Author Topic: Question for real pilots  (Read 7222 times)

Offline The Fugitive

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #105 on: May 09, 2024, 12:09:40 PM »
I went back towards old settings. I only use scaling on rudder. While it eliminated some bounce, center stick is still a PITA. It has always been with this x52 further away from center less bounce.

Part of the issue is snap to center, about ready to remove snap back to experiment. I’m not sure how much that would help since crossing center cross roads has issues. Closer to center demands a different stick handling. Its not the same as outer perimeter. Why scaling help sensitivity, but causes other issues.

That and its a short stick, requiring more limited movement than a longer stem.

All that drivel aside. I’ve heard of real pilots handling of the stick is much more lighter grip, moving much less. To me that’s the only benefit.

Mist pilots these days have almost no experience in applying ACM because dogfights no longer happen nearly as much as the past. So ACM is learned within a game. Someone who flies cargo has no experience in ACM. But they do know how to handle the stick. HOing is not ACM, its playing chicken.

Again, most my kills come in TnB as I’m far away from center.

Bounce is better, but not eliminated, yet. More likely to get at least one kill per flight, as long as I stay away from field guns. I just like flying through them to get a gun hugger. 5’ off the deck auto guns have harder time hitting you.

I think a new stick with longer stem is a better fix. I can’t extend an x52.

Better, but not great.

I use to have my stick set-up with the sliders near the top, except rudder which has both dead band (old CH pedals) and a curve. After watching films from Skyyr and others the smoothness of their controls are what I think are needed more than "quickness". Even in a turny bird you dont want to yank hard as you need to save every last bit of energy you can to keep it out of the trees. Smooth I think works better. Sure you may not get those snap shots as often but if you can maintain control at the top of a loop/zoom better than the guy your fighting you get more shots than he will..... now hitting, well thats another issue  :)

I've been look into the programs that Iron posted and havent figured them out yet but if I can smooth out my heavy handiness I think it could be for the better.

Offline AKIron

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #106 on: May 09, 2024, 12:25:15 PM »
Based on my testing of the nose bounce in AH, at least when shooting, it's not caused by recoil. It is being caused by moving the stick slightly before, during, or after pulling the trigger. That's not the same as bounce induced by a hard pull on the stick and a quick release. The nose will bounce some then due to momentum and  misalignment through the air stream.

I can help further with getting that joystick gremlin moving dead zone plug in to work if desired. Lemme know which part isn't working. Feel free to pm me. 
« Last Edit: May 09, 2024, 12:29:18 PM by AKIron »
Here we put salt on Margaritas, not sidewalks.

Offline Animl-AW

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #107 on: May 09, 2024, 12:32:27 PM »
I use to have my stick set-up with the sliders near the top, except rudder which has both dead band (old CH pedals) and a curve. After watching films from Skyyr and others the smoothness of their controls are what I think are needed more than "quickness". Even in a turny bird you dont want to yank hard as you need to save every last bit of energy you can to keep it out of the trees. Smooth I think works better. Sure you may not get those snap shots as often but if you can maintain control at the top of a loop/zoom better than the guy your fighting you get more shots than he will..... now hitting, well thats another issue  :)

I've been look into the programs that Iron posted and havent figured them out yet but if I can smooth out my heavy handiness I think it could be for the better.

Yep.
I can eliminate SOME bounce in different ways, but also causes different negative reactions. Stick handling is the key. A longer stem would make that 3x easier. Ya still have to learn the honey spot for leading shots for an actual strike. Right now a 1/4” movement at center starts bounce. With an extension that would be more like 1”+.

I have to build that soft touch muscle memory. If I had more time to fly I’d prolly already be there. 5-8 hrs per week is a slow crawl. <shrug>

Offline Animl-AW

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #108 on: May 09, 2024, 12:34:05 PM »
Based on my testing of the nose bounce in AH, at least when shooting, it's not caused by recoil. It is being caused by moving the stick slightly before, during, or after pulling the trigger. That's not the same as bounce induced by a hard pull on the stick and a quick release. The nose will bounce some then due to momentum and  misalignment through the air stream.

I can help further with getting that joystick gremlin moving dead zone plug in to work if desired. Lemme know which part isn't working. Feel free to pm me.

This is why zi mived trigger to throttle. I’m hitting more often after the move.

Offline AKIron

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #109 on: May 09, 2024, 12:38:24 PM »
There can be much excitement when lining up that killing shot, especially after some hard acm. A certain amount of detachment can help steady the stick.

Zen and the art of the kill.
Here we put salt on Margaritas, not sidewalks.

Offline Animl-AW

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #110 on: May 09, 2024, 12:52:33 PM »
There can be much excitement when lining up that killing shot, especially after some hard acm. A certain amount of detachment can help steady the stick.

Zen and the art of the kill.

Exactly. Just like firing a handgun or rifle. Kill it at the range, blow it when the excitement starts. Why breathing and heart rate plays a huge role, detachment. I’m a former avid deer hunter. I was all about long range one-shot one-kill. Same with my Python .357 mag, only have 6 rounds, the first better be on the mark. Ya only need 1 good round from a .357 mag.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2024, 12:54:20 PM by Animl-AW »

Offline Tumor

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #111 on: May 09, 2024, 03:35:50 PM »
Exactly. Just like firing a handgun or rifle. Kill it at the range, blow it when the excitement starts. Why breathing and heart rate plays a huge role, detachment. I’m a former avid deer hunter. I was all about long range one-shot one-kill. Same with my Python .357 mag, only have 6 rounds, the first better be on the mark. Ya only need 1 good round from a .357 mag.

Watched a Yuboob vid the other day featuring and old guy (who's still a) Guide in Alaska... I almost fell outta my chair when he said not that long ago, his go-to weapon for Brown Bear protection was a .357... (had to do with a story how he dropped one with a 9mm using ammo from Buffalo Bore)
"Dogfighting is useless"  :Erich Hartmann

Offline Animl-AW

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #112 on: May 09, 2024, 04:07:38 PM »
Watched a Yuboob vid the other day featuring and old guy (who's still a) Guide in Alaska... I almost fell outta my chair when he said not that long ago, his go-to weapon for Brown Bear protection was a .357... (had to do with a story how he dropped one with a 9mm using ammo from Buffalo Bore)

Well, if you know the Python it's a top shelf .357, insanely accurate, balance is superb, nose kick is heavy. Bought mine in 86 for $700, it's in demand at $3k-34k these days, had an offer of 4k. It's hard to find an original like mine. The new ones are just not the same monkey, several changes not to the positive. My all time fav handgun,. It's never going to jam. It will certainly kill a bear. Loud as hell.

Offline nopoop

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #113 on: May 09, 2024, 04:16:15 PM »
Nah. This won't miss.

nopoop

It's ALL about the fight..

Offline knorB

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Re: Question for real pilots
« Reply #114 on: May 09, 2024, 05:41:25 PM »
Watched a Yuboob vid the other day featuring and old guy (who's still a) Guide in Alaska... I almost fell outta my chair when he said not that long ago, his go-to weapon for Brown Bear protection was a .357... (had to do with a story how he dropped one with a 9mm using ammo from Buffalo Bore)
If it's Brown Bear and pistols... see bottom of the pic.