Author Topic: DR1 Roll  (Read 3341 times)

Offline Ghosth

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Re: DR1 Roll
« Reply #30 on: March 19, 2010, 08:43:37 PM »
HiTech, let me make sure I understand this.  In R/L WW1 planes, if the pilot kills the engine then they have to be somewhere around 100 mph or better to start the engine again? 
Fred

IF you go nose up until airspeed is low enough for the prop to stop, THEN you have to nose down to 100 mph to get it windmilling again.

If you just blip it for 2 seconds, prop doesn't stop, don't have to dive to spin it up as its already spinning.
Just blip it and go.

Offline Cobra516

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Re: DR1 Roll
« Reply #31 on: March 19, 2010, 11:59:26 PM »
It would help if they had added a larger vertical stabilizer / rudder to combat the massive adverse yaw created by the ailerons on those old WWI planes.  

When you deflect the aileron downward, you're increasing the angle of attack of that section of the wing, which creates lift as well as drag.  It's the drag that produces a yawing moment, which tries to pull the wing back paralell the flight path, and is the reason the nose initially yaws in the direction opposite of your roll control input - so you combat this with the application of rudder.  The more aileron deflection you have, the greater the adverse yaw.  It's more pronounced at slow speeds and high angles of attack because the vertical stabilizer loses its ability to dampen the yaw as a result of the reduced airflow over its surface. 

Also, aircraft with longer wingspans experience more severe adverse yaw because the drag force is being applied further away from the center of gravity - so it produces a greater moment of inertia - sailplanes are a good example.

BTW, I thought that many of those WWI airplanes didnt have a throttle control, it was either mags on or off?  

« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 12:10:53 AM by Cobra516 »
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Offline 321BAR

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Re: DR1 Roll
« Reply #32 on: March 20, 2010, 06:56:59 AM »
Shut your motor off, dive into a steep left turn, turn the motor back on to let the torque pull you out.  Turn your motor off for five seconds, turn it back on as you dive into a steep right turn, shut it back off to pull you back out.  You have just increased the Dr.1's roll rate by about 1/3.  This is probably why the throttle is actually on the stick; using the throttle is an integral part of controlling the Dr.1.  Turning the engine on and off is gamey.

Practice and train indeed.
ummm..... tell me this: How in God's name is turning a ROTARY engine on and off gamey? the throttle is gamey here...

Cue the modify: Mid War engines could be cut back by 25% on throttle and there was a fine adjustment lever to control fuel comsumption to the engine therefore creating a somewhat usable throttle.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2010, 07:07:10 AM by 321BAR »
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Offline Bino

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Re: DR1 Roll
« Reply #33 on: March 20, 2010, 09:55:15 AM »
I once heard Cole Palen ( http://www.oldrhinebeck.org/ ) describe a problem with overuse of the ignition cutout on a rotary:

If the ignition was turned off for too long - say, on final approach for landing - the cowling could end up filled with a cloud of unburned fuel mist.  Turning the ignition back on again could sometimes have explosively bad results.  Not all that common an accident, but it was known to happen occasionally.


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