not impressed with flight models

[BANG48]

I'm a new subscriber to ACES HIGH. I have been trying to learn the site . Aces High has a rather high learning curve just to get airborn. I started out in the "offline" self training area. To be perfectly honest, I have not flown any Aces High airplane that is even close to being authentic in it's flight characteristics. I  have and use Microsoft flight sim, Combat flight sim 1, 2, and three. IL-2, and Battle of Britain. Maybe I got a setting on my computer wrong or something? I have a farely high speed Puter [2.8gzt] with alot of ram. So I don't think it's my hardware.
 Aces High airplanes are all "HERKY JERKY" with very unrealistic flight charicteristics. The engine Throttle is either full on or full off. No control seems to be linear in it's  use. I wouldn't mind the lack of authentic cockpit controls if the airplanes would fly accurately.
 Maybe I have some setting wrong or I'm not  doing something in the software..  But I have to tell ya... The flight models in Battle of Britain or Combat Flight sim. are worlds apart than this.
 I'm willing to hear from anyone about what I may be doing wrong in setting up Aces. The whole game seems to be difficult to get involved with.

[lagger86]

This game is fun...go away

[zorstorer]

Originally posted by BANG48
I'm a new subscriber to ACES HIGH. I have been trying to learn the site . Aces High has a rather high learning curve just to get airborn. I started out in the "offline" self training area. To be perfectly honest, I have not flown any Aces High airplane that is even close to being authentic in it's flight characteristics. I  have and use Microsoft flight sim, Combat flight sim 1, 2, and three. IL-2, and Battle of Britain. Maybe I got a setting on my computer wrong or something? I have a farely high speed Puter [2.8gzt] with alot of ram. So I don't think it's my hardware.
 Aces High airplanes are all "HERKY JERKY" with very unrealistic flight charicteristics. The engine Throttle is either full on or full off. No control seems to be linear in it's  use. I wouldn't mind the lack of authentic cockpit controls if the airplanes would fly accurately.
 Maybe I have some setting wrong or I'm not  doing something in the software..  But I have to tell ya... The flight models in Battle of Britain or Combat Flight sim. are worlds apart than this.
 I'm willing to hear from anyone about what I may be doing wrong in setting up Aces. The whole game seems to be difficult to get involved with.

Might as well put on your flame suit now.

Sounds like the herky jerky part is your controller setup.  Also one thing to think about....how many ww2 aircraft have you flown in real life?  Any?  I am pretty sure HT (the man behind this game) has had P-51 stick time.  I would email a trainer to get the most help starting out.  Schatzi should pop in here pretty quick to weigh in on this.  Plus who needs a ckicky cockpit?

[bozon]

If you are using stick throttle, then full on/off sounds like a problem with it. Try recalibrating in windows and then in game under options in the clipboard.

As for flight models, most other sims don't even come close. Try it with a properly working stick and remember that if something worked in a certain way in another flight sim it doesn't make it "correct".

[Roscoroo]

were do I get one of the on /off throttles ??? mine seams to keep gradually speeding up or down as i move it ...


now on a serious note .. u've played  il 2 and cant get the hang of AH ....  no way man ... i call Troll !!!      as for cfs 1-3 thats a teethcutting (intermediate) flight sim .


ok next ...

[BANG48]

Yer Alot of help.....   Goof ball

[Roscoroo]

here ill be nice http://www.hitechcreations.com/ahgs/jssetup.html

you need to physically set up your throttle /assign it an axis and cal .

jumpyness is because because your x /or y axis input is to abrupt and needs more deadband added .

[Schatzi]

Yep, this "jerkiness" definitly sounds like a bad set up/calibration of stick.

May i ask what brand of Joystick you use?

Before you start, make sure your Joystick is calibrated well in Windows. This article with instructions is from our Trainer Corps homepage. Make sure you have the Throttle and rudder (as well as Roll and Pitch) assigned to the appropriate axis. If you do not know which axis is ahich, simply move it and the numbers in brackets should change. Button layout is pretty much personal preference, what you do NEED is one button you can hold at the same time you use your hatswitch set to your "look up" view - see view system link.

When it is set up correctly, Exit the setup window hitting OK and then RECALIBRATE your Joystick in game!!


If you still have trouble with too immediate input (happens if you tend to have a heavy hand on the stick), i recommend SCALING the input a bit through the individual sliders and maybe a little bit of Damping. Deadband only when your stick is spiking (ie autopilot doesnt stay on). To do that, go to Controller Setup again, select the axis (!) you want to scale and check the advanced box. After changing any scaling, you usually need to recalibrate.
Ill attach a quick rundown on stick scaling to the post.


Another thing: For more realistic flying, turn off the STALL LIMITER. It limits your wings AoA (Angle of Attack), to keep you from pulling into stall/blackout. It also severly limits your maneuverability in close knife fighting. You can find the toggle on your clipboard in OPTIONS > PREFERENCES > Flight.


The Aces High View System is also something you need to set up first: http://www.netaces.org/ahview/view.html#title
LOOSE SIGHT; LOOSE FIGHT! Knowing where everyone around you is (enemies as well as friends!), what they are doing and where they are going next is called Situational Awareness (SA) - most important factor in winning (or loosing) a fight. I would say about 80%, if not more. After all, you cannot evade (or shoot) an enemy that you dont see.

8-way hatswitch together with the aforementioned look up view give you a total of 18 directional views. I have the "no buttons touched" default position set to my forward cockpit default, adjusted only so much that i can see all necessary gauges. The "look forward" i have set so i can look over my nose (all the way up and to one side, sometimes back as well). This is useful for deflection shooting and CV landings. To look forward up, i use the look forward and the look up as combo.




Should you have any more trouble or questions, do not hesitate to come back here and ask please. Or email the Trainer Corps at Trainers @ Hitechcreations.com - we can schedule meeting in game and get you going from there. (Note that going online will trigger your two week free trial period).





Roo: Deadband doesnt help jerkyness, it only adds to the "dead center".

[Schatzi]

Joystick settings..... I know people ask again and again, what the good sticks have as settings and use them for themselves. While this gives you an idea what to do, settings depend so much on your stick brand, how worn out it is, your personal preferences.... Ill try to explain the basics of the settings to you, maybe giving you the possibility to find your own, personal "favorite stick settings".
 
First of all, youll have to set the settings sliders, as well as deadband and damping for each axis separatly. Select the axis you want to work on and then check the ADVANCED box. Make sure the advanced tab shows the axis you are adjusting in the upper left corner.
 
What you also should know about scaling: It will NOT affect your overall range of motion… it will only add time delay to the movements, smoothen them out thus. You can watch the lines in the blue box move – raw (unscaled) and scaled… 45% stick deflection will still be 45% input – but the time it takes to get there is different.

Deadband: This is the easiest of all. As little as possible - as much as neccessary. Deadband depicts the “dead area” around the center position of the stick, where movement is not recognised as input yet. If you have your Joystick spiking, if you notice autopilot being thrown off without you moving the stick, youll need to raise it.
Also, if you use a Twisty Rudder, you might want to add some dead band on that axis to avoid unintentional input in the heat of a fight.
 
Damping: This adds an overall 'sluggishness' to your JS inputs, like a small temporal delay added to the reaction to stick input. Depending, if you have a rather light hand on your stick youll probably want this to be as low as possible (I got mine all at the way down, about ½ slider width from the bottom). If you feel your input is too touchy overall, raise this slider.
Also, if you get a “don’t move your controls so rapidly” a lot: Try recalibrating your stick – if this doesn’t help, adding some damping sometimes does.
 
Now to the Individual Sliders to the right. Those "scale" your stick input. Meaning, the time delay added to the input is only on part of the motion range (in 10% of the motion range for each, since you have ten sliders). The higher the sliders are, the more immediate is the input. This makes for a very fine control, but also a skitterish one and maybe (some planes more, some less) an unstable nose (“nose bounce”). All the way down makes for a very smooth, but also sluggish response.

 
I dont know your preferences. If you prefer to have a very fine control that needs a light hand and might be a little touchy, i recommend you start out with all sliders maxed out at the top. Then adjust from there, lowering the first few in a staircase way to soften any heavy nose bounce you might encounter. For Elevator, I have the first four sliders stair-cased, starting about half an inch from top. For rudder I have the first and the last 3 slightly lowered (also staircase), since I was using a rocker rudder with a small range of motion – also added 1/2 inch of damping on that. Roll axis is all maxed out, since it doesn’t come into play with nose bounce. (ill attach screenies from my old stick setup)
 
If you dont like your controls that touchy (or if your joystick doesnt "allow" this minute input - ie you just keep stalling all over the place) I recommend you start out from a staircase (first slider 1/3 – 1/2 down).
Like AKAK shows in his stick settings http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/stickscale.zip (the zip also contains great info on gunnery and energy)
 
I hope this rather long winded explanations makes sense to you and helps you finding your own settings. Maybe you also want to check out the explanation for stick settings at netaces, heres the link: http://www.netaces.org//joystick.pdf

[Roscoroo]

Roo: Deadband doesnt help jerkyness,

i ment Dampening .. sorry was Dreaming about the centerfold in Ewe monthly ..

[Schatzi]

Originally posted by Roscoroo
.. sorry was Dreaming about the centerfold in Ewe monthly ..

*Walks away whistling "Centerfold"*

[VermGhost]

I had(still have the same experience) when I started playing regularly about 6-7 days ago.  I would go into the MA and spend about 4-5 hours just being blasted out of the sky continuously, until I went to the TA and had some instructions from the Trainers there.

Also depening on the joystick you have, making sure it is clean and if it has a spring (like the Saitek Cyborg evo I have) and plate you need to make sure its lubricated with a wax so that it doesn't stick.

In addition pretty much the only way to get better and used to the gameplay is through practice and recording your fights and then viewing them.  I have found this very useful to find out what I do right and wrong, and set up a framework so I can work on small goals to be better in the overall picture.

Hope that helps, I know it sa rookie's perspective, but listen to schatzi she's an AH savant

[The Fugitive]

Originally posted by BANG48
I'm a new subscriber to ACES HIGH. I have been trying to learn the site . Aces High has a rather high learning curve just to get airborn. I started out in the "offline" self training area. To be perfectly honest, I have not flown any Aces High airplane that is even close to being authentic in it's flight characteristics. I  have and use Microsoft flight sim, Combat flight sim 1, 2, and three. IL-2, and Battle of Britain. Maybe I got a setting on my computer wrong or something? I have a farely high speed Puter [2.8gzt] with alot of ram. So I don't think it's my hardware.
 Aces High airplanes are all "HERKY JERKY" with very unrealistic flight charicteristics. The engine Throttle is either full on or full off. No control seems to be linear in it's  use. I wouldn't mind the lack of authentic cockpit controls if the airplanes would fly accurately.
 Maybe I have some setting wrong or I'm not  doing something in the software..  But I have to tell ya... The flight models in Battle of Britain or Combat Flight sim. are worlds apart than this.
 I'm willing to hear from anyone about what I may be doing wrong in setting up Aces. The whole game seems to be difficult to get involved with.

OK, AH2 does have a pretty high learning curve, but with some time, and a little help you'll do alright.

Comparing AH2 with any other flight sim is like comparing apples and oranges. Ya there both fruit, but thats pretty much where the comparison ends. Most games a build and design by people who have never flown and are only trying to build something someone explain to them. Here HT has built both warbirds and AH, and has real time stick experiance. Coming in here bashing the game isn't a good way to start  

There are almost infinite settings for this game to make it usefull to as many people as they can. Setting things up can take hours to get it comfortable for you. Thats why its suggested that you go to the training arena where the trainers....who have not only the knowledge, but the patience can help you to get it up and running.

Flying those other games has only wetted your whistle. This game is so much more! Welcome to your new addiction

[BaldEagl]

I've got my throttle mapped to my mouse wheel.  I used to have it set for 10 clicks of the wheel full on to full off.  I've recently changed that to 20.  I'm not sure how far you can go with this but 20 clicks gives a pretty fine tune to your throttle.

[Schutt]

Also AH2 is pretty demanding to the hardware, so small ram, old or cheap graphic board and bad processor will make it stutter, to some point it is adjustable with the settings, so if you want to post what graphic board/ graphic mem/ sys mem/ processor you have skuzzy usually suggests a setting that works.