Author Topic: Stay away from Jiffy Lube  (Read 2922 times)

Offline Birddogg

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« Reply #30 on: June 15, 2006, 02:21:06 PM »
I always ask for my old parts to be saved and left in my car after service. You can never trust mechanics.

Offline rpm

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« Reply #31 on: June 15, 2006, 02:33:03 PM »
How do you know they didn't get some busted parts out of the junkpile? Trust nobody.
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Offline mora

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« Reply #32 on: June 15, 2006, 02:35:33 PM »
:rolleyes:

Offline Birddogg

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« Reply #33 on: June 15, 2006, 03:16:36 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by rpm
How do you know they didn't get some busted parts out of the junkpile? Trust nobody.


You look. Besides, chances of them keeping  the already broken part for your praticular car/model/year are pretty slim.

Asking for parts back really comes in handy when mechanic charges you for parts that werent needed for repair.
Mechanics misdiagnose cars  all the time. Its hard to prove that you been ripped off once they ditch your old parts.
I do it, because i saved  a bunch of money that way.

Offline MrRiplEy[H]

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« Reply #34 on: June 16, 2006, 08:21:20 AM »
I've heard stories that in US it's common to put el-cheapo mineral oils to cars. Is that true? My car has a 20 000km (12500miles) service interval with no oil changes in between.
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Offline Chairboy

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« Reply #35 on: June 16, 2006, 08:29:46 AM »
You COULD go that far between changes, but something to consider: The efficacy of your oil and air filters.  Anything that gets past the air filter gets into the oil, and the oil filter is basically a sieve that lets just about anything past.

While in your oil, that dirt is an abrasive.  How black is it after 5000?  8000?  There's cumulative wear over time.
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Offline Maverick

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« Reply #36 on: June 16, 2006, 02:02:18 PM »
Depends on the area you drive in. The desert Southwest of the USA is about as dusty a place as you can find (Yakima Firing Center in Washington being as bad or worse) and the particulate counts in the air lead to earlier oil changes as the engine ingests the stuff. A non dusty environment adds less abrasives into the engine.

Don't forget the combustion by products, if you use a medium  to high sulfur fuel you get sulfur oxides in the oil. Short term driving also adds water condensation. The combination makes sufuric acid in the crankcase. Bad stuff to leave sitting in the engine, that's why it's important to drive enough to get the oil hot to burn off the water in the crakcase.
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Offline Chairboy

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« Reply #37 on: June 16, 2006, 02:17:53 PM »
Yep, good point on the byproducts.

One device that I think sounds like a good way to improve engine life (especially for engines that get a lot of abuse or run at high loads) is the Fram bypass filters.  A friend of mine swears by them.

You have the normal oil filter and everything, and the fram is a cartridge that installs elsewhere in your engine bay.  It gets oil from the oil recovery system, drips it through a super fine filter (usually a roll of toilet paper, unscented I imagine) and feeds back into the oil pan.  It's not "in-line" with the oil system, so there's no high pressure through it, but as the engine runs, all the oil eventually gets run through it and it scrubs it clean.  In each car I've seen that has these, you can check the oil any time and it was always clear, just like a new car.  

He had an interesting regime that I'm not sure I'd follow, but it was pretty fascinating.  Every 3000 miles, he'd replace the toilet paper and add a quart or so of oil (however much to replace the oil that was in the toilet paper when he took it out) and that was it.  He never bothered with anything else, and he drove like this for 150,000 miles as of the last time I talked to him.  He has great compression, his engine runs clean, and he never has any trouble with it (it's a Volkswagen pickup, I think, the water cooled one?  Haven't seen it in a couple years).

Results count, but I'd want to know more about oil chemical breakdown and whatnot before I did it, but I sure do like the idea of clean oil that doesn't abrade my engine.

I'll have to research it more by the time I'm ready to put an engine in my plane (Oh, it WILL happen, I just need to get back to work on it).
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Offline Skuzzy

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« Reply #38 on: June 16, 2006, 02:25:10 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by MrRiplEy[H]
I've heard stories that in US it's common to put el-cheapo mineral oils to cars. Is that true? My car has a 20 000km (12500miles) service interval with no oil changes in between.
I have no idea where that rumor/idea came from Ripley.  All my life around cars and I have never seen nor know anyone who would sabotage thier car with mineral oil.  Did you grow up watching the Beverly Hillbillies?  :D
« Last Edit: June 16, 2006, 02:28:20 PM by Skuzzy »
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Offline Brenjen

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« Reply #39 on: June 16, 2006, 02:37:21 PM »
I do all my own maintenance & always have. You can use some high quality synthetics & stretch your oil changes; I've heard 30,000 miles tossed around but I have never verified what oil that would be possible with & wouldn't try it on my own vehicle. I use Mobil-1 & change my oil when it gets dirty, whether that's 7 miles or 7,000.

  My odometer is for tracking mileage, not for telling me my oil is dirty. When my oil begins to lose it's clarity & gets brown it's gone.;)

Offline beet1e

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« Reply #40 on: June 16, 2006, 02:55:48 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Chairboy
You COULD go that far between changes, but something to consider: The efficacy of your oil and air filters.  Anything that gets past the air filter gets into the oil, and the oil filter is basically a sieve that lets just about anything past.

While in your oil, that dirt is an abrasive.  How black is it after 5000?  8000?  There's cumulative wear over time.
CB, I'm sure all this is taken into account by the onboard computers to be found in many modern cars. The number of engine starts, especially cold starts within a given mileage, are all taken into account, as are the driver's driving techniques - how hard the car is driven etc. I've done about 13,500 miles in my A3, and the service indicator is calling for service in 5000 miles (or 545 days - whichever comes first).

I've just added ½ a litre of oil yesterday. I've had a hard time finding it because it was Castrol SLX Long Life 2, which was a 0w-30 synthetic oil. This has now been replaced by Long Life 3, a 5w-30 synthetic oil. I bought 2 litres of it yesterday - cost me £24. :(

Offline lazs2

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« Reply #41 on: June 16, 2006, 03:13:08 PM »
beet... we have synthetic oil that is good for 15,000 mile oil changes and.... it is extremely easy to come by.

And...it is for regular engines... not diesels.    Problem is that I see that there are no oil filters that reccomend such high entervals.

lazs

Offline lukster

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« Reply #42 on: June 16, 2006, 03:57:05 PM »
There's a reason no one cheats brit car owners out of oil changes. The cars won't hold oil long enough for it to get old. :p

Offline mora

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« Reply #43 on: June 16, 2006, 03:59:49 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Brenjen
I do all my own maintenance & always have. You can use some high quality synthetics & stretch your oil changes; I've heard 30,000 miles tossed around but I have never verified what oil that would be possible with & wouldn't try it on my own vehicle. I use Mobil-1 & change my oil when it gets dirty, whether that's 7 miles or 7,000.

  My odometer is for tracking mileage, not for telling me my oil is dirty. When my oil begins to lose it's clarity & gets brown it's gone.;)

I'd be worried if my oil wouldn't get brown. It means that the oil is doing one of it's duties, binding impurities. If you want to have clear oil, then buy the cheapest brand.

Offline mora

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« Reply #44 on: June 16, 2006, 04:03:28 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by lazs2
And...it is for regular engines... not diesels.  

These days manufacturers usually recommend the same oil for gasoline and diesel models. Regular Mobil 1 and similar oils are usually good for 12,500 miles on both engine types. When going over 12,500 miles special oils are usually reguired(made to manufacturers specs, not API) Diesels tend to have a bit shorter service intervals.