Author Topic: Totaled a Truck.  (Read 1555 times)

Offline Ripsnort

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 27251
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #45 on: January 11, 2015, 10:13:36 PM »
There is more there. Chassis damage, and the rear end of the truck is pretty much scrap metal.

Wasn't carrying anything other than a spare tire in the bed. Karnak is right, it is a common misconception. She is still able to drive, we could even get her unstuck with her own power.
Trucks are the worst vehicles with or with 4WD on fouled roads without some sort of weight in the back end. )Okay, mustangs and camaros are worse, but not much worse)

Let that be a lesson learned for you in regard to future trucks you may own.

I'm assuming the 'frame' was beyond repair? Chassis implies that is was a unibody, which it was not.

Glad no one was hurt. As suggested, put some weight back there, less chance of losing the rear wheels in icey conditions.  :rock
« Last Edit: January 11, 2015, 10:15:23 PM by Ripsnort »

Offline BaldEagl

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 10791
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #46 on: January 12, 2015, 12:15:00 AM »
When driving in slick conditions it is my experience that 4WD offers the best stability. This followed by FWD and last RWD.  When driving a RWD truck it is best practice to put it in 4WD under slick driving conditions.  The benefits of having all four wheels driving include the pulling action of the front tires to limit the washout effect of spinning rear tires. 

This is incorrect.  In a standard RWD vehicle only one rear wheel drives while in a standard FWD vehicle only one front wheel drives.  Similarly, in a standard 4WD vehicle only two wheels drive, one in the front and one in the back.  This is done of course due to relative left/right rotation in a corner, where the outside wheel has to travel a longer distance relative to the inside wheel.  Regardless, 4WD doubles the traction available vs FWD or RWD.

Furthermore, it used to be that the wheel with the least resistance drove the vehicle.  That's why when getting stuck one wheel would spin (the one with no traction) while the other stayed still.  In many newer vehicles this has been reversed.

I've owned all three.  My Cherokee, which was built specifically for off-roading (Easter Jeep Safari, Dakota Territory Challenge, etc.) had air locking differentials (ARB Air Lockers) which I could independently engage in the front, rear or both to get true 4WD while again, doubling the traction available in a standard 4WD vehicle.  I chose ARB air lockers over mechanical lockers specifically because I live in winter snow and ice.  I wanted to be absolutely sure that in icy conditions I could totally disengage the left/right locks.  Using true 4WD in icy conditions (as opposed to AWD or standard 4WD) is likely the worst possible thing you could do.  Your ability to turn the vehicle on ice is reduced to nil. 

That said the best options in order are generally 4WD, FWD then RWD.  I say generally because weight distribution plays a role.  A front engine RWD vehicle is generally worse than a mid or rear engine RWD vehicle.  My current daily driver is a 1986 Pontiac Fiero V6 that I've driven in the winter for the past 28 years (40/60 F/R weight distribution).  It's really a delight on snow (as long as it's not too deep) and ice as the front wheels wash out before the back end ever thinks about letting loose.

Anyway, I grew up in northern MN near the Canadian border in an era where RWD (or for some more fortunate, 4WD) was the only option.  I got used to driving in the worst of conditions.  While I admit to being more aggressive in bad conditions than most, I feel I have the experience to drive within the limits of myself, my vehicle and the conditions so as not to put others in harms way.
I edit a lot of my posts.  Get used to it.

Offline NatCigg

  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3336
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #47 on: January 12, 2015, 09:59:08 AM »

Do not most vehicles have some form of a limited slip rear deferential?  I know my truck does not like to turn in 4wd.  I always assumed the front end was locked in 4wd.

Offline icepac

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 6807
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #48 on: January 12, 2015, 06:07:49 PM »
Many 4 wheel drive vehicles have an open center differential which means you still have one wheel drive.

Offline BaldEagl

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 10791
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #49 on: January 12, 2015, 10:01:33 PM »
Do not most vehicles have some form of a limited slip rear deferential?  I know my truck does not like to turn in 4wd.  I always assumed the front end was locked in 4wd.

In 2WD you have one rear wheel powering the vehicle.  When you engage 4WD you engage the front driveshaft and get one drive wheel at each end.  With locking differentials you lock the left and right together at either the front, rear or both.  It's always recommended to lock the rears together before locking the fronts together however there are rare instances off-road that it makes sense to do the opposite.

I believe the only production vehicle that comes with standard locking differentials is the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, however they use mechanical locks which are not ideal on ice.
I edit a lot of my posts.  Get used to it.

Offline icepac

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 6807
Re: Totaled a Truck.
« Reply #50 on: January 13, 2015, 06:42:00 PM »
Toyota has  been using lockable differentials as well as torsen and torque biasing differentials for years.

The Toyota FJ cruiser with the 6 speed has front, center, and rear torsen differentials though many toyota/lexus cars will use traction control and open diffs front and rear but many models offer manual locking differentials front, rear and center and have been for a long time.

Toyota owns "torsen".

All of the land cruisers and lexus LX and GX cars are very off road capable and should not be confused with cars that aren't.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2015, 06:43:51 PM by icepac »