Stick Scaling

[vafiii]

Can anyone help me with stick scaling? Been flying Zero's and Niki for months with stall limiter on and have done pretty well but looking to go to the next level. Tried turning off stall limiter and find nose dips, loss of control or violent spins at most inopportune times. Any help would be appreciated.

[oakranger]

It will take time to fly w/o stall limiter.  Start flying around in the TA learning how to contral pulling the stick to hard.   

[TW9]

you  would have been better off if you never started off flying with stall limiter to begin with . At least you would have already been past that hump.

[whiteman]

after a week you should have it figured out, as for stick scaling i went with Mtnman's setup and have all my sliders at the top all the way across. Not sure if it's a good idea but hell you can always reset it back to default. btw i use a X52 stick, sure someone will ask you what you use to further help.

[Soulyss]

Everyone has there own preferences and stick scaling.  Personally I use something very similar to what AKAK uses and he was kind enough to lend to the trainers site for download.  I find it to be a nice graduated scale, there is going to be a bit of a hump to get over whenever you turn off stall limiter regardless of what stick scaling you use, a lot of it comes down to comfort and preference so try a few different things and see what works best for you.


http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/

scroll down to the "Miscellaneous" section and cilck the link for trainers files.

[Babalonian]

Can anyone help me with stick scaling? Been flying Zero's and Niki for months with stall limiter on and have done pretty well but looking to go to the next level. Tried turning off stall limiter and find nose dips, loss of control or violent spins at most inopportune times. Any help would be appreciated.

As others said, the stall limiter is great at supressing a newcomer's frustrations at learning how to fly, but when it comes time to move on without the "training wheels" the painful process of learning to ride a bike all over again begins (and many here share opinion that if you have to go through a painful process once, avoid doing it twice, but still don't let this deter you).

Welcome to stall recovery 101 and advanced energy management.  To make your evening tonight go past the painful stages as quickly as possible, take the aircraft you will be most likely flying in the days to come and up them offline or in the TA for a bit (if you run into a problem in learning th recovering process the TA is a good place to find a quick answer too).  Get some compfy altitude somewhere and then intentionaly do maneuvers that you know will result in a stall, intentionaly stall yourself out for a while and work on recovering from them.  Eventualy it goes from a nightmarish experience to one resolved with a well-timed flick of your wrists (or rudder pedals).  You will stall while dogfighting from this point forward, you will stall a lot, but learning to recover (and just how far you can push the limit) from a stall quickly or to float in a stall to your advantage is now the soup dejur until you get compfy enough with it that a recovery becomes instinctive habit.  It will be easier if you experience stall recovering from some bad stalls without the added pressure of bullets flying at you.  Once you've had a taste of recovering then you can improve upon it and gradualy add on the other pressures of dogfighting.  Also use varying loadout/fuel weights while practicing too as they effect the stall speeds and behavior of your craft a lot.

[vafiii]

Thanks guys!

[Ack-Ack]

Just a quick note about my stick scaling, the main intent was to help with the nasty nose bounce that I noticed when I first started AH.  That the scale also helps out with turning was just an added, unintended bonus and it does work with any stick though with some of the newer ones some slight adjustments maybe needed.


ack-ack

[grizz441]

Just a quick note about my stick scaling, the main intent was to help with the nasty nose bounce that I noticed when I first started AH.  That the scale also helps out with turning was just an added, unintended bonus and it does work with any stick though with some of the newer ones some slight adjustments maybe needed.
ack-ack

Your scaling is entirely different than mine.  I don't see how your scale helps with the nasty nose bounce, as your first value for pitch is at around 50%, which means when you move your joystick within 0-10% of its deflection you are engaging 50% of your elevators.  That will throw your nose very quickly.  My elevator scale sees my first couple values very low in the 2-10% range so I can have nose precision when lining up tater shots.

[Ack-Ack]

Your scaling is entirely different than mine.  I don't see how your scale helps with the nasty nose bounce, as your first value for pitch is at around 50%, which means when you move your joystick within 0-10% of its deflection you are engaging 50% of your elevators.  That will throw your nose very quickly.  My elevator scale sees my first couple values very low in the 2-10% range so I can have nose precision when lining up tater shots.

Try it and see for yourself, virtually no nose bounce and excellent stick responce at low speeds which was something I didn't initially intend for.

ack-ack

[grizz441]

Try it and see for yourself, virtually no nose bounce and excellent stick responce at low speeds which was something I didn't initially intend for.

ack-ack

I've tried a similar setting, but moved my initial couple values very low for ultra fine sensitivity in aiming.  My tanking scales are even more fine, with the first 4-5 values barely creeping up from the bottom.

[Ack-Ack]

I've tried a similar setting, but moved my initial couple values very low for ultra fine sensitivity in aiming.  My tanking scales are even more fine, with the first 4-5 values barely creeping up from the bottom.

If you wouldn't mind, open up your stick .cfg file and post the string of numbers you have under "pitch" to this thread.  Interested in seeing them.

ack-ack

[Max]

Do what he says...he helped me a lot with mine a few years back. Speaking of which, could you give us cfg settings ack-ack?

Thanks!

[oakranger]

AKAK, What stick will this setting work best.  I have x53 pro and have a lot of bouncing.  Could you post a pic of the setting so i can better understand what you are talking about. 

[Ghastly]

Your scaling is entirely different than mine.  I don't see how your scale helps with the nasty nose bounce, as your first value for pitch is at around 50%, which means when you move your joystick within 0-10% of its deflection you are engaging 50% of your elevators.   That will throw your nose very quickly.  My elevator scale sees my first couple values very low in the 2-10% range so I can have nose precision when lining up tater shots.

Grizz, it doesn't work like that.  

At 100% across the board, you'd get a linear response throughout the entire range, such that by moving the stick 10%, you'd get 10% deflection of the rudder/aileron/elevator, at 20% you'd get 20%, etc.

Each "band" in the stick scaling applies a multiplier of X% to any stick movement in that band, such that with Ack-acks settings where the first pitch band is 45%, at the point where you've moved the stick 10%, you get 4.5% of the deflection (45% * 10%). And since the band of 40 to 50% of the stick deflection is set to a scaling of 62%, as you hit 50% you get 36% deflection with Ack-Acks settings. (Etc for the other bands) Note that the last band - 90 to 100 is set to 100%, so you get 100% at 100%.

What I don't like about scaling is that it's a trade off - you can scale for more precision around center, but (at least in every game I've every played that supported it, since none that I know of ever smoothed the curve) you trade this for an "odd hitch" as you move between bands.  The name of the game is keeping them as even as possible so that when it jumps from one band to the next and the scaling factor changes, the incremental change in deflection is as small as possible.

Using the settings you've described, even at the 10% setting for the first band, moving the stick 10% will only register a 1% deflection - and you'll almost have to have a "big jump" somewhere where a little movement registers a large change in deflection (compared to other areas of stick travel) if you want to get to 100% by the last band.  And at 2%?  Fugetaboutit. You are essentially registering a 10% deadband around center, since 2% of 10% is only .2%.

OakRanger, pics are in this zip file http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/stickscale.zip

Max, cfg is in the same file.

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