Author Topic: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944  (Read 10927 times)

Offline Xasthur

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Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« on: June 26, 2008, 02:05:43 PM »
I will be working on this skin at the same time as my Ta 152 'Yellow 1' JG 301 skin.

This 190 A8 Sturmbock 'Rauhbautz VII' was flown by Leutnant Klaus Bretschneider who achieved 14 night-fighter kills and 17 'Sturm' kills, including one by ramming. Klaus was killed in action on 24 December in a dogfight with P-51s. He went down in 'Rauhbautz VII' somewhere near Kassel.





I will produce more photos and screenshots as I make progress on this tribute.
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Offline Jester

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2008, 04:38:10 PM »
Great Paint Scheme - always liked JG300.   :aok

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Offline Angrist

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2008, 04:55:05 PM »
Beauty!  Can't wait to see this :aok

Offline Serenity

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2008, 05:32:08 PM »
Great Paint Scheme - always liked JG300.   :aok



LOVE those top two paintings. My good 'ole 303rd BG bombers are in it :D

Offline weazely

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2008, 08:21:43 PM »
Gunna be a nice skin.
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Offline Xasthur

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2008, 11:00:48 PM »
Jester, they are magnificent. Thanks very much, mate, I really appreciate that.

I'll be sure to do it justice.
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Australia

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Offline Xasthur

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2008, 09:58:53 AM »
Progress on this skin is coming along slowly but surely. I'm on the final stretch now and I've done 90% of the tedious and boring stuff.

I am currently working on the 'Rauhbautz VII' marking on the port cockpit armour plate and I've hit a wall with it.

With my current photoshop skills I'm really struggling to reproduce this in a manner that doesn't end up looking like a pixelated and jagged mess. As this is one of more individual aspects of this aircraft, I want it to be perfect or as close to perfect as possible.

So, I ask for the help of the skilled with techniques for creating this piece of the skin. I've looked up a few tutes online and tried their smooth edge approach but I can't seem to get much to work given the narrowness of what I'm working with. All of the tutes deal with 400 pixel wide stuff, I'm working with 1 and 2 pixels at final size.

I've tried working at 4 times the size, smoothing, re-sizing down to no avail and I've run out of ideas on how to get this looking acceptable.

This is the image I am currently working from.



Any methods you guys have for creating quality looking nose art would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks lads,

-Arch
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Offline USRanger

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2008, 10:46:10 AM »
Working on Red 8 right now. :aok
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Offline Fencer51

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2008, 11:49:26 AM »
Arch,

The limitations are the pixels obviously there is only so much you can do.  Remember this is not a photo or painting, people are not going to be standing 3 feet away (in game) looking at the aircraft.

Cheers

Fencer
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Offline Lord ReDhAwK

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2008, 12:46:52 PM »
Salute Arch,

I have written this reply about 3 times now :)  I hope I dont sound condensending as that is not my intent.  I dont know your level of expertise with graphics in different enviornments (Raster graphics vs. Vectored graphics.)  It sounds like you are reaching the limits of rasterization at the actual needed size of your graphic. 

Raster:
The nature of a raster graphic (Photoshop) is the use of colored pixels working together to produce output, when viewed, that generates an overall impression.  When you get into the 1 or 2 pixel size at actual, you lose detail.  An example of this is when you magnify a Rastered graphic, it blurs and looks unsavory.  The more you resize a Raster (up or down) the detail starts to dwindle.

Vector:
The nature of a Vectored graphic (Illustrator, Freehand, ect.) is a series of mathematical lines that are given assignment to the graphic.  No matter how much you resize a Vector, the mathematical assignment of the lines do not change.  The graphic is just as clear (or crisp) no matter the final output size.

Now, the problem skinners run into is that no matter the source we use to create our skins, the final output MUST be rastered (8x indexed bitmap.)  There is no single technique that will allow you to have a perfectly crisp graphic (in your case, the noseart) at the end item size you require.  Some detail is going to be lost due to the final rastering of the skin.  I will optimize my nosearts as much as I can, but a lot of the time the noseart has to be balanced at the reduced size to give the "illusion" of being crisp.  Now this isnt necessarily the case with the particular graphic you are talking about. Being the graphic is handpainted line-art, at that particular size, I would do it like this...

Step 1.
Using a vectoring program, I would create the graphic at a larger than needed size, say 256x256.  Being the final output size is so small, I would only use the primary color (in this example..red) with no outline color.  Once the graphic is created, I would export that vectored graphic as a .tif format. 

Step 2.
Now that I have my .tif, I would open it in Photoshop.  Once opened in Photoshop, remove the white background that surrounds the lineart.  The easy way to do this is to use a Photoshop plug-in called "remove white."  You can find that at Simmerspaintshop.com. Once all white is removed, select all.  Copy, create new document with a transparent background, paste.  Save new document as a .png with alpha transparency.

Step 3.
Open your original skin .psd and find the "end size" you need the lineart to be.  I generally do this by using the square marquee, drawing the marquee on the skin in the position and size needed.  Select the background layer, then edit/copy.  Create new document.  This will give you the final dementions the lineart needs to be.  Press cancel as you dont need this new document, you only needed the size.

Step 4.
Using the transparent .png, resize it using the navigator box window.  This is done by pressing the "-" (minus) button on the left of that box window.  It will give you an immediate feedback on what that graphic will look like at that size you reduced to.  If it looks blocky, click filter/blur/gaussian blur.  Only base your adjustments for every 25% of minimization.  For example, 50% will look good.  However, 66.7% will look bad. Use small increments of adjustment in the blur menu.  If it still looks good, but still too large, do the same thing again.  Reduce, blur, ect.  Once at the size you feel is right, and crispness you feel is right...press the print screen button on your keyboard.

Step5.
Ceate new document.  Edit/Paste.  Using the square marquee again, select only the borders of the lineart (it will be at the reduced size you did by using the navigator window.  Edit/Crop.  You now will only have the lineart selected with a white background.  Use "remove white" again or Select all.  Using the Magic Wand tool, press and hold the Alt key.  Select the outside white borders of the lineart.  Once all selected, you will see that only the lineart itself has the "dancing ants" from the marquee.  Using the arrow keys on your keyboard, move the lineart up one pixel, then back down 1 pixel to the original place.  Edit/Copy.  Create new document.  Paste.

You should now have the new lineart at correct size and crispness.  Just copy that layer with the graphic on it and paste it into your skin.  Resize or do any fine tuning needed and you should be good.  Make sure that you are not indexing your final work for test by using the Photoshop plugin for indexing.  You should use a 3rd party utility like "Bright", also found at Simmerspaintshop.

This is just a generalization of how I do it bud.  Your mileage may vary  :D  Hope this helped point you in a direction you hadn't thought of.

ReDhAwK




 
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Offline Lord ReDhAwK

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2008, 12:48:35 PM »
Heh.  Or what Fencer said :)  Very to the point IMO.

(he replied while I was writing)

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Offline Xasthur

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2008, 03:04:22 AM »
Brilliant, thank you for the quick replies gents.

I'll let you know how I go with your highly informative method, Redhawk.  :salute
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Offline BoSoxFan

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2008, 04:21:15 AM »
This took me about 10 minutes to work up. I tested it on the 190A8 template and it should be about the right size. Its not perfect but its something you could work off of. If you want I have one sized up about twice as big.








Here's the full size one. I have a few pictures of it some show it in red some in yellow. I don't really know which one was right so I just did the yellow.






« Last Edit: September 30, 2008, 04:31:52 AM by BoSoxFan »

Offline Xasthur

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2008, 07:47:47 AM »
BoSoxfan, that is absolutely amazing... Thank you so much.

 :salute

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Offline BoSoxFan

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Re: Fw 190 A8/R8 'Red 1' 5.(Sturm)/JG 300 1944
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2008, 04:28:44 PM »
Here's a little better version.