pedals. No scaling on my stick. I say 'occasionally' because the game seems to have a bad habit of turning scaling off for some reason. So most the time I'm flying with no scaling on my pedals as well which is fine because I only scale the very small inputs and only a small amount. I might as well not be using scaling at all. :)
I also do as what that guy told you. I set my convergence to 300 yards and I only shoot when I'm in very close. The only reason I pull the trigger past 300 yards is because I want to land a few hits and try to scare them into turning so I can get closer. :D
the secret is out:)
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I think I screwed something up..my tank gun turret won't stay still and center itself..I put all the settings back and even clicked on default settings I calibrated the joystick and the axis.but the turret just slowly moves left or right on its own...any ideas?
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I think I screwed something up..my tank gun turret won't stay still and center itself..I put all the settings back and even clicked on default settings I calibrated the joystick and the axis.but the turret just slowly moves left or right on its own...any ideas?
If you have trim wheel s like on a CH stick you my have knocked those off center. If not then you need to add a bit of dead band to compensate for the stick not being able to "center" any more. A sure sign your stick is getting worn.
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If you have trim wheel s like on a CH stick you my have knocked those off center. If not then you need to add a bit of dead band to compensate for the stick not being able to "center" any more. A sure sign your stick is getting worn.
thanks fugi ..I did add more dead band still same problem I use the x52 pro ..I Still have my old thrust master I'll hook up and see if it still does the same thing :salute
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Whats the line in the blue boxes doing? The raw is what your stick is doing, the other is what the game sees from your stick. So if the raw is bouncing around you slide the dead band slider up until it stops bouncing in the other box.
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Whats the line in the blue boxes doing? The raw is what your stick is doing, the other is what the game sees from your stick. So if the raw is bouncing around you slide the dead band slider up until it stops bouncing in the other box.
I'll defiantly look when I stop tonight bud..only another 9 hours of driving tonight lol I just think it's related to the changes I made cause it was working fine before...but even after I put them back as they were before it still does it..but then again the game doesn't like me using the c and v key to adjust range on manned guns either..even after I re mapped it to c and v and tried moving guns range to another keys it still don't move the ranges so it just maybe operator error as well as computer...btw your check is in the mail for all your help :salute
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When I move the stick the raw moves and the scaled box pretty much follows it
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Fixed it:) adjusted the dead band till it got stiffer :salute now if I can just get my c and v to adjust my sights I'd be golden
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Fixed it:) adjusted the dead band till it got stiffer :salute now if I can just get my c and v to adjust my sights I'd be golden
You're not having success in mapping them to an input on the controls?
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You're not having success in mapping them to an input on the controls?
they're mapped to c and v when I check the keyboard mapping but not working..it depends on what I clicked on..in flight they're left and right breaks on something else can't remember now they're adjustments for manned guns but when I jump in them they don't work..I wonder if I have to turn my x52 knob from 1 which is aircraft to 2 or 3 hmm
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each button can only be connected to one action per mode.... mode 1 c + v left brake + right brake. Mode 2 can be set up to use the travel left and right I would think. You just have to switch to mode 2 when gunning.
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each button can only be connected to one action per mode.... mode 1 c + v left brake + right brake. Mode 2 can be set up to use the travel left and right I would think. You just have to switch to mode 2 when gunning.
I'll try different mode thanks fugi
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nope still doesn't work..when I jump in plane it say in mode 1 on text buffer jump in gv it says mode 2 in manned gun said mode 1I give up lol even tried manually switch to gv in manned gun didn't work..tried re mapping to
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Disable "Autoselect mode at start of flight" in options - controls - map controller
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Disable "Autoselect mode at start of flight" in options - controls - map controller
ahhh I'll try that thank you sir
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Update: I'm getting better at shooting. Compiling all information here and other topics concerning the same. I worked on all points and suggestions given. <S>
I also tried recording and that's a whole other story there.... I'm an idiot when it comes to stuff In depth like that.
Thanks yall.