Skyrr,
Did you even read the OP? He's looking for help in eliminating his "nose bounce" my term not his,he calls it nose wandering but it amounts to the same issue. He didnt ask how to shoot or how to improve,he is simply asking if it's possible to address the nose wandering while shooting.
While your advice may help someone with top notch equipment,not everyone has that luxury and often must make do with what they have.
You can call it a crutch,or gamey all you like,fact is some input devices may need the "crutch" regardless of what you may think!
I did read the post. In my experience, nose bounce can be attributed to one of two things:
1. A loose stick that won't return to origin
2. Poor control of the joystick
Unless the OP has a worn out or otherwise wandering joystick (as I've had happen to some of my joysticks), then nose bounce is due to control technique (and it almost always is).
Assuming that it's not a faulty or worn out stick, the correct action is to address the method of control input. Messing with dampening, input curves, etc. is simply putting a bandaid on the underlying issue. Further, by doing so, it allows a player to continue bad habits while having the game settings correct them. This creates a false sense of security in one's control. The suggestions in my post address this.
I quoted the post simply as it was easier than typing up a new reply, as it covered the issue in question (as well as addressing a few other aspects).
Also, I meant no offense to anyone who uses input post-processing (what the AH joystick curves and settings are). The fact is, however, that those who use those settings will never be able to reach the same level of control and control speed as those who use raw input. Additionally, raw input is typically processed at a 1:1 movement ratio, making flying and shooting much more intuitive once the pilot adjusts to it.
Someone using input curves in AH would have to practice over and over and over to gain the correct muscle memory to make, for example, a shot requiring them to apply 62% of their available rudder authority, simply because 62% isn't a a value you can quickly and efficiently calculate on the fly. 62% movement with scaled curves might correspond to 70% movement, 49% movement, 80%, etc. - it could be any value based on the curves. With direct input (no curves), you know immediately that a 62% rudder movement requires moving your rudder input 62%, or roughly 6/10's of its full range of motion. It allows the player to input controls quicker and more accurately the first time, especially newer players, once they adjust to the heightened sensitivity.
Again, this assumes the OP's joystick isn't the issue. If it is, then increasing the deadzone is usually the best way to solve the problem.